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GREAT CABLE INCLINE ON MOUNT LOWE RAILROAD, CALIFORNIA. 

(See page 207.) 



NEW GUIDE 



TO THE 



PACIFIC COAST 



Santa Fe Route. 



CALIFORNIA, 

ARIZONA, NEW MEXICO, COLORADO, KANSAS, 
MISSOURI, IOWA, AND ILLINOIS. 



/ 



By C. a. HIGGINS. 






/f^ 14 1894 



CHICAGO AND NEW YORK: 



^^ v.Ki;i:NV.^ 



RAND, McNALLY & COMPANY. 3*S'/^ 
1894. 






Copyright, 1894, by Rand, McNally & Co. 



CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

Preface, ------ 7 

Illinois, -_.--. 10 

Iowa, .-.-.- 14 

Missouri, - - - - - - 14 

Kansas, - - - - - - 18 

Colorado, .._--- 38 

New Mexico, ----- 64 

Arizona, ------ 108 

California, . . . - - 158 

Vocabulary, ------ 262 



PREFACE. 




HIS Guidebook embraces a journey from Chi- 
cago to the Pacific Coast by way of the 
Santa Fe Route, and covers a similar jour- 
ney from St. Louis as well, since after the 
first few hundred miles, namely, beyond 
Burrton, Kan., the route is the same from 
both cities. It aims to furnish general information regard- 
ing the regions traversed, and specific data concerning 
particular points of interest by the way. Doubtless more 
has been included than would suffice to answer the general 
inquiries of any one tourist, but he must offer much who 
would bring something to many, and what one reader may 
consider good matter to skip another may regard as per- 
tinent and profitable. To facilitate both, so far as practi- 
cable, the text has been systematically arranged under 
definitive headings. Extended description of special 
objects of interest has been restricted to such as can not 
be seen, or can not be appreciated, except by stopping 
over and making a side-excursion away from the thor- 
oughfare. 

The United States Census for 1890 is authority for the 
population of towns and cities given herein, unless other- 
wise stated. Since the date of that census, it is hardly 
necessary to add, the number of inhabitants of many of 
those communities has materially increased. 

The attention of the reader is invited to the index 
of this volume, and for the pronunciation and significa- 
tion of unfamiliar names he is referred to the appended 
vocabulary. 

(7) 




CHICAGO TO KANSAS CITY. 

ILLINOIS, IOWA, AND MISSOURI. 

|T IS customary for through trains from 
Chicago to the Pacific Coast to leave that 
city at night. Description of a State 
which the traveler is assumed to be in 
the act of quitting, or of its immediate 
neighbor on the west, which will have 
been crossed and left far behind before the dawn of 
another day, should be confined to narrow limits, and in 
the nature of the case a brief and somewhat general 
mention will suffice for the features of the entire region 
east of Kansas ; for while Illinois, Iowa, and Missouri are 
indeed western, the West lies farther on, and the active 
curiosity of the tourist is usually concentrated upon that 
section of the country which is beyond the Missouri 
River. Although there still is room and to spare in these 
three States, they no longer wear a marked romantic 
aspect to the traveler. The Indian has long since aban- 
doned their plains and river-valleys, the large game has 
fled, and the era of the pioneer has given place to that of 
general agriculture, manufacture, and trade. Have many 
years gone by since a song was current glorifying a 
dimly apprehended region somewhere far toward the 
sunset, "Where the mighty Missouri rolls down to the 
sea" ? Did we not sing that as school-children, we whose 
heads are not yet quite gray, not yet conspicuously 
unthatched ; picturing an adventurous land at the end of 

(9) 



10 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



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the westernmost ray of the Star 
of Empire, beyond which lay the 
mystery of a vast untrodden wild ? 
The Missouri ! If we see it at all 
we must be up betimes to-morrow, 
for its channel lies almost at the 
threshold of our journey ; it is 
in the very heart of the United 
States. And across and beyond 
it our way lies on and on, over 
still wider prairies, over mountain 
passes, over deserts in the sky, 
and down again to where the blue 
waves of the Pacific beat upon 
sunny sands, where the violet and 
poppy smother the hillsides, and 
the olive and fig and orange grow. 
In the prospect of such an array 
of varied and interesting scenes 
as marks a journey to the Pacific 
Coast, therefore, only an eniimera- 
tion of a few landmarks and mile- 
posts will be attempted until, the 
first night having passed, there is 
something to see and inquire 
about. 

ILLINOIS. 

Chicago. — Los Angeles, 2,265 miles; 
San Diego, 2,348 miles; San Francisco 
(via Albuquerque), 2,577 miles. Alti- 
tude, 579 feet above sea level. Popula- 
tion (in the year 1891), 1,438,010. Termi- 
nus of the following railroads: Atchison, 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 11 

Topeka & SantaF e; Baltimore & Ohio; Chicago & Erie; Chicago & 
Alton; Chicago & Eastern Illinois; Chicago & Grand Trunk ; Chicago 
& Northern Pacific; Chicago & North-Western; Chicago, Burlington 
& Quincy; Cleveland, Cincinnati, Chicago & St. Louis; Chicago, 
Milwaukee & St. Paul; Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific; Chicago & 
West Michigan ; Chicago Great Western ; Illinois Central; Lake Shore 
& Michigan Southern; Louisville, New Albany & Chicago; Michigan 
Central; Milwaukee, Lake Shore & Western; New York, Lake Erie 
& Western; Northern Pacific; Pennsylvania lines (Pan-handle, and 
Pittsburg, Fort Wayne & Chicago); Wabash, and the Wisconsin Cen- 
tral Line. 

The terminal passenger station of the Santa Fe Route 
in Chicago is situated at the intersection of Dearborn and 
Polk streets, and is familiarly known both as Dearborn 
Station and as Polk Street Station. Here also the trains 
of the Chicago & Grand Trunk Railway; the Chicago & 
Erie Railroad; the Chicago & Eastern Illinois Railroad; 
the Chicago & Western Indiana Railroad; the Louisville, 
New Albany & Chicago Railway (Monon Route); and the 
Wabash Railroad, arrive and depart. 

The many other depots that furnish terminal facilities 
are spacious and substantial. The 1,400 hotels in the city 
easily accommodate 200,000 people, their charges varied 
to suit every class of traveler. 

The first building on the present site of Chicago was 
erected in the year 1779 by a negro named Jean Baptiste 
Point de Saible. The first white inhabitant was John 
Kinzie, an Indian trader, who became possessor of this 
man's hut in 1804. In the year 1825 Chicago was a ham- 
let, consisting of fourteen cabins. It \vas incorporated as 
a town in 1833, with a population of 150. The first paper 
was issued November 26, 1833. In 1837 the population 
had increased to 4,170. The year previous the first rail- 
road — the Galena & Chicago Union — entered the town. 
From that time the city rapidly grew until the fire of 



12 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

187 1 swept away the greater part, and destroyed property 
valued at $196,000,000. It soon started afresh on its 
course of progress, which has gone on uninterruptedly 
until the present day, except for the check caused by the 
second fire in 1874. Perhaps the feature that most strikes 
the visitor is the great number of immense and lofty busi- 
ness blocks. One of them, the Masonic Temple, twenty- 
one stories high, is one of the largest office buildings in 
the world. It stands at the corner of State and Randolph 
streets. The city covers an area of 184 square miles, 
1,793 acres of which are public park. The assessment 
for tax purposes is $250,000,000, which is about one-fifth 
of the real value. It will surprise many to know that 
Chicago is the greatest port in America. In the year 
1 89 1 vessels to the number of 9,803 entered the harbor, 
making it the third port, if not the second, in the world — 
Liverpool, and possibly London, taking precedence of it. 

After quitting the environs of the World's Fair city 
several small towns are passed before any point of par- 
ticular prominence is reached. 

Intermediate Stations : McCook, Gary, Willow 
Springs, Byrneville, Tedens, Lemont, Romeo, Lockport. 

Joliet. — Chicago, 41 miles; Los Angeles, 2,224 miles; San 
Diego, 2,307 miles; San Francisco, 2,536 miles. Altitude, 553 feet. 
Population, 23,264. Junction with Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific 
Railway, Chicago & Alton Railroad, and Elgin, Joliet & Eastern 
Railway (Belt Line). 

A very important manufacturing city on the Desplaines 
River. The State penitentiary stands on the left of the 
railroad track, and on the right are the rolling mills of 
the Illinois Steel Company and the wire works of the 
Consolidated Steel & Wire Company. 

Intermediate Stations: Patterson, Millsdale, Drum- 
mond, Blodgett, Knappa (at the crossing of the Kanka- 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 13 

kee River), Lorenzo, Coal City, Mazon, Verona, Kinsman, 
Ransom, Kernan. 

Streator. — Chicago, 94 miles; Los Angeles, 2,171 miles; San 
Diego, 2,254 miles; San Francisco, 2,483 miles. Altitude, 640 feet. 
Population, 14,414. Junction with the Wabash Railroad, Chicago & 
Alton Railroad, and Chicago, Burlington & Quincy Railroad. 

A manufacturing and coal-mining city situated on the 
Vermilion River. 

Intermediate Station : Reading. 

Ancona. — Chicago, 100 miles; Los Angeles, 2,165 miles; San 
Diego, 2,248 miles; San Francisco, 2,477 miles. Altitude, 645 feet. 

Diverging point of the line of the Santa F^ Route to 
Pekin, 111., and to Peoria by a connection with the Toledo, 
Peoria & Western Railway at Eureka. 

Intermediate Stations : Leeds, Caton, Toluca, La 
Rose, Wilburn. 

Cliillicotlie. — Chicago, 134 miles; Los Angeles, 2,131 miles; 
San Diego, 2,214 miles; San Francisco, 2,443 miles. Altitude, 530 
feet. Population, 1,632. Junction with Chicago, Rock Island & 
Pacific Railway. 

Located on the Illinois River. A heavy grain-shipping 
point, and headquarters of the Chicago-Kansas City Di- 
vision of the Santa Fe Route. 

Intermediate Stations: Edelstein, Princeville, Mon- 
ica, Laura, Williamsfield, Dahinda, Appleton, Knox. 

Oalesburg". — Chicago, 182 miles; Los Angeles, 2,083 miles; 
San Diego, 2,166 miles; San Francisco, 2,395 miles. Altitude, 771 
feet. Population, 15,264. Junction with Chicago, Burlington & 
Quincy Railroad, and the Fulton County Narrow Gauge Railway. 

A manufacturing city. Also a center of importation of 
European draft horses. 

Intermediate Stations : Surrey, Cameron, Nemo, 



14 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

Ormonde, Ponemah, Smithshire, Media, Stronghurst, De- 
corra, Lomax, Dallas, Pontoosuc. 

Niota. — Chicago, 235 miles. Altitude, 539 feet. 

On the banks of the Mississippi River. 

Mississippi River Bridge. — Chicago, 236 miles. 3,240 feet 
long, and 32 feet above low-water mark. 

IOWA. 

Ft. Madison. — Chicago, 237 miles; Los Angeles, 2,028 miles; 
San Diego, 2,111 miles; San Francisco, 2,340 miles. Altitude, 537 
feet. Population, 7,901. Junction with Chicago, Burlington & 
Quincy Railroad and Chicago, Ft. Madison & Des Moines Railway. 

An important Mississippi River port. 

From Ft. Madison the route crosses the southeastern 
corner of the State of Iowa from the Mississippi River to 
the Des Moines River, a distance of twenty miles. 

Intermediate Stations: Ft. Madison Shops, Macuta, 
New Boston, Argyle. 

MISSOURI. 

Intermediate Stations: Dumas, Revere. 

Medill.— Chicago, 268 miles. Altitude, 719 feet. Junction with 
the Keokuk & Western Railroad, one mile east of Medill Station. 

Intermediate Stations: Cama, Wyaconda, Gorin, 
Rutledge, Baring, Kenwood. 

Hurdland. — Chicago, 315 miles. Altitude, 842 feet. Popula- 
tion, 248. Junction with the Quincy, Omaha & Kansas City Railway. 

Intermediate Station: Gibbs. 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. l5 

La Plata. — Chicago, 317 miles. Altitude, 929 feet. Popula- 
tion, 1,169. Junction with the Wabash Railroad. 

Intermediate Stations: Oliver, Elmer, Ethel, Hart. 

Bucklin. — Chicago, 346 miles. Altitude, 932 feet. Population, 
711. Junction with Hannibal & St. Joseph Railroad. 

Marceliue. — Chicago, 352 miles; Los Angeles, 1,913 miles; 
San Diego, 1,996 miles; San Francisco, 2,225 miles. Altitude, 873 
feet. Population, 1,977. Junction with Chicago, Burlington & 
Kansas City Railway. 

Intermediate Stations: Rothville, Mendon, Dean 
Lake, Bosworth, Newcomb, Carrollton, Palemon, Nor- 
borne, Nimrod, Hardin. 

Lexington Junction. — Chicago, 416 miles; Los Angeles, 
1,849 miles; San Diego, 1,932 miles; San Francisco, 2,161 miles. 
Altitude, 709 feet. Junction with Wabash Railroad. Diverging 
point of the line of the Santa Fe Route to St. Joseph, Mo., and 
Atchison, Kan. 

Intermediate Stations: Camden, Floyd. 

Missouri River Bridge.— Chicago, 429 miles. 7,552 feet 
long, including approaches, and 92 feet above low-water mark. 

Intermediate Stations: Sibley, Atherton, Courtney, 
Wayne, vSheffield, Fifteenth Street (Kansas City), Grand 
Avenue (Kansas City). 

Kansas City (Union Depot). — Chicago, 458 miles; Los Angeles, 
1,807 miles; San Diego, 1,890 miles; San Francisco, 2,119 miles. 
Altitude, 765 feet. Population, 171,032. Junction with Chicago, 
Rock Island & Pacific Railway; Hannibal & St. Joseph Railroad; 
Burlington & Missouri River Railroad; Kansas City, St. Joseph & 
Council Bluffs Railroad; Wabash, St. Louis & Pacific Railway; 
Chicago & Alton Railroad; Missouri Pacific Railway; Kansas City, 
Fort Scott & Memphis Railroad; Union Pacific Railway; Chicago, 
Milwaukee & St. Paul Railway; Chicago Great Western Railway; 
Kansas City, Wyandotte & North- Western Railroad; Kansas City, 
Pittsburg & Gulf Railroad; Kansas City, Osceola & Southern Rail- 
way. 



16 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 




NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 17 

The city is located on the south bank of the Missouri 
River. It is a city of hills and bluffs, not particularly 
intelligible nor attractive in the few inadequate glimpses 
possible from the train; but that is commonly true of 
cities. The residence portion, as well as most of the busi- 
ness district except that which naturally clusters closely 
around railroad terminals, lies above and on the right. 
The steeply inclined bridge over the track, just beyond 
the Union Depot, over which cable cars are passing, leads 
to the main part of the city. 

It was at first a landing-place for river steamboats, and 
was known as Westport Landing. The first stock of 
goods was thus landed in 1834. In the course of the next 
half a dozen years a few frame houses were erected, but 
so late as 1853 the inhabitants numbered only 478. The 
arbitrary laws of commerce, however, had decreed that at 
this point a great city should arise, and in 1870 the popu- 
lation had increased to 32,286. In 1885, 128,474 people 
dwelt here, and the commercial activity of the city had 
become something extraordinary. It offers to the traveler 
from older communities a striking example of the rapidity 
of Western progress. It is second only to Chicago in 
pork-packing and beef-canning and in the number of 
live-stock handled in its stock-yards. Ore-smelting and 
numerous manufactures are also carried on upon a large 
scale. It is a transcontinental gateway, and the natural 
trade center for much of Missouri, Kansas, Arkansas, 
Texas, and Colorado, and for Oklahoma, New Mexico, and 
Arizona; the distribution of its wares and the absorption 
of much of the products of the regions named being 
rendered easy by water-carriage and by the many rail- 
roads that center here. 

It is really composed of two cities — Kansas City, Mo., 

and Kansas City, Kan., the pox^ulation of each being, 

respectively, 132,716 and 38,316. 
2 



18 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



KANSAS. 

Historical. — The name is Indian, and was borne 
by the particular people whom the first settlers of Kansas 
found in possession of the country. The French fur trad- 
ers — voyageurs — had stations here nearly a century and a 
half before it was actually settled, and to their pronunci- 
ation of the word Kansas has been ascribed the origin of 
the word Kaw, long applied both to that particular tribe 
of Indians and to the river upon whose banks they dwelt. 
Coronado indelibly stamped his name as discoverer upon 
a very large part of the West. His extraordinary expedi- 
tion from Mexico in 1540 extended as far as the northern 
boundary of this State, which he appears to have trav- 
ersed in a northeasterly direction. His advent into this 
particular region was barren of result. He came, saw, 
and went away. In 17 19 a second Spanish invasion came 
from New Mexico to occupy the country in advance of the 
French, who were actively exploring the Missouri River, 
but the Spaniards, with the exception of a priest, were 
massacred by the Indians. A large tract of central North 
America thereupon fell to France. It stretched from the 
Gulf of Mexico north to British America, and from the 
Mississippi River west to a line which serves now for the 
eastern boundary of Texas, thence along the north bank 
of the Arkansas River to central Colorado, and from there 
irregularly northwest to a point near the upper western 
corner of Montan?. This was the province of Louisiana, 
whose entire purchase by the United States was com- 
pleted by the treaty of April 30, 181 9. The little south- 
western corner of Kansas below the Arkansas River was 
subsequently acquired from Mexico, in the final solution 
of the Texas struggle. In 1823 a trading route was estab. 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 19 

lished between Booneville (now Franklin), on the Missouri 
River, and Santa Fe, in New Mexico. Nine years after- 
ward Independence, near Kansas City, became the point 
of outfitting and departure for western freighters. The 
story of the Santa Fe Trail is one of the most romantic 
and tragic chapters in the history of the West. The In- 
dians promised it freedom from molestation, in a council 
meeting with United States Commissioners, but the old 
trail marks a line of blood across many hundred miles of 
plain. Ambuscade and butchery, with all the fearful 
details of savage warfare, were a daily occurrence. Fort 
Leavenworth was established to protect the traders, and 
escorts of mounted soldiers accompanied the wagon 
trains. This trade with Santa F6 and the Southwest 
became in time so great as to employ thousands of men 
and wagons. The trail led along the Arkansas River, over 
the Raton Pass from Colorado to New Mexico, thence 
through Wagon Mound and Las Vegas to the New Mexi- 
can capital. The course of the Santa Fe Route is almost 
identical with the old trail throughout. The military post 
at Fort Leavenworth was established in 1827, and there, in 
1850, the first real settlement of Kansas began. In ten 
years Kansas numbered a hundred thousand inhabitants, 
and in 1861 was admitted to the Union. 

The greater part of Kansas was originally included in 
the extensive Territory of Missouri, that portion of the 
Louisiana province purchased from the French in 1803. 
A portion of that Territory became the State of Missouri 
in 182 1, after long opposition on the part of the anti- 
slavery States, by virtue of the Missouri Compromise, a 
compact which resulted in the passage of an act forever 
forbidding slavery in all that part of the Louisiana pur- 
chase north of 36^ 30', except within the comparatively 
small bounds of the newly admitted State of Missouri. In 



20 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

1854 that act was repealed, and each new commonwealth 
arising- in the formerly exempted Territory was left free to 
settle the question for itself. In Kansas the struggle of the 
two great sectional ideas for supremacy was a bitter con- 
tention, and here the armies of North and South first 
encountered. John Brown first became famous in connec- 
tion with this Kansas war, and the State won the sobriquet 
of "Bleeding Kansas." Property was destroyed and 
many lives were lost, until in 1859 the question at stake 
was settled by the adoption of a constitution forbidding 
slavery. In the immediately ensuing War of the Rebell- 
ion the State suffered further, and not until the close of 
ten years' strife did these men who had so actively con- 
tended for opposing principles find uninterrupted oppor- 
tunity to develop the resources of the State. The building 
of railroads was wisely encouraged by immense grants of 
land in alternate parcels contiguous to several proposed 
lines, conditioned upon actual construction within a speci- 
fied period. Eastern capital promptly seized the proffered 
opportunity, the sale and settlement of the acquired lands 
was undertaken by the recipient corporations through 
numerous agencies both at home and abroad, and in con- 
sequence immigrants poured into the State by thousands, 
from the Middle and Eastern States and from foreign 
countries. In 1870 the population had increased to 364,- 
369. In 1880 it was 996,096. The United States census 
of 1890 gives 1,427,096. 

Kansas boasts a smaller percentage of illiteracy and 
crime than any other community of which such statistics 
are kept. There are 3,800 churches and 9,000 schools 
within its borders. 

Descriptive. — Kansas comprises an area of 82,080 
square miles in the center of the Union. In length it is 
408 miles, and in breadth 208 miles, having the form of a 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



21 



parallelogram, symmetrical in outline, save where the 
Missouri River cuts a slice from the northeastern corner. 




THE KAW VALLEY PEOPLE OF 1 85 5. 



It is an inclined plane, with undulating surface, rising 
easily from an altitude of about 750 feet upon the east to 



22 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

nearly 3,500 feet at the western bound. Although a 
prairie country, it is neither fiat nor monotonous, but rolls 
in gentle billows, forming a pleasing pastoral landscape 
that becomes exceedingl}^ beautiful in early summer. It 
has the breadth of ocean to the eye, nevertheless, and a 
charm that outlasts the novelty of first acquaintance. It 
can not boast a mountain, nor much timber, save that 
which has been planted since its settlement. It is car- 
peted with nutritious grasses, and the intervals are green 
with orchards, gardens, and growing grain. 

Progressing westward the amount of rainfall and the 
number of small streams decrease, until in the extreme 
western counties a condition of aridity is reached that, 
over large areas, thus far has proved hostile to agricult- 
ure, except in the moister valleys, or where the waters of 
the Arkansas can be diverted by means of irrigating 
ditches, although in many localities artesian wells provide 
a good supply of water. Many prairie-dog towns will be 
seen by the traveler in that region. 

The rock formations that underlie Kansas have yielded 
great numbers of fossils of the most uncouth and gigantic 
prehistoric animals, inany speciinens of which are exhibited 
in the National Museum at Washington. When Kansas 
was the shore of a vast sea it was inhabited by monsters 
whose existence would be scouted did not the imperishable 
rock preserve their skeletons. 

It is a land of pretty towns, developing with astonishing 
rapidity year by year. In each of them the church and 
school-house are prominent objects, and the public saloon 
is conspicuous by utter absence. These energetic old fel- 
lows, who settled the question of slavery for themselves 
before the Civil War began, established prohibition in 
Kansas long before they took up the Farmers' Alliance or 
formed the Populist party. They have a remarkable fac- 
ulty of putting theories into practice. 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 23 

Climate. — The average annual rainfall varies greatly, 
according to locality. The record at Fort Leavenworth 
for fifty-seven years gives a yearly average of thirty-three 
inches; twenty-three years at Lawrence averaged thirty- 
four inches; twelve years at Topeka, thirty-two inches; 
thirty-five years at Manhattan and Fort Riley, thirty 
inches; fourteen years at Dodge City, twenty-one inches; 
five years at Fort Wallace, thirteen inches. The rain 
comes principally in the early summer months, and in 
some years, following a period of extreme dryness in July 
or August, excessive heat is experienced, accompanied by 
hot winds, sometimes of a high velocity. These hot winds 
were formerly believed to originate on the " staked 
plains " of Texas and New Mexico, as they most com- 
monly came from the southwest, but are now known to 
be caused, as in Nebraska and the Dakotas, by the pas- 
sage of ordinary winds over the heated surface of the dry, 
unbroken plains of the State. The increasing area of cul- 
tivation has already very greatly reduced the frequency 
and severity of the hot winds, which acquired an unpleas- 
ant notoriety in the days of the buffalo and the caravan. 

The mean annual temperature varies from 52° to ^-j", 
according to locality, that of the extreme western portion 
being a few degrees lower than that of the eastern, by 
reason of a higher altitude. The climate of Kansas is 
heathful, and commonly very agreeable. Even when in 
midsummer the sun becomes torrid and the air oppressive 
through the day, with nightfall a delicious breeze blows 
over the prairie, and after the hottest day the Kansan 
sleeps in comfort. The winters are commonly mild. For 
persons who have weak lungs it is a desirable dwell- 
ing place, and several points in the western part, where 
the altitude is less pronounced than in Colorado or 
northern New Mexico, are utilized by sensitive patients 



24 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST, 

journeying to those regions for recuperation as temporary 
stopping places where to accomplish a gradual adjustment 
to greater elevations and more rarefied air. 

Industrial. — Kansas is most familiarly known to the 
world as an agricultural and grazing State. In the ten 
years from 1882 to 1891, inclusive, it produced the astonish- 
ing total of 1,561,972,631 bushels of corn and 284,085,374 
bushels of wheat. The average yield per acre for the 
entire period of ten years was 27.88 bushels of corn and 
15.14 bushels of wheat, the highest average for any single 
year being 40.1 for the former and 22.6 for the latter. In 
1892 the yield of corn was 138,658,62 1 bushels, and of wheat 
74,538,906 bushels. The State includes many other impor- 
tant agricultural products, a few items in addition to the 
two great cereals being as follows: Oats, 43,722,484 bushels; 
barley, 3,842,954 bushels; rye, 4,042,613 bushels; buck- 
wheat, 62,808 bushels; flax, 1,245,555 bushels; hemp, 32,900 
pounds; cotton, 145,300 pounds; potatoes, 4,557,504 bushels; 
tobacco, 222,600 pounds; castor beans, 81,987 bushels; 
broomcorn, 34,016,950 pounds; and 800,000 pounds of 
sugar was manufactured from sorghum. Vast quanti- 
ties of apples, pears, peaches, cherries, and plums are annu- 
ally raised, and there are numerous vineyards. Of live- 
stock there are in round numbers 805,000 horses, 79,000 
mules and asses, 631,000 milch cows, 240,000 sheep, 1,605,- 
000 swine, and 1,708,000 other cattle. 

A large aggregate capital is invested in manufactures, 
chiefly flour, meats, lard, sugar, and salt. 

Mines of coal and lead and stone-quarries are worked 
extensively. 

principal points of interest. 

Intermediate Stations: Argentine, Turner, Morris, 
Holliday, Choteau, Wilder, Cedar Junction, De Soto^ 
Weaver, Eudora 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



25 



Lawrence.— Chicago, 499 miles; Los Angeles, 1,766 miles; San 
Diego, 1,849 miles; San Francisco, 2,078 miles. Junction with Union 




Pacific Railway, and Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe lines from southern 
points in Eastern Kansas. Altitude, 837 feet. Population, 9,997- 

A city of New England appearance and character, sit- 
uated on the Kansas River. Site of the Haskell Indian 



26 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

School, which is comprised in fifteen buildings, and of the 
State University, whose seven structures crown Mount 
Oread, west of the city, and are visible at a distance of 
many miles. The dam across the river furnishes excellent 
water power for a number of manufactories — of flour, 
paper, wire, and nails, whose yearly product reaches an 
aggregate value of nearly a million and a half dollars. 
Lawrence was settled in 1854, and was the center and cap- 
ital of the Free State side of the Kansas struggle, and the 
headquarters of John Brown during that trying period. It 
was burned on August 21, 1863, by the rebel guerrilla, 
Quantrell, who, with three or four hundred followers, sur- 
prised the town at daybreak. In the space of four hours, 
upon that occasion, 143 men were shot dead in the streets 
and some thirty desperately wounded, and the value of 
the property pillaged or sacrificed to the torch was in the 
neighborhood of $2,000,000. 

Intermediate Station: Lake View. 

Liecoiiipton. — Chicago, 509 miles; Los Angeles, 1,756 miles; 
San Diego, 1,839 miles; San Francisco, 2,068 miles. Altitude, 861 
feet. Population, 450. 

Named after Lecompte, a leader of the Pro-Slavery 
party. This was the ancient capital under that organiza- 
tion. The " Lecompton Constitution," intended for a Pro- 
Slavery Kansas, was signed here. The foundations of the 
present Lane University were originally laid for the pro- 
jected capitol of a slave State. Many men of the opposi- 
tion party were forcibly incarcerated for their principles 
in the Lecompton jail, whose ruins are still visible. The 
old legislative hall also still exists. The interest of 
Lecompton is reminiscent, and attaches to the early his- 
tory of Kansas, when strife was violent between the two 
political parties. 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



27 



Intermediate Stations: Glendale, Grover, Spencer, 
Tecumseh. 

Topeka. — Chicago, 525 miles; Los Angeles, 1,740 miles; San 
Diego, 1,823 miles; San Francisco, 2,052 miles. Dining station. Junc- 
tion with Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific Railway; Union Pacific 
Railway; Missouri, Kansas & Texas Railway; and Atchison, Topeka 
& Santa Fe lines to Leavenworth and Atchison, Kan., and St. Joseph, 
Mo. Altitude, 901 feet. Population, 31,007. 




KANSAS state CAPITOL. 

Very little that is characteristic of the capital of Kan- 
sas can be seen from the railroad station. It is a most 
attractive city, with broad business streets and sightly 
residence districts profusely shaded with ornamental trees. 
Situated on the Kansas River, its chief industries are flour- 
milling, manufacturing, and labor in connection with rail- 
road service. The general offices and shops of the Atchi- 



28 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

son, Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad are located here, over 
2,700 men being" employed in the city by that company, 
and upward of $150,000 being disbursed monthly in wages. 
There are six flour mills, with an aggregate output of 
2,850 barrels per day, and seven grain elevators, with a 
total capacity of 835,000 bushels, besides stock-yards and 
packing houses. 

The capitol is imposing, and in it is stored the magnifi- 
cent ornithological collection of the late Prof. N. S. Goss. 
Topeka contains the State, city, Washburn, and Bethany 
libraries, aggregating 100,000 volumes, the State Insane 
Asylum and State Reform School, Washburn and Bethany 
colleges, and twenty-three public schools. It possesses 
the largest system of electric street-car lines in the 
country. 

West of Topeka are extensively-worked coal mines, 
notably those of Osage City, twenty-nine miles distant. 
Some 750 miners are there employed, and the yearly out- 
put is 145,000 tons. 

Intermediate Stations: Pauline, Wakarusa, Carbon- 
dale, Scranton, Burlingame, Peterton, Osage City, Barclay, 
Reading, Lang, Emporia Junction. 

Emporia.^ Chicago, 586 miles; Los Angeles, 1,679 miles; San 
Diego, 1,762 miles; San Francisco, 1,991 miles. Junction with Atchi- 
son, Topeka & Santa Fe branch line to Southern Kansas points. 
Emporia Junction, one mile east, is point of crossing of Missouri, 
Kansas & Texas Railway, and junction for through fast freight line of 
the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad from Kansas City, by way 
of Olathe, Ottawa, and Quenemo. Altitude, 1,149 f^^t. Population, 
7,551- 

Placed at the joining of Cottonwood and Neosho val- 
leys, Emporia is the center of an exceedingly rich agri- 
cultural region. The State Normal School is visible upon 
the main street from the train in passing. It has about 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 29 

i,2oo students. There is also a Presbyterian college. 
Twenty miles beyond, at Strong City, is the point of 
departure of Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe trains north- 
westward to Abilene, vSalina, Minneapolis, and Concordia, 
Kan., and Superior, Neb. Emporia enjoys the reputation 
of being the wealthiest city in Kansas per capita. 

Intermediate Stations: vSterry, Plymouth, Bennett, 
Saffordville, Ellinor, Strong City, Evans, Elmdale, Clem- 
ents, Cedar Grove. 

Florence. — Chicago, 631 miles; Los Angeles, 1,634 miles; San 
Diego, 1,717 miles; San Francisco, 1,946 miles. Dining station. 
Junction with proprietary lines southward through El Dorado, 
Augusta, and Winfield, and westward through Marion, McPherson, 
and Lyons to Ellinwood. Altitude, 1,277 feet. Population, 1,229. 

Intermediate Stations: Horners, Peabody, Braddock, 
Doyle, Walton. 

Newton. — Chicago, 659 miles; Los Angeles, 1,606 miles; San 
Diego, 1,689 miles; San Francisco, 1,918 miles. Dining station. 
Junction with St. Louis, Ft. Scott & Wichita Railroad, and diverging 
point of vSanta Fe line through Wichita, Arkansas City, and Oklahoma 
to Galveston and other Texas cities. Altitude, 1,455 feet. Popula- 
tion, 5,605. 

By way of contrast this is remembered as perhaps the 
most abandoned community to be found in the vStates 
twenty years ago, when it was a border town, the western 
terminus of the railroad, and the extreme verge of Kansas 
settlement. Poker and monte, carousal, and the practice 
of every conceivable form of vice and violence were the 
principal industries. The hanging of eleven men occurred 
in a single night. It was then a slab-and-canvas settle- 
ment. It is now an orderly, pretty city of churches, 
schools, and happy homes, surrounded by productive 
farms. 

It is a division point of the railroad. 



30 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

Intermediate Stations: Mission, Halstead, Paxton. 

Burrton. — Chicago, 678 miles; St. Louis, 538 miles; Los 
Angeles, 1,587 miles; San Diego, 1,670 miles; San Francisco, 1,899 
miles. Junction with St. Louis & San Francisco Railway (Santa Fe 
Route). Altitude, 1,465 feet. 

Connecting point of trains to and from St. Louis, direct 
through southwestern Missouri and southeastern Kansas, 
and junction with the St. Louis & San Francisco line to 
Ellsworth. 

This is largely a Mennonite farming community, about 
800 of that sect being settled in the neighborhood. The 
Mennonites are a denomination combining some of the 
characteristic principles of the Baptists and the Quakers. 
The main distinctive doctrines consist of non-resistance, 
abstinence from oaths, and the baptism only of adults 
upon profession of faith. Menno Simons, a Hollander 
who lived from 1496 to 1561, was the organizer, although 
not the founder, of the sect. It increased rapidly in Hol- 
land, Switzerland, and Germany, and was the object of 
bitter persecutions. Many members removed to Russia, 
where they were promised exemption from military serv- 
ice. Not a few also emigrated to America, some being 
among the original Dutch settlers of New York. But the 
first- Mennonite settlement in this country was at Ger- 
mantown, Penn., in 1683. Afterward branch colonies 
were established in Tiffin, Ohio, Somerville, 111., and 
Mountain Lake, Minn., and when the prairies of the West 
were still further opened up by the extension of railroads, 
they scattered even more widely, preserving their distinct- 
ive communities. In 187 1 the exemption under which 
they had existed in Russia was revoked, and they were 
given until 1880 to leave the country or abandon their 
peculiar tenets as to bearing arms. 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 31 

Most of the Mennonites in Kansas came directly from 
Russia, in consequence of that decree, as purchasers and 
settlers of lands placed on the market by the Atchison, 
Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad Company. About 10,000 
located on and near this line, between Peabody and Pawnee 
Rock, from Marion to Barton County. They are a thrifty 
and worthy people, self-maintaining in all vicissitudes. 
In the general catastrophe of the grasshopper plague of 
Kansas, in 1873-74, the Mennonite colonies in other parts 
of the country contributed money by thousands of dollars 
to their impoverished brethren, which sufficed for their 
needs, and has since been paid back, dollar for dollar, with 
interest added. All are prosperous, and not a few have 
become wealthy. 

Intermediate Station: Kent. 

Hutchinson.— Chicago, 693 miles; St. Louis, 553 miles; Los 
Angeles, 1,572 miles; San Diego, 1,655 miles; San Francisco, 1,884 
miles. Dining station. Junction with Chicago, Rock Island & 
Pacific Railway; Missouri Pacific Railway; Hutchinson & Southern 
Railroad; and Santa Fe line through Ellinwood, Great Bend, and 
Larned to Kinsley. Altitude, 1,541 feet. Population, 8,682. 

One of the prettiest and most vigorous towns in the 
State; settled in 1872. Stock-yards, packing houses, flour 
mills, grain elevators, sugar, lard, and salt works, furniture 
and ice manufactories, numerous wholesale luercantile 
houses, and half a dozen banking houses are examples of 
its commercial activity. It has a State Reformatory, a 
business college, and a conservatory of music. 

The enormous deposits of rock salt that underlie vast 
regions in Kansas at a depth of several hundred feet are 
here laid under tribute by forcing water into the subter- 
ranean beds, afterward pumping the resultant brine to 
the surface and evaporating it, first in open-air tanks and 
then by boiling to the point of crystallization. The 



32 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST, 



method of obtaining the brine is simple, though ingenious. 
A hole is drilled, as for an artesian well, until the deposit 
is struck. A small pipe is then inserted to the bottom, 
and over that a larger and shorter one. The water is 
forced downward through the space between the two, and 
the brine solution, whose specific gravity is much greater 
than that of pure water, seeks the lowest level in the 
flooded cavity. The upward pumping is then done 




STREET SCENE, HUTCHINSON, KAN. 

through the smaller and longer tube, which reaches to 
the briniest depth. Six hundred men are employed in 
these salt works alone, and the full capacity is stated to 
be 5,000 barrels of pure white table salt per day. 

It is after a stretch of level prairie, over the latter por- 
tion of which the railroad runs in an absolutely straight 
line for thirty miles, that you come to Hutchinson, The 
Arkansas River is encountered and crossed at this point. 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 33 

Henceforward the course of that river is closely followed, 
except for two cut-offs (from the present crossing through 
Kinsley to Dodge City), for nearly 350 miles, namely, to 
La Junta, in Colorado, and many of the trains do not 
make these cut-offs. Silent, sandy, and unattractive, the 
Arkansas is really a great and beneficent river. It rises 
in Tennessee Pass, above Leadville, in Colorado, issues 
between the Park and Saguache ranges into the idyllic 
valley of Buena Vista, plunges through many miles of 
profound gorges, and reappears to wander over 500 miles 
of plain before reaching Hutchinson, receiving the tribute 
of upward of fifty considerable streams on its way. It 
continues on through Kansas, Oklahoma, Indian Territory, 
and Arkansas to find its outlet in the Mississippi, its 
extraordinarily fertile valley sustaining an agricultural 
population that numbers hundreds of thousands. 

Formerly these plains, for a width of two or three hun- 
dred miles, were crossed from south to north by innumer- 
able paths cut deep into the sod. They marked the annual 
migration of countless millions of bison from Texas to 
Manitoba and back, feeding in the wake of the seasons. 
The plow has obliterated most of these trails upon the 
plain, but buffalo wallows are still occasionally discernible 
in sunken spots, and portions of the old trails are easily 
discoverable among the adjacent hills. 

Intermediate Stations (via Great Bend): Fruit 
Valley, Nickerson, Sterling, Alden, Raymond, Clarendon, 
Ellinwood, Dartmouth, Great Bend, Dundee, Pawnee 
Rock, Larned, Hamburg, Garfield, Nettleton. 

Intermediate Stations (via Kinsley cut-off): Sher- 
man, Partridge, Abbyville, Plevna, Sylvia, Zenith, Stafford, 
St. John, Dillwyn, Macksville, Belpre, Lewis. 

Kinsley. — Chicago, 791 miles; St. Louis, 651 miles; Los Angeles, 
3 



34 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

1,474 miles; San Diego, 1,557 miles; San Francisco, 1,786 miles. Alti- 
tude, 2,179 feet. Population, 771. Dining station. 

A second crossing- of the Arkansas River. 
Intermediate Stations: Offerle, Bellefont, Speare- 
ville, Wrig-ht. 

Dodge City. — Chicago, 827 miles; St. Louis, 687 miles; Los 
Angeles, 1,438 miles; San Diego, 1,521 miles; San Francisco, 1,750 
miles. Dining station. Junction with Dodge City, Montezuma & 
Trinidad Railway, and Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific Railway. 
Altitude, 2,493 feet. Po23ulation, 1,763. 

This is the location of the old Fort Dodge Military 
Reservation, where now is the State Soldiers' Home, with 
about 300 inmates. 

Dodge City acquired some celebrity, not many years 
back, as a rendezvous for cowboys, whose particular 
pleasure, when nothing more exciting" engaged their 
attention in idle hours, was to make a characteristic 
demonstration when the overland trains passed. And the 
life of the city was a wild and reckless one. But phases 
in the West change rapidly, and all that is now a matter 
of reminiscence. It possesses electric lights, water-works, 
and a flour mill, and is a receiving and distributing point 
for the surrounding agricultural and grazing country. 

Here the time changes one hour. 

The adoption of arbitrary standards of time grew out 
of the difficulties of adjusting business operations, partic- 
ularly the complicated details of arranging railroad train 
schedules to the differences of local solar time. For the 
purpose of simplification, four divisions are recognized in 
the United States, namely. Eastern, Central, Mountain, 
and Pacific, in which respectively the solar time on the 
75th, 90th, 105th, and 1 20th degrees of west longitude is 
used. The difference of 15 degrees longitude between 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



35 



the consecutive standards is one-twenty-fourth of the 
earth's circumference, and the difference in time is con- 
sequently exactly one hour. Railroads commonly adhere 
to one of these standards, but in not a few cities both 
standard and local time are in use, and clocks have an 
additional minute-hand in order that both may be indi- 
cated. The actual working boundaries between these 




OLD-TIME CAMPING FREIGHTER. 

standards, however, far from conforming to meridian 
lines, are extremely irregular, as will be seen in the 
following: 

Actual dividing points^ in practice, between Central ajid 
Mountain Sections — Dodge City, Ellis, Phillipsburg, and 
Oakley, Kan.; El Paso and Texline, Texas; Holyoke and 
Hoisington, Colo.; Long Pine, North Platte, and McCook, 
Neb.; Mandan and Minot, N. D. 

Between Moimtain and Pacific Sections — Barstow and 



36 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

Mojave, Cal.; Deming, N. M.; Hope and Troy, Idaho; 
Ogden, Utah.; Huntington, Ore. 

Convenience in railroad operation is the controlling 
cause of this irregularity. El Paso, Texas, for example, 
is the focal point of four ponderous railroad systems, each 
basing on a different standard of time. In that city, as a 
consequence, four standards are in use — Central Time by 
the city and the Atlantic System of the Southern Pacific 
Company; Mountain Time by the Atchison, Topeka & 
Santa Fe Railroad Company; Pacific Time by the Pacific 
System of the Southern Pacific Company; and City of 
Mexico Time by the Mexican Central Railway Company. 

As the earth revolves toward the east, it follows that 
the east is farther advanced in time than the west, and 
consequently a traveler journeying westward from New 
York or Boston will, if he does not correct his watch in 
transit, find it just three hours fast after crossing the east- 
ern boundary of the Pacific Division. 

Intermediate Stations: Howell, Cimarron, Ingalls, 
Charleston, Pierceville, Mansfield. 

Garden City. — Chicago, 877 miles; St. Louis, 737 miles; Los 
Angeles, 1,388 miles; San Diego, 1,471 miles; San Francisco, 1,700 
miles. Altitude, 2,844 feet. Population, 1,490. 

An experimental grass and forage station, for investi- 
gating the agricultural problems presented by the dry 
plains of western Kansas, is located here. Mr. J. A. 
Sewall, superintendent of the station, is authority for the 
following information concerning its work. 

It has been in operation since 1889, having been estab- 
lished by the United States Department of Agriculture 
and maintained out of the botanical investigation fund. 
Seeds of grasses and forage plants, and of grains grown in 
arid countries, have been brought here from all parts of the 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



37 



world for a test of their practicability tinder the conditions 
that prevail. The total yearly rainfall of the region being 
exceedingly small, the inquiry is directed to the discovery 
of the adaptability of particular species and advantageous 
methods of cultivation without irrigation. Two hundred 
and forty acres are under cultivation, and about one hun- 
dred botanical varieties are tinder test in areas varying 
from a single square rod to forty acres. As a species 




A WESTERN KANSAS IRRIGATION DITCH. 

gives evidence of being grown successfully, it is given 
additional space. The ground is plowed not less than one 
foot deep, and the surface finely pulverized with a harrow 
containing i,6oo short, small teeth. The deep plowing 
holds all the rain that falls, and pulverizing minimizes 
the evaporation. By such a method of cultivation, with- 
out any irrigation whatever, and with a total rainfall of 
only five inches from seed-time to harvest, excellent crops 



38 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

of hay, forage, and special varieties of corn, wheat, oats, 
and rye are raised yearly, to wit : Jerusalem corn, 30 
bushels per acre, weight, 58 pounds per bushel ; winter 
rye, 26 bushels, weight, 58 pounds; Poland wheat, 20}^ 
bushels, weight, 60 pounds; Algerian wheat, 24)4 bush- 
els, weight, 64 pounds; oats, 70 bushels, weight, 37 
pounds; white barley, ;^6 bushels, weight, 48 pounds; 
black barley, 23^ bushels, weight, 66 pounds. Over 
ninety tons of seeds have been gratuitously distributed 
from the station to farmers in the Southwest, and are 
reported to have been cultivated with gratifying success. 

The significance of such work as this of the experi- 
mental station will be appreciated by the traveler who has 
seen the enormous tracts of similar land in our Western 
country that up to the present time have lain barren on 
account of small rainfall and difficulties in the way of 
irrigation. 

At Garden City, also, grain is handled in elevators to 
the value of nearly $150,000 yearly, and there is a flour 
mill in operation whose daily capacity is 15Q barrels. 

Intermediate Stations: Sherlock, Deerfield, Lakin, 
Hartland, Lantry, Kendall, Mayline, Syracuse, Medway. 

Cooliclg'e.—T Chicago, 943 miles; St. Louis, 803 miles; Los 
Angeles, 1,322 miles; San Diego, 1,405 miles; San Francisco, 1,634 
miles. Altitude, 3,365 feet. Dining station. 

COLORADO. 

Historical. — Part of the region now comprised in 
Colorado was included in the original Louisiana Territory, 
and the remainder was contained in New Mexico. In 
making up the present State portions of New Mexico, Utah, 
Nebraska, and Kansas were taken. The first American 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 39 

explorer was Lieut. Zebulon M. Pike, who came here in 
1806 and gave his name to the great mountain peak whose 
summit he vainly attempted to reach. Maj. S. H. Long 
came this way in 1820 and similarly perpetuated his name 
in a peak a little higher than Pike's. About twenty years 
later Charles Bent established a fort and trading post on 
the Arkansas River, near the present railroad junction La 
Junta, and in 1844 Jo^i^ C. Fremont made his first explora- 
tions of this part of the country. In 1858 gold was dis- 
covered on the South Platte River, near Denver, and 
Pike's Peak became a landmark for thousands of fortune 
seekers who ventured across the plains. 

The northern limit of Spanish settlement was the 
Arkansas River, which served as a partial boundary 
between Spanish and French territory in the early parti- 
tion of the country. 

The Ute Indians, now almost wholly banished to Utah, 
were the ruling aborigines, although, in the southeastern 
part. Apaches and other tribes roamed. 

Descriptive. — Colorado is 380 miles long, from east to 
west, by 280 miles wide, and contains 103,925 square miles. 
Topographically it is divided into the plains, the foot-hills, 
and the ranges of the Rocky Mountains. The plains 
occupy about one-third of the area of tHe entire State, 
rising rather steeply from an altitude of 3,500 feet at the 
Kansas boundary to nearly 6,000 feet at the edge of the 
foot-hills. They are treeless, save along the water-courses 
and where trees have been planted since settlement. The 
foot-hills extend north and south at an altitude of from 
6,500 to 8,000 feet, and are generally covered with timber 
and are rich in mineral. The Rocky Mountains are an 
intricate, many-branched chain, but are separable into 
three prominent divisions, Front, Park, and Saguache 
ranges, in which nearly 200 individual peaks rise above 



40 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

an altitude of 13,000 feet, and about one-fifth as many, not 
all of which are named, above 14,000. The highest point in 
Colorado is Mount Elbert (14,436 feet). Pike's (14,147 
feet), Long's (14,271 feet), and Gray's (14,341 feet) are the 
best known peaks of the Front Range. Lincoln (14,297 
feet) and Quandary (14,266 feet) are the highest peaks of 
the Park Range. The Saguache is perhaps the most 
notable range of the chain, being a rugged mass of gran- 
ite about 13,000 feet high, nearly 20 miles broad, and more 
than 75 miles long. Harvard (14,403 feet), Yale (14,204 
feet), Princeton (14,202 feet), Mount Massive (14,424 feet), 
and Mount Ouray (14,043 feet) are a few of its prominent 
pinnacles. This range is the backbone of the Continental 
Divide, and is crossed by two world-famous railroad passes, 
Hagerman Pass on the Colorado Midland Railroad, which 
reaches a height of 11,528 feet on the side of Mount Mass- 
ive, and Marshall Pass on the Denver & Rio Grande Rail- 
road, which climbs Mount Ouray to a height of 10,852 feet. 
The three ranges named extend from north to south, and 
between them lie North, Middle, and South Parks. The 
Saguache Range is prolonged southward by the Sangre 
de Cristo Range, which in turn is extended by the Culebra 
Range, and west of the last two lies the largest of the 
Colorado parks, San Luis, whose area is 9,400 square miles. 
There are many other parks of smaller size, and all are 
beautiful mountain-walled basins of great fertility, well- 
watered and timbered. 

Here the Arkansas, Platte, and Grand rivers and the 
Rio Grande del Norte take rise, besides innumerable trib- 
utaries to these and other streams. In this titanic land 
the water-courses are an unnavigable series of rapids and 
falls, which, in the lapse of ages, have worn deep, imposing 
gorges in their beds of rock. 

Colorado is the equal of any part of the United States 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



41 



in grandeur of scenery, save only the Grand Canon of the 
Colorado River in Arizona, Yosemite Valley in California, 
and Yellowstone Park in Wyoming. It is the most popu- 
lar summer resort in the West, thousands every year turn- 
ing to it from east, south, and north upon the approach 
of the warm season. The climate is healthful and res- 
torative, and the air is dry, 
pure, and cool, by reason of the 
great elevation of the region. 

mineral 




A COLORADO BEGINNING. 



springs which are beneficially used for a beverage, as at 
Manitou, or for bathing, as in the great pool at Glenwood 
Springs. 

Our route lies south of the great Colorado resorts, lead- 
ing across the southeastern portion of the State, over 
rather desolate plains, which at length give place to the 
beauties of mountain scenery. 



42 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



Climate. — Altitude, pure, dry, and bracing air, pre- 
dominance of sunny weather, a short, mild winter, and 
cool nights after the warmest days of summer, make the 
climate of Colorado exceedingly agreeable and healthful. 
On the summits of the ranges winter is a severe season, 
with deep snows, ice, and piercing winds; but while such 
extreme temperature rules aloft, the towns in the valleys 
and on the plains are generally favored with spring-like 
weather, the snow-fall there being usually light and 
remaining on the ground only a few days. 

In the lower altitudes the direct rays of the sun are hot 
in midsummer, but the heat lasts only through the middle 
of the day, and the summer climate can be properly termed 
a cool one. Sunstroke is unknown. 

For the benefit of such as are interested in the formal 
statistics of climate, the following tables are given. They 
are taken from the records of the Signal Service at Denver, 
and cover a period of nineteen years: 

total precipitation in INCHES. 



1872 

1873 
1874 

1875 
1876 
1877 
1878 
1879 
1880 
188 1 
1882 
1883 
1884 
1885 
1886. 
1887 
1888, 
1889. 
1890 



Jan. 


Feb. 


Mar. 


Apr. 


May. 


June. 


July. 


Aug, 


Sept. 


Oct. 


Nov. 


0.55 


0.22 


I 71 


2.09 


3-74 


2.07 


2.69 


I 75 


1-57 


0.68 


0.69 


0.13 


0.24 


0.22 


2-43 


0-75 


2.24 


2.00 


I 


41 


0.89 


0-73 


0. 16 


0.84 


0.53 


0.49 


1.70 


2-43 


1 .21 


3-35 





68 


1-34 


0.64 


0.08 


0.38 


0.60 


039 


2.24 


1.94 


0-43 


4-32 


I 


97 


2.89 


0.22 


1.28 


0.21 


O.II 


1.80 


1.22 


8.57 


1 .10 


1. 16 


2 


03 


0.60 


0.12 


1-50 


1.90 


0.40 


1 .40 


2.77 


2.30 


I 93 


0-33 


I 


30 


0.38 


215 


0-73 


O.IO 


0.48 


1.82 


0.05 


2.90 


2.78 


1.38 


2 


25 


1.23 


0.80 


0.67 


0.40 


0-39 


1. 00 


2.62 


3.36 


0.32 


0.64 


I 


38 


0.02 


0. 19 


0.21 


0.38 


0.32 


0.21 


0.31 


I. II 


1.22 


1.38 


I 


46 


0.89 


1-37 


0.83 


0.49 


1.22 


0.87 


0.50 


2.21 


0.09 


2.50 


2 


33 


0-57 


0.32 


1.68 


057 


0.20 


0.20 


1.47 


2.98 


4.96 


0.66 


I 


20 


0.06 


0.75 


0.71 


2-35 


0.45 


0.21 


3.10 


4-30 


0.85 


2.27 





75 


1.08 


1.49 


0.32 


0.22 


0.86 


0-93 


3-33 


4.61 


1.47 


0.65 


1 


71 


0.13 


1. 21 


0.19 


0.41 


0-75 


0.97 


4.94 


2.13 


0.66 


1-33 


I 


18 


1 .22 


0-73 


0.55 


0.62 


0.72 


2.36 


2.79 


0.09 


2.26 


0.50 


I 


62 


0.98 


0.33 


1-93 


0.67 


0.30 


0.23 


2 16 


1-13 


0-53 


2.49 


2 


68 


0.97 


0.97 


0.22 


O.II 


0-37 


I 15 


1.71 


2.66 


0.29 


0.41 


I 


51 


O.II 


0.77 


0-33 


0.50 


0.70 


0.40 


1-34 


3-44 


1.88 


2.94 





33 


0.28 


2. II 


0-53 


0.18 


0.46 


35 


2.50 


2.01 


Tr'ce 


0.79 


I 


89 


0.17 


0.64 


0.30 



Dec. 



0.29 
0.61 
o. 17 

0.59 
1.70 
0.79 
1.05 

0-33 
o. 10 
0.00 

0-73 
2.32 
0.76 
1.08 
0.87 
0.14 
0.09 
0.30 
0.04 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



43 



MONTHLY MEAN RELATIVE HUMIDITY. 



1872. 

1873- 
1874. 

1875- 
1876. 
1877. 
1878. 
1879. 
1880. 
1881. 
1882. 
1883. 
1884. 
1885. 
1886. 
1887. 
1888. 
1889. 
1890. 



Jan. 


Feb. 


63 


56 


45 


44 


51 


61 


56 


47 


42 


40 


62 


63 


54 


48 


54 


58 


41 


51 


60 


S8 


57 


48 


56 


64 


54 


57 


57 


64 


67 


52 


54 


51 


54 


53 


66 


S6 


58 




55 



Mar. 


Apr. 


May. 


61 


' 48 


56 


29 


53 


52 


59 


1 54 


42 


49 


1 47 


40 


52 


39 


45 


48 


54 


46 


43 


34 


50 


46 


60 


41 


42 


39 


38 


57 


48 


55 


40 


49 


59 


53 


57 


57 


56 


57 


58 


57 


62 


59 


65 


67 


31 


43 


47 


47 


55 


41 


56 


49 


50 


56 


4 J 


48 


5- 



51 
41 

43 
29 

38 
39 
51 
40 

39 
35 
58 
53 
53 
51 
55 
44 
38 



54 
45 
42 

55 
40 

34 
49 
47 
49 
47 
47 
50 
43 
54 
48 
53 
45 
50 
44 



Aug. 


Sept. 


Oct. 


Xov. 


52 


51 


42 


47 


49 


43 


50 


42 


45 


44 


54 


42 


47 


52 


32 


57 


1 '*5 


43 


34 


47 


1 37 


38 


52 


52 


I 51 


45 


30 


43 


1 43 


35 


33 


50 


48 


46 


57 


66 


54 


44 


49 


60 


43 


39 


47 


51 


49 


48 


56 


46 


53 


41 


49 


47 


57 


54 


55 


56 


5^ 


53 


50 


61 


55 


60 


56 


53 


51 


46 


51 


62 


50 


44 


53 


68 


50 


40 


40 


43 



Dec. 



54 
59 
56 
45 
52 
55 
53 
60 
64 
51 
44 
61 

63 
57 
53 
52 
50 
56 
36 



MAXIMUM TEMPERATURE. 



1872. 

1873- 
1874. 

1875- 

1876. 

1877. 

1878. 

1879 

1880. 

1881. 

1882 

1883. 

1884- 

1885. 

1886. 

1887. 



Jan. 



56 o 
62.0 
62.0 
56.0 
59 o 
58.0 
55-0 
61 .0 
63 o 
63.0 
67.0 
61.0 
59 -o 
64.0 
62.8 
66 9 
76 o 
56.0 
78.0 



Feb. 



60.0 
60.0 
64 o 
66.0 
60,0 
61 .0 
72.0 
59.0 
60.5 
61 .0 
56 o 

61.3 
60.4 
71.0 

70.9 
70.5 

61 .0 

77'° 



Mar. 



75 o 
62.0 
73-0 
70.0 
75 o 
76.0 
81.0 

73-0 
69.0 

71 .0 
70.0 

61. 1 
68.3 
68.0 

74-7 
70.0 
70.0 
71 .0 



Apr. 



80.0 
81.0 
83.0 
80.0 
82.0 
72.0 
80.0 
76.0 
77.0 
80.0 
76.0 
730 
70.3 
71 . 2 
74.6 
82.5 
80.6 
78.0 
77.0 



May. June. 



91 o 

84 o 
92.0 

87.0 
85.0 

85 o 

87.0 

90.0 

89.0 
83.8 
78.0 
79.2 
80.5 
86.0 
89.9 
89.4 

80. 5 



92.0 
99.0 

98-5 
97.0 
97.0 
95-0 
93 o 
95 o 
96.0 
95-0 
88.2 
91.0 
90.2 
86.2 
92 7 
95 9 
97-7 
92.0 
94.0 



July. Aug 



950 
99 -o 
102.3 
95 -o 

lOI.O 

99.0 

100. o 

98.0 

95 o 

99.0 

91 

95 

96 

97 

96 

92.1 
100.3 
100. o 

97 o 



950 

96.0 

96.5 

96.0 
100. o 

99.0 
105.0 
950 
930 

95-8 
94.0 
91.0 
92.2 
92.8 

94-3 
94 6 
92.4 
98.0 



Sept. 



90.0 
92.0 
91.0 
90.0 
92.0 
93-0 



87.7 
87.8 
89.6 

85-7 
87.6 
90.0 
94.0 
87.0 



Oct. 



05.0 
86.0 
83.2 
84.0 
85.0 
85.0 
83.0 
84.0 
79.0 
81.7 
76.0 
75-2 
80.3 
80.1 
77.0 

85.1 
79.8 
85.0 
751 



Nov 



66.0 
71.0 
72.0 
75-0 
76.0 
67.0 
73-0 
76.0 
61.0 
66.0 
65.0 
73-2 
69.8 

75.0 
63.0 

73-7 
70.2 
60.0 
74.0 



Dec. 



59-0 
59 -o 
71 .0 
66.0 
68.0 
64.0 
62.0 
66.0 
61 .0 
67.0 
64.0 
62.0 
68.2 
74.1 
64.8 
66.6 

675 
66.0 

75 -o 



44 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



AVERAGE TEMPERATURE. 



l8-/2 

1873 
1874 

1875 
1876 
1877 
1878 
1879 



Jan. 


Feb. 


Mar. 


Apr. 


May. 


June. 


July. 


Aug. 


Sept. 


Oct. 


Nov. 


24 


33 


36 


45 


57 


66 


68 


69 


60 


50 


34 


30 


31 


44 


38 


53 


68 


71 


70 


60 


46 


41 


32 


26 


36 


43 


6r 


69 


75 


77 


59 


53 


42 


17 


32 


33 


44 


59 


69 


68 


69 


61 


54 


38 


28 


38 


35 


49 


56 


66 


74 


70 


62 


55 


38 


25 


35 ♦ 


43 


44 


5b 


64 


73 


70 


62 


46 


35 


27 


3b 


46 


49 


54 


63 


73 


72 


58 


50 


42 


24 


3b 


46 


50 


61 


68 


74 


69 


62 


52 


38 


36 


28 


34 


47 


57 


67 


70 


69 


61 


48 


22 


26 


30 


38 


52 


59 


71 


75 


73 


60 


50 


36 


30 


38 


43 


47 


52 


65 


71 


72 


63 


50 


37 


28 


22 


44 


46 


54 


65 


71 


71 


62 


47 


43 


32 


30 


39 


44 


54 


67 


74 


68 


65 


46 


42 


29 


32 


38 


46 


53 


64 


70 


68 


62 


49 


43 


21 


39 


34 


44 


61 


65 


1\ 


71 


60 


52 


33 


31 


32 


46 


49 


60 


69 


69 


68 


63 


48 


40 


27 


29 


33 


53 


53 


68 


71 


65 


61 


48 


34 


27 


30 


43 


51 


56 


64 


72 


73 


60 


52 


32 


28 


34 


41 


48 


58 


68 


75 


69 


68 


50 


40 



Dec. 



28 
23 
30 
38 
28 
33 
23 
29 
30 
39 
35 
32 
25 
36 
37 
29 
34 
40 



MINIMUM TEMPERATURE. 





Jan. 


Feb.' 


Mar. 


Apr. 


May. 


June. 


July. 


Aug. 


Sept. 


Oct. 


Nov. 


Dec. 


I872-- 

1873- . 


— 22.0 


— 4.0 
30.0 


.0 


19.0 
10. 


27.0 
27.0 


430 
42.0 


45-0 
42.0 


1 






— .8 


—17.0 


11 .0 


50.0 


28.0 


1.0 


1.0 


— 5 f> 


1874.- 


— 7.0 


— II. 


12.0 


14.0 


29.0 


40.0 


51.0 


51.2 


34-6 


13.2 


8.0 


— 50 


I875-- 


— 29.0 


— 3-0 


I.O 


9.0 


35-0 


38.0 


53-0 


50.0 


32.0 


27.0 


5-0 


— 30 


1876.. 


2.0 


7.0 


3-0 


4.0 


32.0 


38.0 


43 


44.0 


32.0 


24.0 


3-0 


—25.0 


1877.. 


—15.0 


16.0 


0.0 


12.0 


32.0 


39 -o 


48.0 


47.0 


37 -o 


22.0 


—18.0 


— 50 


1878.. 


— 12. 


15-0 


21.0 


25.0 


32.0 


430 


540 


54-0 


34-0 


10. 


II. 


— 12.0 


1879.. 


— lO.O 


— 3-0 


17.0 


28.0 


37-0 


43-0 


52.0 


50.0 


38.0 


20.0 


II. 


—17.0 


1880.. 


— 6.0 


— 8.0 


— 10. 


80.0 


32.0 


39-0 


54-0 


50.0 


350 


26.0 


—13-5 


— II 


1881.. 


— 12.0 


— 20.0 


8.0 


180.0 


34-6 


48.9 


57-0 


531 


37-0 


28.0 


10.5 


18.0 


1882.. 


1.2 


10.5 


10. 


21.0 


34-0 


43-0 


49.0 


47.0 


38.8 


27-3 


— 4.0 


— 2.0 


1883.. 


— 20.0 


— 22.0 


18.0 


22.0 


31-5 


37-0 


52.0 


50.0 


40s 


25.0 


23-4 


2.0 


1884. . 


— 2.0 


— 15-0 


10.9 


22.5 


28.0 


48.0 


52.0 


51.0 


40.0 


26.0 


13.2 


— 8.0 


1885.. 


— 10.9 


0.2 


5-4 


17.6 


27.1 


41.0 


50-3 


46.4 


42.5 


21.9 


II. 2 


-5-6 


1886.. 


— 18.9 


2.9 


— 10.7 


20.5 


35-5 


46.8 


55-5 


48.5 


29.0 


22.6 


— 6.0 


1.4 


1887.. 


-17.6 


— 2.6 


13.2 


20.5 


30-9 


43-7 


50.0 


46.9 


35-0 


7.8 


—14.2 


-13.6 


1888.. 


— 20.3 


155 


— 1-5 


30.0 


31-5 


41 .0 


51-4 


49.2 


38.0 


26.0 


"•5 


7.2 


1889.. 


3-5 


— 7.0 


18.0 


29.0 


32 


37-0 


50.0 


46.0 


30.0 


25.0 


30 


4.0 


1890. . 


— 7-5 


— 8.0 


5-0 


195 


31.8 


370 


540 


48. 


34-0 


25 I 


17.0 


13-8 



Dash ( — ) denotes below zero. 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



45 



WEATHER. 



Jan. 

1872. 

1873- 
1874- 
1875- 
1876. 
1877. 
1878. 
1879. 



Feb. 

1872. 

1873- 
1874. 
1875- 
1876. 
1877. 



1879. 
1880. 



1890 

March. 

1872 

1873 ... 

'874 

1875..... 

1876 

1877 



1879 



1890. 







>. 






u 


X) 


C 


rt 


3 







fe 






M 

q 


13 


14 


4 


4 


II 


13 


7 


4 


12 


13 


6 


3 


10 


15 


6 


7 


23 


7 


I 


2 


16 


12 


3 


7 


21 


9 


I 


I 


4 


8 


2 


4 


19 


10 


2 


5 


9 


15 


7 


7 


20 


lO 


I 


b 


15 


II 


5 


7 


18 


II 


2 


5 


15 


II 


5 


3 


14 


IS 


2 


8 


12 


19 





8 


21 


7 


3 


4 


14 


II 


6 


8 


16 


II 


4 


4 


7 


19 


3 


6 


12 


13 


3 


3 


II 


10 


7 


5 


12 


12 


4 


3 


17 


12 





5 


15 


7 





4 


II 


10 


7 


b 


10 


16 


2 


2 


14 


12 


3 


6 


8 


13 


7 


7 


17 


10 


I 


3 


22 


6 





2 


16 


II 


2 


8 


II 


15 


2 


9 


II 


12 


5 


4 


18 


9 


1 


5 


13 


9 


7 


5 


4 


Q 


15 


6 


8 


12 


8 


7 


9 


II 


II 


10 


16 


10 


•S 


4 


7 


17 


7 


8 


15 


II 


5 


6 


12 


9 


10 


11 


12 


10 


9 


8 


9 


12 


10 


8 


15 


II 


5 


5 


17 


12 


2 


3 


9 


14 


8 


8 


21 


7 


3 


2 


18 


9 


4 


4 


13 


15 


3 


7 


14 


14 


3 


8 


II 


16 


4 


11 


10 


18 


3 


4 


13 


10 


8 


II 


3 


2S 


3 


4 


6 


16 


9 


4 



April 

872... 
873... 
874--- 
875--- 
876... 

877--- 



890.. 
May. 

872.. 
873-- 
874- 
875- 
876.. 

877-- 



879. 
880. 



879. 



887. 



June. 



873- 
874- 
875- 
876. 

877- 



879 - 



890. 







^ 




n\ 


u 


x; 


c 


(1) 


rt 


y 


*•"* 





b 


q 
9 


q 
9 


9 


12 


7 


14 


9 


8 


10 


13 


7 


10 


10 


14 


b 


8 


12 


14 


4 


6| 


II 


b 


13 


10 


20 


13 


7 


I 


10 


14 


b 


12 


14 


II 


5 


4 


10 


15 


5 


b 


12 


13 


5 


10 


8 


9 


13 


13 


6 


19 


5 


13 


7 


13 


10 


13 


5 


12 


13 


lb 


8 


14 


8 


10 


14 


12 


4 


.S 


4 


lb 


10 


10 


8 


13 


9 


9 


7 


13 


II 


i6| 


7 


13 


II 


18! 


8 


lb 


7 


q' 


8 


18 


5 


II 


9 


i.S 


7 


10 


8 


17 


b 


9| 


7 


lb 


8 


20 


20 


8 


3 


2 


12 


16 


3 


7 


6 


20 


5 


10 


7 


14 


10 


13I 


7 


14 


10 


"i 


9 


13 


9 


17! 


b 


15 


10 


i7| 


lb 


15 





4 


12 


15 


4 


5 


7 


15 


9 


lb 


I 


18 


12 


12 


5 


19 


7 


12 


II 


12 


7 


9 


^5 


10 


5 


7 


14 


13 


3 


9 


13 


14 


3 


4 


15 


10 


5 


9i 


lb 


10 


4 


5 


II 


14 


5 


M 


15 


15 





3 


14 


15 


I 


7 


II 


17 


2 


I 


8 


18 


4 


15 


21 


5 


4 


8 


5 


21 


4 


9 


12 


14 


4 


9 


9 


18 


3|"| 


10 


17 


3' 


b 


15 


15 





5 


5 


22 


3 


12 


9 


21 









July, 

872.. 
873- 
874-- 
875- 
876.. 

877-- 



890 

August, 

872 

873 ■ 

874 

875 

876 

877 



879- 



890.. 

Sept. 

872.. 

873-- 
874... 

875- 
876.., 

877— 



879- 



890. 







>, 




J5 

0) 


ni 


3 


C 


U 


fe 





q 


12 


14 


5 


8 


13 


5 


3 


9 


lO 


14 


7 


12 


3 


17 


II 


lb 


15 


13 


3 


8 


lb 


12 


3 


3 


II 


17 


3 


12 


II 


17 


3 


7 


12 


15 


4 


5 


15 


14 


2 


Q 


18 


12 


I 


7 


15 


10 


b 


12 


8 


21 


2 


12 


9 


19 


3 


15 


lb 


II 


4 


5 


10 


17 


4 


9 


7 


22 


2 


II 


b 


19 


6 


10 


I 


21 


9 


8 


8 


IS 


8 


II 


10 


18 


3 


4 


7 


15 


9 


II 


7 


15 


9 


IS 


13 


12 


6 


9 


9 


20 


2 


7 


13 


10 


8 


12 


14 


II 


b 


.S 


15 


13 


3 


10 


12 


lb 


3 


lb 


20 


8 


3 


8 


lb 


15 





5 


9 


19 


3 


13 


12 


14 


5 


lb 


II 


18 


2 


10 


II 


16 


4 


9 


7 


iq 


,S 


8 


b 


21 


4 


6 


9 


12 


10 


10 


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46 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



. Industrial. — Mining in Colorado began with the dis- 
covery of gold in 1858, but it has grown to be the second 
silver-producing State, the principal smelters being 
located at Denver and Pueblo. The extent of its iron 
mines is very great. It has 40,000 square miles of coal 
fields, in whose mines nearly 6,000 men are employed. Its 
annual coal product is 2,500,000 tons, in which both anthra- 
cite and bituminous are included. Petroleum wells have 
been in operation here for ten years past. Variegated 




A COLORADO RANCH. 



marbles and sandstone, granite, and gypsum are largely 
quarried. 

In spite of the large output of metals, the value of the 
yearly agricultural and horticultural product is even 
greater. Alfalfa, wheat, barley, oats, corn, potatoes, 
apples, peaches, grapes, and berries are extensively raised. 
Colorado fruit is of the very best quality, and fruit-raising 
in suitable localities is one of the most profitable of legit- 
imate industries. 

The annual export of wool reaches 10,000,000 pounds, 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 47 

and there are about 1,500,000 cattle. The winter climate 
is peculiarly favorable to the raising of stock and sheep, 
as feed is always to be had on the ranges, and the animals 
rarely suffer from severity of the weather. 

PRINCIPAL POINTS OF INTEREST. 

Intermediate Stations: Holleys, Byron, Granada, 
Koen, Carlton, Morse, Lamar, Prowers, Caddoa, Hilton. 

Las Animas. — Chicago, 1,010 miles; St. Louis, 870 miles; Los 
Angeles, 1,255 miles; San Diego, 1,338 miles; San Francisco, 1,567 
miles. Altitude, 3,871 feet. Population, 611. 

An old j\Iexican town, at the confluence of the Las 
Animas (or Purgatory) River with the Arkansas. This 
tributary in its course flows through a lengthy and pro- 
found canon, in which, according to legend, an entire 
company of Spanish soldiers perished in the days of the 
early exploration. On this account, if the legend is true, 
or perhaps merely exercising their poetic faculty, the 
Spaniards called this stream Rio de las Animas Perdidas, 
the River of Lost Souls. The voyagciirs translated the 
name into the French word Purgatoire^ which, in the 
vernacular, has been subjected to the pronunciation 
" Picketwire." This is worthy of note as an example of 
the manner in which names may lose their original form 
by translation, and may be subsequently corrupted into 
something quite meaningless until the clew is discovered. 
Las Animas, it will be observed, is a contraction of the 
original name of the river, and its signification. The 
Souls, would be perplexing without the explanation above 
given. 

Intermediate Station: Robinson. 

La Juiita. — Chicago, 1,029 miles; St. Louis, 889 miles; Los 



48 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

Angeles, 1,236 miles; San Diego, 1,319 miles; San Francisco, 1,548 
miles. Altitude, 4,061 feet. Population, 1,439, Dining station. 

Diverging point of the Santa Fe line to Pueblo, Canon 
City, Colorado vSprings, and Denver, and through Colo- 
rado Springs to the principal Colorado resorts, and via 
Salt Lake City and Ogden to San Francisco. 

A short distance west from La Junta, on the north side 
of the Arkansas, is the site of Bent's Fort, which was 
established in the "forties." Of this memento of the old 
wild life of the frontier, James W. Steele writes as 
follows: 

The occupants of Bent's Fort were hunters by predilection. 
They loved the wilderness, and never returned to civilization. They 
were fur-hunters and Indian traders, and Indian fighters at the 
same time. They kept no records; they did not care. The Ameri- 
can history they were making never got into any books. They were 
intolerant and savage-tempered men, desperadoes on a pinch, every 
one. Their ranks were recruited by fugitives from justice. Life 
was held very cheap. At Bent's Fort a sod wall, thick and high, 
inclosed about an acre. There never was a more terrible acre of 
ground. It was full of the most reckless men ever gathered in one 
spot. The man Bent was the recognized head of them, and was 
afterward the first American Governor of New Mexico. The com- 
mercial idea was probably predominant, for everything was kept for 
sale there. The place was in the midst of a great buJEfalo range, and 
around it Apache, Cheyenne, Comanche, and Pawnee gathered and 
hunted and fought. They used, when lacking a quarrel among 
themselves, to attack the fort. They charged the wall on horseback. 
They never captured it, but if one should visit those ruins now he 
might be sure that he was standing upon ground that had been 
repeatedly soaked with human blood. 

The following graphic picture of that early time is 
from the pen of Mr. Frank Wilkeson: 

As emigration increased on the Arkansas trail, Bent's Fort 
became an important place. United States troops, marching to the 
Southeastern Territories, camped there, and frequently secured 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 49 

guides from the post. Thousands of dollars' worth of goods were 
sold annually. Enterprising young men bought goods at Bent's and 
loaded them onto their pack animals. Then they rode north, south, 
west, in search of Indian camps, which they entered and there 
traded with savage customers. The peddlers of the plains traded 
only for the more valuable furs. They penetrated into the remote 
recesses of the Rocky Mountains. They crossed that mighty snow- 
capped range and drummed up trade in then unnamed valleys where 
unknown Indians lived. These men acquired trading routes along 
certain trails and jealously defended them against all intruders. 
They recklessly entered all the Indian villages they discovered. In 
time, if they were not shot or burned, they became widely known 
among the Indians, and were welcomed and trusted. They supplied 
the warriors with powder and lead and percussion caps. They also 
dealt in traps, bright-colored cloth, beads, knives, axes, fish-hooks, 
buttons, and brass wire. Many of these traders married Indian 
women, and from these unions sprang the half-breeds — dangerous 
men in whom the courage of their fathers was supplemented by the 
crafty treachery of their mothers. Some of the white traders, 
especially in the Rocky Mountain region, adopted the dress and 
habits of the Indians, and frequently became men of consequence in 
the tribes. 

Other men, lured from the bloody frontier by hope of profitable 
barter or love of adventure, or who sincerely desired to put a greater 
distance between themselves and pursuing sheriffs, loaded wagons 
with goods and drove westward to the buffalo range, expecting 
to meet wandering tribes of Indians. They were careless whether 
they met Sioux, Cheyennes, Crows, or Blackfeet. These men gener- 
ally traveled in groups of three or four, each driving a team of horses, 
behind which rolled a heavily-loaded wagon. To-day they traded 
with Sioux; to-morrow they met Comanche braves; the next day 
painted and blanketed Cheyenne warriors crowded around their 
wagons and exchanged furs for powder, balls, blankets, and hard- 
ware. Or, to-day they fought, and to-morrow their corpses lay 
blackening in the sun, and glossy ravens perched on their scalpless 
heads and plucked their eyes, and foul buzzards stalked around them 
and prairie wolves tore them to pieces. Their goods were scattered 
throughout the villages, and their scalps, suspended from sticks 
thrust in the ground at the entrance of lodges, waved in the wind, 
and little Indian children spat on them as they played. 

4 



50 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

The Colorado Resorts. — Many California tourists 
whose plan does not include a return by way of Ogden 
and central Colorado, make, either going or returning, 
a side excursion from La Junta to the famous resorts of 
Colorado. For the benefit of such the following brief 
account of the most noted is included: 

Pueblo. — 64 miles west from La Junta. Chicago, 1,093 miles; 
St. Louis, 953 miles. Altitude, 4,656 feet. Population, 24,558. 

Sometimes called " The Pittsburg of the West." It is 
in the midst of a large tract of country particularly 
favorable for the culture of fruits, vegetables, and cereals, 
and adjoins a rich mineral-bearing region. Its site was 
formerly a Mexican village, to which fact its Spanish 
name happens to be due. It is a metropolitan city, with 
handsome public buildings, and business blocks of stone 
and brick, and costly residences. Its industries include 
Bessemer steel works; ore-stamping, smelting, and refin- 
ing works; foundries, car and machine shops, and flour 
mills. Its climate, like that of all the Colorado resorts 
hereinafter mentioned, is mild in winter and very agree- 
able and healthful in summer. 

A famous attraction at Pueblo is the Mineral Palace, 
erected in 1891. This is a costly and handsome structure 
of modernized Egyptian architecture, 224 feet long and 
134 feet wide, and capable of containing 4,000 persons. 
The ceiling is 90 feet high, and consists of 28 domes, sup- 
ported by gilded columns, around whose bases are 
arranged plate-glass cabinets filled with rich mineral 
specimens. The Mineral Palace is open to visitors every 
day in the year. 

Colorado Springs. — 43 miles north of Pueblo. Chicago, 1,136 

miles; St. Louis, 996 miles. Altitude, 6,000 feet. Population, 11,140. 

The name is fanciful. It is a town without a spring, but 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 61 

pure, cold mountain water is supplied in abundance. It 
stands on the plain closely bordered by the Rockies, 
Pike's Peak very near at hand and conspicuously towering 
above the neighboring summits. 

Four or five miles distant, and easily reached by a 
charming ride on the electric cars, lies Broadmoor Casino, 



HELEN HUNT JACKSON's GRAVE. 



an elaborately beautiful structure by the side of a minia- 
ture lake. Here the tourist visitors to Colorado Springs 
throng for band music and dancing. Just beyond the 
Casino is Cheyenne Canon, the location of Seven Falls, and 
formerly of Helen Hunt Jackson's grave. The authoress 



52 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

particularly loved this locality, and had a log-cabin home 
above the head of the falls, which still stands and attracts 
many of her admirers. 

A visit to Cheyenne Canon is a good preliminary to the 
more stupendous mountain scenery of Colorado. Car- 
riages or burros are procurable at the end of the electric- 
car terminus, or the trip can be easily made afoot, as the 
distance is not great. Seven Falls is a name applied to a 
brilliant waterfall that tumbles through a rock gorge in 
a series of seven leaps, by the side of which a long stair- 
way extends to the very top, where is an upper valley or 
basin of great beauty, surrounded by timbered mountain 
slopes. Every day in summer the entire canon is dotted 
with excursionists, driving, riding or walking to the foot 
of the falls, climbing the stairway to wander still farther 
into the woodland, or urging slow but sure-footed burros 
along the intricate trail that leads by a roundabout way 
past the falls. There are huge isolated cliffs, domes, 
and pillars of rock warm with color; and the contrasting 
tones of evergreen and deciduous trees, and bright hues 
of wild flowers, and the diversity of landscape, which 
includes level stretches of shaded wood-road, smooth, fir- 
clad slopes, tremendous heights and gorges, a clattering 
mountain stream and roaring cascades, combine to make 
this a well-loved spot and one often returned to. 

There are good hotels at Colorado Springs, and many 
attractive boarding places, and there are more summer 
homes of people who are nominally residents of the North, 
East, and South, than anywhere else in Colorado. It is 
considered to possess the most salubrious climate of any 
city in the State, where healthfulness is, however, gener- 
ally the rule. There are no factories, and no other noisy 
or disagreeable business activities to detract from the 
quiet charm of the place. 



NEW OflDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 53 

Colorado Springs is connected with Manitou by electric 
and steam railroads. 

Manitou. — Six miles west of Colorado Springs. Chicago, 1,142 
miles; St. Louis, 1,002 miles. Altitude, 6,442 feet. Population, 1,439. 

An Indian name, meaning Great Spirit. Manitou lies 
at the bottom of Ute Pass, at the point where the pro- 
found mountain-notch opens out into the plain. It is at the 
very foot of Pike's Peak, and the scenic environment is sur- 
passingly beautiful. A broad avenue, eighty feet in width, 
runs through the village, and on either side are ranged 
villas, cottages, and a large number of hotels. The vSoda 
Springs are in the heart of the settlement, in the center of 
a pretty little park. The Iron Springs are situated a few 
minutes' walk distant. Aside from the natural loveliness 
and exhilarating air of this resort, there are very many 
objects of special interest, a few of which will be enu- 
merated: 

Pike's Peak. — There are two popular methods of as- 
cending the Peak, one by way of the Cog-wheel Rail- 
road, over which trains are regularly run in summer from 
Manitou, the other by carriage or on horseback from Cas- 
cade, half a dozen miles beyond Manitou. The railroad 
station of the Manitou & Pike's Peak Railway is in Engel- 
man's Glen, near the Iron Springs. The railway itself is 
a few feet short of nine miles in length, and reaches the 
topmost pinnacle, stopping at the side of the old Signal 
Service Station, which has been made over into an inn. 
The Peak is 14,147 feet above sea level, and is 7,525 feet 
above the starting point in Manitou. A railway that 
permits the safe ascent and descent of such a tremendous 
incline, which, in spite of the circuitous path is in some 
places one foot in four, must be constructed very strongly, 
and the locomotives themselves must be perfectly adapted 



54 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

to the work. Perhaps it never occurred to the unprofes- 
sional reader that nine miles of heavy track slanting up a 
mountain side at a steep pitch might be subjected to the 
peril of sliding bodily downward by reason of its enor- 
mous weight. But the builders of this railway thought of 
that, and anchored the track to the mountain bed rock at 
nearly one hundred and fifty points. The road is of 
standard gauge (4 feet S% inches), with the ordinary T 
rails, and in the middle are twin rack-rails, made of the 
best Bessemer steel, upon the teeth of which the six sep- 
arate cog-wheels of the locomotive take bearing. The 
cog-wheels also have a corrugated surface upon which 
both steam and hand brakes are used to check speed in 
the descent. The locomotives are constructed for strength 
rather than speed, and are placed below the coaches in 
order that an accident may not possibly happen in conse- 
quence of the breaking of a coupler, although the cars 
themselves are equipped with powerful brakes. 

Shady Springs, Gog and Magog, Grand Pass, Echo 
Falls and Echo Rocks, Hanging Rock, Artists' Glen, 
Sheltered Falls, Minnehaha Falls, Devil's Slide, Pinnacle 
Rocks, and Grand View Rock are some of the features 
by the way below the Half-way House; beyond are Hell 
Gate, Ruxton Park, Sheep Rock, Lion's Gulch, and a par- 
ticularly steep incline, and then comes the timber line, 
11,625 feet above the sea. The rest of the peak is wind- 
swept ledge, bowlder, and gravel. Windy Point and the 
Saddle follow, from which last-named point a noble view 
of Manitou is had. A further ride of nearly a mile and a 
half brings one to the summit. Forty minutes' stop is 
made before the train returns, but of course the visitor is 
not compelled to descend on that train. One may even 
remain over night at the inn. 

Although there are many mountains in Colorado a 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 55 

little higher than Pike's Peak, this is high enough for 
most travelers, and those with a weak heart or feeble 
lungs will do well not to attempt the ascent, for the rare- 
faction of the air at such an altitude is very pronounced, 
and the most able-bodied person, unless he is accustomed 
to mountain-heights, will find himself short of breath and 
disinclined to attempt any violent exertion. The view, as 
is the case with all lofty peaks, is sometimes obscured by 
clouds, haze, or flurries of snow or rain; but the trip will 
invariably repay the genuine lover of mountains. The 
round trip, including the forty minutes' stop on the sum- 
mit, consumes four and one-half hours. 

The carriage-road, from Cascade, is double the length 
of the railway, namely, about eighteen miles, and the 
fatigues of the ascent by carriage or on horseback are 
naturally greater, but for those who do not count such a 
cost too closely, the carriage-road offers much more of 
enjoyment than the brief railroad trip permits. 

Garden of the Gods. — This is a park of several hun- 
dred acres, through which are scattered myriad upright 
forms of rock, indiscriminately grand or grotesque, as 
if they had been sculptured by nature in the most whim- 
sical moods, shifting incontinently from austere to frivo- 
lous. Many are clear caricatures, irresistibly suggesting 
the object travestied, and although perhaps the one who 
named the Garden may not have had this idea in mind, it 
is a peculiarly fitting appellation for a spot where there 
are so many signs of supermundane laughter. You might 
take it to be an original playground of the little gods, 
where they hewed out crude designs, as children make 
creations of mud, while now and then an older hand con- 
descended to show them how the thing ought to be done. 

The Eastern Gateway is a splendid natural portal, two 
august isolated masses of red sandstone towering on either 



56 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

side of a narrow but sufficient driveway to a height of 330 
feet. Balanced Rock stands toward the western extrem- 
ity of the Garden, a ponderous bowlder resting upon a piv- 
otal base. The levity of the character of the smaller 
figures may be inferred from such names as Punch, Judy 
and the Baby, Kissing Camels, Irish Washerwoman, Ant 
Eater, Hedgehog, Toad, Turtle, Flying Dutchman, and 
Grandfather's Hat; and there are scores of like sort. 

The critical visitor may perhaps feel that many of the 
fancied resemblances have been forced, but there is no 
question of the grandeur and motley interest of the scene, 
and the individual names are an accumulation of years, 
for many thousands visit the Garden of the Gods every 
season, and enjoy scrutinizing every contour in search of 
face and form. 

Glen Eyrie. — This is a private estate, the property of 
General Palmer, but except on the first day of the week it 
is freely open to visitors. It is nearly three times as large 
as the Garden of the Gods, and contains Queen Canon, 
which is seven miles long. Neighboring the garden, it 
has much of the same character, and its attractiveness is 
enhanced by landscape gardening, which is maintained at 
great cost to the owner. 

Grand Caverns and Cave of the Winds. — One and 
a half miles from the center of the village, separated on 
the surface by a high ridge, and not feasibly connected in 
the interior, although it is supposed that intercommuni- 
cating passages exist. The way to Grand Caverns is along 
Ute Pass, by the Fountain que Bouille and past Rainbow 
Falls, to a lofty eminence that overlooks the entire basin. 
The Cave of the Winds is reached by way of Williams 
Canon, a narrow gorge with magnificent rock walls. To 
these, as to the other attractions, there are admirable car- 
riage-roads. 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 57 

The two cave-groups named are similar in character, 
although the '' rooms " in the first named are the larger. 
The ceilings are high, in some instances fifty or sixty feet, 
except in the narrow corridors between the principal 
compartments, although through those one may walk 
erect; and the floors are smooth and quite dry. The 
ceilings and walls are hung with remarkable stalactites 
and innumerable stalagmite forms. Some of the com- 
partments are good-sized amphitheaters, with natural 
galleries, and each one has its name, appropriately descrip- 
tive or suggested by fancied adaptability to the uses of 
man. There is in Grand Caverns a natural xylophone of 
stalactites, called by the guides " The Grand Organ," upon 
which simple melodies are played with a fullness of tone 
and approximate correctness of pitch that are surprising. 
Heard in that gloomy under-world, which lanterns and 
magnesium lights illuminate only enough to half disclose 
the brilliancy of natural adornment against a background 
of midnight shadows, some of the deep notes struck upon 
those ponderous stalactites will linger long in memory. 
The route over which the visitor to Grand Caverns and 
the Cave of the Winds is conducted by the guide is in each 
case about three-quarters of a mile long, and an hour is 
easily consumed in the most cursory examination of these 
really wonderful grottoes. 

Cascade Canon. — Altitude, 7,241 feet, 6 miles west of Manitou; 
Ute Park, 7,511 feet, 8 miles; Green Mountain Falls, 7,734 
feet, 9 miles; Woodland Park, 8,484 feet, 14 miles; and Mani- 
tou Park, 8,500 feet, 20 miles west of Manitou, 

complete the series of resorts on the Ute Pass. The 
main line of the Colorado Midland Railroad (Sante Fe 
Route) runs from Colorado Springs directly through every 
one, except Manitou Park, which is six miles distant from 
Woodland Park, and is reached from that station by a 



58 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



four-in-hand stage-coach of the Concord type. In the 
Colorado tourist season, which covers the period from 
June to September, inclusive, these localities are thronged 

with visitors. There 
are very many first- 
class hotels, most of 
which are marvels of 
beauty and luxury, 
and tents and cot- 
tages are also plenti- 
fully availed of. 

Cripple Creek. — 
This mining camp is 
conveniently visited 
from Manitou, via 
Divide, a station on 
the west, the entire 
distance being forty 
miles. The way leads 
through the uplifting 
scenery of the Ute 
Pass resorts already 
mentioned, and from 
Divide southward its 
character does not de- 
teriorate. The Mid- 
land Terminal Rail- 
way, recently con- 
structed, is now in op- 
eration from Divide 
to a point eight miles 
distant from Cripple Creek, and will shortly be completed 
through. 

In the summer of 1891 the site of Cripple Creek was a 




UTE PASS. 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 59 

lonely ranch, and in. a few months thereafter nearly 15,000 
people had gathered there in consequence of the discovery 
of gold. A number of very valuable mines are understood 
to have been developed, and there are many claims of 
excellent promise. The claims are both placer and lode. 
The ledge lies underground, near the surface. It is nec- 
essary to uncover the rock before it can be examined to 
discover whether or not it contains " mineral," and the 
pretty slopes of Cripple Creek are liberally heaped with 
the debris of such excavations. Out of the original des- 
perately scrambling mob of gold-seekers several thousand 
have remained, and the town has subsided into legitimate, 
sober work; but it is still very ragged and exceedingly 
picturesque, and the trip is a very entertaining one. 

There is an excellent hotel, constructed at a great deal 
of expense and maintained in first-class style, which is a 
fact sufficiently unique in a young mining camp to merit 
specific inention. The trip is entirely practicable for 
ladies and children. 

The name of the camp is derived from the stream that 
flows through the region, which in turn is indebted to 
some small accident which happened to a prospector or 
ranchman in former days. 

The leisurely traveler, desirous of seeing the best of Col- 
orado, should continue on through Granite Canon, a rock 
gorge thirty-five miles west of Manitou, through whose 
notch the railroad runs by the side of a fork of the Platte 
River; through Buena Vista, ninety-six miles west of 
Manitou, an exquisitely located city some 8,000 feet above 
sea level, in the valley of the Arkansas, at the feet of 
Mounts Princeton, Harvard, and Yale, which are known 
as the College Peaks; through Leadville, the greatest 
mining camp in the world, 1 30 miles west of Manitou, at 
an altitude of 10,103 feet; over the Hagerman Pass, where 



60 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

the railroad crosses the Continental Divide at an altitude 
of 11,528 feet, by a tunnel through Mount Massive; down 
the Pacific Slope, through Red Rock Caiion, and past the 
grandly beautiful Seven Castles of red sandstone; and 
past Aspen Junction to Glenwood Springs. 

Gleiiwood Spring's. — Two hundred and sixteen miles west of 
Manitou. Chicago, 1,358 miles; St. Louis, 1,218 miles. Altitude, 
5,Soo feet. Population, 1,170. 

One of the most attractive of mountain resorts. A 
conjunction of mountain, canon, and valley, clear mount- 
ain rivers and hot mineral springs, supplemented by a 
magnificent hotel and bath-house. The swimming pool 
is 700 feet long, no feet wide, and from 3}^ to 5% feet 
deep, fed by a hot spring and tempered to a comfort- 
able degree of warmth by a fountain of cold water in the 
center. In winter and suminer alike people bathe in this 
vast out-of-door pool, and find the practice beneficial 
to health. Special trains, facetiously called "laundry 
trains," are run from Aspen, and other near cities and 
villages, one day in every week, to accommodate the multi- 
tude of bathers. There are also natural caves in the 
mountain-side, where the hot vapor from the springs 
accumulates by way of subterranean conduits, and these 
have been fitted up for the radical treatment of stubborn 
diseases. 

The analysis of the waters of Yama Spring at Glen- 
wood is as follows: 

Chloride of sodium 1089. 8307 grains. 

Chloride of magnesium 13.0994 

Bromide of sodium 0.5635 

Iodide of sodium Trace. 

Fluoride of calcium Trace. 

Sulphate of potassa 24.0434 ' ' 

" lime... 82.3861 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 61 

Bicarbonate of lithia J 0.2209 grains. 

" magnesia 13-5532 

" " lime 24.3727 " 

" " iron.. Trace. 

Phosphate of soda Trace. 

Biborate " " Trace. 

Alumina Trace. 

Silica I -97 1 2 " 

Organic matter Trace. 

Totals 1250.041 1 grains. 

Temperature _ _ 124.2° Fahr. 

Carbonic acid, copiously discharged from 

the springs Undetermined. 

Sulphuretted hydrogen, discharged in per- 
ceptible quantity from the springs Undetermined. 

The vicinity of Glenwood Springs also affords good 
trout fishing, and bear, elk, and deer shooting. Trappers' 
Lake is reached by trail from this point. 

Denver. — Seventy-three miles north of Colorado Springs. Chi- 
cago, 1,209 miles; St. Louis, 1,069 miles. Altitude, 5,190 feet. Popu- 
lation, 106,713. 

Named after ex-Gov. James W. Denver of Kansas. 
This magnificent queen city of the plains has been created 
in thirty-five years, for in 1858 gold was first washed out 
from the sands of the South Platte by Caucasians, and 
from a mining-camp that arose after the gold discovery 
Denver has developed. Mining was the first impulse, and 
that and the treatment of ores has steadily contributed to 
the growth of the city to this day, three of the largest 
and most complete smelting and refining works in the 
world being established here, their yearly output amount- 
ing to nearly twenty-five millions of dollars in value. But 
Denver is also surrounded by a vast area of rich, arable 
lands, which produce wheat, oats, barley, and other grains. 



62 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

and roots and vegetables. It has acquired immense cattle 
and sheep interests, and furnishes a market for the apples, 
pears, peaches, plums, grapes, and smaller fruits and ber- 
ries which are grown in the Colorado valleys. It is an 
important junction point for many concentering railroads, 
has large manufacturing interests, and is regarded as the 
trade-center for 400,000 people. Its residences, business 
blocks, and public buildings afford numerous examples of 
architectural beauty; the streets are broad, generally level, 
and frequently shaded, and there is an almost perfect 
system of electric and cable street railroads. And behind 
all this lie the attractions of superb climate and scenery. 

We return to our point of digression at La Junta. 

In this vicinity Pike's Peak is visible for some time 
upon the northwest, at a distance of about ninety miles, 
and the beautiful Spanish peaks, twin-mountains at the end 
of a spur of the Culebra Range, northwest from Trini- 
dad, soon come into view, alternately disappearing and 
recurring until the summit of Raton Pass has been 
reached. 

Intermediate Stations: Benton, Timpas, Ayer, Iron 
Springs, Delhi, Thatcher, Tyrone, Earl, Hoehne's. 

Trinidad. — Chicago, i,iii miles; St. Louis, 971 miles; Los 
Angeles, 1,154 niiles; San Diego, 1,237 niiles; San Francisco, 1,466 
miles. Altitude, 5,982 feet. Population, 5,533. Junction with Union 
Pacific Railway and Denver & Rio Grande Railroad. 

The mining of coal and the manufacture of coke, iron, 
lumber, mineral paint, lime, plaster of paris, and fire-brick 
are the principal industries of Trinidad, although flour 
and beer are also produced, and it is the largest wool and 
hide shipping point in Colorado. It has water-works, gas, 
and electric lights. St. Raphael's Hospital, St. Joseph 
Academy, and the Tillotson University are located here. 

The city is beautifully environed by mountain scenery. 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 63 

The conspicuous flat-top peak on the range beyond is 
known as Fisher's Peak. On the right a ruddy cliff rises 
to a height of a few hundred feet. Upon its top a party 
of pioneers was besieged by Indians in the early days, 
and one of the survivors, named Simpson, chose to be 
buried there many years after, when his time came to die. 
A rude monument surmounts Simpson's Rest, which may 
be seen from the train at the station. 

The tunnel at the summit of Raton Pass is fifteen miles 
beyond Trinidad, at an altitude more than sixteen hundred 
feet greater. The difficulties of the ascent of the pass 
appear in the last few miles, but here the approach may 
be said to begin. 

Raton Pass. — Altitude (at the tunnel), 7,622 feet. 

There are three stations along the ascent beyond 
Trinidad, at intervals of five miles. Starkville is a coal- 
mining and coke-manufacturing point, and the remaining 
two, Morley and Wooten, are small and commercially 
unimportant settlements. The entire ascent affords a 
series of exhilarating views, best enjoyed from the rear 
platform of the train. The track follows the old Santa 
Fe trail, which is one of the most ancient of recognizable 
human pathways to be found on the continent. Wooten 
was named for an old-timer, " Uncle Dick " Wooten, 
whose partially-burnt and wholly abandoned house on the 
right of the track is a relic of the days of the six-horse 
Concord stage-coach, caravans of emigrants, and long 
wagon trains loaded with valuable goods and escorted by 
mounted soldiers to repel the attacks of Indians. Wooten 
kept the trail over the pass in repair, and collected toll 
from those who used it. But it was a frequented road 
centuries before Wooten was born, before the Spanish 
Invasion, and doubtless before the discovery of America; 



64 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

for the practicable passes of the Rockies are compara- 
tively few in number, and one at all aware of the great 
antiquity of human life in the Southwest will vainly grope 
backward for a time in the past when this must not have 
been a thoroughfare for aboriginal peoples. 

The scenery is not of the tremendous type, but fre- 
quently wide in scope and full of incident. The road 
is tortuous, and the pace slow, two heavy locomotives 
being required to haul the train. The last broad view, 
before entering the final cut that forms the immediate 
approach to the tunnel, is a farewell glimpse of the Span- 
ish peaks, seen directly over the Wooten house, rising 
from the far horizon of the plains below. 

When the railroad was first built, it climbed over the 
top of the mountain, by means of a many-angled "switch- 
back " which began near this point. The Raton Tunnel 
is 2,0 1 1 feet in length, and lies in New Mexico. A bound- 
ary post will be noticed some fifty feet short of the 
entrance. 

From the other end of the tunnel the descent of the 
pass is a comparatively short matter, and the city of 
Raton is quickly reached. 



NEW MEXICO. 

Historical. — The oldest existing civilization in the 
United States is here. Whether or not Cabeza de Vaca 
passed this way in 1536, after being wrecked with the 
Narvaez expedition on the Florida reefs, it is certain that 
Marcos de Nizza saw this country three years later, and 
that, in 1540, Coronado came with his soldiers for conquest. 
This same Coronado was a tireless explorer himself, shirk- 
ing none of the hardships of such enterprise, but intrust- 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 65 

ing numerous side expeditions to the command of chosen 
subordinates. He and his proxies discovered nearly every- 
thing except that which they sought, namely, gold. They 
tramped north and east as far as the Missouri River, they 
pushed to the northwest until they were stopped by the 
Grand Canon of the Colorado River, and they braved the 
terrors of the desert on the west until they came to the 
shores of that river on the border of Southern California. 
They hoped to find what Cortez had found among the 
Aztecs, some hundreds of leagues to the south — precious 
metal wrought into ornamental shapes, all ready for the 
hand of the conqueror; but in all the native villages of New 
Mexico no fragment of gold has ever been found. Here, at 
least, the aborigine seems to have regarded it with disdain, 
provided he had ever regarded it at all. They did find, as 
Cortez had found, a resident people of temperate, frugal, 
and industrious habit, civilized in a way. These were the 
Pueblos, an Indian people who tilled the soil and dwelt in 
large communal houses made of stones and sun-dried 
mud, several stories in height, and in some instances con- 
taining a thousand compartments. The Spanish word 
pueblo means a village or a people, and these natives, as 
well as their curious habitations, have ever since been 
generally known by the name casually applied by their 
discoverers, although among themselves they are Moquis, 
Zufiis, Queres, Tiguas, etc. 

How long the Pueblos had dwelt in New Mexico prior 
to Spanish occupation is as much a matter of mystery to 
us of to-day as it was to Coronado, three and a half cen- 
turies ago. Their origin, even their kinship, has baffled 
research. History disowns them. They are essentially 
unlike the roving Indians of the plains, and it is denied 
that they are Aztecs. They possess a tradition of having 
come from the north, fighting inch by inch against the 



6G 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



southward invasion of a fierce foe, until at last they came 
to these plateaus and built permanent fortress homes. 
This tradition, if authentic, offers explanation of the mys- 
terious cliff dwellings which, like swallows' nests, mark the 
faces of canon walls for hundreds of miles in southern 

Utah and Colorado and 
northern Arizona and 
New Mexico. In any 
event, when the Span- 
iards came the Pueblos 
had local ruins which 
themselves were the 
subject of traditions 
centuries old. 

The soldier and the 
priest marched side by 
side in the old days of 
Spanish conquest, and 
simultaneously with the 
occupation of New Mex- 
ico mission churches of 
thejesuitand San Fran- 
ciscan orders arose. 
Colonists from Mexico 
followed in the wake of 
the soldiery, and the 
first white settlement 
was made at San Gab- 
riel, on the Chama 
River, in 1598. Seven years later the present city of Santa 
Fe was founded. Upon its site a native capital is reputed 
to have been already in existence, and the visitor to Santa 
Fe is shown the house where Coronado is believed to have 
lodged in 1540. The Pueblos at first welcomed the Span- 







PUEBLO WOMEN. 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 67 

iards in the effusive manner of world-ignorant aborigines, 
but they ultimately grew discontented with Castilian 
oppression, and after a few small outbreaks united under 
the leadership of Po-Pe, in 1680, and drove every Spaniard 
whom they did not kill out of the Territory, burning and 
sacking the missions and destroying every reminder of the 
white men. After a struggle of twelve years to regain 
the lost province, the Spaniards reconquered under leader- 
ship of General Diego de Vargas. The colonization of 
New Mexico was then once more begun, and its develop- 
ment continued without serious interruption. 

Early in our century Santa Fe became commercially 
significant, and was connected by wagon route with the 
Missouri River, and also with Los Angeles, in California. 
In 1837, after Mexico had become independent of Spain, 
this Territory revolted against unjust methods of govern- 
ment and taxation, but failed to achieve independence. 
It was occupied in 1847 by General Kearney and the Army 
of the West, for the United States, to which that portion 
west of the Rio Grande was ceded a year later. The eastern 
portion came by the Texas cession of 1850. Congress 
subsequently, at different times, rearranged its bounds 
and extent, which formerly embraced Arizona and a por- 
tion of Nevada and Colorado. 

Several engagements between Federal and Confederate 
forces, during the Civil War, took place within the Terri- 
tory, and up to a comparatively recent date the soldiers of 
the frontier army were kept busy pursuing Apaches with 
varying success. 

Descriptive. — The Territory has an average breadth of 
335 miles, and its length from north to south is, upon the 
east 345, and upon the west 390 miles. Its area of 122,444 
square miles is larger than that of Great Britain and Ire- 
land. It is composed of vast upland plains of exceeding fer- 



68 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

tility, where rainfall is sufficient or irrigation is practiced, 
broken by innumerable alluvial valleys, and of mesas, foot- 
hills, spurs, and, finally, the lofty ranges of the Rocky 
Mountain chain, many of whose peaks attain an altitude 
of raore than 12,000 feet. The Raton Range, trending 
eastward, is crossed by the pass. The Sangre de Cristo, 
Taos, and Costillo ranges lie contiguous or adjacent to 
our route. The Oscuro, San Andreas, and Organ mount- 
ains are farther to the south. The mean altitude of the 
entire Territory is nearly 6,000 feet above sea level, and 
that of the northern plains themselves is fully as great, 
the lower portions of New Mexico lying upon the south. 

From the Raton Tunnel to the bottom of the pass the 
distance is nearly ten miles. Then the Great Plains begin 
to open before the view. The route makes southwest- 
wardly toward the middle of the Territory, at Watrous 
entering the fair green expanse, sixty-odd miles square, 
to which the Spaniards gave the name Las Vegas, The 
Meadows^ near whose side, midway, stands the old city of 
the same name. 

Then come occasional Mexican villages scattered by 
the way, quaint communities of adobe huts, the white 
cross of the humble sanctuary infallibly discernible. 
These give a novel interest to the ride, as fragments of 
the purely picturesque. There is something oriental about 
every Mexican house. It is either built around a square 
or is a modification of that architectural plan. It is 
always of adobe — bricks of clay mixed with chopped straw 
and dried in the sun. The floor is of earth, and the roof 
as well. If for want of repair the hut wears the appear- 
ance of a hovel, the fault is not of the structure. It is the 
house of the country, and, as a rule, is extremely tidy. 
Adobe is really the best material for walls in a climate 
like this. It resists heat in summer and cold in winter. 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



69 



The Mexicans are courteous, kindly, hospitable, and intel- 
ligent for their circumstances. Some of their strain rep- 
resent the most active and prosperous residents of New 
Mexico, but not such as you see in these wayside villages. 
These are the reverse of enterprising. You may chance 
to see them hauling wood in ancient carts with cumbrous 
wooden wheels. They prefer to till the soil by precisely 
the same methods practiced by their great-grandfathers 
before them. Even the primitive plow, consisting of a 
forked limb and dragged through its perfunctory cere- 
mony of tick- 
ling the ground 
by a thong at- 
tached to the 
horns of an ox, 
may happen to 
meet your eye. 
Although the 
modern meth- 
ods of a more 
progressive race 
are fast taking 
root about them, 
the Mexicans are still numerically in the ascendant, and 
stubbornly cling to the old life of the Spanish peasant, as 
poor, as happy, and as quaint, here and now, as ever it was 
at home. 

After these comes another mountain pass, that of the 
Glorieta, a lovely ride through park slopes to a command- 
ing height, then a downward whirl on the brink of alluring 
gorges that are green with pine and fir and rosy with color 
of rock and earth. Glorieta Pass is on the westward 
sweep of the railroad from a little beyond Las Vegas to the 
banks of the Rio Grande del Norte, below Santa Fe. 




NEW MEXICO OVEN. 



70 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

Reaching the Great River of the North, its course is fol- 
lowed for many miles. This is a Nile valley, every year 
inimdated by the mighty stream that is swollen by melting 
of mountain snows all the way back to its source in Colorado. 
When the flood comes in spring nothing can stand in its 
path. The sand-laden volume gnaws and undermines and 
rolls huge bowlders away like balls in its rush. The earth, 
too, is of a character easy to wash, a finely pulverized adobe. 
Among the notches of the hills waterspouts and the shed of 
heavy rains cut deep arroyos into the seemingly bottomless 
soil. You will observe many places where heavy rocks are 
heaped in between rows of sturdy piles, the only adequate 
protection against this formidable excavating force, which, 
in this territory and along this very railroad, has, in times 
past, repeatedly undone labor representing a cost of many 
hundred thousand dollars. 

Immediately upon passing Albuquerque, having crossed 
the Rio Grande, a type of country is encountered differ- 
ent from any previously seen. The land of desert and 
volcano is fairly entered. It should not prove dreary, nor 
even monotonous, for in addition to its unaccustomed 
natural and human interest it is full of vivid color. 
Black and white illustrations do not convey the whole 
charm of the western country. You could as adequately 
represent the beauties of a brilliant water-color sketch by 
a steel engraving. The sky of Italy is not more intense 
than this marvelous flaming arch of blue. Sand and rock 
are warm with tints of red and brown or cinder black. 
Mesa and mountain on the horizon wear the hue of indigo 
in shadow. The after-shine of a sunset is yellow fire. 
There is no " atmosphere." You can not judge, with even 
approximate correctness, the distance of a fairly remote 
object. Two miles or ten miles distant are the same to the 
eye, as if the laws of optics had been unaccountably 
modified to increase the powers of vision. 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



71 



The most famous of the inhabited pueblos of New 
Mexico lie adjacent to the road through this region, 
two of them, Isleta and Laguna, close beside the track. 
Acoma, the most poetic habitation in the world, is a dozen 
miles to the south, and Zuni is likewise to one side, farther 
on. All are easily accessible to a Caucasian, and will 
richly compensate the delay involved in visiting them. 

Ancient rivers of lava here parallel the way for long 
distances. The flow oozed from fissures in the plain, as 




t\ VV,' H^^-- 



PUEBLO OF LAGUNA, NEW MEXICO. 

well as from the towering craters whose slopes sweep 
upward to ragged rims against the sky. 

Shortly before reaching the Arizona line the Conti- 
nental Divide is crossed, and the rivers begin to flow 
toward the west and the sunset sea. 

Climate. — It is no exaggeration to say that here the 
sun shines nearly every day. There is a fairly well-defined 
rainy season, extending from the middle of June to the 
middle of September, but the aggregate annual precipita- 



72 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



tion averages only 13.61 inches. The showery afternoons 
of that period are usually x^receded by bright mornings, 
and during the remainder of the year the sky is unspotted 
by a cloud for weeks at a time. But it is not a land of dis- 
tressful heat, as one might infer. It has a summer climate 
whose equability of comfort has no superior in the Union. 
To understand this it is necessary to bear in mind the 
important factors of pronounced altitude and low 
humidity. Altitude is everywhere a proportional equiva- 
lent for latitude, and the climatic effect 
, of the altitude of New Mexico is to give 

it the same temperature that would pre- 
vail at sea level just seven 
degrees farther north — upon 
the New England coast, fo^^ 
example, other con- 
ditions remaining un- 
changed. Low hu- 
midity, however, op- 
erates as an element 
of still further amel- 
ioration. Humidity 
is the amount of in- 
visible moisture in 
the air, as distin- 
guished from rain and 

YOUTH, SUNSHINE, AND LEISURE. f^g 'jy'^Q pCrCCntagC 

of humidity here is exceedingly low, that of Santa Fe, 
whose altitude is 7,019 feet, being 48.8 per cent, and that of 
lower and more arid regions diminishing to 29 per cent. 
For comparison in this interesting particular the humidity 
of the following localities outside of New Mexico is given: 
Boston, 69 per cent; New York, 72 per cent; Buffalo, 
73 per cent; Detroit, 71 per cent; New Orleans, 79 per 




NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



73 



cent; San Diego, 71 per cent; Los Angeles, 68 per cent; 
San Francisco, 76 per cent; Olympia, 79 per cent. The 
effect of humidity is to accentuate bodily sensibility 
to heat and cold, the common discomforts of summer and 
winter being- due to this quite as much as to the degree of 
temperature registered by the thermometer. This is 
strikingly illustrated in New Mexico. The direct rays of 
the sun in midsummer are really fervent, but their effect 



■■^ir^ 



^»7 — -=o- — ~ 



..jL._- 



-II. 



. i_^ i 




PRIMITIVE INDUSTRY. 



is not cumulative, and, by reason of the low percentage of 
humidity, is literally not to be feared. Violent exercise 
in the sun is not attended by noticeable perspiration, nor 
by any added discomfort, save only that which may 
be due to unwonted altitude. The shade is invariably cool. 
The case has no parallel in the IMiddle, Eastern, or South 
Atlantic States. It follows that nights are cold in winter, 
and in summer entirely free from oppressiveness. Resi- 



74 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



dents of New Mexico wear the same variety of clothing 
the year round, and always sleep under blankets, although 
there are but few days when persons in delicate health 
may not freely venture abroad. The following weather 
statistics of Santa Fe may be taken as approximately 
representative of the northern half of the Territory at high 
altitude. The lower altitude and latitude of the southern 
half would naturally result in somewhat higher tempera- 
tures: 

U. S. Department of Agriculture — "Weather Bureau. 

OFFICE OF THE STATE WEATHER SERVICE, SANTA FE, N. M. 

Summary of Weather for Ten Years, 1882 to 1891, inclusive. 



Months. 



January ... 
February .. 

March 

April 

May 

June 

July 

August 

September. 
October ... 
November . 
December . 



Sums. 



Means 49.2 60.5 



27.4 
33-8 
417 
47.6 

55-9 
64.8 
70.0 
67.6 
61 .0 

50.9 
38.6 

32.4 



590 7 



la 



5 <u 



a 






OJ I Oj 



728.6 



17.2 
23.6 
29 6 
35 6 
43 
52 



455-1 



38.0 48. 



60.8 
57-0 
48.3 
42.7 
39-4 
36.0 
46.4 
49.2 
50-4 
45-6 
50.9 
59-2 



585-9 



0.55 
0.83 
0.66 
0.88 
1 .03 
0.83 
1.58 
2.18 

1-57 
0.81 
0.76 
1.03 



12.71 



T. o 

bfld) 



0.7 
7-5 
7.6 

8.3 
7.8 
7.0 
6.6 
6.2 

5-9 
6.4 
6.7 
6.6 



83-3 



.C 0) 

Q.C o 

O C 

6 c =« 

-^ C o 
0) 03 c 

oi o ?5 



I 06 6.9 7.1 16. 1 



85 



o 



14 
24 

II 

17 

22 

18 
19 



193 



o 



16 
17 



138 



II. 5 4.0 






I certify that the above is a correct summary of the records of this 

station for the years stated. 

H. A. Hersey, 

Observer Weather Bureau. 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 75 

By virtue of the climatic conditions thus briefly noted, 
New Mexico has won wide recognition in recent years as 
a sanitarium for sufferers from catarrhal and pulmonary 
affections. It is the center of a region of similar char- 
acter which extends northward 'into western Kansas and 
central Colorado, westward through upper Arizona, and 
southward into Mexico, with many gradations of adapta- 
bility to different stages and complications of disease. 
Numerous sanitariums have been established in the Ter- 
ritory at different altitudes, and in environments espe- 
cially suited to the requirements of particular classes of 
consumptive patients, who are scattered all the way from 
Colorado to Mexico. Many of the present active business 
men of New Mexico came here years ago with no better 
hope than to experience a speedy euthanasia, which is a 
word by which physicians disguise a painless but inevit- 
able death. It appears to be an indubitable fact that in 
climate lies the only hope of the consumptive, and that 
here, provided he' does not too long delay his coming, the 
progress of the fell disease may be effectually arrested, 
and in many cases the disease itself practically cured. 

Industrial. — Old as it is in the historical sense. New 
Mexico is very youthful so far as concerns development 
of its resources. In spite of its totally inadequate rain- 
fall, the agricultural possibilities of its plains are very 
great, and the valley of the Rio Grande alone should in 
time become one of the most fruitful valleys in the world. 
The primary difflculty has been the necessity of irriga- 
tion. Enough water runs to waste in the season of flooded 
streams to water the whole Territory many times over, 
but capital is required to utilize it except in a relatively 
insignificant way. The small farms of the Mexicans are 
located convenient to natural water supply, and individual 
enterprise has created a large number of other small 



76 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

farms, which arc exceedingly profitable, but the large 
areas have lain unused, except for grazing, save where 
conjoint capital has supplied the need, and these cases 
have been few in comparison with the extent of the 
opportunity. From tirrie to time new enterprises are 
inaugurated for the construction of dams to check and 
store the water of the streams and to ditch the neighbor- 
ing lands, and their number will undoubtedly increase 
year by year, for the reward is great. Another embarrass- 
ment operating to the retardation of agriculture has been 
that the most available land was principally held in large 
tracts under the old Spanish grant system, which got itself 
into such a state of confusion that what Americans and 
American law consider good titles could not be given to 
purchasers. The land court appointed by Congress will 
shortly relieve this embarrassment. The court is now 
engaged in the work of adjudicating disputed titles. Be- 
sides the lands included in the doubtful grants there are 
some sixty millions of Government lands unhampered by 
grant or adverse claim of any kind, but the limit of avail- 
able water supply and topographical considerations proba- 
bly will permit only a fraction of this ever to be cultivated. 
Hand in hand with the scantiness of its rainfall goes a 
very small number of water courses of magnitude in New 
Mexico. When these shall have been fully economized it 
is regarded as unlikely that more than two million acres 
will be practically irrigable. But 2,000,000 acres of such 
soil as this under cultivation will mean a great deal in 
establishing this vast territory upon an ample foundation. 
At present it consumes more produce than it raises, and 
the business of farming is attended with unusual profit as 
a consequence. All the vegetables, grains, and fruits of 
the north temperate zone, omitting only the citrous vari- 
eties (oranges, lemons, and the like), and such as are 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 77 

peculiar to regions that neighbor the tropics, are grown in 
perfection. Insect and parasitic pests are said to be 
unknown. 

New Mexico is rich in gold, silver, copper, iron, lead, 
zinc, anthracite and bituminous coal, and in garnets, 
agates, amethysts, and turquoise. The annual product of 
gold has reached $500,000, of silver $3,300,000, and of coal 
675,000 tons. The vast areas of pine and cedar timber in 
the mountains lie almost untouched. Two million horned 
cattle, 2,500,000 sheep and goats, and 200,000 horses and 
mules are owned in the Territory. 

Phenomenally rich in resource, it offers extraordinary 
opportunities to capital and individual settlers. 

Irrigation. — Old as is the practice of irrigation, and 
common as it is throughout the West, a few words under 
that head will not come amiss to the average traveler to 
whom arid regions are new. 

The idea is apparently as old as history. At least it was 
known to the ancient Egyptians, to whom it may have 
been suggested naturally by the beneficent periodical inun- 
dations of the Nile, as doubtless to other nations in a like 
manner, for where prior to such inundation it was impos- 
sible to profitably till the parched earth abundant crops 
followed the overflow. It was practiced by the prehis- 
toric peoples of New Mexico and Arizona, as evidenced 
by existing ruins of irrigating systems, and the Spaniards 
were wise of it and applied their knowledge generally in 
colonizing America. 

In the simplest form it consists in flooding the entire 
surface of the ground with water at frequent intervals, 
thus artificially making substitution for rain. But the 
common method of irrigating crops is to let the water 
into collateral trenches, which are dug sufficiently near 
together to permit the flowing water to " seep " through 



78 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

the intervening space of earth. In orchards a shallow 
serpentine furrow, winding along a row of trees, passing 
one upon the right and another upon the left, is a suffi- 
cient conduit. An irrigating ditch is termed in Spanish 
an aceqitia^ and the main ditch, by which the entire vol- 
ume is conveyed from point to point for distribution, is 
the acequia inadre^ or parent ditch. In some localities the 
volume is transmitted through enormous flumes, sup- 
ported on trestle work to conquer topographical diffi- 
culties. Again it is sometimes conveyed through pipes, 
along the upper side of a tract, with cocks at frequent 
intervals, and the farmer turns the cock and directs the 
rivulet as he may choose, with a few strokes of spade or 
hoe. 

The turbid waters of New Mexico do more than 
moisten; their burden of sediment is a distinct fertilizer, 
like that of the Nile flood. Sandy and apparently worth- 
less tracts are thus converted into most prolific gardens. 

Irrigation makes agriculture an almost exact science, 
stripped of the hazard of drought or flood, from which 
the Eastern farmer is never quite secure until his harvest 
is garnered. Successful agriculture requires a suitable 
soil, abundant sunshine, and neither too much nor too lit- 
tle water. Often the first two conditions are present, but 
the third is wanting. Farming by irrigation in the West 
combines all three. It matters not whether it is in west- 
ern Kansas, or Colorado, or New Mexico, or Arizona, or 
California; it is a logical business, and as certain as any- 
thing can be in this world. When the crops are thirsty 
the farmer here does not scan the horizon anxiously for 
sight of a cloud; he turns on the water. And when that 
thirst is slaked he is not consumed with the apprehension 
that the fields will be drowned by superabundance of 
rain; he turns it off. 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 79 

The cost of irrigation per acre is ordinarily rated at 
$2.50 per annum. One dollar and fifty cents of this sum 
is the charge made for delivering the water by the com- 
pany or community that supplies it and keeps the canal in 
repair, and the remaining $i.oo is the value of the labor 
involved in actually applying the water to the land. 

PRINCIPAL POINTS OF INTEREST. 

Intermediate Stations: Lynn, Hillside. 

Ratou. — Chicago, 1,134 miles; St. Louis, 994 miles; Los Angeles, 
1,131 miles; San Diego, 1,214 miles; San Francisco, 1,443 miles. 
Dining station. Altitude, 6,637 feet. Population, 1,255. 

This town, which is almost exactly midway between 
Chicago and Los Angeles, is an important center of the 
cattle industry, and is located on the line of those inex- 
haustible coal deposits which extend unbroken through 
this region for 250 miles. Blossburg, a coal-mining town 
of nearly as many inhabitants as Raton, lies only a short 
distance west, a branch railroad connecting it with Dillon, 
three miles below. Raton is the site of extensive railroad 
machine shops, and the headquarters of the Maxwell 
Land Grant Company. 

The Maxwell Grant. — What is seen of northernmost 
New Mexico belongs to this great land grant. For sixty 
miles 3^our route runs through it, namely, from Starkville 
on the Colorado side of the Raton Pass, to Springer. 
Before New Mexico was ceded to the United States two 
agents of the American Fur Company, Carlos Beaubien 
and Guadalupe Miranda, obtained the grant, consisting of 
1,714,765 acres. Precisely what equivalent was rendered 
does not appear, but the old Spanish rulers had a large- 
handed way of dealing out parcels of the earth to their 
favorites, and certainly the land was worth comparatively 



80 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



little at the time. Lucien B. Maxwell, a companion guide 
with Kit Carson on Fremont's expeditions, married the 
daughter of Beaubien, and ultimately acquired the entire 

property by inheri- 
tance and by pur- 
chase, thus becoming 
the largest individual 
land-owner in the 
United States The 
Spanish title to the 
grant was subse- 
quently confirmed by 
this Government and 
patent issued. The 
ownership afterward 
took the form of a 
corporation, of which 
Dutch capitalists now 
have control. It is 
a little empire in it- 
self, its principal set- 
tlements and activi- 
ties being some dis- 
tance removed from 
the railroad upon the 
west. Within its lim- 
its there are Mexican 
villages and prosper- 
ous farms owned by 
Dutch and English ranchmen. It embraces mines of 
coal, the surface croppings providing the Mexicans with 
an easily collected fuel, and of gold, silver, and iron, 
gold placer fields, deposits of fire-clay and cement, 
quarries of building-stone, and forests of timber. It 




A NEW MEXICAN MATRON. 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 81 

has a telephone system of 120 miles. There are single 
ranches of twenty or thirty thousand acres each, and 
many modest farms of small acreage occupied by settlers. 
Its agricultural products may be taken as typical of 
northern New Mexico. Corn is the poorest average crop 
among the grains. Wheat, oats, and barley yield very 
heavily, and the kernels are of extraordinary weight; 
35, 45, and 60 bushels per acre respectively are the 
average crops of these grains; 400 bushels of potatoes are 
raised to the acre; onions weighing 4 pounds, and cab- 
bages 45 pounds, are common. Thousands of barrels 
of the best quality of apples, and large quantities of cher- 
ries, plums, peaches, pears, strawberries, currants, goose- 
berries, raspberries, and blackberries are regularly 
shipped. Alfalfa is the principal hay crop. The grazing 
lands sustain innumerable sheep and vast herds of cattle. 
Irrigation is practiced, the water being taken chiefly from 
the head of the Cimarron and Vermejo rivers. 

Among the foot-hills and their canons are cinnamon 
bear and mountain lions, and clear streams thronged with 
trout; and in the broad and beautiful parks on the mesas 
above are white-tail and mule deer, grouse, and wild 
turkeys. The ranchmen and their Mexican employes are 
iisually enthusiastic hunters, and are particularly fond of 
riding to hounds on the hot trail of the bear. 

Intermediate Stations: Dillon, Otero, Hebron, Dor- 
sey. 

Maxwell City. — Chicago, 1,160 miles; St. Louis, 1,020 miles; 
Los Angeles, 1,105 miles; San Diego, i;i88 miles; San Francisco, 
1,417 miles. Altitude, 5,900 feet. 

Created for the convenience of the business of the 

Maxwell Grant. The intersecting water course is the 

Vermejo. 




82 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

The old Mexican town of Cimarron, on the Cimarron 
River, lies at a distance of twenty miles on the west, this 
side the mountains, which are farther distant than they 
appear to the eye. Until a few years ago Cimarron was 
a rendezvous of cowboys and fugitive desperadoes, and 
the scene of numerous deeds of violence. One of its con- 
spicuous landmarks is the burial-ground of men who died 
with their boots on, some in personal altercation, some by 
murder, some by verdict of outraged citizens acting on 
behalf of law and order. But that epoch has forever 
gone by for all the Southwest. The railroad was a species 
of Augean broom, sweeping ever along in its westward 
advance the most turbulent of lawless spirits, who found 
upon the border a greater toleration of their unrestraint 
than elsewhere. Their era was short. What has become 
of them as a class it would be hard to say. Such burial- 
grounds as that above mentioned accounts for some few; 
the rest have disappeared. 

Intermediate Station: Dover. 

Springer. — Chicago, 1,174 miles; St. Louis, 1,034 miles; Los 
Angeles, 1,091 miles; San Diego, 1,174 miles; San Francisco, 1,403 
miles. Altitude, 5,783 feet. Population, 600. 

Another Maxwell Grant town, exactly midway between 
Chicago and San Diego. A large irrigating system, with 
many miles of ditch in operation, exists upon the east, of 
which glimpses may be seen after leaving the station. A 
hydraulic cement, equal to the famous Portland variety, is 
manufactured here. The stream is the Cimarron, which 
joins the Canadian and flows eastward across Texas, 
Oklahoma, and the Indian Territory to join the Arkansas. 

The pueblo of Taos lies about fifty miles west. It is 
more conveniently reached from the farther side, and the 
visit to Taos is customarily made northward from Santa 
Fe, by way of the Santa Fe Southern Railway. 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 83 

Intermediate Stations: Rayado, Colmor, Nolan, Levy. 
Wagon Mound. — Altitude, 6,193 feet. 

Formerly the seat of a Mexican frontier custom house, 
and its queer-shaped mountain, which may be seen from 
the train, was a landmark visible for many miles to travel- 
ers over the wearying and perilous old Santa Fe Trail. 
It is a small village of about 500 inhabitants. 

Intermediate Stations: Tipton, Shoemaker. 

Watrous. — Altitude, 6,413 feet. 

Here begin the broad mountain-hemmed meadows to 
which the name Las Vegas is due. Fort Union, with a 
garrison, lies upon the right a short distance away. 

Intermediate Stations : Kroenig's, Onava, Azul. 

Las Vegas. — Chicago, 1,244 miles; St. Louis, 1,104 miles; Los 
Angeles, 1,021 miles; San Diego, 1,104 miles; San Francisco, 1,333 
miles. Dining station. Junction with branch line to Las Vegas 
Hot Springs. Altitude, 6,399 feet. Population, 5,273. 

This is the second city of New Mexico in population 
and commercial importance. It is one of the largest wool- 
shipping points in the United States, and in addition to 
this staple its mercantile houses handle a general business 
of large volume for an immense tributary and dependent 
country. It is a railroad division point, and a large num- 
ber of men are employed in repair shops, freight yards, 
and tie-treating works. Wool-washing works, a brewery, 
and a steam flour-mill contribute to its industrial activ- 
ity. Las Vegas contains the State asylum for the insane. 

It is widely known as a health resort for consumptive 
patients, many of whom find here the precise conditions 
suitable to their needs. It stands on treeless meadows, 
underlaid by blue limestone and red and white sandstone. 
It is watered by the slender Rio Gallinas, which is Span- 



84 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



ish for Turkey River. Las Vegas is exactly half way 
between St. Louis and San Diego. 

Intermediate Stations: Romero, Sulzbacher, Bernal, 
Blanchard, San Miguel, Sands, Fulton. 




STARVATION PEAK. 



Starvation Peak. — There is a symmetrical, flat-topped 
mountain visible from numerous points along a distance 
of many miles, but most nearly to be seen from the neigh- 
borhood of Bernal, twenty miles below Las Vegas. This is 
Starvation Peak. Two or three gigantic crosses upon the 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



85 



summit give an air of solemnity to the bleak mass which 
is quite in keeping with the tale of dole which forms one 
of its traditions. Its early name was Bernal Peak, 
derived, like the name of the little village at its foot, from 
that of the first settler in the vicinity. It is said that 
about the end of the first quarter of our century the terri- 
tory was generally involved in warfare with the Comanche 
and Navajo Indians, and the town of Bernal was attacked 
by the Navajoes. After a short siege the principal men of 
the town accepted an invitation to a council without arms, 
and were treacherously slain. The remainder of the set- 
tlers then fled toward the mountain, and about twenty of the 
number succeeded in reaching the summit. There they 
were secure from attack, but were besieged by the Indians 
below until they all died of starvation. Their bones were 
afterward collected by friendly hands and given burial, and 
the crosses were erected and maintained in their memory. 
Thus runs one legend. The other maintains that the 
crosses were originally erected by the Brotherhood of 
Penitentes, and when their devotion flagged, some twen- 
ty-five years ago, a mysterious hermit appeared and made 
his home on the peak, engrossed in prayers and in exhor- 
tations to his numerous visitors to renew the former pious 
demonstrations. The crosses, which had fallen down, 
were replaced, and the penitential ceremonies received a 
new but short-lived impetus from the exhortations of the 
hermit. 

The first version is the more romantic, but the second 
is perhaps the more plausible account, although it should 
be added that the Indians can not be persuaded to go upon 
the summit of Starvation Peak, presumably on account of 
a superstition grounded upon the tradition of some tragic 
occurrence. Still further confusion results from the exist- 
ence of the ruins of stone fortifications on the summit, 



86 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

regarding which there is no discoverable definite legend. 
The oldest settlers do not pretend to know very much 
about the matter. 

Penitentes. — The Spanish name of this order, which 
seems to have originated in Europe several centuries ago, is 
Los Hermanos Penitentes (the Penitent Brotherhood), com- 
monly abbreviated to Penitentes. It has many members 
among the Mexicans of New Mexico and southern Colorado. 

Upon initiation of a member his back is cut deeply 
with a sharp piece of flint or obsidian. The incisions are 
given a symbolic meaning, and their number depends 
upon the enthusiasm of the novice. If he asks to be given 
*' the five wounds of Christ," or " the ten commandments," 
or "the forty days in the wilderness," he is scoriated just 
so many times with the flint. The wounds are cut open 
afresh each year thereafter to increase the pain of the 
flagellations which are practiced. The scourging, or " dis- 
cipline," consists of belaboring the bare back with a cruel 
whip, often made of cactus or soap-weed, and generally is 
performed by the penitent himself. It is no perfunctory 
ceremony, but a severe flogging, repeated for a self-im- 
posed number of times, lacerating the flesh and drawing 
blood at every blow. One of the commoner demonstra- 
tions is a processional of such self-torturers. On other 
occasions the Penitentes stagger under the burden of 
heavy crosses, which they bear for long distances and to 
the point of exhaustion. The crosses are often twenty 
feet long and eight or ten inches square, weighing from 
200 to 800 pounds. Sometimes only the upper part of 
the cross rests upon the shoulders, and the long upright 
is allowed to drag heavily on the ground. In other 
instances the entire weight bears on the shoulders and 
extended arms, each hand resting lightly upon the handle 
of a sword, the point pressing against the side of the poor 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 87 

zealot, whose arms can hardly support their load, yet can 
not relax without plunging one or both swords into his body. 

These tortures, inflicted "for the love of God," are 
varied in many ways, all revolting; and the climax is 
reached in a veritable crucifixion, when men suffer them- 
selves to be bound and, formerly, even nailed upon a cross 
and suspended for half an hour in an agony which not 
infrequently has proven fatal. Modern public sentiment 
has practically done away with the worst realism of this 
horrible rite, but not a few Penitentes are said to be still 
living in New Mexico who bear in their palms the marks 
of the crucifying spike. 

The Catholic church, within whose pale they belong, 
has vainly tried to suppress the fanatic ceremonies of this 
extraordinary order, although they are slowly yielding to 
the sentiment of a more rational age. The Penitentes 
dislike publicity, and in their flagellations are accustomed 
to conceal their identity from any chance stranger by 
wearing hoods of black cloth. Their demonstrations 
begin with Lent and culminate on Good Friday; then 
they subside into unobtrusiveness as ordinary individuals 
for the remainder of the year. 

Rowe. — Chicago, i,2go miles; St. Louis, 1,150 miles; Los An- 
geles, 975 miles; San Diego, 1,058 miles; San Francisco, 1,287 miles. 
Altitude, 6,821 feet. Population, 315. 

Attention is called to this station, half-way between 
Chicago and San Francisco, as being a convenient point 
of departure for the Pecos Ruin and the upper Pecos 
River, description of which follows. 

The Pecos Ruin. — Fifty miles below Las Vegas, on the 
rise to the pass of the Glorieta Mountain, there is visible 
upon the right, at a distance of several miles, an open 
valley in whose center stands a gaunt brown ruin. This 



88 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

ruin is plainly to be seen from the train at several points 
on either side of the station Pecos, although it too nearly 
resembles the earth in color to catch a careless eye. It is 
what is left of one of the first missions founded in New 
Mexico, approximately three and a half centuries old, and 
about it are strewn the ruins of an ancient Indian pueblo 
whose greater age may hardly be guessed. Not impos- 
sibl}^ it was inhabited many centuries before the Spaniards 
came. The church ruin only is distinguishable from the 
train, and is not impressive in that view, but seen at close 
range it is augustly imposing. It is most conveniently 
reached by a drive of four miles from Rowe, a station 
five miles north of Pecos, and viewed nearly it possesses 
the valley — a lonely, slow-dying thing, weighted with 
tragic and mysterious memory. Upon a natural fortress- 
like elevation a few acres in extent, and rock-walled upon 
three sides, the razed pueblo lies scattered, an almost 
unintelligible heap of stones, with here and there a bit or 
an angle of wall standing. Upon the fourth side stand 
the dismantled adobe walls of the church. Every porta- 
ble thing of particular value to the antiquarian or the 
merely curious has been carried away long ago, except 
scattered arrow-heads of flint and obsidian, a handful of 
which may still be picked up from the surface of the 
rock-strewn slopes in an hour's search. 

The Pecos Church is supposed to have been built by 
the Friars about the year 1540, or simultaneously with 
Coronado's conquest, in accordance with their custom of 
locating their missions in the villages of the natives. In 
the Pueblo rebellion of 1680 it was partially burned and 
completely sacked, save for the oddly-carved beams and 
other crude architectural ornaments, which have since 
been stripped from the edifice. The number of arrow- 
heads still obtainable, after so many have been carried 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



89 



away, is sufficient evidence that this was often the scene 
of savage warfare. The course of old irrigating ditches 
is still discernible, and the plain which now supports only 
a few stray cattle and burros must once have maintained 
many hundreds of these agricultural people. 

The Pecos tribe, reduced by some ill-starred fate to a 
mere handful, quitted this place half a century ago to 
dwell at Jemez, near 
the Rio Grande, west 
of Santa Fe. 

Inquiry in this re- 
gion easily elicits re- 
puted traditions of 
the Pecos Pueblo, for 
there are aged Mexi- 
cans who apparently 
never in all their lives 
have been outside of 
this immediate local- 
ity; but it may be 
doubted if they arc 
genuine derivations; 
they sound more like 
myths that have been 
falsely imputed. For 
example, such is the 
story that the Pecos -=--^=- 

T J • • i • ^1. i. A GREAT-GREAT-GRANDDAUGHTER OF CASTILE. 

Indians mam tarn that 

here Montezuma last reviewed his army before ascending 
into heaven, promising one day to return, and that so long 
as the tribe dwelt here a vestal flame was kept burning 
upon the altar in expectation of his coming. There is 
no good reason to believe that Montezuma is a god of the 
Pueblos. In any event the Montezuma myth is incoherent 




90 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

and elusive, if indeed it has anything of genuine Pueblo 
tradition about it, and it is cited here merely as an example 
of local legend relating to a people regarding whom about 
as much is actually known, concerning their past history 
and present inner life, as of the ancient Egyptians, or any 
other wholly problematical people that may be named. 

The Pecos River and National Park. — Far in the 
mountains upon the north the Pecos River rises, and flows 
southward through the reservation of the Pecos Pueblo, 
crossing the railroad just east of Rowe, and continuing 
southeastward to a junction with the Rio Grande in 
Texas. It becomes a large and important river during 
its course, but here is only a mountain stream, although 
much larger than any yet encountered in the Territory. 
Its uppermost portion is included in a large tract which 
has been set aside for a national park, whose lower 
bounds reach almost to the ruin. The park is a wildly 
beautiful country of forest, and meadow, and mountain, 
said to abound in game. The river swarms with trout. 
The wordpccos^ apparently corrupt Spanish for " freckles " 
(pecas), has been thought to be an allusion to the multi- 
tude of the speckled denizens of the stream, in the same 
manner that the word blanquillos (little white things) is 
used instead of huevos (eggs) in the Mexican vernacular. 
As far down as the vicinity of the pueblo, the fishing is of 
the very best. While the trout do not attain the large 
size boasted by eastern lakes and the more famous Col- 
orado streams, they rarely weigh less than half a pound, 
and two-pounders are occasionally captured. They take 
the fly freely. The Pecos is shallow enough for continu- 
ous wading, except for occasional pools, and broad enough 
to give full play to the skill of the fly-fisherman. It is, 
moreover, a water-course of exceptional beauty, a succes- 
sion of rapids, falls, and whirlpools through exquisite bits 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 91 

of woodland and meadow, and occasional gorges with per- 
pendicular rock walls, whose splendors of form and color 
can hardly be exaggerated. 

It is unfortunate that the average tourist is dependent 
upon what he can see from the car window for most of his 
impressions of New Mexico, as of Arizona. Let him, at 
least, remember that the conditions which commonly 
determine the precise route of railroad construction are 
cheapness and directness. Unavoidable obstacles do 
indeed arise, and then the railroad is forced through 
scenes of mountain beauty, such, for example, as this 
very ride over the Glorieta Range. But far grander 
scenes lie on every hand, avoided because their grandeur 
is made up of material that is decidedly adverse to rail- 
road building. 

Intermediate Station: Pecos. 

Glorieta Pass.— Ahitude, 7,453 feet. 

Glorieta means a summer-house, a bower; and its appli- 
cation here is probably no more than an allusion to the 
gentle verdured beauty of the scene. Here the forest is 
again encountered on the main line, for the first time since 
leaving the Raton Pass, 150 miles back. The whole 
length of the pass is nearly thirty miles, and is a natural 
park which art could hardly improve. Away to the north 
the mountains lie piled, the fragrant pines thickly set 
between. There are cuts through the rock, and deep 
water-hewn gorges. The air is cool, even in midsummer. 
Twenty feet below the summit, upon the eastern slope, is 
the little town of Glorieta. The western end of the pass 
is Apache Canon, a savage notch where the mountain 
gives grudging passage. It must have been an admirable 
point for an ambuscade, from the Apache's point of view, 
and the name is unpleasantly suggestive of tragic doings, 



92 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST, 

although trivial circumstances often determine the names 
of romantic spots. Distinct historical associations of a 
different kind, however, exist here. A battle took place 
on this ground in 1847, between Kearney's Army of the 
West and the Mexicans, and here in 1862 the Federal and 
Confederate forces met in conflict. 

At the farther end of this canon, near the track, a mis- 
sionary priest named Lamy, afterward archbishop of Santa 
F6, once taught the Indians in a little adobe school-house. 

The Glorieta Mountain is the real water-shed of this 
region, and its western slope descends to the Rio Grande 
Valley. Thus it happens that the Pecos, taking rise very 
near the Rio Grande, wanders for hundreds of miles 
before finding a way to join that great stream. 

Intermediate Station: Canoncito. 

Lamy. — Chicago, 1,309 miles; St. Louis, 1,169 miles; Los Angeles, 
956 miles; San Diego, 1,039 miles; San Francisco, 1,268 miles. 
Dming station. Junction with branch line to Santa Fe. Altitude, 
6,475 feet. 

The distance to Santa Fe is eighteen miles. The 
holder of a round-trip California ticket by the Santa Fe 
Route can obtain a side ride from Lamy to Santa Fe and 
return, without extra payment, upon application to the 
ticket agent at Lamy 

Santa Fe. — Chicago, 1,327 miles; St. Louis, 1,187 miles; Los 
Angeles, 974 miles; San Diego, 1,057 miles; San Francisco, 1,286 
miles. Junction with Santa Fe Southern Railway. Altitude, 7,019 
feet. Railroad station, 6,954 feet. Population, 6,185. 

The approach to the New Mexican capital is another 
ascent. It lies twenty miles from the Rio Grande, in the 
middle of a high plain rimmed by mountain peaks which, 
during many months of the year, are tipped with snow, 
although the climate of Santa Fe is characterized by extra- 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



93 



ordinary gentleness and equability. Its claim to being 
the oldest city in the United States (St. Augustine, its 
only contestant, dating from 1595) rests upon the discov- 
ery of a native village upon the same site by Coronado in 
1540. This is perhaps not altogether an unreasonable 
claim, although it may be argued that in a world so old as 
ours, with the ashes of forgotten civilizations scattered 
everywhere beneath our feet, it will not do to rake over too 
much of antique dust in search of our beginnings. In any 




STREET SCENE, SANTA FE. 

event the Spanish city was actually founded in 1605, 
although some say 1598. Its population is about equallj^ 
divided between Mexican and Saxon. 

The older part of the town is typically Mexican, com- 
posed of little squat adobe houses irregularly strung along 
the sides of narrow streets. It is unwearyingly picturesque. 
Old men and old women sit placidly in the black shadows 
by the roadside, as if lounging were the only authentic 
business of life and they its hearty exemplars. Occasion- 



94 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



ally a woman issues from one of the houses to go a-visit- 
ing, her head and shoulders muffled in the black, fringed 
shawl which they call tapelo; or a dog barks; or a swarthy 
huckster appears aimlessly following the vagaries of a 
burro loaded to a small steeple-height with fire-wood or 
latticed boxes filled with garden-truck. Otherwise noth- 
„__ inR appears to be do- 



ing. One suspects 
the problem of life is 
solved here on the 
old philosophic plan 
of requiring but little 
to subsist upon, and 
falls to wondering 
how the houses, prim- 
itive as they are, ever 
got themselves built. 
A seventh-day inac- 
tivity prevails. It is 
a city asleep, or mum- 
mified, rather, pre- 
served almost un- 
changed for centuries 
by its gift of repose. 
It seems to be always 
drowsy noon, bathed 
in the brilliant sun- 
light which has no 




SAN MIGUEL CHURCH, SANTA FE. 



peer outside New Mexico. This sunlight is necessary to 
old Santa Fe. One can not conceive it in a land of fog and 
cloudy weather. The brown adobe walls gleam almost 
golden above their sharply-cut shadows. Here and there 
is a high-walled inclosure with ponderous gate of solid 
wood, through whose aperture may be had a glimpse of 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 95 

the brilliant green of dense foliage and the vivid variega- 
ted colors of flowers. These seem to declare the existence 
of a happy domestic life behind the adobe. 

In the center of the cluster stands the Church of San 
Miguel, upon the street that bears its name. Built soon 
after the Spanish occupation, it was partly demolished by 
the natives in 1680, rehabilitated in 17 10, and since further 
repaired into a resumption of its original appearance. It 
contains a very ancient copper bell, formerly in the tur- 
ret, in which the date 1350 is cast. 

Almost in the shadow of the church stands, among 
other houses, the one in which Coronado is believed to 
have lodged. This old house, until a year or two back, 
possessed the unusual distinction of a second story, now 
removed. It is inhabited by a Mexican family, and visitors 
are welcome to enter and leave what reckoning they deem 
proper after satisfying their curiosity. 

Modern Santa Fe stands on the other side of the little 
dividing river, although much that is characteristically 
Mexican is mingled with it. The lower part of San Fran- 
cisco Street is almost wholly lined by adobe structures, 
and its throng is a motley composition of Indians, Mexi- 
cans, and brisk business men of a different extraction. 
This was the scene of the transition period, of whose high 
romance chapters might be written if space permitted. 
The old Mexican town of prodigious mercantile impor- 
tance as a receiving and distributing point was sapped by 
the diversion of traffic which naturally followed from 
railroad construction through the Territory. The exu- 
berance of that era, when it was a central depot for over- 
land caravans and stages, no longer pertains to Santa Fe, 
although it is an active and growing city. 

At the side of the plaza stands the Palace, as old as 
Santa Fe itself, in which has been the home and office of 



90 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

every Governor of New Mexico since the first viceroy. 
Before the rebellion of 1680 the Holy Inquisition, Santo 
Oficio^ held its functions there, and in the plaza in front of 
its placid walls many a Pueblo Indian has been executed. 
In the first decade of this century Lieut. Zebulon M. Pike, 
the explorer, was brought into its executive chamber to 
give an account of himself to Spanish authority, neither 
party dreaming that the United States would so soon pre- 
side there. At least, if Pike dreamed it he was very dis- 
creet, and after being detained for some months by a form 
of hospitality which was understood on both sides to be 
captivity courteously disguised, he w^as allowed to depart. 
A portion of the palace is now occupied by the collec- 
tions of the historical society, which include innumerable 
archaeological and historical treasures. 

The Rosario Chapel, erected by Diego de Vargas, in 
pious gratitude for his victory over the Pueblos, is another 
antiquity. It stands upon an eminence nearly a mile 
from the heart of the city, where Vargas first looked 
down, with his little army, upon the town from which his 
countrymen had been repulsed for twelve years. By its 
side is the modern Ramona Indian school. 

The Cathedral of San Francisco and the churches of 
Our Lady of Guadalupe and Our Lady of Light contain 
ancient paintings and wood-carvings, and the Territorial 
Library possesses the old Spanish records. 

The penitentiary and Fort Marcy are other Govern- 
ment institutions located at Santa Fe. 

Besides the Ramona school, the St. Catherine school and 
Dawes Institute are educational institutions for Indians. 

Santa Fe Cailon, Monument Rock (on the border of the 
Pecos National Park), and the pueblos of Tesuque and 
Nambe are near objects of interest. 

Intermediate Stations: Galisteo, Ortiz. 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 97 

Los Cerrillos. — Eighteen miles beyond Lamy. 

This is the location of large mines of both anthracite 
and bituminous coal. There are valuable gold mines in 
the vicinity, one of which, the Lincoln Lucky, shipped 
200 car-loads of ore in 1892. There are also copper and 
turquoise mines. 

Intermediate Stations: Waldo, Rosario. 

Wallace. — Chicago, 1,340 miles; St. Louis, 1,200 miles; Los 
Angeles, 925 miles; San Diego, 1,008 miles; San Francisco, 1,237 
miles. Altitude, 5,263 feet. Population, 124. 

The pueblo of San Domingo lies at a distance of two 
or three miles on the other side of the Galisteo River, and 
can very conveniently be reached from this station, 
although it is usually included among the sights of the 
vicinity of Santa Fe. 

San Domingo does not, however, rank high among the 
pueblos as an object of interest. The greater pueblos lie 
farther on along our route. The yearly feasts and rites of 
these strange people are, nevertheless, of great interest, 
regardless of the relative imimportance of the pueblo, and 
upon such occasions many New Mexicans flock together 
from immediately neighboring towns to witness the spec- 
tacle. 

At Wallace the Galisteo joins the Rio Grande, and you 
fairly enter the great valley, whose course is followed as 
far as Albuquerque. 

Mexican villages are plentifully strewn by the way. 
The life of the inhabitants of these villages is very simple 
and placidly happy. It goes on undisturbed by any of the 
changes that occur in what we call the world. There are 
births, and weddings, and deaths; that is the summary 
of exciting events. There are no lawyers or doctors, 
nor any politics. The only scholar is the priest. They 
7 



98 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

have no theories; they try no experiments; and they 
often live to a very old age. But they are not barbarians. 
They possess an easy courtesy, a perfect understanding of 
even the statelier forms of politeness that is an inherit- 
ance with them, an integral part of the Spanish blood 
which, to a greater or less degree, flows in their veins. 

Intermediate Stations: Elota, Algodones, Bernalillo, 
Alameda. 

Albuquerque.— Chicago, 1,377 miles; St. Louis, 1,237 miles; 
Los Angeles, 888 miles; San Diego, 971 miles; San Francisco, 1,200 
miles. Junction with Atlantic & Pacific Railroad. Altitude, 4,950 
feet. Population, 5,518. 

Metropolis of the upper Rio Grande Valley. Here, as at 
Sante Fe, there are two towns. In the old town, which lies 
a mile and a half from the new, there is a population of over 
1,700. It contains an ancient cathedral and many interest- 
ing relics of old Spanish and Mexican days. The new- 
town is only a dozen years old, having been founded in 
1880. 

Albuquerque lies in a lovely part of the valley, midway 
between the sightly Sandia Mountains on the east and a 
volcanic range on the west. Its neighboring attractions 
are the Coyote Mineral Springs, several small Mexican 
communities, and the pueblo of Isleta, besides numerous 
resorts in the mountains, all reached by enjoyable drives 
over excellent roads. There are many orchards and vine- 
yards. It is an active business center, its immediate com- 
mercial sway extending over an area larger than New 
England. Besides the railroad machine-shops, there are 
two foundries, three flouring mills, a brewery, and an ice 
factory employing half a thousand men, and a score of 
smaller concerns engaged in manufacture. 

Among its public institutions are included the Univer- 
sity of New Mexico, a Government Indian school, a 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 99 

Methodist college, the Southwestern Academy of the 
New West Education Commission, and St. Vincent's 
(Catholic) Academy. It has four large public school 
buildings, eleven churches, a free public library, and a 
commercial club. 

Isleta. — Altitude 4,898 feet. 

This pueblo lies a short distance north of A. & P. 
Junction, in plain view from the train. By necessity of 
train schedules, the through California passenger com- 
monly passes it in the obscurity of the night. It is a fair 
sight, a huge rectangular terraced pile gleaming white in 
the sun, the peaks of numerous rough ladders showing in 
sharp relief. If the train were to pass in the day-time a 
few comely Indian maidens and a shriveled squaw or two 
would be on hand at the stopping-place to offer wares for 
sale, but otherwise the Pueblo Indian does not appear to 
pay much attention to the presence of the Caucasian. 
Doubtless he has his quiet joke, and a confident sense of 
superiority, but he is not curious. Of the outer world he 
knows little. He is mildly but exclusively engrossed in 
his own affairs. The daily presence of that disturbing 
factor, the railroad, does not affect the profound inertia of 
his type. 

There are some twenty inhabited Pueblo villages in 
New Mexico, all in the northwestern division, with an 
aggregate population of about 8,000, comprising five 
tribal stocks, each of which possesses a distinct language: 
Queres, Tiguas, Tehuas, Zunis, and Jemez. The Moqui 
villages are in Arizona. Up to the time of the Spanish 
conquest the Pueblo Indians were in the habit of occa- 
sionally changing their abode, and there are in New 
Mexico the ruins of hundreds of stone pueblos so aban- 
doned. The Spaniards allotted them reservations of land 



100 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

surrounding the sites upon which they were found, which 
were subsequently confirmed by the United States Govern- 
ment, and by that act they were permanently fixed in that 
place. 

Isleta is Tigua. Its reservation contains a little more 
than 110,000 acres, and agriculture and fruit raising are 
very profitably followed by this community, which in a 
single year manufactures a thousand barrels of wine and 
sells thousands of dollars' worth of fruits. Pottery is pur- 
chased from the people of smaller pueblos, and blankets 
from the Navajoes, experience having taught these thrifty 
Tiguas that their own time can be more profitably 
employed in tilling the soil. The largest business con- 
trolled by any woman in New Mexico is here managed by 
an Indian woman of Isleta. 

The Pueblo Indians are generally well-to-do, and many 
are possessed of considerable wealth. The costumes of 
the women are often quite costly. 

Atlantic & Pacific Junction.— Chicago, 1,390 miles; St. 
Louis, 1,250 miles; Los Angeles, 875 miles; San Diego, 958 miles; 
San Francisco, 1,187 miles. Altitude, 4,891 feet. 

Point of divergence via the Atlantic & Pacific Railroad, 
from the line which continues on down the Rio Grande 
Valley to El Paso, whence the Mexican Central proceeds 
to the City of Mexico. A few miles north of El Paso, at 
Rincon, the Santa Fe Route branches off again and con- 
tinues through Deming, Benson, and Nogales to Guaymas, 
on the coast of the Gulf of California, in Sonora, Mexico. 

Atlantic & Pacific Junction is the actual point of 
divergence, but Albuquerque is the nominal point, where 
connection of trains is made. 

Intermediate Stations: Luna, Rio Puerco, San Jose, 
El Rito. 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



101 



Lag-una.— Chicago, 1,443 miles; St. Louis, 1,303 miles; Los 
Angeles, 822 miles; San Diego, 905 miles; San Francisco, 1,134 
miles. Altitude, 5,786 feet. Population (Indian), 1,140. 

The youngest of the pueblos, originally recruited from 
Acoma, Zuni, Zia, and Cochiti, in 1699. The train runs 
directly past it, affording a most excellent opportunity to 
the traveler of seeing one of these picturesque village 
habitations at close range. 

It is perched upon a sterile hill, in a compact cluster. 
This form of habitation, it should be remembered, is not 
a freak of fancy, but the 
outcome of the needs of 
an harassed but far from 
timid people. It is a fort- 
ress, and the entrance by 
way of a ladder to the roof ^f/ffp\{i 
was a part of the defensive , ' W 'J 
plan. From time imme- 
morial the Pueblo Indians 
have been surrounded by 
enemies — Apaches, Nava- 
joes, and the like — all no- 
mads and robbers by na- 
ture. The Indians of the 
pueblos were very much unlike their foes; they were not 
predatory; they tilled the soil; they provided thriftily 
against future needs; and in consequence they always 
had something in their possession to tempt the cupidity 
of the Bedouin wanderers of mountain and plain. Such 
possessions they could not afford to abandon, and they 
were too brave to surrender them; hence the evolution of 
the terraced house. 

These people work some arable watered land near by, 
and the children are usually out on the plain tending 




SITTING IN THE SUN. 



103 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

sheep. Little black-eyed, cotton-clad urchins may be 
seen among the rocks upon either side of the pueblo, and 
very modest comely maidens occasionally come down to 
the train to avail of an opportunity to make profitable 
disposition of pottery odds and ends. The traveler may 
thus procure a memento which, as such, is fairly worth its 
price; but as a specimen of the Indian's ornamental art in 
pottery it is usually quite inferior. 

Cubero. — Six miles beyond Laguna. Altitude, 5,924 feet. Pop- 
ulation, 418. Point of departure for Acoma pueblo. 

AcoMA. — Pueblos are much alike in structure and gen- 
eral appearance. Their individual interest is derived from 
natural environment and historical or legendary associa- 
tion. It is by virtue of both these distinctions that Acoma 
has become known to fame as the most poetic of all the 
pueblos, if not of all human habitations on this continent. 
The most practicable way of access is by wagon from 
Cubero, the distance being thirteen miles, although it is 
possible to go from Laguna or McCarty's. The first view 
of the valley of Acoma is from the summit of a divide 
which breaks suddenly down to its level. It is a scene of 
extraordinary, almost unearthly, beauty; a long, broad, 
steep-walled basin, carpeted with grass and green with 
growing crops, in autumn flaming with yellow blossom- 
ing thickets, and bordered by cliffs and quaintly eroded 
columns, buttes, and obelisks of red, yellow, green, and 
brown sandstone, the shadows of the towering peak of 
Los Pelones, above the horizon, marked in violet and 
amethystine hues. 

In the midst stands the rock-flanked mesa which is sur- 
mounted by the pueblo of Acoma, a monolith that rises 
350 feet above the floor of the valley, with a fairly level 
top at least a hundred acres in extent. The steep cliff 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 103 

sides of the mesa guard the pueblo more effectually than 
would cannon or an intrenched army. Numerous trails, 
feasible for a tribe of Indians that for imnumbered centu- 
ries has been bred to daily familiarity with such vertigi- 
nous passages, scale the rock, but only three may be safely 
attempted by a white man. One of these, constructed in 
recent years, is practicable for horses; that is to say 
Western horses. The other two are arduous enough to 
tax the address and endurance of the average mountaineer. 

The inhabitants of Acoma are of the tribe of Queres. 
The pueblo is not a single structure, but is built upon 
three parallel streets running north and south, the houses, 
except in one instance, fronting the east. They are con- 
nected, and present the appearance of long terraces of 
three gigantic stone steps, the second and third stories 
being commonly reached by way of a ladder and the 
intervening roofs, although there are now occasional 
doors in the lowermost story. Partition walls project at 
intervals of twelve or fifteen feet. Brightly decorated 
tinajas^ or water- jars, are placed aesthetically here and 
there upon the roofs, and the chimneys are of pottery. 
Everybody is cleanly clad in white cotton and a blanket 
of gaudy hue, with leggings and moccasins, and a brilliant 
turban bound about the hair. All Indians are adepts in 
sign-language, and among the Queres a conventional code 
of signs, conveyed by the peculiar disposition of the knot 
of the turban, is in vogue. 

Three milea down the valley from Acoma stands a mag- 
nificent lone rock, nearly twice its height. This is the Mesa 
Encantada, or Haunted Mesa. Many centuries ago, accord- 
ing to the Queres tradition, they dwelt upon that summit, 
to which a single trail of prodigious difficulty gave access. 
The entire face of the cliff which gave this solitary foot- 
ing was undermined by an inundation, and fell upon the 



104 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



plain one day when every inhabitant except three old 
women was at work in the fields below. The mesa was 
rendered absolutely unscalable by the falling of the cliff, 
and those unfortunates perished of starvation within 
hearing of the lamentations of their kindred. After that 
catastrophe the present site was built upon, and in time 
the old table-rock came to be regarded as encantada^ 
haunted by the spirits of the three ill-fated women. 

It was the present pueblo that the Spaniards discovered 
in 1539, and even then the story of Mesa Encantada was a 




AN UNPROGRESSIVE GRANGER. 

very ancient legend. The Queres did not get on well with 
their Castilian conquerors. They were at first disposed to 
treat them as belonging to a supernatural order of beings, 
but that illusion soon passed. A party of soldiers was 
decoyed upon the mesa and massacred, and Lieutenant de 
Zaldivar was sent by Onate to administer punishment. 
In single file some fifty of those astonishing soldiers of 
Spain clambered upon the mesa and fought hand to hand 
for three days with the Queres, and conquered them. 
That was in January, 1599. At the time of the memorable 
uprising, August, 1680, a Franciscan church had long been 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 105 

established at Acoma. The Pueblo tribes are by nature 
a religious people. Everything has to them some religious 
meaning or mystical association, even their gambling 
being preceded by an invocation. But the fact that mis- 
sionaries were not spared in the general massacre of Span- 
iards indicates that their adoption of the Catholic faith was 
only superficial. The church was rebuilt nearly two hun- 
dred years ago, and is an immense structure, with walls 60 
feet high and 7 feet thick. It has timbers 40 feet long 
and more than a foot square, which, together with every- 
thing else in Acoma, was brought on the backs of the 
Queres up the trails from the plain below, at cost of 
incredible labor lasting through many years. The reser- 
vation contains nearly 96,000 acres. 

Lava Beds. — For several miles in this region, lava 
beds lie on either hand, like the flow of a river. The 
craters are all extinct long since, although the eruptions 
frequently present the appearance of comparatively recent 
occurrence. The cinder cones near Flagstaff, in Arizona, 
wear a strikingly fresh look, some of those symmetrical 
black ash-heaps being almost bare of tree or twig, but it is 
in the very crater summits of such cones that the cave- 
dwellings are found, and they are admittedly prehistoric. 
Yet you will sink to your ankles in volcanic sand and 
gravel-cinder in climbing the slopes. Doubtless centuries 
have elapsed since this lava stream oozed from a fissure 
in the plain, and since the neighboring mountain-craters, 
which you may see from the car window, fired the sky 
with their glow. 

San Mateo Mountains. — Northward from Grant's, a 
station thirty miles beyond Laguna. 

Intermediate Stations: McCarty's, Grant's, Blue- 
water, Chaves, Mitchell, Summit. 



106 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

Coolidge. — Chicago, 1,513 miles; St. Louis, 1,373 miles; Los 
Angeles, 752 miles; San Diego, 835 miles; San Francisco, 1,064 miles. 
Altitude, 6,996 feet. Dining station. 

Continental Divide. Henceforward the rivers flow 
toward the west. 

For several miles, on the north side of the track, is to 
be seen a line of red and gray palisades, the work of water. 
Here and there the face is marked by a long and narrow 
streak of white; sometimes there is a coping of green, 
and occasionally an isolated mass stands out in the plain. 

Wingate. — Ten miles beyond Coolidge. Altitude, 6,736 feet. 
Point of departure for Zuni pueblo. 

Fort Wingate, with a garrison of soldiers, lies within 
sight, three miles distant upon the south. Close beside it 
stands the curious cathedral-shaped rock upon which the 
name " Navajo Church " has been bestowed, in recogni- 
tion of its suggestive appearance. 

The pueblo of Zuiii lies about forty miles south from 
Wingate. The reservation contains more than 215,000 
acres. The pueblo is a five-story bee-hive, in pyramidal 
form, with clustering detached blocks. 

The Zunis number nearly 600. This is the tribe that 
was brought into especial prominence by Mr. Frank Cush- 
ing, who, as agent of the Smithsonian Institution, dwelt a 
long time among them, and upon one occasion conducted 
a number of their chief men on a tour of the Eastern 
cities, where they attracted no little attention, and doubt- 
less since their return have been regarded as unconscion- 
able liars, because of attempting to pass off stories of the 
white man's astonishing civilization as true. 

Like all the Pueblo tribes, the Zuiiis are industrious 
and courageous. They are rich in folk-lore and fanciful 
tradition. They sing, dance, and frolic in the intervals of 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



107 



labor. They are complex and ceremonious in religion, 
and are fond of secret societies. And the moral atmos- 
phere of their community will bear favorable comparison 
with almost any community of the same size among the 
Caucasians. Other pueblos, however, are more cleanly 
than Zufii. 

Gallup. — Twenty-two miles beyond Coolidge. Altitude, 6,498 
feet. 

Location of the coal mines from which the Atlantic & 
Pacific Railroad draws its supply. 
Intermediate Station: Defiance. 

Manuelito. — Thirty-eight miles beyond Coolidge. Altitude, 
6,252 feet. Near the Arizona boundary. 

One who de- 
sired to visit the 
cailons of the Rio 
de Chelly, with 
their remarkable 
cliff ruins, the ex- 
ploration of which 
has been restricted 
to casual inspec- 
tion by Govern- 
ment employes up 
to the present time, 
could make the 
journey from this 
point by way of 
Fort Defiance. It 
is to be hoped that 
special facilities will yet be provided to make this trip 
practicable for tourists. The celebrated portions of the 
Caiion de Chelly lie at a distance of upward of fifty miles 




A MEXICAN FIREPLACE. 



108 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

north from Manuelito, and special arrangements would 
have to be made in advance by an intending visitor. It 
is mentioned here, in passing, merely as one of the marvels 
of this region, of whose existence, not to say whose feat- 
ures, comparatively few outside of scientific circles are 
aware. 

ARIZONA. 

Historical. — Here, as in New Mexico, are monuments 
of an ancient and mysterious people, but the pueblos, and 
possibly the cliff dwellings, are antedated by ruins of a 
semi-civilization which waxed and waned many centuries 
ago. That a multitude long vanished once dwelt in this 
titanic land is evidenced by the ruins of irrigating canals 
of enormous extent found in the southern part of the Ter- 
ritory. They were scientifically constructed by human 
hands, and utilized for the maintenance of hundreds of 
thousands of human beings. So much and no more is 
known. The throngs that populated the valleys have dis- 
appeared as mysteriously as have the Hittites, who are 
mentioned as a powerful nation in Holy Writ and in ancient 
hieroglyphs, but appear to have left no record beyond that 
casual contemporaneous reference. Casa Grande, also in 
the southern part, below Phoenix, which was an abandoned 
shell when the country was first invaded by the Spaniards, 
is regarded as a former habitation of the people of the 
Salt and Gila River valleys, and the excavations recently 
begun there are said to give promise of rich archaeological 
treasure. 

The antiquities of the northern portion are the cliff 
dwellings. Scores of these have been found, perched high 
on the steep walls of canons and on the hill-tops that rise 
above the level of the broad arid plateaus. The builders 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 109 

of these, too, had vanished before the Spaniards came, 
only the Moquis, dwelling in their pueblos far to the north, 
and the wandering- Apaches and Pimas, being left to 
represent mankind in all this wide land. 

The world is a pretty ancient dust heap, wherever you 
may choose to stand, and written history is a serial story 
of which all save the last two or three chapters is missing; 
but a hiatus exists in Arizona that is not commonly brought 
so sharply to the sense. The impressive thing is not that 
it was anciently inhabited, for we have learned something 
from the mounds of Ohio and elsewhere about the antiq- 
uity of human life on our continent, but that oblivion 
should have covered these people like a wave, and for 
centuries these valleys, and plains, and canons should have 
remained desolate, where once was an animated multitude 
— this gives the air of tragic romance. 

The history of Arizona, like its topography, is con- 
vulsed, rent, gashed, whole volumes missing. It begins 
intelligibly with Marcos de Nizza, in 1539, for this was the 
route of the original northward exploration from Mexico. 
For more than two centuries after the Spanish discovery 
Arizona was a part of New Mexico, but the portion in- 
cluded in the present Territory was crossed and recrossed 
by those tireless world conquerors. The first settlement 
was made in 1685, in the neighborhood of Tucson. The 
missionaries then began their work of civilization, and 
mining and agriculture were undertaken in the face of 
Apache hostilit}^ The suppression of the missions by 
Mexico early in our century practically surrendered the 
country to the Apaches, who promptly annihilated what 
remained of Spanish enterprise. 

The acquisition of New Mexico by the United States, 
in 1848, included all of Arizona north of the Gila River; 
the remainder was purchased from Mexico, in 1853, for 



110 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

the sum of $10,000,000. The Territory of Arizona was 
created by Congress in 1863, and its first government was 
organized at Navajo Springs in December of that year. 
Shortly thereafter the capital was removed to Whipple 
Barracks, thence to Prescott, thence to Tucson, again to 
Prescott, and finally to Phoenix. 

The bane of Arizona has been the Apache. He proved 
a well-nigh untamable wild man, as fierce and wary as 
the puma that still dwells in the mountains. He was 
destruction incarnate and a name of terror. He has at 
last been subdued and banished within a very few years, 
and, in consequence, upon this land the sunrise of prosper- 
ity is just breaking. 

Descriptive. — It is a land of high plains, rich valleys, 
pine parks, wide terraces, towering mountains, tremendous 
chasms, burnt-out volcanoes, lava-beds, deserts, painted 
rocks, mesas and buttes; aglow with color, overhung by an 
arch of deepest blue, enwrapped by a pure, cool, rarefied 
air, and encompassed by silence and a sense of immeasur- 
able vastness. It is a marvel of geological revelation. 
The unparalleled gashes that rend the earth's crust per- 
pendicularly more than a mile deep and many hundred 
miles long, as in the Grand Canon of the Colorado, exhibit 
the rock series all the way down to the primitive forma- 
tions. In ancient times that the geologist wots of, it was 
alternately the bed of salt and fresh water seas of vast 
extent, and although the sand-blast has carved curious 
shapes of stone, the mark of water is everywhere. Its 
erosion is traceable on the cliffs and in the canons, which 
latter are largely due to its action. It has washed rock 
strata thousands of feet thick from the surface of thou- 
sands of square miles, and swept the detritus away to some 
distant ocean bourne. And as if by way of reprisal, water 
is now the scarcest commodity known in the greater part 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. Ill 

of Arizona. A living spring is a coveted treasure. A con- 
stant stream is better than a gold mine, if it can be availed 
of for irrigation. 

In altitude it ranges from below sea level, on the south, 
to 13,000 feet above. Its actual dimensions are about 380 
by 320 miles, embracing 113,020 square miles; the total 
population of a little more than 60,000 being restricted to 
small areas separated by wide untouched intervals. These 
intervals consist of mountain ranges, rich in mineral, of 
pine parks of magnificent timber, of rich valleys awaiting 
irrigation, of open tracts too arid for agriculture but valu- 
able for grazing, and of genuine desert. 

The deserts of Arizona, however, are neither monoto- 
nous nor lifeless. They are most emphatic in character in 
the southern portion of the Territory, yet even there 
picturesque and beautiful plant life is not wanting. The 
saguaro cactus (Cereiis giganteus) is plentiful there, tower- 
ing to a height of from thirty to sixty feet. Its diameter, 
whose maximum is about two feet, is nearly as great at 
the summit as at the base, and its fluted column, some- 
times but not always branching, is of a deep green color, 
and is protected by innumerable stout spines. It is 
crowned by clusters of showy white flowers, and the fruit 
is red, containing saccharine and vinous qualities. This 
saguaro cactus grows, in proximity to water, at the rate 
of a foot per annum, but in the driest regions only a twelfth 
as fast. Yet even there it yields, on puncturing, a gener- 
ous flow of water, somewhat unpalatable, but sufficient to 
quench the thirst of a needy traveler; and its pulpy part 
is edible. The echina cactus has a short, thick trunk, 
surmounted by yellow or crimson flowers. The cucum- 
ber cactus is fiercely thorny, with large crimson flowers 
and a fruit which contains an edible seedy pulp of pleasant 
flavor. The choUa is a variety of branching cactus, with 



112 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 









loosely jointed limbs that easily part at the socket. Its 
thorns will pierce stout leather, and are scrupulously to be 
avoided. Another variety is the prickly pear, which is 
the most common cactus throughout the West. Its leaf- 
like segments grow without any apparent method, one 
out of another. There is also the fish-hook cactus, whose 
small spines are hook-shape. The agave, or century 

plant, and the yucca are exceedingly 
common, and their imposing spikes 
of large cream-colored flowers are 
very beautiful. The flower spike of 
th.Q yucca gloriosa runs up to a height 
of ten or fifteen feet, and sometimes 
supports nearly a thousand blossoms. 
Among the more rare desert growths 
of Arizona is a lily that blooms about 
the time of Easter. The flower is 
white, streaked with pale green. 

Of animals, the Gila 
Monster is peculiar to 
Arizona. This is a spe- 
cies of lizard which at- 
tains a length of nearly 
two feet, and presents 
a most repulsive ap- 
pearance. It is found 
only in the south, in the 
heated valley of the Gila River, and is a subject of dispute 
in consequence of the alleged venom of its bite. It has 
been accused of emitting an acrid, poisonous breath when 
disturbed, and instances are offered which, if authentic, 
show that the bite of a Gila Monster is more to be feared 
than that of a rattlesnake. But it is not abundant, even in 
its habitat, and appears, in any event, to be entirely harm- 




GIANT CACTUS. 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



113 



less unless submitted to the indignity of handling-, which 
its ferocious appearance does not encourage, whether it is 
venomous or no. 

Our route traverses the upper portion of the Territory, 
at an elevation between 4,850 and 460 feet. It follows for 
some distance the Little Colorado River, and passes 
within easy access of the wonderful "jewel forest" of 
Chalcedony Park. It passes Winslow, where Moqui 
Indians often congregate, and crosses Canon Diablo. It 
leads through Flagstaff, past the 
foot of San Francisco Mount- ja«^ 

ain, in whose near vicinity are ^^^ff ^^^^ 

the cliff and cave dwellings, and ^^^^ ; 
north of which stretches the 
brilliant and terrible Grand 
Cailon, which ranks as the 
grandest spectacle known any- 
where upon earth. It continues 
on past Bill Williams Mountain, 
threads the gentle beauties of 
Johnson's Canon, and, after 
passing through a number of 
mining towns, comes to the 
Colorado River. 

Industrial. — The mining, 
smelting, and milling of ore constitute the chief industry, 
although agriculture and fruit raising are rapidly coming 
to the front. The silver mines have proven of enormous 
value, and the copper deposits are the richest in the world. 

The lumber industry is active, and is based upon an 
incalculable supply of timber. The best quality of orna- 
mental building-stone in the West is produced by the 
Peachblow sandstone quarries of Arizona. 

There are upwards of 1,000,000 head of cattle in the 
8 







AN EARLY EXPLORER. 



114 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

Territory, although the growth of that industry in the 
past few years has been checked by the cost of shipping 
to distant markets. 

The greatest agricultural and horticultural development 
has been in the south, where undoubtedly the largest 
promise lies. The river valleys at low altitudes are almost 
tropical in character. For the past ten years nearly half a 
million dollars a year has been expended in constructing 
irrigating canals in Arizona. 

Intermediate Stations: Allantown, Querino Canon, 
Sanders. 

Navajo Spring's. — Chicago, 1,590 miles; St. Louis, 1,450 miles; 
Los Angeles, 675 miles; San Diego, 758 miles; San Francisco, 987 
miles. Altitude, 5,626 feet. 

A short distance from this station the government of 
the Territory was first organized, in 1863. No settlement 
was made, the first capital of Arizona consisting of a 
small tent encampment. 

Intermediate Stations: Billings, Carrizo, Aztec. 

Holbrook. — Chicago, 1,630 miles; St. Louis, 1,490 miles; Los 
Angeles, 635 miles; San Diego, 718 miles; San Francisco, 947 miles. 
Altitude, 5,072 feet. Population, 206. Point of departure for 
Chalcedony Park. 

Situated at the junction of the Zuiii and Puerco rivers 
(not the Rio Puerco of New Mexico, which is on the 
Atlantic Slope). The confluence of these two streams 
forms the Little Colorado, which flows northwestward and 
empties into the Grand Caiion, its own channel at the 
point of junction possessing nearly the grandeur that 
characterizes that of the Colorado proper. 

Chalcedony Park. — About twenty miles southeast 
from Holbrook lies one of those marvels of which it is the 
characteristic of Arizona to be profuse. Chalcedony Park 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 115 

is a tract some 2,000 acres in extent, whose geological 
formation is sandstone resting on volcanic ash; and pro- 
truding from the sandstone, in water-worn basins and 
gulches, or entirely liberated and scattered over the sur- 
face, are innumerable petrified trunks of trees and their 
fragments, varying in size from mere chips and splinters 
to huge segments ten feet in diameter. It is believed that 
these trees, which appear to have been a species of pine or 
cedar, grew upon the shore of an inland sea, and after 
falling became water-logged, and the cell-structure was 
replaced by silica. Manganese and oxide of iron yielded a 
red, yellow, and black coloring matter, and thus the origin 
of this "jewel forest " is plausibly accounted for. These 
logs of stone have been curiously fractured, probably by 
the action of heat and cold, in a clean transverse cleavage, 
so that they appear exactly as if they had been neatly 
sawn apart into lengths which, in many instances, form 
discs only a few inches thick and many feet in diameter. 
All this vast heap of detritus, although the larger masses 
are not brilliant in the crude state, is most beautiful when 
polished, and the term "jewel forest" is hardly a mis- 
nomer, for every particle — and there are millions of tons 
— is chalcedony, cornelian, agate, chrysoprase, amethyst, 
topaz, and the like. In one instance one of these agatized 
trees, the trunk still intact, spans a canon forty-five feet 
wide, fully fifty feet overlapping upon one side, and both 
ends imbedded in the sandstone. 

Conveyance can be procured at Holbrook for the trip 
to this extraordinary spot. 

Intermediate Stations: Putnam, St. Joseph, Hardy. 

Wiiislow\ — Chicago, 1,662 miles; St. Louis, 1,522 miles; Los 
Angeles, 603 miles; San Diego, 6S6 miles; San Francisco, 915 miles. 
Altitude, 4,848 feet. Population, 363. Dining station. 

Just before reaching Winslow the course of the Little 



IIG 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



Colorado is abandoned. Moqui Indians are frequently 
seen about the station. Their reservation and villages are 
some seventy miles to the north, and north and east of 
them lies the reservation of the Navajoes, which overlaps 
into New Mexico. Within the Navajo Reserve are the 
rivers San Juan and De Chelly, whose canons and ruins of 
cliff dwellings are celebrated among scientists throughout 
the world. 




-^'^^iK- 



SNAKE DANCE, MOQUI RESERVATION. 



Moqui Snake Dance. — The serpent is singularly prom- 
inent in human history. Its trail stretches past innumera- 
ble milestones from our own original Eden to the desert 
villages of the aborigines of Western and Southern 
America. The Aztecs sculptured the snake upon their 
ornamental stones, and the Pueblo Indians indent their 
pottery with an imitation of its scales. But most singular 
among the tributes to the serpent is the snake dance, an 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 117 

astonishing annual rite formerly common to all the Pueblo 
tribes, but now practiced by the Moquis alone. For this 
ceremony, peculiarly abhorrent to any but Indian blood, 
hundreds of rattlesnakes are captured alive on the desert. 
This is accomplished in a singular manner by reducing 
them to a quiescent state by gentle strokes of a wisp, then 
dextrously depositing them in a leathern bag, where they 
are accumulated one by one. For three days preceding 
the snake dance the Indians who intend to participate 
abstain wholly from food, and partake only of a decoction 
whose secret is known to but three individuals in the 
tribe — the chief priest, the neophyte who is in training to 
succeed him, and the eldest woman. The revelation of 
the secret of this decoction, which appears to be a verita- 
ble neutralizer of the venom of a rattlesnake bite, is 
punishable by death. The snakes that have been collected 
are kept in a little corral until the hour of the dance, 
when the participants boldly enter, and seizing a snake 
recklessly in each hand, and sometimes taking one in 
their mouths, leap into the ring and begin the barbaric 
performance of weird chant and uncouth contortion. The 
snakes swing to and fro, twisting their fat sinister bodies 
about the arms of their captors, and striking out angrily 
with their wicked fangs. The dancers are repeatedly 
bitten, but except that the priest administers another dose 
of the antidote, no attention is paid to the occurrence. A 
small local inflammation, and possibly a temporary indis- 
position after the excitement of the dance is ended, are 
the only ill effects that result. 

The rattlesnake is one of the animal gods of the 
Indians, and in their quaint folk-lore occupies a relation 
to the other animals that suggests Brer Rabbit of Uncle 
Remus, although mystic magical powers are ascribed to 
it. The dance is a ceremony to propitiate the snake-god, 



118 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



who is believed to be influential in directing earthly- 
events, and upon the conclusion of the rite all the reptiles 
are reverently restored to liberty. 

Mr. Keam, the Government agent for the Moquis, states 
positively that the snakes are neither unfanged nor 
drugged, nor in any manner deprived of the natural 
exercise of their venomous function. 

Intermediate Station: Dennison. 




CANON DIABLO. 

Canon Diablo. — Chicago, i,688 miles; St. Louis, 1,548 miles; 
Los Angeles, 577 miles; San Diego, 660 miles; San Francisco, 889 
miles. Altitude, 5,421 feet. 

The name is Spanish for Devil Canon. It is simply a 
hideous gash in the level plain, 540 feet wide and 222 feet 
deep, extending for many miles. At a little distance it 
can not be seen at all. If it were closed up the projec- 
tions on one edge would fit with tolerable accuracy the 
notches on the other, and it has the appearance of having 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 110 

been caused by a rending of the crust of the earth in 
cooling. It is crossed over an ingeniously constructed 
bridge. 

In the Harvard Mineralogical Museum is a meteorite 
of 150 pounds weight, studded with minute white dia- 
monds, which was flung by one of Hendrick Hudson's 
crew somewhere aloft in the Arizona sky and picked up 
in the bottom of this canon. 

Intermediate Stations: Angell, Walnut, Cosnino. 

Mistletoe. — Nearing Flagstaff, some distance beyond 
the crossing of Canon Diablo, the road runs through a 
park of small cedars and pinons, where on every hand 
thick bunches of this pretty parasitic plant cling to the 
boughs in great profusion. 

Flag"Staff. — Chicago, 1,721 miles; St. Louis, 1,581 miles; Los 
Angeles, 544 miles; San Diego, 627 miles; San Francisco, 856 miles. 
Altitude, 6,886 feet. Population, 963. Point of departure for Grand 
Canon of the Colorado, San Francisco Peaks, cliff and cave dwell- 
ings, and Oak Creek Canon. 

A United States cavalry corps was encamped on this 
spot one 4th of July, and in honor of the day the national 
colors were hoisted to the top of a tall pine tree, which 
was stripped of its branches and inade to serve as a gigan- 
tic flagstaff. The old pine, thus amputated, has disap- 
peared, but the vigorous little town that has sprung up 
on its site has succeeded to the name. A large aggregate 
capital is vested in different enterprises here. It is the 
distributing point for a broad country through which 
stockmen and miners are scattered. One store alone 
carries a stock of general merchandise that is valued at 
over $150,000. It lies in the midst of a beautiful pine 
park, on whose wide intervals large numbers of sheep and 
cattle graze. The great saw-mills of the Arizona Lumber 
& Timber Company are located a mile south of the cen- 



120 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



ter of the town. This concern employs about 500 men. 
The red sandstone of the Flagstaff quarries is classed 
among" the handsomest and most valuable of building- 
stones. In the quarry it is soft and easily worked, but on 
exposure to the air it quickly hardens. Portland, Los 
Angeles, and Denver have each imported from these 
quarries stone for the construction of costly public 
buildings. 

The noble four-peaked mountain behind the town. 







": u%f ^^^s^>*^%;:f^^ 



e^Nsf- \i - ^ 



SAN FRANCISCO MOUNTAIN, ARIZONA. 

Upon the north, which has been conspicuously in sight for 
the past hundred miles, is the San Francisco Mountain. 

Flagstaff is the gateway to scenes whose grandeur is 
impossible of adequate description, and to more sights of 
novelty and unaccustomed interest than any other town in 
the world. All these, fragmentarily described in the fol- 
lowing pages, are easily accessible and should on no ac- 
count be omitted by the traveler who can spare the time 
requisite for their examination. 

Grand CaJJon of the Colorado. — The Colorado River, 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 121 

sweeping down through southern Utah and across north- 
ern Arizona, has carved a series of unprecedented chan- 
nels some four hundred miles long. Midway, in Arizona, 
occurs a climax 217 miles in length, to which, by way of 
crowning distinction, the name Grand Canon was given. 
Its brink is closely neighbored by a growth of pines such 
as are seen around Flagstaff, and it is as sudden and incon- 
sequent a chasm as Canon Diablo. But, taking the Diablo 
Canon as a unit, the Grand Canon is thirty times as deep 
and one hundred and twenty-five times as wide. It is not, 
however, a mere notch. It is thronged with hundreds 
upon hundreds of brilliantly colored mountainous bulks, as 
tall as yonder San Francisco Mountain, whose peaks rise 
only to the level of your feet as you stand upon the rim. 

To convey some slight notion of the scene thus out- 
stretched before the observer, the present writer can do 
no better than to quote from an attempted description 
written and published by him after the partial familiarity 
gained by a week's stay in and around the Grand Canon 
had made such an undertaking appear possible in part: 

The beholder is at first unimpressed by any detail; he is over- 
whelmed by the ensemble of a stupendous panorama, a thousand 
square miles in extent, that lies wholly beneath the eye, as if he 
stood upon a mountain peak instead of the level brink of a fearful 
chasm in the plateau whose opposite shore is thirteen miles away. 
A labyrinth of huge architectural forms, endlessly varied in design, 
fretted with ornamental devices, festooned with lace-like webs 
formed of talus from the upper cliffs and painted with every color 
known to the palette in pure transparent tones of marvelous delicacy. 
Never was picture more harmonious, never flower more exquisitely 
beautiful. It flashes instant communication of all that architecture 
and painting and music for a thousand years have gropingly striven 
to express. It is the soul of Michael Angelo and of Beethoven. 

A canon, truly, but not after the accepted type. An intricate 
system of canons, rather, all subordinate to the river channel in the 
midst, which in its turn is subordinate to the total effect. That 



122 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

river channel, the profoundest depth, and actually more than six 
thousand feet below the point of view, is in seeming a rather insig- 
nificant trench, attracting the eye more by reason of its somber tone 
and mysterious suggestion than by any appreciable characteristic of 
a chasm. It is nearly five miles distant in a straight line, and its 
uppermost rims are 3,000 feet beneath the observer, whose measur- 
ing capacity is entirely inadequate to the demand made by such 
magnitudes. One can not believe the distance to be more than a 
mile as the crow flies, before descending the wall or attempting some 
other form of inch-worm measurement. Mere brain knowledge 
counts for little against the illusion under which the organ of vision 
is doomed here to labor. That red cliff upon your right, fading 
through brown, yellow, and gray, to white at the top, is taller than 
the Washington Monument. The Auditorium in Chicago would not 
cover one-half its perpendicular span. Yet it does not greatly 
impress you. You idly toss a pebble toward it, and are surprised 
that your aim fell short. Subsequently you learn that the cliff is a 
good half-mile distant. If you care for an abiding sense of its true 
proportions, go over to the trail that begins beside its summit and 
clamber down to its base and back. You will return some hours 
later, and with a decided respect for a small Grand Canon cliff. 
Relatively it is insignificant; in that sense your first estimate was 
correct. Were Vulcan to cast it bodily into the chasm directly 
beneath your feet, it would pass for a bowlder, if indeed it were dis- 
coverable to the unaided eye. Yet the immediate chasm itself is 
only the first step of a long terrace that leads down to the innermost 
gorge and the river. Roll a heavy stone to the rim and let it go. It 
falls sheer the height of a church or an Eiffel Tower, according to 
your position, and explodes like a bomb on a projecting ledge. If, 
happily, any considerable fragments remain, they bound onward like 
elastic balls, leaping in wild parabola from point to point, snapping 
trees like straws, bursting, crashing, thundering down until they 
make a last plunge over the brink of a void, and then there comes 
languidly up the cliff-sides a faint, distant roar, and your bowlder 
that had withstood the buffets of centuries lies scattered as wide as 
Wycliffe's ashes, although the final fragment has lodged only a little 
way, so to speak, below the rim. Such performances are frequently 
given in these amphitheaters without human aid, by the mere under- 
mining of the rain, or perhaps it is here that Sisyphus rehearses his 
unending task. Often in the silence of night a tremendous fragment 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



123 



may be heard crashing from terrace to terrace like shocks of thunder- 
peal. 

The spectacle is so symmetrical, and so completely excludes the 
outside world and its accustomed standards, it is with difficulty one 
can acquire any notion of its immensity. Were it half as deep, half 
as broad, it would be no less bewildering, so utterly does it baffle 
human grasp. Something may be gleaned from the account given by 
geologists. What is known to them as the Grand Caiion District lies 



'j; .0'>, 



vV\l.' 



.•, ,.-,N^M 







■'m%i.^^,,^su 



^2/ -'J 






A COWBOY. 



principally in northwestern Arizona, its length from northwest to 
southeast, in a straight line, being about i8o miles, its width 125 
miles, and its total area some 15,000 square miles. Its northerly 
beginning, at the high plateaus in Southern Utah, is a series of ter- 
races, many miles broad, dropping like a stairway step by step to 
successively lower geological formations, until in Arizona the plat- 
form is reached which borders the real chasm and extends southerly 
beyond far into the central part of that Territory. It is the theory 



124 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

of geologists that 10,000 feet of strata have been swept by erosion 
from the surface of this entire platform, whose present uppermost 
formation is the carboniferous; the deduction being based upon the 
fact that the missing permian, mesozoic, and tertiary formations, 
which belong above this carboniferous in the series, are found in 
their place at the beginning of the northern terraces referred to. 
The theory is fortified by many evidences supplied by examination 
of the district, where, more than anywhere else, mother earth has 
laid bare the secrets of her girlhood. The climax in this extraordi- 
nary example of erosion is, of course, the chasm of the Grand Canon 
proper, which, were the missing strata restored to the adjacent 
plateau, would be 16,000 feet deep. The layman is apt to stigmatize 
such an assertion as a vagary of theorists, and until the argument 
has been heard it does seem incredible that water should have carved 
such a trough in solid rock. Briefly, the whole region appears to 
have been repeatedly lifted and submerged, both under the ocean 
and under a fresh-water sea, and during the period of the last 
upheaval the river cut its gorge. Existing as the drainage system 
of a vast territory, it had the right of way, and as the plateau delib- 
erately rose before the pressure of the internal forces, slowly, as 
grind the mills of the gods, through a period not to be measured by 
years, the river kept its bed worn down to the level of erosion; sawed 
its channel free, as the saw cuts the log that is thrust against it. 
Tributaries, traceable now only by dry lateral gorges, and the 
gradual but no less effective process of weathering did the rest. 
Beginning on the plateau level on the canon's brink, the order of 
the rock formations above the river, according to Captain Button, is 
as follows : 

1. Cherty limestone, 240 feet. 

2. Upper Aubrey limestone, 320 feet. 

3. Cross-bedded sandstone, 380 feet. 

4. Lower Aubrey sandstone, 950 feet. 

5. Upper red wall sandstone, 400 feet. 

6. Red wall limestone, 1,500 feet. 

7. Lower carboniferous sandstone, 550 feet. 

8. Quartzite base of carboniferous, 180 feet. 

9. Archaean. 

The total vertical depth is more than a mile. 

Of the descent to the river, down the canon wall: 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 125 

For the first two miles the trail is a sort of Jacob's ladder, zigzag- 
ging at an unrelenting pitch down a steep and nearly uniform decline 
caused by a sliding geological fault and centuries of frost and rain. 
It is safe and practicable for pack animals and for sound pedestrians, 
ladies having occasionally made the descent; but at present it necessi- 
tates too hurried a scramble in places to attempt it confidently on 
muleback. At the end of two miles a comparatively gentle slope is 
reached, known as the First Level, some 2,500 feet below the rim; 
that is to say — for such figures have to be impressed objectively upon 
the mind — five times the height of St, Peter's, the Pyramid of 
Cheops, or the Strasburg Cathedral; eight times the height of the 
Bartholdi Statue of Liberty; eleven times the height of Bunker Hill 
Monument. Looking back from this level the huge picturesque 
towers that border the rim shrink to pigmies and seem to crown a 
perpendicular wall, unattainably far in the sky. Yet only one-half 
the perpendicular descent, and less than one-third the entire distance 
of the trail to the river, have been accomplished. For more than three 
miles now riding on horse or muleback is entirely practicable. 
Hance's Rock Cabin lies only a short distance ahead, where dinner 
and rest are to be had under the shade of cottonwoods by the side of a 
living spring. Farther on, the trail continues down a widening 
gorge plentifully set with shrubs and spangled, in season, with the 
bloom of the yucca, prickly pear, primrose, marigold, and a score of 
unfamiliar showy flowers, white, blue, red, and yellow, surprisingly 
fresh and vigorous, above a dry, red, stony soil. Soon the course of a 
clear rivulet is reached, whose windings are followed to the end. The 
red wall limestone gives place to dark brown sandstone, whose per- 
fectly horizontal strata rapidly rise above the head to prove the rate 
of descent along the apparently gentle decline. Overshadowed by 
this sandstone of chocolate hue the way grows gloomy and foreboding, 
and the gorge narrows greatly. The traveler stops a moment 
beneath a slanting cliff 500 feet high, where there is an Indian grave 
and pottery scattered about. A gigantic niche has been worn in the 
face of this cavernous cliff, which, in recognition of its fancied 
Egyptian character, was named the Temple of Sett by the celebrated 
painter, Thomas Moran. A little beyond this temple it becomes 
necessary to abandon the animals. The river is still a mile and a 
half distant. The way now narrows to a mere notch, where two 
wagons could barely pass, and the granite begins to tower gloomily 
overhead, for we have dropped below the sandstone and have entered 



126 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

the archsean — a frowning black rock, streaked, veined, and swirled 
with vivid red and white, smoothed and polished by the rivulet and 
beautiful as a mosaic. Obstacles are encountered in the form of 
steep interposing crags, past which the brook has found a way, but 
over which the pedestrian must clamber. After these lesser difficul- 
ties come sheer descents, which at present must be passed by the aid 
of ropes. The last considerable drop is a forty-foot bit by the side 
of a pretty cascade, where there are just enough irregularities in the 
wall to give toe-hold. The narrow cleft becomes exceedingly way- 
ward in its course, turning abruptly to right and left and working 
down into twilight depths. It is very still. At every turn one looks to 
see the embotichure upon the river, anticipating the sudden shock of 
the unintercepted roar of waters. When at last this is reached, over a 
final dowmward clamber, the traveler stands upon a sandy rift con- 
fronted by nearly vertical walls many hundred feet high, at whose 
base a black torrent pitches in a giddying onward slide that gives him 
momentarily the sensation of slipping into an abyss. 

Dwarfed by such prodigious mountain shores, that rise immedi- 
ately from the water at an angle that would deny footing to a mount- 
ain sheep, it is not easy to estimate confidently the width and 
volume of the river. Choked by the stubborn granite at this point, 
its width is probably between two hundred and fifty and three hun- 
dred feet, its velocity fifteen miles an hour, and its volume and tur- 
moil equal to the Whirlpool Rapids of Niagara. Its rise in time of 
heavy rain is rapid and appalling, for the walls shed almost instantly 
all the water that falls upon them. Drift is lodged in the crevices 
thirty feet overhead. For only a few hundred yards is the tortuous 
stream visible, but its effect upon the senses is perhaps the greater 
for that reason. Issuing as from a mountain-side, it slides with oily 
smoothness for a space and suddenly breaks into violent waves that 
comb back against the current and shoot unexpectedly here and 
there, w^hile the volume sways tide-like from side to .side and long 
curling breakers form and hold their outline lengthwise of the shore, 
despite the seemingly irresistible velocity of the water. The river is 
laden with drift, huge tree-trunks, which it tosses like chips in its 
terrible play. * * * 

Returning to the spot where the animals were abandoned, camp 
is made for the night. Next morning the way is retraced. Not the 
most fervid pictures of a poet's fancy could transcend the glories 
then revealed in the depths of the canon: inky shadows, pale gild- 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 127 

ings of lofty spires, golden splendors of sun beating full on fagades 
of red and yellow, obscurations of distant peaks by veils of transient 
shower, glimpses of white towers half -drowned in purple haze, suf- 
fusions of rosy light blended in reflection from a hundred tinted 
walls. Caught up to exalted emotional heights the beholder 
becomes unmindful of fatigue. He mounts on wings. He drives 
the chariot of the sun. 

Since the foregoing was written the Hance Trail has 
been greatly improved, and a new trail constructed a little 
farther w^est, and it is now practicable to cover most of the 
trip to the river and return on horseback. 

The distance from Flagstaff to the Grand Canon is 
sixty-five miles. Except in winter a stage runs three 
times a week, namely, on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, 
to the grandest accessible point on the canon rim, which 
is the point of view in the foregoing description. The 
entire distance is covered in twelve hours, over an excel- 
lent and romantic road, and the stage returns to Flagstaff 
the following morning. There is a dinner camp midway, 
at Cedar Ranch, and ample accommodations for food and 
comfortable lodging at the stage terminus on the rim of 
the caiion, where visitors may remain as long as they 
desire. 

The office of the Grand Caiion Stage Company is a 
little building next the railroad depot, by the side of the 
station platform. 

San Francisco Peaks. — Agassiz, 12,794 feet above the 
sea, is the highest of the four peaks of San Francisco 
Mountain, but the only practicable trail for the tourist is 
the one recently constructed by Mr. A. Doyle of Flagstaff 
to the pinnacle of Humphrey's Peak, 12,750 feet above 
sea level. The distance from Flagstaff is about eleven 
miles, and there is a good carriage-road for seven miles. 
The remaining distance, to within a few yards of the top- 
most crag, is accomplished on horseback over a safe trail. 



12,S NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

The carriage-road leads smoothly through pines and 
exquisite groves of aspen, and gives place to a bridle-path 
at the foot of a steep grass-grown slope. From every 
successive angle of the trail that climbs this slope a wider 
panorama is imfolded, and objects far out on the plain 
seem to creep nearer to the mountain's foot. Above the 
terrace, pines and firs shade the way, and the trail winds 
along the rim of a gorge where the avalanches of winter 
have torn tree and root and earth away down to the floor 
of rock. The timber line is very high, and for only a few 
hundred feet do the peaks stand bare of vegetation, 
although the last mile of the trail is taken up in solving 
the difficulties of this portion of the ascent. There are 
long doublings to ameliorate the pitch of the slope that 
sweeps far downward at a very acute angle with the per- 
pendicular. A short final clamber on foot over crags 
brings one to the top, a real apex, on which only a small 
party can find simultaneous footing. 

From this point the entire circle of the horizon can be 
surveyed for a distance of from eighty to upwards of two 
hundred miles in every direction. 

To the north, past the edge of Agassiz Peak, lies the 
Coconino Forest and Basin, and beyond them, fifty miles 
away, may be seen the farther wall of the Bright Angel 
Amphitheater, in the Grand Caiion, a dimly glowing 
splendor of colors; and thirty miles beyond that the Buck- 
skin Mountains rise above the level of the Kanab 
Plateau. 

Swinging toward the right, the Navajo Mountains are 
next seen, 200 miles away, and to the northeast the Navajo 
Reservation is visible, and the Painted Desert gleams 
faintly, like a faded rainbow. Next, the Moqui villages, 
and to the east, past Fremont Peak, lava beds, O'Leary's 
Peak (to,ooo feet). Sunset Crater, the Little Colorado 
River, and the plateau and desert for 130 miles. 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 129 

To the southeast the White Mountains are seen, 200 
miles distant. To the south, past Mount Elden, and 
beyond Flagstaff, Apache Maid Mountain, forty miles; 
Mormon Mountain and Lake, and a group of nearly a 
dozen other lakes: Hay, Vail's, Big and Little Horse, Cow, 
Deep, Long, Dry, Rogue, Ducksnest, etc.; the Mogollon 
Plateau, Baker's Butte, eighty miles; The Four Peaks, 160 
miles, and the Superstition Mountains near Phoenix. 

To the southwest, the Verde Valley, the Jerome 
Smelters, Oak Creek Canon, Squaw Peak, Granite Mount- 
ains, near Prescott, 100 miles; Bradshaw Mountains, 140 
miles, and Juniper Mountains, 150 miles. 

To the west, Mounts Kendrick (10,250 feet), Sitgreaves 
(9,500 feet), and Bill Williams (9,264 feet), and, beyond, a 
vast countr}^ wanting in determinable landmarks. Turn- 
ing from this magnificent survey to a study of the mount- 
ain itself, a half-mile ride along a lower ridge with smooth 
slopes brings you to the edge of the crater, a deep cavity 
with rugged, blistered rims, looking much like the photo- 
graphs of the large craters on the moon. The descent 
into the crater is arduous, but entirely feasible for both 
horse and man, the sides being buried deep in volcanic 
gravel and dust. In the bottom is a small living spring. 
There is no wall to the crater upon the northern side. 
There it breaks down into a beautiful canon, thickly grown 
with evergreen trees and flowering plants, overhung by 
towering side-cliffs of ruddy color, for this mountain is 
not, as was long believed, composed entirely of volcanic 
rock. Looking upward toward the distant rims, they lift 
uncouth shapes against the sky — bent and twisted forms, 
with huge orifices, like rude doors and windows, as if they 
might be the tottering walls of some ancient castle. It is 
as if you stood in some forgotten corner of a dead world, 
until again your glance falls to the refreshing green of 



130 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



tree and fern, and the bright hue of flowers, and you hear 
the murmur of the tiny rivulet that cheers them here in 
the midst of desolation. 

The trip to Humphrey's Peak can easily be made in a 
day, and is well worth the making. Mr. Doyle furnishes 
conveyance and horses, and acts as guide, for a reasonable 
consideration. 

Cliff and Cave Dwellings. — Eight miles southeast 




CLIFF DWELLINGS, ARIZONA. 

from Flagstaff, in the same park of yellow pines, are the 
most numerous cliff dwellings in the rugged, beautiful 
Walnut Canon. They occupy a level on both sides of the 
narrow gorge where the harder strata had resisted the 
erosion of water and the weathering of time, and had 
formed projecting shelves with recesses between. A 
rough wall of rock fragments laid in mortar, and extend- 
ing from the edge of the lower to the upper ledge, formed 
the front of the dwellings, which were subdivided into 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 131 

from three to five compartments. These dwellings, while 
the rooms are usually small, are numerous enough to 
have sheltered a population of several hundred, and being 
situated nearly half-way down the wall were, while not 
inaccessible, easily defended. Such articles as are now in 
use among the Pueblo Indians have been found in these 
long-abandoned habitations, and it is not improbable that 
their ancient inhabitants were the parent stock of the 
Pueblo tribes; but that is not positively known. Whoever 
he was, that ancient man, he is an interesting and sorrow- 
ful figure, for there is something very pathetic about these 
deserted cliff dwellings, perched between earth and sky 
in a lonely canon, old refuges against rapine in the days 
when the hand of the stronger was ever raised against the 
weaker. They were certainly hiding-places, either for a 
timid or a much harassed handful of people, or for the 
wives and children of warriors in time of battle. The 
dense tragic veil of obscurity that hides the history of the 
earliest occupants of our country can never be lifted. 
They, like ourselves, were birds of passage, flown from 
the common nest of humanity in Asiatic wilds, impelled 
by unrest, or driven by relentless foes, and perhaps in the 
end exterminated, leaving a few crude trinkets to survive 
all memory of the hands that fashioned them. 

The cave dwellings are north of Flagstaff about nine 
miles, by the side of the stage-road leading to the Grand 
Canon. They are the simplest conceivable human habita- 
tions, consisting only of natural caverns formed by the 
spout-holes of a crater, on the summit of a small volcano. 
In some instances these black holes, which vary from the 
size of a mere closet to that of a commodious room, are 
roughly walled about with loose rock for defense. Frag- 
ments of pottery are abundant, and appear to be identical 
with that found in the cliff dwellings; but whether the 



132 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

last named were contemporaneous, or a subsequent evolu- 
tion, has not been determined. There is abundant local 
evidence that the cave dwellings were long inhabited, and 
apparently by a considerable population. Scientists have 
never estimated the age of either at less than five or six 
centuries, and back of that the gulf of uncertainty widely 
yawns. 

Bottomless Pits. — A disturbing event occurred in 1891 
out on the plain by the side of the road to the cliff dwel- 
lings. One morning three yawning pits were discovered 
where, the day before, solid earth had been. Such ex- 
amination as could be made with the aid of available 
lengths of rope revealed no bottom, and the pits were 
named accordingly. In the lapse of time the caving of 
the earth has partially filled them, or perhaps has only 
superficially bridged or choked the ugly narrow chasms, 
except in one instance, where an adventurous cowboy 
has recently penetrated 150 feet obliquely downward, 
first securely anchoring himself by a rope from above. 
Though not worth going far to see, they possess a local 
interest. Their cause is conjectural. 

Oak Creek Ca5Jon. — Fifteen miles south from Flag- 
staff the channel of Oak Creek reaches its climax of 
impressiveness and beauty. It is a narrow, or " box," 
canon with walls perhaps a thousand feet in height. The 
clear deep pools and foaming rapids of the " creek " con- 
tain myriads of trout, which are not commonly found in 
this region, where the streams are usually of a turbid 
character distasteful to this king of small game fish. The 
trout-fishing of Oak Creek is really excellent, and the 
canon itself is impressive, in spite of the fact that the 
chaotic giant upon the north makes all others seem puer- 
ile by comparison. 

Volcanic Cones and Lava Beds. — It is claimed that 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 133 

from the first thousand-feet elevation on San Francisco 
Mountain 300 extinct volcanoes can be seen. In any 
event, upon the north they are very plentifully scattered, 
and the road to the Grand Canon leads past a great num- 
ber. Many are perfectly formed cones, deeply covered 
with black and red cinder. Some of them are prettily set 
with shrubby cedar trees at regular intervals to their sum- 
mits, appearing like the intelligent work of a landscape 
gardener. Others are almost entirely bare of vegetation, 
and the lusterless black cones tipped and streaked with 
red seem to be touched by a perpetual ruddy ray of sun- 
set light. Sunset Crater and Peachblow Mountain are 
names that were applied in recognition of this remarkable 
aspect. These two volcanoes are singularly beautiful in 
the landscape, although they are nearly as barren as a 
heap of dry coal-dust. 

Large patches of lava also cover the plain, upon the 
north, looking at a distance like the dense shadow of a 
cloud, or the desolate charred path of a widespread con- 
flagration. 

It must have been a grand, though terrible sight, when 
the plutonic forces of this vast region were in active 
operation. 

Painted Desert. — This is a weird, desolate plateau far 
distant upon the northeast. It is destitute of water or 
vegetation, and its surface is covered with isolated peaks, 
buttes, and columns of sandstone worn into fantastic shapes 
by the sand-blast. It is a region of wonderful mirages, 
in which are said to be depicted palaces, gardens, colon- 
nades, temples, fountains, lakes, islands, fortifications, 
groves, orchards, cattle-herds, and human beings. It is 
supernatural ground to the Indians, who have always 
carefully avoided it. 

The Painted Desert is visible from the San Francisco 



134 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

peaks, and the view has an uncanny and shadowy beauty. 
It is delicately colored with blue, red, yellow, and green, 
softened and harmonized by distance. 

Intermediate Stations: Riordan, Bellemont, Cinder 
Pit, Rhodes, Challender, Davenport. 

Williams. — Chicago, 1,755 miles; St, Louis, 1,615 miles; Los 
Angeles, 510 miles; San Diego, 593 miles; San Francisco, 822 miles. 
Altitude, 6,750 feet. Population, 199. Dining station. 

The name of this station was derived from Bill Will- 
iams Peak, which is distinguishable upon the south, and 
the peak in its turn is indebted to some early pioneer 
whose personality and deeds appear to have otherwise 
faded from memory. 

It is practicable to visit the Grand Canon from this 
point, where conveyance can be found, but the stage-line 
from Flagstaff is the only one indorsed by the Santa Fe 
Route, as it reaches the point of grandest outlook yet made 
accessible, and the best facilities and accommodations for 
the tourist have in consequence been provided on the 
Flagstaff route. 

Three miles beyond Williams is the station Supai, and 
beyond that for a number of miles, extends a very pretty 
and varied gorge known as Johnson's Canon. 

Intermediate Stations: Supai, McLellan, Fairview. 

Ash Fork.— Chicago, 1,778 miles; St. Louis, 1,638 miles; Los 
Angeles, 487 miles; San Diego, 570 miles; San Francisco, 799 miles. 
Altitude, 5,129 feet. Junction with Santa Fe, Prescott & Phoenix 
Railway to Prescott and Phoenix. 

Prescott, Phcenix, and the Salt River Valley 
Region. — Southward from Ash Fork stretches the Santa 
Fe, Prescott & Phoenix Railway, at the time of writing 
newly constructed and in operation to the city of Prescott, 
a distance of sixty miles, and in course of construction 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. • 135 

onward to Phoenix, a further distance of 137 miles, to 
which latter city it is expected to be in operation before 
the winter of 1894. The completion of this railroad 
through the rich mining regions surrounding Prescott, 
and through the smaller alluvial valleys to the immensely 
productive lands along the Salt River at and near Phoe- 
nix, is a matter of great import to the development of 
Arizona and to a large number of home-seekers in other 
parts of the country, whose attention is turned inquir- 
ingly toward the new Southwest. The region thus opened 
on the north to quick rail communication with the outside 
world offers much, therefore, of interest to the settler and 
the investor, and is worthy of some comment for the ben- 
efit of the mere traveler. But inasmuch as the railroad is 
not yet completed between Prescott and Phoenix, this 
somewhat wide gap being at present crossed by stage, the 
topic wdll here be treated less methodically than are the 
subjects relating to the direct trip to California. 

Immediately below Ash Fork for a distance of twenty- 
five miles the Santa Fe, Prescott & Phoenix Railway leads 
through mountain scenery, and then descends to Chino 
Valley, a grazing region, where alfalfa and small fruits 
are cultivated on the irrigated portions. At a distance of 
twenty-five miles farther on the road passes out of 
Chino Valley at Granite Station, from which point large 
quantities of copper matte (impure metal smelted from 
the ore but not refined) are shipped to Chicago and New 
York from the United, Verde, Boggs, and other copper 
mines which lie from twenty to twenty-five miles distant. 
A little beyond this station the road threads an extraordi- 
nary upheaval of granite forms, covering an area nearly 
two miles square, which much resembles in freakish char- 
acter the Garden of the Gods in Colorado. This locality, 
known as Point of Rocks, was an almost impregnable lurk- 



136 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

ing-place of Apaches in earlier troublous times in the 
history of the Territory. Whipple Barracks, a military 
post, lies a short distance beyond. This post was estab- 
lished some forty years ago, and contains a garrison of 
four companies. It is regarded as one of the most health- 
ful locations among Government posts. 

Prescott. — Distance from Ash Fork sixty miles. Altitude, 5,350 
feet. Population (city), 1,759. 

This prosperous city is the center of a vast mining 
country, in which gold predominates over other metals. 
Large herds of cattle find ample grazing in the adjacent 
valleys, and there, also, are many small segregated farms 
within a radius of from ten to twenty miles. In nearly all 
the draws of the mountains are streams, such as the Lynx, 
Granite, Weaver, Hassayampa, etc., in the sand-bars of all 
which placer gold is found in paying quantity. It has been 
claimed that many thousand men could find profitable 
employment in this industry of gold-washing in Yavapai 
Coimty alone. 

The summer climate of Prescott is delightful. Unlike 
the summer months in California, July, August, and Sep- 
tember here are visited by frequent rains. There are no 
troublesome insects. The winter is temperate. Light 
snow occasionally falls, but seldom remains on the 
ground for a sufficient period to afford sleighing. To this 
locality come, in the summer, the pleasure-seeking resi- 
dents of the more southerly and less elevated regions, to 
dwell in tents and cottages. 

Prescott is situated in the north central portion of Yava- 
pai County, of which it is the seat. It is attractively placed 
upon a moderate hillside that dips to Granite Creek, and is 
girt with pines and cedars. Founded early in the '60s it is 
one of the oldest of the towns of modern Arizona. It pos- 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 137 

sesses two public schools, a Catholic school, a hospital 
under charge of the Sisters of Mercy, half a dozen 
churches, and two banks. There are several saw-mills, a 
planing-mill, stone-cutting and ore-sampling works, and 
an electric-light plant. 

Southward from Prescott the Sierra Prieta Range is 
crossed at an altitude of 6,600 feet to Skull Valley, whose 
grim name is due to the large number of Indian skulls 
that long marked here the scene of a considerable conflict 
between the aborigines and the early Caucasian settlers, 
in which the latter were victorious. The valley is a dozen 
miles long, and affords grazing for many cattle. Placer 
gold was found in the high bars on the east side of this 
valley in 1885, the pay dirt being on the surface; but there 
being no water within a distance of two miles, and there 
in practicable quantity only in the winter months, work 
has never been extensively prosecuted, although the 
gravel is said to yield $2 per cubic yard in flat leaf gold. 
A few miles to the south is a larger deposit of better 
grade, where workmen make good wages in winter, 
although handicapped by the necessity of hauling the 
gravel three miles to be sluiced. And it will suffice to 
say that over a large area in this part of Arizona placer 
gold is not uncommon, but is only fitfully worked by rea- 
son of the scant water supply. From Skull Valley the 
west slope of the Bradshaw Mountains and the Walnut 
Grove mining regions are easily accessible. At Walnut 
Grove, on the Hassayampa River, are the remains of a 
great storage dam, which burst a few years ago, nearly 
two-score persons losing their lives in consequence. This 
dam will shortly be rebuilt, preparations being already 
under way. The area of the original reservoir was more 
than a square mile, and the water in some portions was 
100 feet deep. It was utilized for both mining and irri- 
gating. 



138 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



From Skull Valley, at an approximate altitude of 4,600 
feet, the railway route passes into Kirkland Valley, a 
basin of equal size. Here also hay and grain are raised in 
quantity, and large herds of cattle are concentrated from 
outlying ranges for shipment. 




"^N^'K^C"'- ~^ 



APACHE INDIANS. 



Bell's Canon is the point of interest next following. 
Here, more than a quarter century back, a Government 
paymaster was waylaid and slain by Apaches, thus 
bequeathing his name to the spot. Old Camp Date Creek 
an abandoned military post, follows. Just as Skull and 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 139 

Kirkland valleys are the determined distributing points of 
supplies for the adjacent mining localities, so Old Camp 
Date Creek will serve the Santa Maria region, the scene 
of rich and extensive gold discoveries in recent times; 
likewise the Hillside mine properties. 

Ten miles beyond Date Creek the supply point for the 
Congress Mine and the Weaver and lower Hassayampa 
districts is reached. In the Weaver district is the far- 
famed Rich Hill, where a Mexican, searching for lost 
horses belonging to his employer, found a nugget of such 
size and value that legend has long since claimed it for 
its own, and sets its worth at a fabulous amount. Rich 
Hill became famous for its placer gold, yielding larger 
nuggets than any other camp in Arizona, but quartz 
ledges also exist in the vicinity. There was a considera- 
ble rush from California to this locality early in the '50s. 

Twenty miles farther on is Wickenburg, supply point 
for the Vulture Mine and the Harquahala and Castle 
Creek districts. It is stated that the Vulture yielded over 
$9,000,000 in gold in former days, but is now nearly inop- 
erative for want of timber, which the railway will soon 
bring to this as to other properties which await the assist- 
ance of cheap transportation facilities. The difficulties 
attending the development of these mines will be better 
apprehended when it is stated that the lumber necessary 
for timbering the shafts has hitherto been brought from 
Puget Sound by vessel to the Southern California coast, 
thence by the Southern Pacific Railroad to a point in 
Southern Arizona on the banks of the Gila River, and 
then freighted by wagon from sixty to seventy-five miles 
across a waterless desert. 

From Wickenburg the projected railway follows the 
course of the Hassayampa through Box Canon, where the 
river is crossed, and a few miles farther on the Agua 



140 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

Fria Valley is entered. This promising valley is some 
ten miles wide from north to south, and thirty miles long, 
and is almost wholly capable of irrigation. In Agua Fria 
Valley, twenty miles beyond the crossing of the Hassa- 
yampa, is Hot Springs Junction, io6 iniles from Prescott. 
This is the point of divergence to Castle Creek Hot 
Springs, twenty miles away. These springs are unim- 
proved, and the surroundings are crude, but the residents 
of the region have unbounded faith in the future of the 
locality as a resort for invalids and pleasure-seekers. 
Many hundreds of people annually find their way to these 
springs, despite their comparatively difficult accessibility. 
There is a small hotel, but visitors commonly camp in the 
neighborhood. The bathing is performed in a large rock- 
walled basin, which has been created by long erosion 
of the flowing water. The temperature of- the springs is 
from ioo° to iio°. The waters are claimed to possess 
a distinct medicinal virtue, and are resorted to for the 
healing of rheumatism and blood diseases, and for recu- 
peration from mining casualties. No analysis is at hand. 

The Agua Fria, like all western rivers, is a capricious 
stream, sinking from sight in many places during the dry 
season, and at other times swelling to a deep turbulent 
current, which can not be safely forded. It divides the 
valley which bears its name from that of the Salt River, 
the crossing being only twenty-four miles distant from 
Phoenix. 

There is no more wonderful garden spot in America, 
perhaps in the whole world, than the Salt River Valley. 
It contains many hundred thousand acres of irrigable 
land, more than 200,000 acres of which have already been 
brought into the highest state of cultivation. It is settling 
up rapidly, and will sustain a large population. It may be 
said to extend to Yuma, on the California boundary. 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST, 141 

Maricopa County, of which Phoenix is the seat, con- 
tains about 250 miles of modern canals, exclusive of 
lateral ditches; 600,000 acres of land are capable of recla- 
mation under the present water development, and 240,000 
acres have actually been reclaimed. The largest arti- 
ficial waterway in the Territory is the Arizona Canal, 
which is forty-one miles in length and thirty-six feet 
in width at the bottom, with a carrying capacity of 1,000 
cubic feet per second. This is situated in the northern 
part of the valley, where also are the Grand Canal, 
twenty-seven miles; Maricopa Canal, twenty-six miles; 
and Salt River Valley Canal, nineteen miles, besides 
Farmers' Canal and St. John's Canal, of a smaller dimen- 
sion. On the south side are the Mesa Consolidated, forty 
miles; Highland, twenty-two miles; Tempe, twenty miles; 
Utah and Eureka, sixteen miles, and San Francisco. The 
Arizona Canal taps the vSalt River a short distance below 
the confluence of the Verde, at a point where a crib dam 
1,000 feet in length raises the water of the river about ten 
feet. Twenty-two miles from its head the water of the 
canal falls perpendicularly sixteen feet over a ledge of 
solid rock, furnishing power estimated at more than 2,000 
horse-power. A mile below this fall a cross-cut canal 
connects the Arizona with the Grand, Maricopa, and Salt 
River Valley canals. In a course of 4)^ miles this cross- 
cut canal makes twenty-four falls of from four to six feet 
each, thus furnishing an additional amount of water 
power. The commercial value of these falls is, however, 
as yet prospective. 

Concerning hay, grain, stock and fruit farming, etc., in 
the Salt River Valley, the following brief observations, 
condensed from reliable sources, will be of interest to the 
inquirer: 

Not less than 50,000 acres of alfalfa are now planted. 



142 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

capable of producing 250,000 tons of hay per annum, but 
only a small portion of this^ immense possible crop ever 
reaches the baler, as thousands of range steers are brought 
in from the mountains every year to be fattened on alfalfa 
pasturage. Alfalfa is a profitable crop, reliable and easy 
to raise. Every acre commonly produces five or six tons 
annually. It is mown from three to five times, dried on 
the ground, and by ineans of hay-carriers and derricks 
hoisted into great ricks. The price for such hay in the 
stack varies from $4 to $7 per ton. 

Barley leads the grain crops, taking the place of corn, 
which is little grown, and used almost wholly for fatten- 
ing swine. In 1893 the area devoted to barley in this 
valley was 30,000 acres. This grain is a favorite with 
farmers on account of its freedoin from rust and smut, 
and its unfailing productiveness. Barley land is usually 
irrigated during October or November, and planted about 
the beginning of cold weather. A yield of forty bushels 
to the acre may be looked for, and the price ranges from 
75 cents to $1.50 per 100 pounds. 

About 8,000 acres of wheat are planted annually, the 
local flour mills absorbing the product. Oats are planted to 
a limited extent for hay, and the wild variety overruns all 
neglected grain fields. Beets, carrots, turnips, pumpkins, 
squashes, watermelons, and cantaloupes grow to a very 
great size, and yield heavily. Gardening, however, is 
principally in the hands of the Chinese, who supply the 
town residents. 

The valley is exceedingly well adapted to breeding 
and training race-horses, no winter housing being neces- 
sar)^ and this industry is profitably followed. The cattle 
business is of considerable importance, many farmers 
finding their profit in buying the lean cattle of the back 
ranges and fattening them upon green or stacked alfalfa 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 143 

at a cost of $5 per head. Cattlemen, in their turn, rent 
such pasturage at $1 a month per head. Dairying is 
remunerative, by reason of the rich nutriment of alfalfa 
feed; and there are not less than 3,000 stands of bees in 
the county, the fragrant blossoms of the mesquit, alfalfa 
bloom, and a multitude of flowering shrubs yielding a rich 
booty to those proverbial improvers of shining hours. 

But the Salt River Valley will find its greatest wealth, 
as it has already found its widest fame, in its semi-tropical 
fruits. The orange, lemon, fig, date, apricot, peach, 
nectarine, plum, pomegranate, grape, and a host of 
smaller fruits and berries grow here in perfection, and 
some of them, notably the orange, mature several weeks 
in advance of the California product, which fact should 
give the Arizona fruit a distinct advantage in eastern 
markets. 

The area at present planted to orchards and vineyards 
is about 20,000 acres. There are orange trees in the 
valley that have been in bearing for ten years, but the 
first orange orchard of any importance was planted under 
the Arizona Canal, nine miles from Phoenix, in 1889. It 
covered sixteen acres. There are now about 600 acres 
of orange orchards, some 200 acres having begun to bear, 
and the acreage planted is yearly increasing. The fig 
orchards in the neighborhood of Phoenix are very exten- 
sive. The favorite variety is the White Adriatic. A large 
packing-house in the vicinity is entirely devoted to fig 
drying. Of raisin grapes there are thousands of acres in 
bearing, of which the Muscat of Alexandria, Muscatel, 
Gordo Blanco, Malaga, and Sultana are the chief varieties. 
The conditions of soil and climate are understood to be 
congenial to the olive, but the trees that have been 
planted have not yet reached the age of bearing. 

Plioeiiix. — Distance from Ash Fork, 197 miles. Altitude, 1,100 



144 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

feet. Population (city), 3,152. Junction with Maricopa & Phoenix 
Railroad. 

This, the capital of Arizona, is situated in the center 
of the southern half of the Territory. It stands upon a 
gently sloping- plain some two miles distant from the Salt 
River. On either hand, to the north and south, lie the 
mountains, at a distance of about ten miles. It was laid 
out in 1872. Immigration came slowly until the town was 
connected with the Southern Pacific Railroad upon the 
south by the Maricopa & Phoenix Railroad in 1888. Since 
that date the rate of increase in population has been 
rapid, until, in 1893, the number of inhabitants is esti- 
mated at 10,000. The streets are regularly laid out from 
north to south and from east to west, the latter being 
named for the Presidents of the United States and the 
former being numbered; those upon the east of Center 
Street being known as streets, and those upon the west 
as avenues. The main streets are 80 to 100 feet in 
width, and many are pleasantly shaded by large trees. 
Water flows at the side of every street, and a good water- 
works system supplies domestic needs. Illumination is 
supplied by gas and by electric lights, which latter are 
used not only in the principal stores but in many private 
residences as well. There is a complete telephone system. 
Street-car lines traverse the most important parts of the 
city. Among the business blocks the newest are preten- 
tious in proportions and attractive in design. There are 
three public schools, seven or eight churches, and numer- 
ous sectarian, charitable, and secret organizations, among 
which are Masons, Odd Fellows, Workmen, Knights of 
Pythias, Select Knights, Chosen Friends, Good Templars, 
and the Grand Army of the Republic. Also three daily 
and weekly newspapers, three public halls, four hotels, 
two ice factories, three planing-mills, three lumber-yards, 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 145 

an iron foundry, a flour-mill, and four banks. The Terri- 
torial Insane Asylum is three miles distant. 

The thriving town of Tempe is a near neighbor of 
Phoenix, only nine miles distant. This is the site of sev- 
eral manufactories and a normal school. 

Mesa City, a town of Mormon settlement, lies eighteen 
miles distant from Phoenix. It is actively engaged in the 
manufacture of cheese, w4ne, and brandy, and in fruit 
raising, drying, and canning. In 1892 Mesa City pro- 
duced 30,000 gallons of wine and 4,000 gallons of brandy. 

The climate of the Salt River Valley marks a high 
temperature in summer, the mercury sometimes rising to 
110°. It will be well, however, to bear in mind a fact 
emphasized elsewhere in this book in treating of the cli- 
mate of the arid regions of the West, namely, that the 
degree of heat shown by the thermometer does not nec- 
essarily indicate one's personal comfort or discomfort. 
To say that the agriculture of a given locality is dependent 
upon irrigation is only another way of stating that the air 
is dry and the precipitation of moisture slight. This 
means absence of humidity, which, quite as much as a 
high temperature, constitutes the unpleasantness of hot 
weather in localities where the rainfall is abundant and 
the air surcharged with moisture. The inhabitants of 
humid regions, in consequence, are accustomed to mount 
to physical discomfort in exact proportion as the mercury 
climbs its tube, and experience has taught them to asso- 
ciate misery with a high temperature. Such teaching is 
true only in the locality where it is taught. It becomes 
false under different conditions, such as are presented by 
a dry, pure, elevated air. Except in certain sunken basins, 
at or below sea level, it would be difficult to find in the 
whole arid West a locality which in hottest midsummer 
could afford the terrors which are well-known to the cities 
10 



146 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



of New York and New England. A land of almost per- 
petual sun, dog-days and sunstrokes are strangers here. 
Midsummer is unquestionably a hot season in the Salt 
River Valley, but there are few days when the workman 
can not labor with comfort in the fields. It is distinctly a 
healthful region, the death-rate being very low in spite of 
the fact that a yearly increasing number of invalids resort 
to Phoenix and vicinit}'. An almost total immunity from 
the diseases elsewhere common to children is reported. 
The county is free from malaria, and a record of two years 
shows only half a dozen cases of typhoid fever. Rheu- 
matic, consumptive, and asthmatic patients are particularly 
benefited by residence here. When the weather grows 
uncomfortably warm the mountains are near at hand and 
afford prompt relief to such as are free to avail themselves 
of the respite. 

The following is the meteorological summary of 
Arizona for the year 1892-3, based on reports from about 
forty stations in various sections of the Territory. It 
represents the average meteorological conditions for the 
several months. 





Mean tem- 
perature for 
the Territory. 


Average pre- 
cipitation for 
the Territory' 
(inches and 
hundredths). 


Weather— Character of Days. 


Months. 


Clear. 


Partly 
cloudy 


Cloudy 


Rainy.* 


i8q2. 

July.... 

August 


83-7 
83.0 

77-7 
63-4 
54-4 
43-6 

47-7 
50.3 
52.8 
61.6 
69.9 
82.0 


1.29 

1-15 
0.17 
0.81 
0.15 
0.54 

0.36 
0.85 
2.24 


II 
16 
20 


10 

I 


9 
6 

3 


5 
4 

I 


September 

October 


November 

December 

1893. 

January 


23 
21 

22 

15 
16 
22 
24 
23 


4 

4 

5 
7 
8 
6 
4 
5 


4 

5 

4 
6 

7 
2 

3 


I 
3 


February 

March 


2 
6 


April 




Mav 


0.85 

O.OI 




June 











* Days with o.oi inch or more. 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 147 

Prehistoric Ruins. — When the soldiers of Cortez 
were subduing and plundering the Aztecs in Mexico the 
valleys of the Salt and Gila rivers were barren, the rust 
of antiquity already lying upon half-buried canals stretch- 
ing mile after mile across the plain, where once artificial 
streams had watered productive acres for a numerous 
people, long since disappeared. Ri:ins of their " cities " 
are abundant, no less than twenty-six having been dis- 
covered, nearly buried with earth and debris, in the imme- 
diate neighborhood of Casa Grande, Pinal County, which 
is the most celebrated of all. In these ruins has been 
found a large quantity of pottery, domestic implements, 
weapons, stone mills and axes, bracelets, and other 
trinkets of shell and onyx, etc., and the neighboring cliffs 
are covered with chiseled and painted hieroglyphs. Stone 
fortresses and caves have also been discovered in the 
mountains, which were doubtless inhabited by the sam^e or 
a similar people. The skill exercised in the construction 
of the ancient canals of Arizona, of which numerous 
examples are found in the vSalt River Valley, is evidenced 
by the fact that the modern engineer has not disdained to 
make use of considerable portions of them. In truth, the 
new canals, in some instances, are nothing more than the 
old ones re-excavated. 

The traveler who is curious in such matters will find 
abundant material to gratify his curiosity in this neigh- 
borhood. In this instance the present writer is unable to 
contribute anything derived from his personal observation, 
and is indebted to a recently published article written by 
Mr. J. H. McClintock of Phoenix for particulars of these 
ancient relics: 

In the Salt River Valley was, without doubt, the seat of the high- 
est development of Arizona's prehistoric tribes. Scattered over the 
valley are thousands of mounds that mark where the ancients' castles 



148 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

and houses of cement and adobe once stood. Long lines of irrigat- 
ing canals led from the river to the broad plains that stretch away for 
a score of miles on either side. Occasionally there are seen the ruins 
of what were plainly great citadels, their walls, for a dozen feet or 
more, still standing, though covered with the debris of the upper 
stories. 

The only systematic and satisfying exploration of these mines was 
in 1887, by Frank Hamilton Gushing, in charge of the Hemingway 
Archaeological Expedition. This skilled ethnologist, for his field of 
operations, fixed upon a buried city about seven miles south of 
Tempe. This Western Pompeii he termed " Los Muertos," in Eng- 
lish, "The City of the Dead." The writer was at the time a near 
resident, and watched the progress of the work with the utmost 
interest. 

The field chosen for investigation turned out all the most san- 
guine could have hoped for. Within its limits many long, low, 
gravelly knolls and other elevations, covered with a rank growth of 
mesquit and sage-brush, proved, under the searching spades of Mr. 
Cushing's workmen, the debris of hundreds of houses, one and two, 
possibly three, stories in height, while the apparently natural arroyos 
that crossed the lines of these foundations were demonstrated irri- 
gating canals of no small capacity. In fact, a large city, of which, 
on the arrival of Mr. Cushing's party, not one corner-stone or trace of 
a wall could be found, was partially exhumed from the earthy debris 
of its own decay, and from amidst its now low foundations were 
gathered almost numberless implements and remains of art, from a 
study of which almost whole chapters have been deduced relative to 
the domestic, civil, and religious life of the community that once 
inhabited it. 

The number of inhabitants is beyond even approximate conject- 
ure, but the era of their residence seems in all probability to have 
antedated, or to have been contemporaneous wath, the Norman con- 
quest of England. It seems strange, and conveys the idea of great 
age, to see the roots of the largest and oldest mesquits where they 
had penetrated the chambers of these long-deserted houses now laid 
bare, but though a dozen such trees may have grown to maturity 
and fallen to dust on these same spots, the sum of their ages would 
be naught compared with the time that has been required to level 
these high buildings almost to their very foundations, and to rot 
away every trace of the woodwork which once abundantly entered 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACTFTC COAST. 149 

into their structures, save such as is left on fallen or deeply buried 
fragments of mud and plaster. Indeed, whole vessels of hard-burned 
earthenware, found by Mr. Gushing, which as bread and meat recep- 
tacles were evidently set in close, well-plastered cysts or cells of 
adobe, have, nevertheless, so far crumbled away as to be beyond 
restoration save by the artist's methods. 

The city seems to gradually thin out to the suburbs and towards 
the small farm-houses, the burned floors of which have been found 
scattered about more than two miles northeast, east and southeast of 
the citadel or temple-mound. Within the intervening two miles in 
those directions diggings were made at various intervals, and in 
every place designated by Mr. Gushing or excavated under his per- 
sonal directions, not only walls and foundations were found, but also 
valuable antiquities, by the clearing away of the debris of centuries. 

The investigations led to the conclusion that the race who inhab- 
ited these now leveled buildings were of a superior cast, were a peo- 
ple in whom industry and the instincts of government were inherent 
and highly developed. Both skill and enterprise are shown by the 
numerous great irrigating canals and ditches that lie spread out, like 
true arteries, which once carried fertility and life not only to these but 
to all parts of the valley; indeed, beyond points as yet untilled by our 
people. Their canals, one or two of which certainly exceed in length, 
if not in size, the Arizona (the largest canal of this day), indicate 
vast communities of people working under an organized corporative 
rather than a despotic system, since they were all dug by the aid of 
no other hard implements than hoes, mattocks, and axes of chipped 
or ground stone, and since the sole method of conveying earth to the 
banks seems to have been by means of wicker barrows, conical bur- 
den-baskets thrown over the shoulders, and roughly-woven fiber 
mats, impressions of the borders of nearly all of which were detected 
in the mud along these banks wherever, being near houses, it hap- 
pens to have been hardened by fire or otherwise. 

Those who have ever traced the course of any of the old main 
acequias have noticed, scattered on the banks, the immense number 
of partially rounded black basalt, or diorite bowlders, or stones. It 
will be found that this kind of rock is not in any native -deposit of the 
lower valleys. It has been imported from the distant mountains or 
from the river bed, whose cobbles nearly always were broken in half 
or otherwise shaped by the ancients and used as the chipping-stones 
wherewith the implements above referred to were sharpened, until. 



150 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

their more angular edges being worn away, they were cast aside upon 
the banks of the canal useless, save as the testimonials to later gen- 
erations of the prodigious labors they helped to perform. 

Returning, to speak of the city, the houses were irregularly placed, 
rather according to the suitability of the topography than according 
to the regularity of the thoroughfares, though considerable attention 
has been given to the latter, since in some instances they passed 
directly through, or even sometimes, evidently like tunnels, under 
the blocks of buildings. The dwellings were scattered rather promis- 
cuously, but, singularly enough, they all face very nearly to the car- 
dinal points or the compass, or, in exceptional cases, were laid out 
with reference to the central ruin or great temple mound. 

The material of the houses was always adobe, usually formed by 
hand, like large and small stones. The floors were of mud mixed 
with ashes, beaten down and sometimes burned, and the roofs were 
of the same material, supported, as is shown by many indentations 
and impressions and occasional charred remains, by rafters of mes- 
quit and cross-mattings of cane, cornstalks, or small, neatly-trimmed 
osiers, or sometimes, as in the case of the outer dwellings, near the 
farms, by simple brush, making practically the same sort of roof as 
is extensively used in the valley at present. Even, too, in the latter 
kind of buildings, thatching was in vogue, of which was seen the 
remains in one small building, consisting of quite a deposit of straw, 
twigs, and corn leaves, or stalks, preserved to the sight, though not to 
the touch, from the destructive tooth of time by carbonization. 

Water was supplied to the town continually by four, possibly 
more, good-sized ditches, crossing it at almost regular intervals, and 
connected by several smaller ones, some of which passed before the 
very doorways of the very largest group of houses. 

The active shovels of Mr. Cushing's men scooped the earth from 
a number of public ovens. They were great pits dug into the earth 
and lined with a thick, carefully-formed plastering of mud and natural 
cement, which, in some instances, having been melted down by 
excessive heat, shows slag, inclosing fragments of rock, thrown in to 
master the fire, and which exhibit a decided copper stain. The pits 
are in shape similar to an inverted cone or a great hopper, and are 
of varying sizes; one which was particularly noted was about fifteen 
feet in diameter and seven feet deep. 

The Zufiis have cooking pits somewhat like these, which in 
their language are named " Mi-ak-thli-na-a-k'o-we," literally, " green 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 151 

ripening oven caves." They are used after the following fashion: 
After heating to a high degree the walls, by filling them with fuel 
both dry and green, to the very brink, and burning, usually for 
a day or two, many of the brands and embers are hauled out by 
means of long poles, and such of the embers as remain, which are 
very considerable, are either closed in by large flat stones or covered 
over by smaller ones. Green cornstalks and leaves, or certain 
branches, amongst which those of the cedar or juniper may be men- 
tioned as favorites, are thrown in upon these stones and piled up 
along the hissing walls, which are frequently sprinkled with water; 
then corn or the other food which, usually green, is to be ripened or 
cooked, is heaped in, also being frequently sprinkled, and a covering 
similar to the lining is made. Over this stones and earth are thrown 
and the whole is sealed, as it were, with mud plastering. Then more 
fire is kindled on the surface and the cooking or steam-baking is con- 
tinued from one to three or four days, according to the quantity 
of food contained. 

The ovens of these ancients were always more extensive than 
those their modern representatives have used — evidently in an 
identical manner. By their means almost any green vegetable 
matter was rendered sweet and delicious, and by drying could be pre- 
served in palatable form for any length of time. If proof other than 
this general similarity were needed relative to the use of these ancient 
fire-pits it might be found in the fact that in them were found charred 
remains of corn, mescal, and other green foods. 

The main walls constituted a temple as well as a citadel, the resi- 
dence of the superior priesthood. It was surrounded at a distance of 
sixty feet, more or less, by a sun-dried mud wall, which was high and 
straight, originally, on the foundations, and which, though pushed 
out of shape by the growth of mesquits and the weight of fallen 
buildings, are still tolerably straight, and so thick that a team and 
wagon might be driven along the greater part of their extent. The 
space inclosed by this wall is partially covered by rooms of varying 
sizes, and there seem to have been two or three open courts, notably 
one at the southeastern angle, which were presumably used for the 
sacred dances and dramas and other public religious ceremonials of 
the priests. 

The central structure covered a large extent of ground and was 
certainly four, perhaps more, stories in height. The ground floor 
was reached in the excavation. 



152 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

The walls were thick and of carefully-formed adobes, as ^vere also 
the two medium walls and the double walls at either end, all extend- 
ing to and adjoining the great wall surrounding the whole. The 
interior walls were, many of them, comparatively thin, being built 
up of little hand-made adobes, placed while still soft between upright, 
nearly equidistant poles or posts of mesquit. Some of the partitions 
were formed of coarse cane matting, secured to the upright posts and 
plastered on either side with thick coats of mud, a prehistoric and 
most ingenious instance of " lathing and plastering." The wood and 
the matting are to-day disintegrated, dust or powdered charcoal 
alone remaining of them, but on the hardened clay may be seen the 
impress of the woven and matted work and in the walls the deep 
holes where the wooden pillars once stood. 

Though windows and port-holes have been found far up in the 
external walls, no doors penetrated them, and thus we may infer that 
the houses were reached by ladders as in Zuni to-day. Within, how- 
ever, in addition to the same openings, door\A;ays are not infrequently 
encountered. These doorways were closed in a number of ways, 
most usually by means of heavy portieres of matting or fiber, or by 
means of doors hung from spindles turning at top and bottom in 
wooden or stone sockets, and sometimes by means of flat stones 
opening and closing vertically, and fastened with heavy braces of 
wood. 

Among the many proofs found confirming the archaic relation 
between these ancient people and the ancestry of the Zuhis of north- 
western New Mexico, is the circumstance that the thick earthen lids 
of the burial urns and other vessels when found show on their lower 
surfaces the impression of a coarse, flat, cane matting identically 
such as is used to-day by the Zufiis for the reception of their sheets 
of wafer or paper bread, which mats are to-day, as they were in for- 
gotten times, used also in the fashioning of flat masses of clay or 
other plastic material. 

The same implements, too, and especially the same paraphernalia, 
were in vogue amongst these same ancient people that may be seen 
in use in Zuni at the present time. Portions of the fire-hardened, 
wooden belt looms and woof -sticks, as well as one or two quaint bob- 
bins, were found. Portions of scoop-shaped spatulae and polishing 
stones, the regular possessions of Zuni matrons (the potters of to-day), 
have also been found. It might be inferred that, like their modern 
representatives, the women of this ancient city were expert in all th§ 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 153 

household arts of the Zufiis, in the making of the fine paper bread, 
in the molding of vessels of clay, and in the weaving of belts and 
blankets and other garments, for amongst the other articles of daily 
use thus far gathered are hundreds of whorls of fine stone or ground 
earthenware, which served to twirl the tall spiked spindles on the 
winter evenings of long ago. 

Shells are abundant, more than twenty marine species having been 
found, indicating frequent communications with the seacoast. The 
small oliva (of special significance) and other snail-like shells are 
particularly common. Many fragments and complete fetiches of 
green, blue, red, and other finely colored stones, often of spirited 
execution, and many finely carved ornaments of suggestive shapes in 
shell were also found. 

Death and the dead seem to have had few terrors for these people, 
for mixed in their daily associations were the urn-graves of their 
friends and relatives and the adobe sarcophagi of their priests. Their 
worship, as shown by the sacred implements and by numerous mystic 
symbols, was practically the same as that of the Zufiis, and may be 
explained as a reverence of all natural forces personified or deified. 
Each individual of the sacred priestly or esoteric societies which Mr. 
Gushing has found existed among them, was attached to some partic- 
ular patron or deity whose protection was sought by the wearing*of 
carvings representing or symbolizing him or her. 

The priests, from fasting and from continued researches into 
occult science, as well as from inherited spiritual rank, were thought 
to have the power of communication with the invisible world, to be 
able at any time to disengage their souls from fetters of clay, and, 
having this power, it was deemed unnecessary to aid the flight 
or disembodiment of their spirits at death. On the other hand, the 
commoner people, having no such power, must needs be cremated, 
that the entire soul might be liberated without delay or even partial 
detention from its earthly tenement. This will explain why so com- 
paratively few skeletons were found. Thirty-two skeletons, three or 
four of which are those of children, and two or three only those 
of women — none the less of sacred rank — were found, each usually 
having at its head a pitcher, a drinking-bowl, and a trencher, in 
which were placed the food and drink to serve for the brief journey to 
the earliest home or council of the dead. 

Sometimes it was deemed necessary to provide vessels for use in 
the other world; in such a case the jars or cups whose spirits were to 



154 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

accompany the dead were ' ' killed " by boring through their bottoms 
a good-sized hole, or by more violent means. 

Five skeletons were found, in an excellent state of preservation, 
within the great temple mound. One of them is of a man whose 
mental powers must have been of the first order, certainly of his day, 
the skull of a man who might have been in times of war a Napoleon, 
in times of peace a Gladstone among them. With jutting forehead, 
strong jaws, and perfect, large teeth, the skull is one over which 
Professor Fowler would have grown ecstatic. Another was of a man 
who died at an age of quite, if not over, loo years. The sutures of the 
skull were, in places, consolidated and the entire dental and alveolar 
formations had disappeared. Both were about six feet in height. 

Then, a remarkable treasure, by the side of a little priest child, in 
addition to finer pottery than usual, was found, carven in earthen, a 
small rude image of a dog. This was one of Mr. Cushing's choicest 
treasures, as it alone seemed to show connection — possibly ancestral 
— of these ancients with the Toltecs and their successors the Aztecs; 
since, in the tombs of the so-called "nobles" or warrior-priests 
among the latter famed nation, it was customary to place a Mexican 
dog. Amongst the Zunis no less than with the Aztecs the dog was 
held (as is the horse now) as the type of geographic knowledge, it 
being able to return through any country and from any distance to 
the place of its nativity. Mr. Gushing attributed the historic custom 
of the Aztecs of slaughtering a dog and placing it in the grave of a 
person of consequence — "as a guide to the soul " — to this concep- 
tion. Here, whither the custom seems to have been brought, 
or whence, as he thinks, it was more likely taken, the dogs were 
either rare or their lives held in high esteem, since the figure of one 
was made to serve instead of the actual animal. 

The bones of the skeletons lay in vaults just large enough to con- 
tain the bodies. The receptacles were of clay, cemented from with- 
out. They were, in nearly all instances, placed in a corner of a room 
supposed to have been occupied by their tenants in life, and the 
floors show evidence of having been either filled in until level with 
the top of the tomb or else the tomb was built up until the ceiling 
was reached. Owing to this peculiar custom the level of the rooms 
of each story was not uniform, some of the chambers being filled 
to the depth of several feet, nor do the walls seem built with any 
other than accidental reference to the original plan of the main 
structure, at least in the upper stories. 



NEW CxUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 155 

The burial of the commoner people was materially different. In 
the first place, as above stated, the remains were incinerated; they 
were then placed in the burial urns, covered with saucer-like lids, 
miniature earthen vessels placed beside, and the whole covered 
with earth to the depth of from one to several feet. Several ceme- 
teries have been laid bare, each having dozens of these funeral cask- 
ets of all the various shapes in actual use in their day buried in them. 
The burial plats are scattered all over the pueblo, and seem to show 
that every family or small clan had a separate and convenient place 
to deposit their dead near the walls of their block or blocks of dwell- 
ings. The level of the country has, in Mr. Cushing's opinion, not 
risen during the intervening centuries ; it has, on the contrary, been, 
in some places, lowered through the action of the wind and rain, and 
many of these ancient burying places have thus been opened to the 
elements and the vessels destroyed, scattering much of the pottery 
so common to the valley. 

In none of the interments, either of the common people or of the 
priests themselves, not excepting those of war, are actual weapons 
found, merely ceremonial representatives of them, which, while indi- 
cating an elaborate martial organization and a thorough understand- 
ing of the art of war, show that the latter was always defensive or at 
most retaliative. Strictly in keeping with this are the huge pierced 
stones found near the exterior walls, which were suspended over 
portals and other passages as means of defense, while in the far 
northern towns and cities of this same people, along the valley and 
tributaries of the Colorado Chiquito, huge machine missiles take the 
place of these stones of defense, and the dead warrior-priest, in addi- 
tion to his supplies of food, water, and other appurtenances, was 
furnished not infrequently with actual weapons, and his shrine 
received symbols of the same as its most fitting offerings. 

Much the same character of "desert" ruins are to be found all 
over southern Arizona, where there existed a chance to divert the 
waters of even distant streams. 

Intermediate Stations: Pineveta, Crookton. 

Selignian. — Chicago, 1,805 miles; St. Louis, 1,665 miles; Los 
Angeles, 460 miles, San Diego, 543 miles; San Francisco, 772 miles. 
Altitude, 5,247 feet. 

Junction with Prescott & Arizona Central Railway 



156 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

Intermediate Stations: Chino, Red Mesa, Aubrey, 
Yampai, Nelson. 

Peach Spring's. —Chicago, 1,842 miles; St. Louis, 1,702 miles; 
Los Angeles, 423 miles; San Diego, 506 miles; San Francisco, 735 
miles. Altitude, 4,780 feet. Dining station. 

In the vicinity of the station dwells a tribe of Indians 
whose hillside " wickiups " are visible from the train. 
The squaws are unconscionable beggars, and will spurn 
any offering smaller than a nickel, which, by the way, is 
the lowest denomination of monc}^ freely current in the 
extreme West. 

The Grand Canon is accessible from this point, too, at 
a distance of only twenty-three miles, but the trip is 
hardly worth the making, in view of the better facilities 
and the infinitely grander view afforded by the Flagstaff 
route, except in winter, if the Flagstaff route should be 
closed. The road froiu Peach Springs leads over a rough 
way to the bottom of the side canon of Diamond Creek, 
through which it is necessary to proceed about four miles 
to reach the main canon, and then the panoramic view is 
not obtainable. 

Intermediate Stations: Truxton, Crozier, Hackberry, 
Hualapai, Berry. 

King-mail. — Chicago, 1,893 miles; St. Louis, 1,753 miles; Los 
Angeles, 372 miles; San Diego, 455 miles; San Francisco, 684 miles. 
Altitude, 3,326 feet. Population, 322. 

A mining town. Rich mines lie behind the village, 
several miles distant among the hills. The broad simple 
landscape exerts a charm no less than fascination upon 
those who reside in this region. The miners love it with 
a hearty affection, and are homesick for it when away. If 
you chance to see it in the hour of twilight, when the 
horizon seems to shed a soft aurora above the dusky quiet 
land, and the outline of the hills is sharply marked against 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. l5t 

the sky, you will feel something of its subtle, masterful 
quality. It shuts out all the feverish, hurrying world, 
without requiring any surrender of manly energy. 

Intermediate Stations: Hancock, Drake, Kaster, 
Yucca, Franconia, Powell. 

The Colorado River. — Next to the Columbia this is 
the principal American tributary to the Pacific. The 
Spaniard Alargon discovered it in 1540, and ascended a 
considerable distance from the Gulf of California by boat; 
and in the same year one of Coronado's lieutenants 
reached it overland from New Mexico. As a curious side- 
light upon the sublime guess-work that guided the dis- 
coverers of that period, it may be mentioned that Cabrillo, 
the discoverer of the California coast, in 1542, heard of this 
river, and sailed north as far as Cape Mendocino in search 
of it. In 1857 Lieutenant Ives made a lengthy exploration 
of it for our Government, and near this point, about 450 
miles from the mouth, encountered a populous and warlike 
tribe of Indians, the Mojaves, who tilled these meadows 
and made their home in this locality. They were intelli- 
gent, almost gigantic in stature, and feared by other tribes. 
They are now reduced to a pitiful and disgusting handful, 
of which enough will be seen at Needles Station, nine 
miles beyond the river crossing. The cantilever bridge 
at this point, altitude 560 feet, is the second largest in 
America. Its clear span is 660 feet. Formerly the cross- 
ing was several miles above, over a pile bridge, but the 
treacherous, shifting nature of the stream compelled the 
railroad to build down here among the obelisks, where 
permanence is assured. 

The rock spires upon the left are known as The Needles. 
The largest are taller and farther away than they look. 
They form the head of the beautiful Mojave Canon, into 
which the river at once plunges. Lieutenant Ives' descrip- 



158 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

tion of this canon, upon the occasion when he forced 
the sturdy little " Explorer " through its rapids, is worth 
reading, although no convenient means has yet been 
afforded the tourist to look upon its splendors: 

A low purple gateway and a splendid corridor, with massive red 
walls, formed the entrance to the canon. At the head of this avenue 
frowning mountains, piled one above the other, seemed to block the 
way. An abrupt turn at the base of the apparent barrier revealed a 
cavern-like approach to the profound chasm beyond. A scene of 
such imposing grandeur as that which now presented itself I have 
never before witnessed. On either side majestic cliffs, hundreds of 
feet in height, rose perpendicularly from the water. As the river 
wound through the narrow inclosure every turn developed some 
sublime effect or startling novelty in the view. Brilliant tints of 
purple, green, brown, red, and white, illumined the stupendous sur- 
faces and relieved their somber monotony. Far above, clear and 
distinct upon the narrow strip of sky, turrets, spires, jagged statue- 
like peaks and grotesque pinnacles overlooked the deep abyss. 

CALIFORNIA. 

Historical. — On the 27th day of June, 1542, Juan Rod- 
riguez Cabrillo, with two vessels, set out from Navidad, a 
Pacific Coast port of New Spain about 300 miles north of 
Acapulco, Mexico, to explore the upper coast and take 
possession of the country. On the 17th day of September 
in that year he sailed into a bay to which he gave the 
name of San Mateo. This was the bay of San Diego. 
The pilot, Ferrel, kept a diary of the expedition, and 
relates that here they saw cabins and flocks of goats; so 
it is clear that there was then an Indian village at the 
point where the city of San Diego now stands. Thence 
they proceeded northward, occasionally observing a few 
Indians in canoes, and great signal smokes on the main- 
land. On the shores of what is now called San Pedjo 
Bay they had their first interview with the California 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 159 

Indians, who manifested no little fear of the Spaniards. 
Some of the crew went ashore to catch fish in a net, and 
the Indians let fly at them with arrows, wounding three 
men. This was the only Indian hostility that occurred 
throughout Cabrillo's expedition, and next day it was 
explained by the statement that another Spanish explor- 
ing party was penetrating the interior of Upper California 
at the same time, and had killed many of the natives. 
Ferrel describes these Indians as " well-disposed and 
advanced," and covered with the skins of animals, although 
these serious-minded mariners did capture two naked 
youngsters and clap shirts on them. From this point 
Cabrillo proceeded to explore a number of the northern- 
most Channel Islands, where many Indians were found, 
who treated the Spaniards kindly. These islands have 
long since been abandoned by the natives, who were de- 
scribed by Ferrel as inferior to the tribes on the mainland, 
subsisting wholly on fish and living swinishly. 

Cabrillo's course was irregular and uncertain. He was 
a pioneer, and in such work as the discoverers cut out for 
themselves in that audacious era, the most skillful naviga- 
tor was little more than a professional guesser. Moreover 
the two vessels were without decks, and were driven 
hither and yon at the pleasure of the storm, often sepa- 
rated, and both occasionally forced to take a southward 
tack to the Channel Islands for rendezvous and repairs. 
When the winds again were favorable they took up the 
task once more. The expedition wintered on the Isla de 
Posesion (afterward Juan Rodriguez, and now San Miguel 
Island), where on the 3d day of January, 1543, Cabrillo 
died and was buried. Ferrel succeeded him in command, 
and by the ist day of March following had pushed as far 
north as the present southern boundary of Oregon. There 
tempestuous weather separated the vessels and drove them 



100 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



southward, not to meet again until twenty-five days after. 
The expedition then returned to Navidad. 

Ferrel's narrative is difficult to follow, and for the 




CALIFORNIA LIVE OAK. 

most part monotonous; but it has occasional passages that 
are full-flavored, like the following: 

Toward night the wind freshened and shifted to the south-south- 
west. They ran this night to the west-northwest with much diffi- 
culty, and Thursday at daybreak the wind shifted to the southwest 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 161 

with great fury, and the seas came from many parts, which harassed 
them much, and broke over the ships, which not having decks, if God 
should not succor them, they could not escape; and not being able to 
lay by, of necessity they ran aft northeast toward the land; and now 
holding themselves for lost they commended themselves to Our Lady 
of Guadalupe, and made their wills, and ran thus until 3 o'clock in 
the forenoon with much fear and labor, for they saw that they were 
going to be lost, and already saw many signs of the land which was 
near, as small birds, andlogs very fresh, which floated from some rivers, 
although from the dark and cloudy weather the land did not appear. 
At this hour the mother of God succored them with the grace of her 
son, and there came a violent rainstorm from the north, which made 
them run all that night and the following day until sunset to the 
south with the foresails lowered; and because there was a high sea 
from the south it broke over them each time by the prow, and passed 
over them as if over a rock, and the wind shifted to the northwest 
and the north-northwest with great fury, so that it made them run 
until Saturday, the 3d of March, to the southeast and to the east- 
southeast, with such a high sea that it made them cry out without 
reserve that if God and his blessed mother did not miraculous!}' save 
them they could not escape. Saturday afternoon the wind moder- 
ated and remained at the northwest, for which they gave many thanks 
to our Lord. 

This exploration had no immediate results. For sixty 
years thereafter California lay fallow. During that inter- 
val, namely, in 1579, Sir Francis Drake, cruising in the 
Golden Hind, stumbled upon this coast and named it New 
Albion. Philip III. heard of Drake's exploit, and fearing 
that the country would be lost to Spain ordered it fortified. 
Sebastian Vizcaino, therefore, in 1602, discovered the ba}^ 
of Monterey and rediscovered and surveyed the harbor of 
San Mateo, which, as the survey was made on the 12th day 
of November — St. James' " day " in the church calendar — 
was thereupon named San Diego, which is Spanish for the 
name of that saint. Nevertheless, the actual occupation 
of California did not begin until 1769, when Fra Serra and 

his companions came to San Diego to found missions. 
11 



162 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

The early history of California is therefore a history 
of the missions. The region was known as Alta (Upper) 
and Baja (Lower) California, the latter division corre- 
sponding generally to the peninsula in Mexican territory 
which still bears that name. The mission work of the 
Spaniards was begun upon the peninsula by the Jesuits, 
in 1697. In 1748, or thereabouts, a priest of the Francis- 
can order, named Jimipero Serra, came to Mexico with 
two or three companions of his sect and devoted himself 
to general missionary labors. In 1797 the Jesuits were 
expelled from the California peninsula and their privi- 
leges given to the Franciscans. Serra was a man of pro- 
found piety, and although fifty-six years old, and lame, 
possessed indefatigable energy. The opportunity thus 
offered was one he had long dreamed of, and he promptly 
proceeded to take advantage of it. After a short stay on 
the peninsula, Serra and his companions withdrew to 
Alta California, in 1769, and made that the scene of the 
vast missionary work that was projected. 

James W. Steele gives the following sketch of the 
beginning and end of the Franciscan missions in his 
delightful "Old Californian Days": 

There were sixteen persons in the land party with which Serra 
was. There was still another land party, and two more were to go 
by sea in two ships. None of the four parties knew anything about 
it. They were taking the chances that a part of some one of them 
would get there. A man of those times named Galvez had charge 
of the outfitting and practical part. It was to him that California is 
to this day indebted for a considerable addition to the resources 
found when, after seventy-nine years, an eminently enterprising peo- 
ple became interested. He ordered the carrying of the seeds of 
everything that would grow in Spain, together with 200 head of cat- 
tle. Of these came the herds that were afterward so much at home, 
and of the seeds and cuttings came much that is most profitable and 
beautiful in California now. There was, besides, a very complete 
assortment of holy vessels, crosses, banners, and things necessary to 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



163 



the uses and services of the church. There are even strong evidences 
that so heavy and inconvenient a thing as a church bell, several of 
them, was thought of and included. 

If the reader has any idea whatever of the country near the coast 
in South California, and of the southern part of it where it joins the 
peninsula of Lower California, and then can imagine it in a state of 
nature, covered with cactus and sage, crossed by a jumble of mount- 
ain ridges, waterless save in hidden places, and absolutely pathless, 
he can have some conception of the rigors of this tramp from Villa- 
cata to San Diego. We may remember that there was a double pur- 





-m-'/ui^ 




OLD CALIFORNIA HACIENDA. 



pose in it, the first of which was the colonization of California, and 
secondly, the conversion of those who, in the cant of that day, both 
Puritan and Catholic, were known, as by the Mormons now, as 
"Gentiles." 

At the end of the written instructions of Galvez, which were 
intended to govern the expedition, he stated, among other things, 
that one of the objects of the enterprise was to protect the country 
from the ambitious views of foreign nations. This is very Spanish, 
for the beautiful wilderness of California was then more utterly 



164 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

unknown than are now the scenes of Stanley's explorations in the 
heart of Africa, and probably its latest foreign visit had been that of 
Drake, one hundred and eighty-nine years before. 

Indeed, the only knowledge of where they were going was 
obtained from such record as had been made of the survey of Admiral 
Vizcaino, in 1602, a hundred and sixty-five years before. The two 
points that attracted especial attention were San Diego and Monterey, 
both named and described by him for the first time. Yet so closely 
was this first definite scheme of colonization and conversion planned, 
that there were orders to plant a mission and garrison first at San 
Diego, then at Monterey, and then one half-way between to be called 
Buena Ventura, a favorite Spanish name meaning " good luck." 

The expedition having been divided into four bodies in all, Serra 
insisted upon accompanying one of the land parties, and this, seem- 
ingly, for the reason that he had a lame leg, acquired in walking 
from Vera Cruz to the City of Mexico twenty years before. All the 
degrees of martyrdom seem to have been fully appreciated in those 
times. One of the ideas of the age may be partially illustrated by 
the fact that Serra never did anything for this difficulty in all the 
years after, but either aggravated it or was indifferent to it. . . . 

The present writer must, in all sincerity, state his entire igno- 
rance as to precisely where in the upper part of the peninsula of 
Lower California Villacata was situated, but the missionaries left 
there on March 24th and arrived at San Diego on May 13th, The 
party with which Serra was, however, did not reach there until six 
weeks later, and when they came they found everybody sick wnth 
scurvy, and many dead. The ships were there. One of them, the 
San Carlos, which arrived last, lost all her sailors but two. The 
San Antonio, the other, which sailed a month and a half later than 
the San Carlos, reached San Diego twenty days the soonest. There 
was some difficulty in finding the place. An age of discovery and 
maritime adventure could not furnish any better sailors than that. 
She also lost half her crew by that fatal malady, now almost 
unknown 

Padre Serra was an enthusiast. He beat his bare breast with a 
stone, and burned it with a lighted torch, to illustrate to the Indians 
the pains and penalties of hell. But neither he nor any of his breth- 
ren ever made a mistake in the location of a mission, and they are 
invariably the best locations in the California of to-day. Walking 
barefoot over those thorny miles, possessed with a burning desire to 



NEW nUTDE TO THE PACTEIC COAST. 1G5 

baptize, longing only to preach the everlasting gospel, one of the most 
devoted men who has ever followed in the footsteps of the founder 
of the Christian faith, he yet knew where the land was good, where 
the wild grapes grew, where there were roses which reminded him 
of those that in his youth he had seen in the braids of the maids of 

old Castile Serra was a man who believed. He 

believed it all. He had the original theological ideas, and all of 
them, which now seem so incongruous in a practical and doubting 
world. He knew. In all his days he never wavered in the idea that 
he should convert the heathen of California, and yet he knew noth- 
ing of the task before him. He was an enthusiast who remained so 
regardless of difficulty, or fact, or report, or actual demonstration. 
And there was, therefore, never a missionary enterprise before or 
since so successful as this. Here are some data, not given from the 
religio-spiritual view point, which was Serra's, but from the tem- 
poral one of his brethren and successors: 

During sixty-five years only thirty thousand Indians are actually 
known to have been in the church at one time, and these were 
engaged in the mission establishments, kept and lodged there, and 
occupied in profitable industries. Yet the early beginnings grew 
into establishments at that time unequaled elsewhere, and since 
impossible anywhere. There are no reliable facts showing how 
many heathens were all the time outside and unconverted. Some 
have said there were 120,000. In fact their number has never been 
precisely known 

In 1834 the line of missions was about 700 miles long, 
from San Diego northward to the latitude of Sonoma. They 
lay contiguous and adjoining. Their sites were the most eligible 
spots of the sunniest land the world knows. 

Seven hundred thousand cattle grazed on the mission pastures, 
with 60,000 horses and an immense number of other domestic 
animals. 

A hundred and twenty thousand bushels of wheat were raised 
annually, besides all other crops. 

The usual products came under the following heads: wheat, 
wine, brandy, soap, leather, hides, wool, oil, cotton, hemp, linen, 
tobacco, salt, soda. 

Two hundred thousand head of cattle were slaughtered annually 
at a net profit of $10 each. 

Gardens, vineyards, and orchards surrounded or were contiguous 
to all the missions except the two most northern ones. 



166 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

The total average annual gains of the missions from sales and 
trade generally was more than $2,000,000. This on an uninhabited 
and distant coast where commerce in our sense was unknown. 
The value of live-stock alone was, in 1834, $2,000,000. 

There was, besides all these resources, a "pious fund" in Mexico, 
constantly accumulating, which had belonged to the Jesuits and was 
now the property of these missions. It amounted to $2,000,000, 
Towards the end the Mexican government could not resist the 
temptation of borrowing from this, and finally General Santa Ana 
confiscated it bodily. 

It now appears that the Spanish government had a theory upon 
which these missions were established. It was, that after ten years 
the Indians would become citizens, living in agricultural communi- 
ties on lands secured to them, and self-supporting and perhaps pros- 
perous. They intended to use the missions to this end. The final 
acts and decrees which secularized them seem to hint at this original 
intention, and to consider the time ripe for its fulfillment. The 
present conclusion is that this theory of the capacity of the Ameri. 
can Indian for citizenship was a false one, to which there is only one 
exception in all the annals of our history. To him nothing now 
remains of all the fathers taught him. He does not remain himself. 
Through what means the reminant of him became what it is, may be 
found by reading a glowing chapter in Mrs. H. H. Jackson's volume, 
" Glimpses of Three Coasts." . . . Contemporary testimon}^ is to 
the effect that he knew about as little as any being that ever bore the 
human form, and that the padres made the most of him, spiritually 

and temporally Most commentators upon those times 

allege that the Indians were in reality slaves; that they were flogged 
and forced in the name of religion; that those outside would not 
come into the fold, and those inside could not get out. It seems 
certain that when the heroic soul of Junipero Serra departed at 
Monterey, in 1784, the end for which he had endured and prayed was 
lost sight of, and the human love of ease and gain arose uppermost 
in all minds. Thus the briefest history of South California develops 
one of the saddest stories to be found in the annals of Christian 
endeavor. It was a work wrought almost in vain. There are no 
results. There is just a splendid story spoiled, a lofty and pious life 
wasted, and the doom of a race sealed by the mere effort to civilize 
and save them. For hardly more than one hundred years have 
passed, and the few wretches one encounters, living in huts and 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



16? 



wandering through the country at sheep-shearing time, are almost 
the entire visible remnants of the thousands that blackened the hills 
to watch the entrance of the San Carlos or the San Antonio, under 
Point Loma, or who ran, scared away, when the soldiers fired their 
pieces as an accompaniment of that first mass at a spot facing the 
port where the corner-stone of a fatal civilization was laid on the 
western coast, on July i6, 1769. . . . 

More than a score of missions were established by the 
Franciscans in California, in the following order: 

San Diego, July 16, 1769. 

San Carlos de Monterey, June 3, 1770. 




A RUINED MISSION. 

San Antonio de Padua, July 14, 1771. 

San Gabriel Archangel, September 8, 1771. 

San Luis Obispo de Tolosa, September i, 1772. 

Dolores de Nuestro Padre San Francisco de Assis, October 9, 1776. 

San Juan Capistrano, November i, 1776. 

Santa Clara de Assis, January iS, 1777. 

San Buenaventura, March 21, 1782. 

Santa Barbara, December 4, 1786. 

La Purisima, December 8, 1787. 

Santa Cruz, August 28, 1791. 

Nuestra Senora de la Soledad, October 9, 1791. 



168 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

San Jose, June ii, 1797. 

San Juan Bautista, June 24, 1797. 

San Miguel, July 25, 1797. 

San Fernando Rey, September 8, 1797. 

San Luis Rey de Francia, June 13, 1798. 

Santa Inez Virgen y Martyr, September 17, 1804. 

San Rafael, December 14, 181 7. 

San Francisco de Solano, April 25, 1S20. 

In 1834 the Mexican government secularized the mis- 
sion properties, reserving lands to the Indians in indefinite 
terms. After the departure of the padres, incoming set- 
tlers deprived the Indians of their lands, and their condi- 
tion became such that the attention of philanthropic 
minds was directed to them. Before the novel " Ra- 
mona" had been conceived, Mrs. Helen Hunt Jackson 
had studied the condition of the California Indians, as 
special agent of the United States Government, and it was 
largely due to her untiring efforts that a law was passed 
providing for a division of reservation lands among them. 

Early in the second decade of the present century 
California threw off the Spanish yoke and became a terri- 
tory of the new Mexican republic. By 1846 many Amer- 
icans had crossed the plains into California, and in that 
year they rebelled against Mexican rule. Fremont, 
accompanied by Kit Carson and a handful of men who 
composed his exploring party, came into conflict with the 
Mexicans about the same time, and open warfare began. 

United States war vessels which were upon the coast 
captured Monterey, Santa Barbara, and San Diego. On 
the 6th of December of that year (1846) the little Army of 
the West, having marched from the Missouri River to 
San Pascual Valley, which lies thirty miles distant from 
San Diego, was met by a Mexican force, and the bloody 
little battle of San Pascual was fought, in which nineteen 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 160 

officers and men were lost by the Americans, who, never- 
theless, succeeded in effecting a junction with Commodore 
Stockton at San Diego. Shortly after, the Saxon con- 
quest of California was complete, and in 1848 it was 
formally ceded by Mexico to the United States. It was 
admitted as a State in 1850. 

In 1848 gold was discovered by James W. Marshall at 
Sutter's Mill (Coloma), about forty miles north of Sacra- 
mento, and within two years thereafter the fame of the 
discovery had attracted a vast multitude of fortune-seek- 
ers. When, out of the chaos of the few years immediately 
following, order was brought, the modern California 
became possible. Its development since that time has 
been no less than phenomenal, and the enormous value of 
precious metal which in the past it has yielded, and in the 
future will continue to yield, has become a minor consider- 
ation; for the agricultural and horticultural possibilities 
of the State are beyond all calculation. 

Descriptive. — The length of California, from north to 
south, is 770 miles, and its breadth is from 150 to 330 miles. 
Its area is 156,592 square miles, and next to Texas it is the 
largest State in the Union. It has more than a thousand 
miles of seacoast. In altitude it ranges over 15,000 feet; 
that is to say, from below sea-level to 15,046 feet, which 
is the height of the pinnacle of Mount Whitney. This is 
the highest mountain-peak in the United States, except- 
ing Alaska, and overlooks the sunken region of Death 
Valley, which lies directly east and not far away. 

The entire shore-line of the Atlantic coast from Boston 
to Charleston and all the area included in ten of the orig- 
inal States are required to measure the extent of California, 
many of whose counties are large enough for kingdoms 
in the Old World. It is mainly composed of mountains 
and valleys, and has two great ranges, the Sierra Nevada 



170 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

and the Coast Range. The first named fences the eastern 
border, and has an altitude of from 8,000 to 15,000 feet; 
the second is from 2,500 to 4,000 feet in height. 

The extreme north is marked by a densely wooded 
mountainous country. In the middle lies the Great 
Valley, renowned for fertility. And in the extreme south 
there is much of desert and bleak mountain alternated with 
lovely fruitful valleys and timbered ranges. 

Here are many of the world's marvels. The Yosemite 
Valley, with its magnificent scenery of forest, cliffs, rock- 
sculptures, and extraordinary waterfalls, nestles in the 
Sierra Nevada at an altitude of over 4,000 feet. Farther 
north in the same range lies Lake Tahoe, a beautiful and 
much-visited sheet of water, divided by the Nevada 
boundary. And there are innumerable passes, and gorges, 
and small valleys, between towering individual peaks and 
volcanic plains, and cones, redwood forests and giant 
sequoias. The Coast Range offers bare or tree-dotted 
slopes, dense forests and valleys of well-watered agricult- 
ural lands. 

A rough topographical sketch of California would con- 
spicuously show an elongated narrow basin, lying nearly 
north and south between the two ranges, and pointed at 
each end. The northern point is approximately marked 
by Mount Shasta, a bald volcanic peak 14,440 feet high, 
and near the southern point stands Mount San Bernardino. 
The valley thus roughly inclosed is actually about 450 miles 
long, and, including the foot-hills, from 75 to 100 miles 
broad. Northward through the southern half flows the San 
Joaquin River, and southward through the northern half 
flows the Sacramento. These two meet opposite San Fran- 
cisco and flow into the bay as one. This vast interior basin 
is, by common usage, referred to as if it were really com- 
posed of two separate valleys, which are named after their 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 171 

respective rivers. Here the fame of California as an 
agricultural and fruit-raising State took rise, and for a 
good many years was monopolized. Until about twenty 
years ago Southern California (by which is understood 
the region comprised in the six southern counties of San 
Bernardino, Los Angeles, Ventura, Santa Barbara, Orange 
and San Diego) was, except in the immediate neighborhood 
of the missions, little better than a desert. In that short 
space the southern part of the State has become even 
more famous than the northern, by reason of the superior 
equability of its climate and its better adaptability to the 
culture of the citrus fruits (orange, lemon, citron, etc.). 
The word desert, as applied to any portion of our West, 
must be understood to refer to the absence or scantiness 
of vegetation in consequence of the lack of water. There 
is no richer soil to be found anywhere than that which 
composes the Great American Desert. But the amount of 
rainfall is in inany parts insufficient to support vegetation, 
and for the same reason the streams are few and generally 
small; and in consequence artificial watering, as practiced 
in irrigation, is generally necessary, although there are 
many large and profitable fruit-growing and general 
farming ranches in California in localities where irriga- 
tion is not required. The commercial value of a large 
and permanent water supply here, therefore, is very 
great. It is the only desirable thing with which nature 
has not been lavish. 

Climate. — Within the ten degrees of latitude com- 
prised in the boundaries of California are included enor- 
mous areas of seacoast and interior desert, between 
which lie long, sinuous mountain ranges, here and there 
rising to lofty, frigid peaks, or broken by gaps, with 
numerous interlying sheltered valleys. Latitude, altitude, 
mountain barriers, the proximity of the sea, and the effect 



172 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

of the Japanese ocean current, flowing southward from 
the Alaskan coast, all enter into the question of climate. 
The State has two general climatic divisions, the line of 
separation being practically the same as for the geo- 
graphical division, extending from Point Conception, a 
high promontory of the Coast Range west of Santa 
Barbara, eastward along the Sierra Madre arm of that 
range. North of that promontory the general direction 
of the shore line is east of south, and it is closely followed 
by the Japanese current already mentioned. South from 
Point Conception the coast turns rather abruptly toward 
the east, and then bends southeastward in a long arc. 
Here begins the Santa Barbara Channel, running between 
the mainland and the neighboring chain of islands. 
Point Conception and these islands w^ard off the cool 
Japanese current from the retreating coast, and wdthin 
the channel the water is perceptibly warmer. The 
heated air of the interior valleys rises during the day, 
and induces an inward draft of air from the sea, which, 
by reason of the deflection of the Japanese current as 
above described, is warmer along the coast south of Point 
Conception than it is north of that point. And every 
night, continuing through the early morning, this air- 
current returns seaward, having been cooled and stripped 
of moisture upon the interior desert levels after night- 
fall. This pendulum-swing of the wind, blowing inland 
laden with inspiriting qualities derived from the sea, and 
returning heavily charged with ozone and the balsamic 
odor of pines, considered in connection with the config- 
uration of mountains, valleys, and mesas, is the key to 
innumerable differentiations of climate within the two 
broad divisions above mentioned. The vast interior plain 
of the San Joaquin and Sacramento valleys is entirely 
walled in between the Sierra Nevada and Coast ranges, 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 173 

except for one outlet opposite San Francisco Bay. This 
basin, thus largely cut off from the ameliorating effect of 
the ocean breeze upon the one hand and the breeze from 
the high desert regions upon the other, experiences 
greater extremes of heat and cold than any other portion 
of the State west of the Sierra. It has also less rainfall, 
for the reason that the intervening ranges rob the rain- 
clouds of much of their moisture in their progress toward 
this region. The coast has a more equable temperature, 
but is subject to evening fogs from the sea. 

It follows that the nearest approach to perfection of 
climate in California is generally to be looked for in the 
southern part of the State, that is to say, in the region 
outside of the great walled valley of the interior south 
of the deflection of the Japanese current; and if one is 
sensitive to an occasionally fog-laden air, a short distance 
back from the sea. It is, however, true that the topog- 
raphy of a number of localities in Northern California 
presents conditions which in effect are practically the 
same. 

The tourist will find this a land of delightfully temper- 
ate weather in the main, sunny, stimulating, and healthful 
at all times; a land where he can escape the inclemencies 
of the northern winter, and in summer abide in comfort. 
It has become famous as a winter resort simply because 
of its greater natural beauty and attractiveness, and its 
contrast with harsh regions of the north temperate zone 
in that season; but the California summer is only less 
agreeable. There are two seasons, the rainy and the dry. 
The rains are usually restricted to the period between the 
latter part of October, or early part of November, and the 
end of April. The rainy season is the most delightful 
time of the year, the precipitations being commonly 
separated by periods of perfect weather. At San Diego 



174 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

the average rainfall for a period of sixteen years was only 
10.95 inches per annum; at Point Conception, for eight 
years, it was 12.21 inches; at Santa Barbara, for nineteen 
years, 17.83 inches; at Santa Monica, for three 3^ears, 16.13 
inches. Inland points make showing as follows: Los 
Angeles, nine years, 17.64 inches; Colton, ten years, 9.84 
inches; Rivenside, five years, 9.37 inches; San Bernardino, 
sixteen years, 16.17 inches. It can not rain very indus- 
triously where so little water falls. But the records also 
show the average number of clear, fair, and cloudy days 
in each year, and the average number of days on which 
rain fell at San Diego through a period of fifteen years 
was only thirty-four yearly. In the long dry interval of 
summer, vegetation, except where artificially supplied 
with water, languishes, the hillsides turn brown and the 
roads become very dusty; but when the first rains 
come the grass shoots anew, herbage springs up freshly, 
and shortly the hills are buried in a tangle of odorous 
bloom well-nigh incredible to one who had looked upon 
them a few short weeks before. Whole fields are ablaze 
with the orange flame of the poppy, which is the floral 
emblem of California; violets and a score of familiar blos- 
soms carpet the ground thickly, and there is a profuse 
blooming of myriad plants peculiar to California, or at 
least unfamiliar to the newcomer, and not easy of identifi- 
cation by means of the standard books on botany to 
which he is accustomed. 

The nights, even in midsummer, are chill, and in mid- 
winter the days are spring-like and friendly. In the cold- 
est weather heavy flannels or heavy outer wraps are not 
worn, but light flannels and woolens are worn through- 
out the year. The northern visitor unaccustomed to 
California will do well to wear in winter the same cloth- 
ing that he would wear at home, substituting a light over- 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 175 

coat or wrap for a heavy one; and in summer avoid the 
mistake of being insufficiently clad. There are no sudden 
changes of temperature, but it is always a little cooler 
than it seems to be, and the winter tourist is only too 
often accustomed to overheated apartments and finds the 
interior of hotels, houses, shops, and theaters in California 
incomprehensibly chilly during the first few days of his 
stay. The trouble is merely that he has been habituated 
to an unnecessarily high temperature within doors. Let 
him keep warm, and in a short time he will become 
accustomed to a normal and healthy temperature and be 
the better for it. 

The ocean air is humid, but not heavily laden with 
moisture, as is evidenced by the fact that it abstracts 
moisture from instead of lending it to other objects. 
Meats and fish are dried for export in the open air on 
the seashore, grasses cure upon the root, perspiration is 
insensible, and water is cooled by hanging in an earthen 
vessel exposed to the air. It is a not uncommon belief 
among invalids that humidity is hostile in its effect upon 
certain diseases, among which phthisis is included, but it 
is only proper to state that eminent California practition- 
ers, at least, make an emphatic distinction between such 
humidity as the moisture of pure sea air and that which 
exudes from the soil. It is certain that not a few cases of 
advanced consumption have found the most favorable 
conditions for permanent arrest of the disease upon the 
very shore of the sea, as at San Diego. Others appear to 
derive greater benefit from a greater altitude and a drier 
air. And it would seem that all the favorable conditions 
that climate can afford are to be found at one or another 
locality in Southern California, on either island, penin- 
sula, valley, foot-hill, mountain or desert. The invalid is 
advised to abandon at once any notion that because he 



176 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



does not experience the sensation of tropical warmth the 
conditions may not be suitable. It is not the least of the 
merits of this climate that it is opposed to languor and 
stirs to out-of-door activities. In this particular the very 
sensitive need only be cautioned to wear sufficient cloth- 
ing and to confine out-of-door exercise to the warmer 
hours of the day. 

The healthfulness of California is strikingly evidenced 
in the longevity of the native Indians, many individuals 
being still alive at ages ranging from one hundred to one 
hundred and forty years. 

The following tables, selected from the latest published 
reports of the California State Agricultural Society, will 
give the reader a fair general idea of the kind of weather 
that prevails here, so far as brief meteorological statistics 
will serve: 

SAN DIEGO. 
Summary of Weather for i8qo. 



Months 



January 

February .. 

March 

April 

May 

June 

July.. 

August 

September. 
October. ... 
November . 
December . 















' -^ 


•a 
















j_j 


..... 


C M 


c 








0) 

u 


Mean 

aximum 

perature 


Mean 

inimum 

perature 


a • 

a 

> 


a. . 




c 
'5 
Pi 


Ltest Rai 
[ in any 
urs. 




■X 

Q 


■j5 

>> 

P 


73 


a 

a; 


sa 


§a 

0) 









cu ce 2 

W^-l -^ 


^> 


0) 


u 
"n1 


;3 



H 


H 


H 


W 


U 


H 





^ 





fe 





5T° 


58° 


41° 








2.99 


1.32 


28m 


I 


II 


5 


54 


62 


46 








1.70 


I .04 


30 


13 


3 


12 


56 


65 


4B 








.41 


■38 


24 


II 


9 


II 


59 


bS 


52 








•05 


•03 


20 


9 


8 


13 


60 


66 


55 








.08 


.04 


21 


12 


7 


12 


64 


71 


57 


2 





None. 


None. 


21 


IS 


15 





68 


74 


6^ 








None. 


None. 


20 


18 


q 


4 


70 


75 


64 








Trace. 


Trace. 


23 


14 


7 


10 


69 


75 


63 








•65 


•37 


24 


18 


I 


II 


05 


71 


55 


I 





.01 


.01 


21 


23 


3 


5 


64 


76 


52 


I 





.72 


.72 


21 


23 


5 


2 


61 


69 


52 








1. 61 


1.23 


26 


14 


5 


12 



Q 
c 
Pi 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



177 



LOS ANGELES. 
Summary of Weather for i8qi. 



Months. 



January 

February . 

March 

April 

May 

June 

July 

August 

September 
October ... 
November 
December. 



6 


<b 


(U 






1- 


u 




f3 






^ 


<U (U 


be !> 


OS 


S& 


in &i 


P, 










56° 


80° 


34° 


•25 


53 


71 


33 


8.56 


5« 


82 


40 


.41 


59 


86 


42 


1 . 26 


62 


74 


47 


•31 


66 


8q 


49 


None 


74 


*io9 


54 


Trace 


75 


96 


54 


None 


73 


100 


52 


.06 


66 


8q 


46 


None 


61 


85 


40 


None 


53 


75 


33 


1.99 



X} 






so 



70 
70 
72 
78 
73 
73 
75 
69 

75 
73 



i9ni 
24 

24 
16 
18 
16 
15 
13 
20 
16 
12 
28 



* Highest recorded. The normal maximum is 94°. 

RIVERSIDE. 
Summary of Weather for i8c 



■Jj 








■f^ 


m 


w 




c3 


>, 


>. 


to 


G 

01 








cS-a 


-c 


>. 


13 


Oh 3 


p 


C 


Clou 











18 


II 


2 


I 


10 


7 


II 


12 


14 


10 


7 


4 


10 


13 


7 


3 


4 


20 


7 


2 


15 


14 


I 





8 


23 








9 


22 








17 


13 





I 


10 


20 


I 





20 


10 








19 


9 


3 


■^ i 

1 



fe 



bo 



Months. 



January ... 
February.. 

March 

April 

May 

June 

July 

August 

September 
October ... 
November. 
December 






<u 



nJ 



Si- 



66.5° 
82.0 

83 o 

930 
96.5 

108.0 
109.0 
105.0 
104.0 

97.0 
950 
78.0 



26.5° 

28.0 

32 

35 



.£ 

0-= 



4.28 
1 . 76 

•55 
.06 

•17 
none, 
none. 

55 
71 
07 
33 
07 



Q 



O 



16 

17 
II 

9 

9 

14 

27 



25 
26 

14 



Q 



Q 



7 
5 

6 

5 

7 

none. 



Q 



none, 
none. 



J2. 
bo 



16 

7 

2 
none, 
none, 
none, 
none, 
none, 
none, 
none, 
none. 



12 



178 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



SANTA BARBARA. 
Summary of Weather for li 



Months. 



January... 
February.. 

March 

April 

May 

June 

July 

August 

September 

October 

November 
December 



:^2 

§22 



54-4 
52.6 
56.6 
56.3 
59 o 
62.5 
67.0 
69 I 

69-3 
63.0 
58.8 
51-9 



as 



S *- rt S ^- 



"=1 a; 



61.5 
59-2 
64 -5 
62.8 
64.0 

70 5 
78 2 

76-5 
77-5 
72.5 
65.5 
61.5 



47-5 
47-5 
50.0 
51 2 

55-7 
56.2 

61.5 
63.0 

73-0 
58.2 

53-0 
43-5 



W »— ( 

a 
'3 
Pi 



0-45 
7 92 
1.56 

1-57 
0.30 
0.00 
o .00 
o .00 

0.15 
0.00 
0.00 
2-43 



1^ 



3-4 
4 5 
4.6 
4.1 
3-8 
4-3 
3 8 
3-5 
3 5 
30 
2.6 
4-7 



>> 


M 


■rH 


>> 


•d 


cS 


> 6 


Q 


-D 


u 




c8 


C^ 





59 


28 


74 


15 


71 


22 


7S 


22 


76 


10 


72 


24 


78 


21 


75 


26 


69 


23 


75 


17 


70 


22 


61 


24 



as 
P 

o 
U 



The mean temperature of the year was 60°, differing by less than 
one-tenth of a degree from the normal. 

The highest temperature during the year was 96°, and lowest 33'^. 
There were thirty-six days when the temperature rose above 80°, and 
thirty-five nights when it did not fall below 60°. 

Of the 365 days in the year, 254 were clear, 54 fair, and 57 
cloudy. 

Rain fell on twenty days, with a rainfall of 14.38 inches, being 
2.7 inches below the average. Between the i8th of April and the 
4th of December, a period of 230 days, the entire rainfall was less 
than half an inch. 

The average rainfall for twenty-four years was, in inches: Jan- 
uary, 3.76; February, 3.80; March, 2.16; April, 1.45; Ma)^o.33; June, 
o.ii; July, none; August, trace; September, o. 10; October, 0.77; 
November, 1.69; December, 3.97. 

FRESNO. 

Summary of Weather for 1891. 

Average temperature 63° 

Highest temperature ..114', in July. 

Lowest temperature 26°, in January. 

Days temperature above 90*^ 87 

Days temperature below 32'' 20 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



179 



Mean humidity 55 per cent. 

Total precipitation . 8.94 inches. 

Clear days 235 

Fair days _ 98 

Cloudy days 32 

Days .01 inches of rainfall 41 

Thunder-storm i 



SAN FRANCISCO. 
Summary of Weather for 1891. 

Average temperature _ 56.6° 

Highest temperature 100® , June 29th . 

Lowest temperature 37", December 25th. 

Average humidity 80 per cent. 

Total precipitation 21. 11 inches. 

Maximum velocity of wind 48 miles. Feb. 22d. 

Clear days 185 

Fair days -.. 100 

Cloudy days 80 

Rainy days 81 

Snow-storms o 

Thunder and lightning o 

Days temperature above 90° 3 

Days temperature below 32° o 

SACRAMENTO. 



Weather Review for: 



Average temper'ture 
Highest temperature 
Lowest temperature. 
Average humidity... 
Total precipitation.. 
Maximum velocity of 

wind 

Clear days 

Fair days 

Cloudy days. .. 
Days of precipitation 

Snow-storms 

Electric storms 

Light frosts 

Killing frosts 

Days temp, above 90' 
Days temp, below 32° 



1882. 


1883. 


1884. 


1885. 


1886. 


58.5 


58.8 


58.8 


61.2 


58.8 


99 « 


103-5 


100. 


105-5 


105.0 


27.0 
66.0 


22.0 
69 


21.0 
70.7 


34 2 
67 8 


275 

70 I 


18.04 


13 48 


34-92 


20.72 


18.17 


36 

249 

76 


36 

263 

76 


36 

239 
68 


36 

227 

88 


44 

262 
76 


40 
70 


26 

54 


59 
76 


50 
62 


27 
57 


3 


2 











4 


2 


2 


6 


3 


69 


33 


31 


24 


30 


12 


40 


22 





10 


43 


45 


22 


49 


45 


5 


27 


13 





4 



1887. 


1888. 


1889. 


1890. 


59-9 


60.6 


60.9 


59-4 


100. 


107-5 


104.0 


102.0 


28.0 
63-7 
13-43 


19.0 
67.1 
18.46 


31.0 
69.8 
27.48 


29.0 
68.0 
20 95 


40 
267 


48 
238 


42 

2X8 


42 
237 


74 
24 
56 


75 
52 
63 


91 

57 
77 


59 
69 

55 





3 








2 

18 


3 
6 


7 
18 


2 
19 


26 
48 


14 

58 


14 
51 


10 

28 


9 


12 


7 


5 



59-5 
106.0 
26.0 
66.0 
15-63 

39 

230 

90 

45 
61 



17 
23 

57 



180 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

Industrial. — California produces more gold, more 
wool, and more fruit than any other State in the Union. 
Gold to the value of a few millions has been taken from 
Southern California, but the great placer fields lie along 
the foot-hills of the Sierra Nevada in the northern part of 
the State. A total of about $1,275,000,000 in gold has 
been taken from California and about $40,000,000 of silver. 
From 1850 to 1855 the annual output of gold averaged 
$55,000,000, but it has greatly decreased in recent years. 
The yearly product is lessened about $10,000,000 in conse- 
quence of the law forbidding hydraulic mining in the 
greater part of the State, because the voluminous washing 
away of large bodies of earth by that process injured the 
agricultural lands and the navigable rivers which received 
the enormous floods of detritus. Efforts are periodically 
made to have this prohibition rescinded, but thus far 
without success. 

In other minerals the State has proven exceedingly 
rich, copper, lead, iron, graphite, coal, petroleum, as- 
phaltum, gypsum, borax, salt, sulphur, asbestos, soda, 
nitre, etc., being largely produced. The commoner build- 
ing-stones are also plentifully quarried. Some 30,000 
men are engaged in the different branches of mining. 

The annual wheat yield is about 35,000,000 bushels. 
Dairies produce 15,000,000 pounds of cheese and butter. 
The conversion of cattle into beef reaches the value of 
$30,000,000. The wool industry yields over 30,000,000 
pounds; 15,000,000 gallons of wine are manufactured, of 
which 3,000,000 gallons are converted into sweet wine and 
brandy. 

Hay and root crops are very valuable, and sugar is a 
large commercial item, many thousand acres being de- 
voted to the sugar-beet. Hops and tobacco are raised 
in considerable quantity, although the rank growth of 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 181 

tobacco in California is not favorable to the best 
quality. 

There are millions upon millions of fruit trees in bear- 
ing, and an enormous number of new orchards are planted 
every year. The fruits, berries, and nuts of the upper 
north temperate zone grow side by side with the orange, 
lemon, lime, pomegranate, prune, olive, fig, almond, peach, 
apricot, persimmon, and guava. The English walnut and 
the palm thrive in the same garden, and the strawberry 
and the banana are neighbors. 

The time of the year at which the principal fruits of 
California are ripe is noted below: 

Oranges Christmas to July. 

Lemons All the year. 

Limes _ All the year. 

Figs July to Christmas. 

Almonds . October. 

Apples July to November. 

Pears. July to November. 

Grapes July 1 5th to December. 

Peaches.. June 15th to Christmas. 

Apricots. June 1 5th to September. 

Plums and prunes June ist to November. 

Cherries June. 

Japanese persimmons November. 

Guavas Nearly all the year. 

Loquats May 1 5th to June 1 5th. 

Strawberries Nearly all the year round. 

Raspberries June 15th to January. 

Blackberries. ...June 15th to September. 

Currants May 15th to June 15th. 

Watermelons July to October. 

Muskmelons July to October. 

Mulberries July to December. 

Nectarines August. 

Olives December to January. 

Pomegranates September to December, 

Quinces October to December. 



182 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

For the general information of the inquiring reader 
some account of the methods and profits of a few of the 
most important fruit, berry, and nut-growing industries of 
the State is appended. The figures given have been col- 
lated from sources which are believed to be reliable, but 
are not furnished with any intent of persuading the 
reader that his fortune surely lies in an orchard or vine- 
yard in California or elsewhere. The fruit business is by 
no means all poetry, and not every investment is rewarded 
by success. Intelligence and eternal vigilance are essen- 
tial in this as in other enterprises for the making of 
money. An orchard is generally prompt to resent neglect 
or wrong treatment, and it is all-important to secure a 
proper location in the beginning, where soil and local 
climate are suitable. And it is well to remember that 
the greatest successes in fruit raising are naturally accom- 
plished by the expert growers, and that assumed success 
is the basis of the figures quoted. 

The Orange. — The orange trees now growing in Cal- 
ifornia number nearly 4,000,000, of which 94 per cent 
(3,720,257 trees) are in the six southern counties, as follows: 

San Bernardino County _. .2,287,200 

San Diego County 204,026 

Ventura County 63,700 

Los Angeles County 987,102 

Orange County 134,029 

Santa Barbara County 44,200 

These counties, comprising the region known as the 
Citrus Belt, now export approximately 4,000 car-loads of 
oranges, and for every tree in bearing there are three not 
yet productive. The Washington Navel, brought from 
Brazil and first domesticated at Riverside, is the favorite. 
The Seedling is also very popular at Riverside. This tree 
is slower in maturing, and bears smaller fruit, but larger 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



183 



crops, and it is very long-lived. The Mediterranean Sweet, 
Valencia, Malta Blood, and Tangerine complete the list of 
principal varieties grown. 

The length of time required for an orange orchard to 
come into full bearing, and the cost of bringing it to 
that point, is considerable. The land, in the first place, 




ORANGE GROVE, CALIFORNIA. 

costs more than farm land in the Eastern States, but it 
gives very much greater returns for w^ell-directed effort. 
Two hundred and fifty dollars an acre is regarded as a 
fair average price for orange land in Southern California, 
with ample irrigation facilities attached, in a district 
where the cultivation of the citrus fruits has proven a 
success. In many places of long-established reputation 



184 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

the prices range from $450 to $750 per acre. The expendi- 
ture involved in rearing an orange orchard to the end of 
the third year, when it should pay interest upon the 
investment at the rate of 10 per cent, is approximately 
as follows : 

Ten acres of land _ $2,500 

Preparing the ground. 50 

One thousand trees 1,000 

Planting complete 50 

Water first year 30 

Care of orchard first year _ _ 200 

Incidentals 70 

$3,900 
The two following years, counting interest at 8 per 

cent, will cost 1,320 

Total cost after three years $5,220 

It is assumed in the above computation that the trees 
planted are two-year-old buds on three-year-old roots. 
Five years thereafter each tree should bear from one to 
one and a half boxes, and the total crop of the ten acres 
should be worth from $2,000 to $3,000. Six hundred 
dollars an acre net profit, however, has been realized from 
full-bearing orchards. 

The Lemon. — The culture of the lemon is much the 
same as that of the orange, and the profits do not greatly 
differ. Lemon culture in California was long retarded by 
the difificulty of curing the fruit, as, although it has a seem- 
ingly tough rind, it is very sensitive to rough handling, 
and can spoil quickly. It is now successfully cured, all its 
quality being retained for many months after picking, and 
in consequence the producer is not compelled to sacrifice 
his crop at unprofitable prices, but can wait for a good 
market, 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



185 



Southern California has 397,792 lemon trees, 96 per 
cent of all that the State contains. Less than one-fourth 
of these are in bearing, yet the product is already 800 car- 
loads a year. The Lisbon and the Eureka are the leading 
varieties. 

The Grape. — Enor- 
mous quantities of 
choice grapes are 
grown for table use, 
and for raisins, wine, 
and brandy. The 
mission lands gave 
to the successors of 
the Spaniard a pala- 
table grape, but this 
has been supplanted 
by many improved 
varieties, of which 
there are the Flame 
Tokay, Champagne, 
and Black Hamburg 
for the table, the 
Muscat and Seedless 
Sultana for raisins, 
and the French and 
Spanish varieties for 
wine and brandy. 

To plant, irrigate, 
and care for a raisin 
vineyard to the end 
of the second year costs about $85 per acre. The yield 
in the third year is 50 boxes; fourth year, 100 boxes; 
fifth year, 200 boxes; and after that there is a small 
increase. Raisins are worth from $1 to $1.50 a box. The 




^>«H-^ 



A CALIFORNIA GRAPEVINK. 



186 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

cost of cultivating is $15 per acre, and of curing and pack- 
ing 40 cents per box. In many localities the raisin grape 
is raised without irrigation. The fogless interior valleys 
are best adapted to this industry. Two and a half million 
boxes was the raisin product of California in 1891. 

TJie Prune. — Prunes are grafted on plum stock, and 
are planted about twenty-five feet apart, at the rate of 100 
trees to the acre. The fourth year after planting the 
yield is about 10 pounds per tree, the fifth year 60 pounds, 
and the sixth year 120 pounds. Thereafter the yield 
ranges from 150 pounds to 300 pounds. They are not 
picked, but shaken from the tree, at intervals covering 
most of the month of August, the ripest hanging most 
loosely to the stem. Prunes are dried before shipment. 
The ripe fruit — called " green " to distinguish it from the 
dried article — is dipped in a wire basket into boiling 
water to which concentrated lye has been added, and then 
laid upon trays and dried in the sun. A finishing gloss 
for market may then be added by dipping in pure boiling 
water. This process is for those that are dried whole. 
They are also split and stoned before drying. The French 
and the Silver prune are favorites. 

The California product of prunes is 20,000,000 pounds. 
The cost of rearing a ten-acre prune orchard to the end 
of the fourth year, the land costing $150 per acre, has 
been figured at $2,750. From the fifth year onward a net 
profit of from $150 to $300 per acre may be expected. 

The Olive. — The olive tree reaches a maximum height 
of twenty feet. It has evergreen leaves and minute white 
blossoms in small clusters. The fruit is of a black-red 
color when ripe, and very bitter. Over twenty varieties 
are enumerated by the French. It is propagated very 
easily, by grafting upon seedlings, or from truncheons, 
from cuttings of stems and roots, and from suckers, layers 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 187 

and protuberances, planted in the ground. It begins to 
bear in from three to five years from planting of one-year- 
old rooted cuttings. In seven years the yield should be a 
gallon of olives to a tree, and increases steadily for many 
years. Olive trees live and are fruitful for centuries. 
There are some now in existence in the Old World which 
are believed to antedate the Christian era. 

The primitive man who first tasted an olive, and in the 
bitterness of that experience had faith to persist in dis- 
covering a use for it, is worthy of as great an admiration as 
he who first ate an oyster. Fair as a plum in its appearance, 
the essence of gall is not more execrable than its taste. 

In most American homes, in regions where the olive 
does not grow, it is commonly used as a relish, and the 
taste is acquired rather than natural; and the liberal use 
of its oil is not common there. This is accounted for by 
two reasons. First, the common pickled olive of com- 
merce is not the oil berry, and is consequently deficient 
in flavor and nutriment. Secondly, what is termed olive 
oil in the Eastern States is, many chances to one, largely 
composed of the oil of cotton seed, mustard seed, and the 
peanut, or other adulterants. It is, therefore, not to be 
wondered at that the articles which go by the name of 
olive oil have not recommended themselves more favor- 
ably to the average American palate. 

The Franciscan friars brought with them cuttings 
from the choicest olive trees in Spain, and the Mission 
olive contains five times as much oil as the Queen olive. 
It is a soft-fleshed, oleaginous berry, grateful to the palate 
when properly pickled, and may be freely eaten without 
satiety or injury. It is a food claimed to be as nutritious 
as the best beef, pound for pound, and day laborers can 
work indefinitely on no other diet than this bitter berry, 
soaked in lye, washed in water, and plunged into brine. 



188 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

The manufacture of olive oil is a nice process, requir- 
ing the absolute exclusion of deleterious odors, which it is 
quick to absorb. The ripe berries, having first been par- 
tially dried, are ground to a pumice and repeatedly placed 
under heavy pressure. The oil thus expressed falls into 
tanks of pure water, from whose surface it is collected. 
The further process of ripening and filtering requires 
skill and a rigid observance of proper conditions. 

These products in California are greatly superior to the 
imported articles. Up to the present time they have been 
almost wholly consumed within the State, but it seems 
probable that the greater output of the thousands of 
young orchards now growing will find a ready market in 
other States by reason of superior merit alone. Pickled 
olives here are worth about 75 cents per gallon, and 
the oil about $5. The berry yields from 10 to 20 per 
cent of its weight in oil. A fully developed tree has 
been known to yield sixteen gallons of oil. Its longevity 
gave rise to the old Italian proverb that '' He who plants 
an olive orchard leaves an inheritance for future genera- 
tions." It may be counted upon for 300 years of pro- 
ductiveness. It thrives on hillside soil without irrigation, 
but while it is in many respects hardy and free from 
parasitic pests, it is easily injured by rough handling. At 
seven years from planting the gross return per acre has 
been figured at $500. 

The literature of the olive contains much that is of 
interest. It begins, of course, at the point when Noah's 
dove went back to the ark with an olive branch, for such 
a beginning has so manifest an advantage in establishing 
at once a respectable antiquity for the subject, no writer 
seems willing to forego it. The olive must have been 
treasured high in the hearts of mankind, even at that 
remote epoch, to be identified with so momentous an occa- 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



189 



sion, and ever since the flood it has stood for an overture 
of peace and good will among men. Its leaves were the 
laurel wreath of the Greeks, typical of vitality and lon- 
gevity, and were mingled in the triumphal crowns of 
Roman heroes. It 
also possesses the dig- 
nity of intimate asso- 
ciation with Christian 
story, as Gethsemane 
means an oil-press, 
and stood upon the 
Mount of Olives. For 
thousands of years 
the olive has yielded 
food, light, and medi- 
cine for innumerable 
generations, a staple 
luxury to the rich and 
a cheap and sufficient 
nutriment to multi- 
tudes of the poor who 
have scarce known 
the use of meat ex- 
cept by hearsa}^ It 
was native to Pales- 
tine and Asia Minor, 
from which countries 
it was early carried 
to Northern Europe, 
Western Asia, and 
Northern Africa. It was brought to South America and 
Mexico two centuries ago, and introduced into our South 
Atlantic States not long before the Revolution. The 
Mission fathers brought it to California. Ancient his- 




^KV'f^ = 






TWENTY MINUTES FROM AN ORANGE GROVE. 



190 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

tory, both sacred and profane, abounds in allusions to 
it. The oil mentioned in Holy Writ was that of the 
olive. The Good Samaritan poured it into the wounds 
of the poor wayfarer, and the Wise Virgins filled their 
lamps with it. The Greeks used it for outward appli- 
cation in their gymnasiums, for Athens was a center 
of olive culture, and the Romans imitated them in its 
use; and not a few proininent physicians in California 
regard anointing with olive oil as a valuable adjunct in 
the art of healing. 

TJie Walnut. — The valleys of Southern California are 
particularly favorable to the culture of the walnut, of 
which there are many varieties, differing in hardness of 
shell, of which the " improved soft-shell " is regarded as 
most profitable. A deep alluvial soil, with good drainage, 
is best adapted to this nut. The trees grow to a large 
size, and should be set at least fifty feet apart to insure 
separation when the full growth has been attained. The 
soft-shell walnut tree begins to bear when five years old, 
and at ten years is in full bearing, in proportion to its 
capacity, although it continues to increase in size for 
many years thereafter. At sixteen years of age a walnut 
tree should have produced a total of i,ooo pounds of nuts, 
which are worth from 7^ to 8^ cents per pound. The 
nuts are dried in trays and assorted by running through 
a grader. The largest bearing walnut orchard in the 
world is one of 200 acres at Carpinteria, in Santa Bar- 
bara County. From Rivera, near Los Angeles, forty- 
seven car-loads of walnuts are shipped annually. 

The Almond, — The almond tree differs from the apple, 
peach, cherry, and plum in the particular that it is always 
grafted or budded. The other trees named usually pro- 
duce more and better fruit when similarly treated than if 
allowed to mature from the seed, but the fruit of their 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 191 

seedling's is sure to be marketable at some price, and 
often turns out to be a superior variety. The seedling 
almond, however, while subject to the same possibility, 
usually proves worthless, and its fruit is often deadly 
poisonous. There is a tendency to frequent reversion to 
antecedent types throughout the animal and vegetable 
kingdoms, technically known as atavism, and this tend- 
ency is particularly strong in the almond, as if its evolu- 
tion had been too recent for the approved type to have 
become firmly set. And even among carefully budded or 
grafted trees there w411 occasionally be some that never 
bear at all, or bear nuts that are worthless. 

The almond blooms early in spring and matures late in 
the fall. It belongs to the same family as the peach, but its 
quality goes to the pit, or nut, instead of to the flesh of 
the envelope, or drupe. It has no parasite enemies, and 
is easily cultivated. The varieties are differentiated, like 
those of the walnut, by the thickness or fragility of the 
shell, the paper-shell variety being most highly esteemed. 
After husking, the nuts are sun-dried and bleached with 
the fumes of sulphur before they are ready for market. 
The almond is the most precious of orchard products, 
pound for pound, and American consumers yearly spend 
more money for this than for all other nuts together. 
The tree is said to be somewhat capricious as to locality, 
although it will thrive on land that is too poor for 
peaches or apricots. It bears in four years from planting, 
and yields a net profit of $ioo per acre. The almond does 
not yet count among the important products of California, 
but has begun to receive more general attention than was 
formerly accorded to it. 

TJie Fig. — Although the fig tree thrives generally in 
Southern California, most of the orchards are still young, 
having been planted within the last half-dozen years. It 



192 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

fruits young, cuttings generally bearing a few figs the 
next year after planting. Ten tons have been gathered 
from an acre of sixteen-year-old trees, worth $50 a ton 
delivered at the local curing establishment. 

The Apricot. — The apricot is a fruit that does well 
near the coast. It follows the strawberry and cherry in 
order of ripening. From $75 to $150 an acre net profit 
from an orchard five years old is considered a fair average. 
The apricot is largely canned and dried. 

Peaches, nectarines, apples, pears, cherries, guavas, 
persimmons (Japanese), loquats (Japanese plums), pome- 
granates, and enormous quantities of strawberries, black- 
berries, raspberries, gooseberries, etc., are commonly 
raised, and pineapples, dates, and bananas are grown on a 
small scale in favorable localities. 

Ostrich Farming. — There are perhaps half a dozen 
ostrich farms in Southern California. The enterprise is 
by no means a purely fanciful one. These birds thrive 
and multiply and yield valuable plumes as well among the 
California hills as in their native Africa, and the pioneers 
of the experiment maintain that in time the industry will 
prove profitable and comparatively general, not only in 
this State but in parts of Arizona and New Mexico as well. 
The largest farm is between Oceanside and Fall Brook, 
about twelve miles from the former. 

The ostrich is a mere other-hemisphere curiosity when 
viewed in a menagerie. Here, where he roams with scores 
of his fellows over 160 acres of grass-grown hills, he is at 
home, and his habits and personality become an easy and 
entertaining study. A three-months'-old " chick " is no 
chicken in appearance, for it stands fully four feet high 
and looks as if it might have had at least two birthdays. 
Nevertheless, the female does not mature until four years 
old, nor does the raale until five. 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST 



193 



The color of the young birds is brown in general effect, 
and the hen remains of that hue. The cock, as he nears 
maturity, turns a deep, glossy black, with a row of pure 
white plumes among those of jet; down the front of each 
leg is a stripe of brilliant red, and a ring of the same 




OSTRICHES, CALIFORNIA. 

color surrounds his big, savage eyes, for the cock ostrich 
is a ferocious creature at times, and even the hens must 
be handled with skill. As fast as the birds pair, the 
couple are confined in a paddock about an acre in extent. 
The hen begins to lay soon after the rains come, one egg 
every other day until the nest — a careless excavation 
three feet across, scratched in the sand — contains any- 
where from eight to fifteen eggs, according to her humor, 
or her ability to count. 

The cock does the principal part of the labor of setting. 
Every afternoon exactly at 4 o'clock he relieves his mate, 

13 



194 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

and never quits the nest until 8 o'clock next morning-, thus 
giving the female a short watch of only eight hours out 
of the twenty-four, and all daylight at that. The prac- 
tice, however, is to remove the eggs to an incubator as 
fast as laid, and in that case the hen will lay as many as 
twenty-five or thirty before taking a rest. 

An interval of five or six weeks ensues, and then she 
resumes laying. Thus the ostrich farmer counts upon 
three periods of productiveness from his breeders in a 
year, aggregating from seventy-five to ninety eggs from 
each laying hen, although, as in the case of fowls, not all 
the eggs are fertile. The eggs hatch in forty days here — 
two days sooner than in Africa. The unmated birds are 
allowed to herd, and are called the '' feather troop." 

The plumes are plucked once in eight months. The 
first plucking takes place when the chick is six months 
old. The feathers then are small and of an inferior 
quality, and are used in the manufacture of feather 
dusters. In the vernacular of the African Boers, these 
first feathers are "spadones." At one year old the chick 
yields feathers fit for use in trimmings. At two years a 
respectable plume is obtained, and thereafter the ostrich 
is a ripe and regular plume-producer. Of plumes there 
are four rows on each wing, and in each row twenty-six 
plumes, every one after its own kind, both in color and 
size, in any given row. The tail plumes are termed 
"boos." 

An ostrich-plucking is an interesting operation. The 
regular " feather troop " are rather docile if unmolested, 
but highly excitable, and are dangerous kickers on small 
provocation unless they are first blindfolded. Conse- 
quently they are called into a paddock and fed, and while 
they are busily engaged in picking up the corn or chopped 
beets that have been thrown them, two trained men 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 195 

quietly approach and dexterously seize a bird by the neck 
and at the same instant thrust a long hood, not unlike a 
huge stocking, over its head. 

It is then forced into a railed inclosure about three 
feet square and a gate is shut behind it. Thus hooded, 
the ostrich requires muscular men to hold it, but it rarely 
shows fight. The plumes are then carefully snipped off 
one by one, and the stub of the quill allowed to remain 
imtil its juices have been diverted into other growing 
feathers and it has become transparent to the eye. This 
requires but a few days, and then the stub is pulled out. 
After plucking, the bird's thigh is daubed with red paint 
before it is turned loose, and when the quill stubs have 
been extracted a second marking is made, so that a glance 
will discover the condition of any bird in the troop. 

When, however, a breeding cock is to be shorn of his 
plumes, the operation requires more nerve, address, and 
strength. He is as dangerous as a vicious bull at almost 
any hour of the day. If you but approach his paddock 
closely he will generally trot up to the fence and peer 
over and down upon you, opening his short, stout beak 
with a hiss, and looking bullets and bludgeons at you out 
of his wicked eyes. He fights with his queer, two-toed, 
hoof-like feet, and kicks forward, something as a pugilist 
delivers his blow, sometimes from a standstill and some- 
times while running upon his adversary. 

Owing to the pugnacious temper of the breeding cock, 
therefore, the ordinary stratagem of throwing it food is 
of no avail. When the hour for his plucking arrives, he is 
taunted and challenged to come to the fence and fight, if by 
any chance he does not propose it himself, and in the melee 
he is caught around the neck by strong arms and hooded. 
He is then harmless, although the combined strength of 
two men is exhausted by the time his plucking is finished. 



196 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

The average weight of a full-grown cock is 175 pounds. 
Each bird yields at a plucking, on an average, one and 
one-fourth pounds of plumes. Some of these are the 
"prime white," and sell for $75 a pound at wholesale, 
although as much as $7.50 is sometimes received for a 
single plume of super excellence. 

Others are the "long black," next in value, the "long 
drab" (from the female), " medium," and "short." The 
average value of a plucking from a single bird is $35, 
and as it is plucked three times in two years the value of 
the annual product in plumes is about $50 for each bird. 

The life of an ostrich is commonly thirty years. They 
are sold at from $30, the price of a chick, to $300 for a 
three-year-old bird. A breeding pair is valued at $1,000. 

PRINCIPAL POINTS OF INTEREST. 

Intermediate Stations: Mellen, Beal. 

Needles. — Chicago, 1,955 miles; St. Louis, 1,815 miles; Los 
Angeles, 310 miles; San Diego, 393 miles; San Francisco, 622 miles. 
Altitude, 476 feet. Dining station. 

Approaching this desert station the hovels of the 
Mojave and Chimehuevi Indians are seen on the flats by 
the wayside. There are about 800 of the Mojaves remain- 
ing. The men are well built and are not bad looking for 
Indians. They are fleet runners and capable of covering 
an extraordinary distance in a short time. The women 
are unprepossessing. A number of Mojave squaws are 
always seen at the station on arrival of trains, eager to 
sell pottery, toys, and bows and arrows to tourists. This 
tribe lost its formidable character thirty years ago, when 
Colonel Hoffman of the regular service gave it a crushing 
defeat. Lieutenant Ives found stanch and manly char- 
acters among them, but they are now a disreputable, beg- 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 197 

garly lot, offering- another example of the singular demor- 
alization of the Red Man that has resulted from contact 
with a superior race. 

The Mojave Desert. — Westward from Needles the 
Atlantic & Pacific Railroad runs for 240 miles over the 
Mojave Desert, to the station Mojave. This is merely a 
section of the Great Desert belt which in this longitude 
extends across the whole of the United States from north 
to south, and intercepts every transcontinental railroad. 
Except in the extreme north this desert belt is very warm 
in midsummer, through the day. The greater part of the 
Mojave Desert is, however, commonly crossed in the 
night by the trains of the Santa Fe Route, the schedule 
being purposely arranged to escape the discomforts of a 
transit by day. But even by day there is enough of 
interest in the scene to reward one for its heat and fatigue. 
Rock, alkali, scoriae, cactus, yucca, and sage-brush are 
invested with a certain charm by reason of the absence of 
animation from all the landscape, and the eye ranges 
far to huge mountain masses upon the horizon, blue with 
distance. It is not a desert in the sense of being- an 
unbroken waste of sand, but a vast barren, extremely arid 
and apparently hopeless. Only at long intervals is there 
a cluster of human habitations. The desert lies like a 
grim barrier against approach to the garden of California, 
a thing stripped of its terrors only by the locomotive. 
This route by the way of The Needles was never a 
thoroughfare tmtil the railroad was built. The Forty- 
niners went to California overland, by routes far to the 
north and to the south; across the desert, indeed, but by 
no short cut. If the old-time caravans could have arrived 
thus far without molestation by Indians, it is doubtful if 
they could have found water with sufficient frequency to 
support life in traversing this desolate tract. But the age 



.198 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

of steam has subdued it. It has no longer power to dis- 
turb the traveler's sleep for a single night. 

Intermediate Stations: Java, Klinefelter, Ibex, 
Homer, Blake, Fenner, Edson, Danby, Cadiz, Bristol, 
Amboy. 

Blake is a junction point with the Nevada Southern 
Railway, recently constructed and now in operation to 
Manvel, a distance of thirty miles. 

Bag"Clad. — Chicago, 2,046 miles; St. Louis, 1,906 miles; Los 
Angeles, 219 miles; San Diego, 302 miles; San Francisco, 531 
miles. Altitude, 782 feet. Dining station. 

Intermediate Stations: Siberia, Ash Hill, Ludlow, 
Lavic, Haslett, Newberry. 

Dag'g'ett. —Chicago, 2,114 miles; St. Louis, 1,974 miles; Los 
Angeles, 151 miles; San Diego, 234 miles; San Francisco, 463 miles. 
Altitude, 2,000 feet. 

North of Daggett lies Death Valley, often erroneously 
spoken and written of as located in the vicinity of Salton, 
on the Southern Pacific Railroad, in the extreme southern 
part of California. It is a sunken basin 285 feet below 
sea-level, surrounded by mountains. Its lugubrious name 
was derived from the experience of a company of Argo- 
nauts, and Amargosa (Bitter) River, Furnace Creek, 
Funeral Mountains, and the like are also descriptive of 
the locality. In the early days of the excitement follow- 
ing the discovery of gold in California, thousands of gold- 
seekers made their way overland by every available route. 
One of these routes led through Salt Lake City, and 
across nearly a thousand miles of alkali plain and desert 
that intervened between the Mormon settlements and the 
Sierra Nevada Range. One party, numbering about 
seventy, including women and children, was induced to 
deflect southward from the regular wagon trail across 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



199 



Nevada, in the belief that more abundant water would 
thus be found, and the hardships and perils of the journey 
much abated. It was a march to death. One after another 
the oxen died of thirst and starvation, and one after 
another of the party succumbed and was buried in the 
sands of the relentless desert. On arriving at the summit 
of the Funeral Range it became necessary to cross a deep 
valley which stretched between that range and the Para- 




CAJON PASS. 

mint Mountains, and they descended hopefully in the 
delusion that the white reflection from the bottom 
indicated the presence of a body of water. They found 
only alkali marshes, salt hillocks, and sand-dunes. There 
the destruction of the party was completed, save only two 
men, Bennett and Stockton, who succeeded in reaching 
the California settlements. The rest perished, either 
within the valley or in the wilderness, over which they 
scattered panic-stricken in a mad individual search for 
water. That episode gave the valley its name, and the 



200 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

story is rendered more pathetic by the subsequent discov- 
ery by prospectors of fresh- water springs not far from the 
spot where the tragedy culminated. Similar instances of 
death from thirst within reach of unsuspected means of 
salvation have occurred elsewhere on the desert. In some 
arid localities water lies very near the surface of barren 
sands, and has been known to form a pool by "seeping" 
into the slight depression made by the tread of a gathered 
bunch of buffalo or cattle. In Texas a party of emigrants 
once perished of thirst upon a spot where those who dis- 
covered their bodies struck water in digging their graves. 

Twenty years ago silver and gold were discovered in 
Death Valley, on the slopes of the Paramint Range, and 
the evil reputation of the place was enhanced by the 
dismal fate of not a few prospectors who wandered too 
far from the infrequent water-holes. Large deposits of 
borax were also discovered there, and a line of freight 
wagons was established between the valley and Daggett 
for the transportation of this commodity, afterward aban- 
doned because of the great cost of teaming across a 
mountainous desert where for seventy-five miles at one 
stretch from Daggett there is no sign of water, and because 
the fearful heat of summer in the furnace-like basin per- 
mitted the work to be carried on only through a portion 
of the year. 

In 1 89 1 the region was scientifically explored by natur- 
alists employed by the United States Department of 
Agriculture. The mountains are described by one of the 
party as brilliantly colored masses of black, yellow, blood- 
red, gray, and brown. Yuccas, cacti, and in the upper 
cafions many varieties of wild-flowers, in season, abound. 
The waters of the Amargosa, after flowing for eighty miles, 
are completely absorbed by Death Valley. They are 
strongly impregnated with soda and borax, and are 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 201 

exceedingly poisonous to drink. Some of the noblest 
mountain-peaks in the world are there visible, but the 
tourist might almost as reasonably leap into the crater of 
Vesuvius as to commit himself to the perils of a visit to 
the spot. The world probably does not contain a more 
terrible region. 

Barstow.— Chicago, 2,124 miles; St. Louis, 1,984 miles; Los 
Angeles, 141 miles; San Diego, 224 miles; San Francisco, 453 miles. 
Altitude, 2,105 feet. Dining station. Junction with Southern Cali- 
fornia Railway. 

Trains for Southern California here turn south, and for 
those trains the time here changes one hour. 

Barstow is an unimportant distributing point for scat- 
tered mining properties. 

Intermediate Stations: Waterman, Hinckley, Har- 
per, Kramer, Rogers, Bissell. 

Mojave. — Chicago, 2,195 miles; St. Louis, 2,055 miles; San 
Francisco, 382 miles. Altitude, 2,737 feet. Dining station. 

This is merely a junction point with the Southern 
Pacific Railroad, and the end of the Atlantic & Pacific 
Railroad. Trains from Los Angeles to San Francisco 
pass through Mojave, and the through cars destined to 
San Francisco over the Santa Fe Route are attached to 
those trains at this point. 

Here the time changes one hour, as it changed at 
Barstow for trains turning south from that point, Bar- 
stow being a southern boundary, and Mojave a south- 
western boundary, of the mountain division of standard 
time. 

The plan of this guide-book now reverts to Barstow 
and accompanies the traveler destined to Southern Cali- 
fornia. On page 238 the journey to San Francisco is 
resumed. 



202 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

Barstow to San Bernardino. — Northwest of Los An- 
geles an arm of the Coast Range, known as the Sierra 
Madre, and also as the San Bernardino Range, stretches 
eastward for loo miles to Mount San Bernardino, beyond 
which it turns taperingly to the southeast. Leaving 
Barstow the northern slope of this range is climbed, cross- 
ing the Mojave River, and the passage made through 
Cajon Pass at an altitude of less than 4,000 feet, although 
San Bernardino Peak itself rises to a height of more than 
11,000. The approach to the pass is not particularly 
impressive, except by reason of the sterility of the adja- 
cent country and the extraordinary rockiness of certain 
localities. There are points where it would seem impossi- 
ble to have brought horses or mules in making the original 
railroad survey, in consequence of the dense litter of sharp 
rock fragments. A few small stations are scattered along 
the ascent of this slope, which are tributary to mining 
properties a dozen miles distant from the railroad. There 
are deposits of gold, silver, tin, and iron, and valuable 
quarries of Verde Antique marble. Oro Grande and Vic- 
tor are examples of such stations, thirty-one and thirty- 
seven miles, respectively, from Barstow. Hesperia, forty- 
five miles from Barstow, is the seat of a small colony 
devoted to raisin growing. In the vicinity of Hesperia the 
Yucca brevifolia is particularly abundant. This aesthetic 
tree is often erroneously called a palm. 

Intermediate Stations: Cottonwood, Point of Rocks, 
Oro Grande, Victor, Hesperia. 

Summit. — Chicago, 2,180 miles; St. Louis, 2,040 miles; Los 
Angeles, 85 miles; San Diego, 168 miles. Altitude, 3,8ig feet. 

This is the summit of Cajon Pass, whose descent, im- 
mediately following, affords through many miles a series 
of mountain views of great beauty. Between Summit 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 203 

and Cajon, the station six miles beyond, are roofed ter- 
races on both sides of the track, an engineering device to 
prevent the softening of the earth in times of heavy rain 
and the consequent landslides that formerly filled up these 
deep cuts and completely blocked the railroad. 

InteriMEDiate Stations: Cajon, Keenbrook, Irvington. 

Highland Junction. — Two miles north of San Bernardino. 
Altitude, 1,138 feet. Junction with the Belt Line, known as the Kite- 
shaped Track, of which further mention will be made in its place. 

San Bernardino. — Chicago, 2,205 miles; St. Louis, 2,065 
miles; Los Angeles, 60 miles; San Diego, 143 miles. Dining station. 
Altitude, 1,075 feet. Population, 4,012. Diverging point of short 
line to San Diego from main line to Los Angeles. 

San Bernardino was settled by Mormons more than 
forty years ago, but its greatest growth has been attained 
in the last half-dozen years. It is environed by many 
orange orchards and vineyards. Fruit-canning and the 
manufacture of flour, lumber, bricks, and carriages are 
among its industries, and it contains the customary shops 
and engine-houses of a railroad division point. It pos- 
sesses handsome residences and business blocks, and 
excellent hotels. 

The peaks of Mounts San Bernardino (ii,8oo feet) and 
San Antonio (10,894 feet) are visible from the station, and 
a third conspicuous object is a gigantic bare spot, 1,300 
feet long and 450 feet wide, on the mountain slopes six 
miles away, presenting a striking likeness to a stone 
arrow-head. It marks the location of Arrowhead Springs, 
an attractive and popular resort. 

Stages regularly run to Arrowhead Springs and also to 
Bear Valley, a mountain resort thirty miles from San Ber- 
nardino, where trout-fishing is reported to be had in Bear 
Valley Lake, and good shooting in the forest. Here is 
the reservoir of the Bear Valley Irrigation Company. 



204 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

From San Bernardino the railroad line runs due we.st 
to Los Angeles, and thence southeast to San Diego. The 
short line cuts off a portion of this corner, saving a dis- 
tance of forty-four tniles, and through cars to San Diego 
are commonly run over this intercepting line, which meets 
the other at Orange, thirty-one miles below Los Angeles. 

The traveler journeying direct to San Diego by way of 
the short line is referred to page 224. 

San Bernardino to Los Angeles. — Against the foot 
of the Sierra Madre or San Bernardino Range is nestled 
a chain of towns, most of which are small, and do not 
greatly differ in character. Some are the centers of 
colonies, simultaneous settlements of irrigable tracts, 
where by virtue of combined effort a greater development 
and one more profitable to the individual has resulted 
than would have been possible to unaided individual 
enterprise. All the California fruits in varying quantity 
are cultivated, and fruit-drying and packing, and wine- 
making, are common industries. 

Rialto.— Four miles from San Bernardino. Altitude, 1,201 feet. 
Population (precinct), 329. 

Etiwanda. — Eleven miles. Altitude, 1,143 feet. Population 
(precinct), 231. 

Rochester. — Fourteen miles. Altitude, 1,120 feet. 

Nortli Cueainong'a. — Sixteen miles. Altitude, 1,115 feet. 
Population (Cucamonga Precinct), 416. 

The village of Cucamonga is two miles distant upon 
the south. 

North Ontario. — Twenty miles. Altitude, 1,212 feet. Popu- 
lation (Ontario Precinct), 1,229. 

The street-car line through Euclid Avenue, connect- 
ing this station with the city of Ontario, seven miles dis- 
tant, is a gravity line. The mules employed to haul the 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST, 205 

cars up grade to the station coast back with the passen- 
gers on a truck that trails behind. Euclid Avenue 
extends for fifteen miles from Ontario toward Mount San 
Antonio, to the foot of the range. San Antonio Canon, 
in the foot-hills, is a much frequented spot for trout fisher- 
men and for summer campers, who are attracted by the 
wild beauty of the place, to which a lofty waterfall, a 
sycamore-shaded stream, and an abundance of flowers 
contribute. 

Clareiiioiit. — Twenty-fotir miles. Altitude, 1,143 feet. 
Seat of Pomona College. 

North Pomona.— Twenty.five miles. Altitude, 1,074 feet. 
Population (township), 5,010. 

Connected with the city of Pomona by a steam motor 
road and an electric railway. The different varieties of 
berries here receive special attention and are exported in 
large quantity. Pomona is also an active manufacturing 
city. 

liOrdsburg'. — Twenty-seven miles. Altitude, 1,041 feet. 
A Dunkard (German Baptist) colony. 

Sail Dinias. — Twenty-nine miles. Altitude, 941 feet. 
Glendora. — Thirty-three miles. Altitude, 747 feet. 
Azusa. — Thirty-six miles. Altitude, 616 feet. Population 
(township), 1,851. 

Diiarte. — Thirty-nine miles. Altitude, 497 feet. 

San Gabriel Canon, three miles distant, is a favorite 
mountain resort. 

Monrovia. — Forty-one miles. Altitude, 434 feet. Population 
(township), 2,557. 

Arcadia. — Forty-three miles. Altitude, 492 feet. 

Located on the Lucky Baldwin ranch. 



206 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



Santa Anita. — Forty-five miles. Altitude, 604 feet. 

Also on the Baldwin ranch, which, by reason of its 
large orchards, vineyards, wineries, and race-horse stables, 
is visited by many tourists. It is only five miles distant 
from Pasadena, and is included among the features com- 




SIERRA MADRE VILLA, SAN BERNARDINO VALLEY. 

prised in the many pleasant carriage-drives from that 
city. 

Chapman. — Forty-six miles. 

Lampntla Park. — Forty-seven miles. Altitude, 735 feet. 

The location of wineries whose aggregate annual prod- 
uct is nearly half a million gallons. Carriages from the 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 207 

Sierra Madre Villa Hotel meet trains at this station. San 
Gabriel Mission is three and a half miles away. 

Fair Oaks.— Forty-eight miles. 

Olivewood. — Forty-nine miles. 

Pasadena. — Chicago, 2,255 miles; St. Louis, 2,115 miles; Los 
Angeles, 10 miles. Altitude, 829 feet. Population, 4,882, township, 
7 222. 

Connected with Los Angeles by two steam railroads, 
over which frequent trains are run through the day. 

Pasadena is a city of residences, and the established 
winter home of many eastern people of wealth and cult- 
ure. It is one of the most attractive towns in California, 
a perpetually blooming garden. 

This is the point of departure for the most popular 
mountain trip in the State. 

Pasadena Mountain Railway. — More than five thou- 
sand tourists are said to have visited the summits of the 
Sierra Madre every year prior to the initiation of the 
mountain railway, while still the ascent was wholly made 
with burros. Mount Wilson, the site of the new Harvard 
Observatory, and Mount Lowe, each more than 6,000 feet 
above sea-level, lie just north of Pasadena. 

The Pasadena Mountain Railway, part of which is 
already completed and in operation, is projected to the 
pinnacle of Mount Lowe. The first section of this railway, 
from a connection with the Los Angeles Terminal Rail- 
road at Mountain Junction to Rubio Canon, is operated 
by electricity. At the foot of Echo Mountain, in Rubio 
Canon, begins the second section, a stout cable road, 
which climbs the steep incline to the Echo Mountain 
House, rising 1,400 feet vertically in 3,000 feet of progress. 

The Echo Mountain House is 3,500 feet above sea-level, 
upon the crest of the semi-detached mountain from which 
its name was derived. The slopes at the foot of this 



208 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



mountain, for hundreds of acres, are covered in season 
with the flaming blossoms of the poppy — a mass of solid 
color so vivid that it has for centuries served as a beacon 
by day for mariners fifty miles out at sea. The point was 
named Las Flores (The Flowers) by the sailors, and the 
name has become permanent. Flowers, vines, ferns and 
mosses, rugged rocks, innumerable woodland nooks, and 
cascades diversify the mountain slopes and levels within a 
few minutes' walk of the hotel, on every hand, and there 




ALT ADEN A. 



IS more than enough to reward a trip to the summit of 
Echo Mountain, even if one should not care to make the 
entire journey to the upper peaks of the Sierra Madre. 
Beyond that point, numerous bridle paths diverge and 
good trails lead to the summit. The enterprise includes 
the erection and maintenance of another hotel on the 
pinnacle of Mount Lowe. 

In Rubio Canon is a pavilion, where vocal and instru- 
mental concerts are given, and where moonlight parties 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 209 

from Pasadena, Los Angeles, and other neighboring cities 
and towns frequently resort. There is also a waterfall 
and a fountain illuminated at night by electric lights. 

Raymond. — Two miles west of Pasadena station. Altitude, 
748 feet. 

Named for the imposing Raymond Hotel, which stands 
upon an eminence near at hand, commanding a full cir- 
cular sweep of the valley. The hotel is visible from the 
train upon the left. 

Intermediate Stations : South Pasadena, Lincoln 
Park, Garvanza, Highland Park, Morgan, Water Street, 
Downey Avenue. 

Los Ang'eles.— Chicago, 2,265 miles; St. Louis, 2,125 miles; San 
Diego, 127 miles. Altitude, 270 feet. Population, 50,395. Junction 
with Southern Pacific Railroad and Los Angeles Terminal Railway. 

This is the principal city of Southern California its 
assessed wealth being $46,000,000. It has 90 miles of 
graded and graveled streets, 10 miles of paved streets, 80 
miles of cement sidewalks, and 90 miles of street railroads. 
The city is lighted entirely by electricity. The residences 
are of the cottage style, and are commonly surrounded by 
lawns and gardens, in which the orange, magnolia, date 
palm, cypress, pepper, and eucalyptus contrast their dif- 
ferent shades of green with the brilliant hues of ger- 
aniums, roses, and innumerable other cultivated flowers 
of choice variety. The hot-house blossoms of the East 
here overrun hedges and porch trellises, side by side w^ith 
the wisteria and scarlet passion-vine. These gardens 
contain flowering plants of one or another kind through- 
out the year, and outside the immediate business district 
the streets are shaded wdth the slender, graceful eucalyp- 
tus and the aesthetic drooping pepper tree. 

Los Angeles was founded September 7, 1781, by Don 

14 



210 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



Felipe de Neve, a Spanish Governor of California. Its 
name was originally Pueblo de la Reina de los Angeles 
(Town of the Queen of Angels), the present name afford- 
ing another example in derivatives, the city of the Qneen 
of Angels having become, by a simple contraction of the 
name, the property of the angels themselves. In 1822 the 
first Saxon was brought into the city, as prisoner of the 
Mexicans. He married into a Spanish family, and his 
example was frequently followed by American immigrants 




RESIDENCE, LOS ANGELES. 

in after years. Nine years later an overland outlet to the 
East was established in the Santa Fe Trail, and a large 
trade developed in consequence. In 1835 the city became 
the capital of California, and eleven years thereafter, on 
August 13, 1846, Commodore Stockton and Major Fre- 
mont raised here the American flag. In 1847 Fremont 
became Governor, and the house that served for his head- 
quarters still stands at the corner of Aliso and Los 
Angeles streets. Don Pio Pico, the Mexican Governor 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 211 

succeeded by Fremont, is still alive at an advanced age, 
and is a voting citizen of Los Angeles. 

In the last decade the population has increased about 
40,000. The area of the city proper is thirty-six square 
miles, and there are numerous orchards and vineyards 
within its limits. 

Los Angeles is chiefly modern, for its growth is recent, 
but there is much of Spanish atmosphere about it. In 
the suburbs Mexicans are numerous, and there is a 
Mexican quarter in the heart of the city, known as Sonora- 
town. One or two passable Mexican restaurants can be 
found, and those who have never ventured to taste " Cali- 
fornia chicken tamales " in the East, or tasting have 
repented, may find it worth while to patronize the street 
venders here, for the native mixture of green corn, 
chicken, olive, and chile, served hot in a corn-husk wrap- 
per, is really a palatable morsel. 

The population includes several thousand Chinese, 
who maintain their separate quarter in all the malo- 
dorous picturesqueness characteristic of American China- 
towns. 

For educational institutions Los Angeles has the 
University of Southern California, with colleges of music, 
letters, and medicine; St. Vincent's (Catholic) College 
for boys; Los Angeles College for young women, and 
the Branch State Normal School, besides many private 
schools and the regular public city schools. There are 
some sixty churches, five hospitals, two orphan asylums, 
two theaters, eighteen banks, a Chamber of Commerce, 
and half a dozen parks. 

The Kite-shaped Track. — The main line of the 
Southern California Railway (Santa Fe Route) between 
Los Angeles and San Bernardino, that portion of the line 
south from Los Angeles as far as Orange, and the short line 



212 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



between Orange and San Bernardino, form a rough ellipse 
intersecting the principal settlements of the region. East- 
ward from San Bernardino another belt has been con- 
structed, and the two together form a cross-belt not unlike a 
figure 8. Over this comprehensive circuit, known as 
the Kite-shaped Track, regular daily trains are run from 




A LOS ANGELES HOME. 



Los Angeles in both directions, each train following the 
outline of the figure and returning to Los Angeles without 
duplicating any of the journey except for the loop-cross- 
ing at San Bernardino. The Panorama Trains, as these are 
called, thus make a run of i6o miles through the fairest 
horticultural region of Southern California, for the accom- 
modation of tourists. 

The stations on the loop east of San Bernardino, a 



NKW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 213 

circuit of twenty-five miles, are Victoria, Drew, Gla- 
DYSTA, Redlands, Eastberne, Mentone, Aplin, East 
Highlands, Base Line, Moling, Highland, Asylum, Del 
Rosa, Arrowhead and Highland Junction. 

Redlands. — San Bernardino, nine miles. Altitude, 1,349 feet. 
Population, 1,904. 

This is the largest of the towns named, and lies at the 
end of the tipper Santa Ana Valley. Although only six 
years old, its assessed valuation is $2,000,000. The locality 
is particularly adapted to the culture of the orange and 
the raisin grape. Besides fruit growing and packing, the 
local industries include the manufacture of irrigating pipe, 
lumber, sashes and doors, and feed. 

Arrowhead.— San Bernardino, four miles. Altitude, 1,226 feet. 

Famed for the numerous hot mineral springs, already 
mentioned, which issue from the mountain side, at an 
elevation of 2,000 feet. 

Carriages from Arrowhead Springs regularly meet 
trains at this station. 

Asylum. — San Bernardino, seven miles. Altitude, 1,285 feet. 

Named for the State Insane Asylum, which at this 
point overlooks the Santa Ana Valley from a mesa eleva- 
tion. 

Hig-liland.— San Bernardino, eight miles. Altitude, 1,315 feet. 

A young town whose natural advantages are similar to 
those of Redlands. 

LOS ANGELES TO SANTA MONICA, REDONDO, AND SANTA 

CATALINA. 

Intermediate Stations : Ballona Junction, Nadeau 
Park, Central Avenue, Slauson, Wildesin, Hyde Park, 
Centinela, Inglewood, Mesmer, Machado, South Santa 
Monica. 



214 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

Santa Monica. — Los Angeles, 21 miles. Population, 1,580; 
township, 2,327. 

An attractive beach resort. Frequent trains are run 
from Los Angeles daily, passing through a country scat- 
teringly settled but nearly all under cultivation. The 
Southern California Railway branch to Santa Monica and 
Redondo diverges from the main line just outside of Los 
Angeles, on the south, at Ballona Junction. 

Redondo Beach. — Los Angeles, 22 miles. Population, 603. 

Another much frequented seaside resort ten miles 
beyond Inglewood, at which point the lines to Santa 
Monica and Redondo diverge, the latter through Wiseburn 
and Arena. 

Santa Catalina Island. — This island, one of the 
Channel group, lies about twenty miles off the coast, 
south of Redondo, between which point and Santa Cata- 
lina steamers ply three times a week, in summer, in connec- 
tion with trains to and from Los Angeles. There is usually 
no regular steamer service in winter, but special trips are 
made for parties who desire the accommodation. Like 
the other channel islands, this is the portion of a mount- 
ain cap unsubmerged by the sea, above whose level 
its highest peaks rise more than 3,000 feet. Its shores 
are for the most part precipitous cliffs, which here and 
there give place to semicircular beaches. One of 
these, on the inner rim of a beautiful little crescent 
harbor, is called Avalon. This is the most populous of the 
summer pleasure resorts in Southern California, and 
although the throng of campers is not present in winter, 
it is only because that is not the period of vacation from 
shop and ofhce. 

It is an idyllic spot, more equable than any portion of 
the mainland, in consequence of the environment of the 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



215 



sea. The air is gentle by day and night throughout the 
year. It is a perfect spot for bathing, the shore of sand 
and pebble shelving gradually off into water so pellucid 
that through an incredible depth every weed and shell is 
clearly distinguishable upon the bottom, and brown and 
blood-red fishes may be seen swimming seventy-five feet 
below. In the summer season it is a famous fishery. 
Jewfish weighing 300 and 400 pounds are frequently taken 
with a hand-line, and are abundant. The capture of the 




REDONDO BEACH. 

jewfish is more exciting sport than tarpon fishing, if any 
can be, because of the prodigious weight and strength of 
the former. Boats are sometimes dragged for a long dis- 
tance before the jewfish will surrender. The yellowtail 
ranks next as a game fish, and is highly valued for the 
table. It reaches a weight of fifty potmds, and the waters 
are at times churned into acres of foam by schools of yel- 
lowtail. Barracuda, which are a sort of cousin to the 
bluefish of the Atlantic, are also plentiful, besides Span- 
ish mackerel and the usual smaller fry of ocean, some 



216 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

of which are peculiar to the Pacific. Flying fish are so 
common as to attract little notice after the novelty of 
first acquaintance. In crossing from Redondo to Avalon 
they shoot from under the bows of the steamer like 
startled birds from covert, and skim the surface of the 
water like swallows for a long distance. The flying fish 
does not ordinarily rise far above the water unless attracted 
by a light at night, when it can clear the hull of a small 
vessel, although it often falls on board. But it easily 
covers a horizontal distance of at least 500 yards at 
pleasure. Sharks and whales are also occasionally sighted 
between the island and the mainland. 

In the interior of Santa Catalina, which is about thirty 
miles long and from a half-mile to nine miles broad, wild 
goats are numerous. 

The island has few permanent residents, although as 
many as 3,000 visitors are congregated in summer. Its 
area is chiefly devoted to sheep grazing, the water supply 
being too small to encourage agriculture, even if its posi- 
tion at a distance from markets did not operate to disad- 
vantage in that particular. 

A point a dozen miles north of Avalon has been chosen 
by the proprietors for the site of a new watering place, 
whose development in the near future will shorten the 
journey from the mainland by just that distance. 

Carrier-pigeon service between Avalon and the main- 
land has recently been instituted, for the convenience of 
men who desire to retain prompt business communication 
with the outside world while stopping on the island. 

Los Angeles to San Diego. 

Ballona Junction. — Two miles. 

Point of divergence of trains from Los Angeles to Port 
Ballona, Redondo, and Santa Monica beaches. 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 217 

Intermediate Stations: Bandini, Rivera, Los Nietos. 
Santa Fe Springs. — Thirteen miles. Altitude, 159 feet. 

A health resort. Whittier, the seat of a State Reform 
School, joins this town upon the east. 

Intermediate Stations: Northam, Fullerton. 

Anaheim. — Twenty-seven miles. Altitude, 164 feet. Popula- 
tion, 1,273; township, 2,917. 

A prosperous German colony. 

Orange. — Los Angeles, 31 miles; San Diego, 96 miles. Alti- 
tude, 178 feet. Population, 866; township. 2,721. 

Junction with line from San Bernardino direct. A cen- 
ter of orange and grape culture. 

Santa Ana. — Thirty-four miles. Altitude, 135 feet. Popula- 
tion, 3,628; township, 4,220. 

Junction with the Santa Ana Railroad to Newport, on 
the coast. 

Intermediate Stations: Irvine, Modjeska. 

Modjeska was named for Madame Helen Modjeska, the 
actress, whose ranch is at the head of Santiago Canon, 
some miles east of the station. In the vicinity of that 
canon silver mines are operated. 

El Toro.— Forty-seven miles. Altitude, 428 feet. 

Point of departure by stage for Laguna and Arch 
Beach, seven miles. At Arch Beach the sandstone cliffs 
have been carved by the tide into arches and caverns, and 
large shells are abundant. 

Capi.strano.— Los Angeles, 56 miles; Chicago ( short line), 
2,277 miles; St. Louis, 2,137 miles; San Diego, 71 miles. Altitude, 
138 feet. Poptdation (San Juan Township), 801. 

The gaunt ruins upon the left are those of the mission 
San Juan Capistrano, founded in 1776. In its original 



218 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

completeness it boasted a tower 120 feet high, which an 
earthquake toppled over in 181 2, killing some thirty of 
the congregation which was assembled at the time. In 
1818 a pirate named Bouchard landed on the coast three 
miles away and with his band terrorized the entire com- 
munity for several days. While the inhabitants hid them- 
selves in the coverts of the Rio Trabuco, Bouchard and 
his men caroused in the mission and despoiled it of most 
of its portable treasures, in which these establishments 
were, in their prime, very rich. A portion of the struct- 
ure is still used by the resident Mexicans for a chapel. 

Before the era of railroads, even after the decadence 
of the mission, San Juan Capistrano was a much more 
active town than it is now. A larger population was 
gathered here around the nucleus, and it was a halting 
place for the stages and all the vehicles of trade between 
Los Angeles and San Diego. But despite its forsaken 
air — perhaps the more because of it — it is an extremely 
interesting spot, and tourists not infrequently spend days 
and even weeks here pleasurably. There is a comfortable 
hotel, the Mendelson House, and apart from the powerful 
poetic charm of the ruins, reminiscent of a time when 
monks, soldiers, and Indians were the only inhabitants, 
and apart from incidental glimpses of the life of the 
Mexicans, who are descended from soldier and Indian, 
the little valley is full of natural beauties, and its fascina- 
tion increases with familiarity. A few miles farther iip 
the valley are still older ruins of the rudiments of the 
mission first designed for San Juan Capistrano, begun 
before the present site was determined upon. 

A quarter-century back there were visible at Capistrano 
extensive ruins of covered masonry aqueducts, for the 
conveyance of water to be used for irrigation. The village 
is said to be honey-combed with them, although they are 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



219 



not now easily discoverable. The fact is mentioned as 
showing the greater comparative industrial activity of the 
town in a former time. Even so late as twenty-five years 
ago the population was probably four or five times 
greater. After the departure of the mission fathers the 
greater part of the appurtenant lands appear to have been 
acquired by an Englishman, Mr. John Forster, some 
of whose descendants still live here. For twenty miles 
beyond, on both sides of the railroad, his enormous ranch 




SAN LUIS KEY MISSION. 



extended, 
divided. 



It has, in recent years, been more or less sub- 



San Juan. — Fifty-nine miles. 

A favorite camping spot by the sea. One of the 
salients of the promontory upon the right is Dana's Point, 
referred to in the following extract from Richard Henry 
Dana's " Two Years Before the Mast "; 



220 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

Coasting along on the quiet shore of the Pacific, we came to 
anchor* in twenty fathoms water, almost out at sea, as it were, and 
directly abreast of a steep hill which overhung the water, and 
was twice as high as our royalmast-head. We had heard much of 
this place from the Lagoda's crew, who said it was the worst place 
in California. The shore is rocky, and directly exposed to the south- 
east, so that vessels are obliged to slip and run for their lives on the 
first sign of a gale; and, late as it was in the season, we got up our 
slip-rope and gear, though we meant to stay only twenty-four hours. 
We pulled the agent ashore and were ordered to wait for him while 
he took a circuitous way round the hill to the Mission, which was hid- 
den behind it. We were glad of the opportunity to examine this 
singular place, and hauling the boat up, and making her well fast, 
took different directions up and down the beach, to explore it. 

San Juan is the only romantic spot on the coast. The country 
here for several miles is high table-land, running boldly to the shore 
and breaking off in a steep cliff, at the foot of which the waters of 
the Pacific are constantly dashing. For several miles the water 
w^ashes the very base of the hill, or breaks upon ledges and frag- 
ments of rocks which run out into the sea. Just where we landed 
was a small cove, or bight, which gave us, at high tide, a few square 
feet of sand-beach between the sea and bottom of the hill. This 
was the only landing-place. Directly before us rose the perpendicu- 
lar height of four or five hundred feet. How we were to get hides 
down, or goods up, upon the table-land on which the Mission was 
situated, was more than we could tell. The agent had taken a long 
circuit, and yet had frequently to jump over breaks and climb steep 
places, in the ascent. No animal but a man or monkey could get up 
it. However, that was not our lookout; and, knowing that the agent 
would be gone an hour or more, we strolled about, picking up shells, 
and following the sea where it tumbled in, roaring and spouting, 
among the crevices of the great rocks. What a sight, thought I, 
must this be in a southeaster! The rocks were as large as 
those of Nahant or Newport, but, to my eye, more grand and broken. 
Besides, there was a grandeur in everything around which gave a 
solemnity to the scene, a silence and solitariness which affected every 
part! Not a human being but ourselves for miles, and no sound 
heard but the pulsations of the great Pacific! and the great steep hill 
rising like a wall and cutting us off from all the world but the 

♦May, 1835. 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 221 

" world of waters "! I separated myself from the rest, and sat down 
on a rock, just where the sea ran in and formed a fine spouting horn. 
Compared with the plain, dull sand-beach of the rest of the coast, 
this grandeur was as refreshing as a great rock in a weary land. It 
was almost the first time that I had been positively alone — free from 
the sense that human beings were at my elbow, if not talking with 
me — since I had left home. My better nature returned strong 
upon me. Everything was in accordance with my state of feeling, 
and I experienced a glow of pleasure at finding that what of poetry 
and romance I ever had in me had not been entirely deadened by the 
laborious life, with its paltry, vulgar associations, which I had been 
leading. Nearly an hour did I sit, almost lost in the luxury of this 
entire new scene of the play in which I had been so long acting, 
when I was aroused by the distant shouts of my companions, and 
saw that they were collecting together, as the agent had made his 
appearance, on his way back to our boat. 

We pulled aboard, and found the long-boat hoisted out, and 
nearly laden with goods; and, after dinner, we all went on shore in 
the quarter-boat, with the long-boat in tow. As we drew in, we 
descried an ox-cart and a couple of men standing directly on the 
brow of the hill, and having landed, the captain took his way round 
the hill, ordering me and one other to follow him. We followed, 
picking our way out, and jumping and scrambling up, walking over 
briers and prickly pears, until we came to the top. Here the country 
stretched out for miles, as far as the eye could reach, on a level, table 
surface, and the only habitation in sight w^as the small white Mission 
of San Juan Capistrano, with a few Indian huts about it, standing in 
a small hollow, about a mile from w^here we were. Reaching the 
brow of the hill, w^here the cart stood, we found several piles of hides, 
and Indians sitting around them. One or two other carts were 
coming slowly on from the Mission, and the captain told us to begin 
and throw the hides down. This, then, was the way they were to be 
got down, thrown down, one at a time, a distance of 400 feet! This 
was doing the business on a great scale. Standing on the edge of 
the hill, and looking down the perpendicular height, the sailors — 

" That walked upon the beach 
Appeared like mice; and our tall anchoring bark 
Diminished to her cock; her cock a buoy 
Almost too small for sight." 

Down this height we pitched the hides, throwing them as far out 



222 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

into the air as we could; and as they were all large, stiff, and doubled, 
like the cover of a book, the wind took them, and they swayed out 
and eddied about, plunging and rising in the air, like a kite when it 
has broken its string. As it was now low tide there was no danger 
of their falling into the water; and, as fast as they came to ground, 
the men below picked them up, and taking them on their heads, 
walked off with them to the boat. It was really a picturesque sight; 
the great height, the scaling of the hides, and the continual walking 
to and fro of the men, who looked like mites on the beach. This was 
the romance of hide droghing! 

Some of the hides lodged in cavities under the bank and out of 
our sight, being directly under us; but by pitching other hides in the 
same direction we succeeded in dislodging them. Had they remained 
there, the captain said he should have sent on board for a couple of 
pairs of long halyards, and got some one to go down for them. It 
was said that one of the crew of an English brig went down in the 
same way a few years before. We looked over and thought it would 
not be a welcome task, especially for a few paltry hides; but no one 
knows what he will do until he is called upon ; for six months after- 
ward I descended the same place by a pair of topgallant studding- 
sail halyards to save half a dozen hides which had lodged there. 

Intermediate Stations: San Onofre, Las Flores, Los 
Angeles Junction. 

Oceansicle. — Los Angeles, 85 miles; Chicago (short line), 2,306 
miles; St. Louis, 2,166 miles; San Diego, 42 miles. Altitude, 44 feet. 
Population, 427. 

Situated upon a bluff by the seaside. Connection with 
branch lines to Escondido and De Luz. 

OcEANSiDE TO EscoNDiDO. — This branch runs to the southeast, 
through the valleys of San Marcos and Escondido, old Mexican 
grants. 

Escondido. — Twenty-two miles from Oceanside, 640 feet above 
sea-level. The township possesses a population of 1,200. 

Raisins are the chief product of the valley. One of the colleges 
of the University of Southern California is located here. 

Intermediate Stations : Escondido Junction, Loma Alta, Vista, 
Buena, San Marcos. 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 223 

OcEANSiDE TO De Luz. — A portioii of the original Temecula 
Canon line from Oceanside to San Bernardino. 

Intermediate Stations : Los Angeles Junction, Ysidora. 

An example of the old-time Mexican life is offered the tourist in 
the great ranch-houses of the Santa Margarita Ranch, 230,000 acres 
in extent, near De Luz, which is thirteen miles distant from Ocean- 
side, 147 feet above the sea. 

Intermediate Stations: Escondido Junction, Carls- 
bad, La Costa, Leucadia, Encinitas, Del Mar, Sorrento, 
Linda Vista, Selwyn, Ladrillo, Morena. 

There are noted mineral waters at Carlsbad. From 
Morena the bay of San Diego, the peninsula of Coronado 
and Point Loma may be seen. 

Oldtowii. — Three and one-half miles north of San Diego 
proper. 

The first Spanish settlement in California was made 
here, this being the original site of San Diego, founded in 
1769. It is located at the mouth of the San Diego River. 
Here are the foundations of the first mission church and 
the presidio, begun in the same year. The mission was 
in 1774 removed six miles up the valley of the San Diego 
River, known as Mission Valley, where its ruins still 
stand, near old olive trees and huge palms that were 
planted by the mission fathers. The old mission bells are 
lashed to a cross-bar behind the Catholic chapel, at Old- 
town, where there is also an ancient burying-ground and 
many an adobe ruin of former dwellings. Here, also, 
stands the house which figures as the marriage-place of 
Ramona in Helen Hunt Jackson's well-known novel. 

San Dieg'O. — Los Angeles, 127 miles; Chicago (short line), 
2,348 miles; St. Louis, 2,208 miles. Population, 16,159. 

National City. — Five and one-half miles beyond San Diego. 
Population, 1,353. End of the Santa Fe Route on the south. 



224 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

SAN BERNARDINO TO SAN DIEGO, VIA SHORT LINE 

Coltoii. — San Bernardino, three miles. Altitude, 977 feet. 
Population, 1,315. Junction with Southern Pacific Railroad between 
Yuma and Los Angeles. 

The location of one of the largest fruit-packing estab- 
lishments in Southern California. Its other industries 
include the quarrying of marble and building-stone, lime- 
burning, and flour-milling. 

East Riverside. — San Bernardino, six miles; Riverside, three 
miles. Altitude, 943 feet. Population, 330. 

Junction with branch lines to San Jacinto and Temecula 
on the south. 

East Riverside to Temecula. — The line to Temecula extended 
through the remarkable canon of that name to Oceanside until, in 
1S90, immense wash-outs carried away many miles of the road in 
and near the canon, which portion has never been rebuilt. 

Intermediate Stations: Box Springs, Alessandro, Perris, Elsi- 
nore, Wildomar, Murrieta, and Linda Rosa. 

Elsinore. — Altitude 1,281 feet. 

Contains a lake that covers a dozen square miles, hot mineral 
springs, much resorted to by rheumatic invalids, and deposits of gold, 
silver, asbestos, tin, iron, coal, and fire-clay. 

Temecula. — Altitude, 1,001 feet. Forty-five miles from East 
Riverside. 

Is the site of an ancient Indian village at the mouth of the canon. 

East Riverside to San Jacinto. The Temecula road is followed 
as far as Perris, eighteen miles, at which point a branch diverges to 
San Jacinto, thirty-eight miles from East Riverside. This is a trad- 
ing and shipping point of considerable importance, with lumber 
manufactories and lime quarries. The Lake Hemet dam, under con- 
struction, is intended to supply water enough to irrigate 80,000 acres 
of land. Here also are hot springs. Mount San Jacinto, 10,894 f^et 
high, is a magnificent mountain, and possesses a quasi -romantic 
interest for the numerous admirers of Alessandro and Ramona. 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



225 



Strawberry Valley is a favorite summer resort, at an elevation of 
6,000 feet. The altitude of San Jacinto is 1,535 feet. The population 
of the town is 661, and of the township 1,192. 

Riverside.— Chicago, 2,214 miles; St. Louis, 2,074 miles; San 
Diego, 134 miles. Altitude, 875 feet. Population, 4,683. 

In 1872 the site of this city was a sheep ranch. In 
1892 its assessed valuation was more than $4,000,000. It 
lies within a small half-circle of foot-hills, in plain view of 
the San Bernardino Range, whose snow-draped summits 




MAGNOLIA AVENUE, RIVERSIDE. 

present in winter a remarkable contrast with the almost 
tropical splendor of its vegetation and fruitage. Its 
Magnolia Avenue is world-renowned — a magnificent 
double driveway beginning a short distance otitside the 
business center and extending for seven miles in a 
straight line between rows of eucalyptus, pepper, and 
occasionally magnolia and palm trees. From this avenue 
private drives lead to adjacent mansion homes, in the 

15 



236 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

midst of a wealth of golden fruit and ornamental shrub- 
bery. There is not an idle acre of land. Orange groves 
or orchards of almond, peach, pear, apricot, fig, and wal- 
nut are everywhere to be seen. It has highly perfected 
systems of irrigation, comprising 200 miles of ditches and 
pipe-lines, with more in process of construction. 

Riverside is the largest orange-shipping point in Cali- 
fornia, producing more than half a million boxes of 
oranges annually. In raisin-making it is second only to 
Fresno, and in addition raises large quantities of deciduous 
fruits and general farm products. Many establishments 
are required for handling its enormous product, packing 
oranges, curing lemons, and canning deciduous fruits, 
keeping in cold storage. 

Intermediate Stations: Pachappa, Casa Blanca, 
Arlington, Alvord. 

South Riverside.— Fifteen miles southwest of Riverside. 
Altitude, 603 feet. Population (precinct), 556. 

The Circle Colony. Besides fruit raising, its industries 
include the manufacture of sewer-pipe, terra cotta, brick, 
and fertilizers; and porphyry and gypsum are quarried. 
The Temescal tin mines are situated seven miles east of 
South Riverside. 

The road crosses the San Jacinto stream near South 
Riverside, and follows the course of the Santa Ana from 
Yorba to Olive. 

Intermediate Stations: Rincon, Gypsum, Yorba, 
Olive. 

Orange.— Chicago, 2,252 miles; St. Louis, 2,112 miles; Los 
Angeles, 31 miles; San Diego, 96 miles. Junction with main line 
between Los Angeles and San Diego. 

For remainder of the journey to San Diego see page 217. 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 227 

San Diego. — The bay of San Diego is twelve miles 
long, divided from the ocean by the low, slender, north- 
ward-extending peninsula of Coronado, and the bold 
headland of Point Loma, which overlaps it on the north, 
the narrow entrance to the bay lying between these two. 
It is as placid as a mill-pond, and as beautiful as an inlet 
of the Mediterranean. The city lies upon its eastern 
shore, covering the narrow level of its rim and climbing 
the slopes of a mesa that here forms a wall between the 
sea and the valley of the San Diego River. It will begin 
to be a great and wealthy city when the problem of exten- 
sive irrigation of the immediately surrounding country 
has been solved and the enormous areas of the county 
have been fairly directed toward general productiveness. 
The development of the resources of the soil is recognized 
as the essential preliminary to urban prosperity, and every 
succeeding year marks new development in agriculture 
and fruit raising upon the rich lands that form the sur- 
roundings of the city. In the meantime its chief interest 
to the tourist lies in its superb climate, its manifold and 
diverse beauties and attractions, and the examples of idyllic 
and prosperous rural life which its environs afford. Cali- 
fornia can boast no more magnificent or more profitable 
orchards and vineyards, in proportion to their size, than are 
found in its contiguous valleys, although their number is 
as yet too small for the maintenance of a great commercial 
center. 

It is perfectly adapted for a sojourn. A good deal of 
business must necessarily be transacted in a city of 16,000 
permanent inhabitants, but this fact will not obtrusively 
impress itself upon the casual visitor. It is quiet, restful, 
dreamy, picturable in a figure half-dozing amid the 
fragrant odor of flowers upon the shore of its blessed 
bay. 



■228 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



Aside from the mere seduction of out-of-door wander- 
ing in such an idyllic spot, there are many special sights 
to be seen on the shore, in the valleys, and among the 




UNITED STATES AND MEXICO BOUNDARY-LINE MONUMENT, NEAR SAN DIEGO. 

hills. A drive to Oldtown and thence up the Mission 
Valley, returning over the mesa, will embrace the remains 
of the ancient regime. At Oldtown are the ruins of 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 229 

the first of the missions, founded July i6, 1769, with due 
ceremonial, and of the old presidio, or garrison, where a 
military force of seventy soldiers, with small arms and a 
few cannon, were quartered for the protection of the 
pueblo against Indian uprisings. One such uprising took 
place a few weeks after the beginning of work upon the 
mission, a boy being killed and a few men wounded on 
the side of the Spaniards, who, to the credit of their 
good judgment, and doubtless to their humanity, did not 
attempt to punish the Indians severely, but sought to 
subdue them without recourse to arms. For a full half- 
century after the settlement of San Diego nearly the 
entire population, except for those directly engaged in 
missionary labors, lived either within the presidio or close 
at hand. In 1800 its population numbered 167 soldiers 
and their families, and in 1821 there were only five houses 
in old San Diego. In 1837 the presidio was abandoned by 
the military. The chief business of the locality was the 
exportation of hides, and this was at one time the center 
of this traffic for the entire California coast. 

Old paintings and statuary and the old mission bells 
are to be seen at the Catholic chapel, and at the foot of 
Presidio Hill stand two lofty and venerable palm trees, 
fenced about for their preservation, which are a legacy of 
the old era. In 1774 the mission was removed to a point 
six miles up the valley, where some seventy Indian 
rancherias were collected, the spot being known to them 
as Nipiguay. Three months after, these Indians, 1,000 
strong, attacked and burned the mission, several of the 
Spaniards being killed and many seriously wounded 
in the battle. After two years the undaunted fathers 
began a new mission on the same site, which was com- 
pleted in 1784. After its final abandonment in conse- 
quence of the act of secularization, the edifice rapidly 



230 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

fell into decay, and to-day only tottering fragments 
remain of a once imposing structure, by the side of which 
an Indian school has been erected. The orchard of olive 
trees, with a few intermingled palms and pomegranates, 
in the alluvial valley in front of the eminence on which 
the mission stood, has outlived the edifice itself. It is still 
in bearing, and is the stock from which a vast number of 
olive trees in California have been propagated. At the 
time the missions were broken up, this one of San Diego 
possessed some 28,000 cattle, horses, and sheep, and raised 
large quantities of w^ieat and barley, in addition to fruits 
and other farm crops. In 1846 a United States military 
post was established at this port, and the troops were 
quartered in the deserted mission for ten years. 

Coronado is reached by ferry, and the beach lies at the 
end of a short ride by steam motor across the widest part 
of the peninsula. It is also connected with the mainland 
by railroad. Coronado Beach is a dozen miles in length, 
a wide, sweeping shore of white sand looking off to the 
horizon of the Pacific, which is unbroken save by the 
distant peaks of the Coronado Islands. In the space of 
half a dozen years what was originally a sterile waste, 
tangled with chaparral, has become one of the greatest of 
American seaside resorts. Numerous handsome resi- 
dences have been built, grounds have been improved, 
thousands of tropical trees have been planted, avenues 
have been constructed and lined with palms and hedges 
of cypress and marguerites, parks and gardens have been 
created, and the peninsula has become a town by itself, 
populous and beautiful. The center of attraction is of 
course the Hotel del Coronado. There are actually in the 
world but few hostelries worthy of any comparison with it 
in point of magnificence, beauty, and attractiveness. It 
is built around an immense court, which is a tropical gar- 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 231 

den of rare shrubs and flowers, upon which the inner 
rooms of the hotel open by way of a broad encircling 
balcony. Toward the sea the g-alleries of each story are 
encased in glass, and are used as sunning-places by 
invalids and others who do not enjoy the ocean breeze. 
The entire structure, including the court, covers four and 
one-half acres, and accommodates 750 guests. The main 
dining-room has a floor area of 10,000 square feet, unsup- 
ported by a single pillar, and the ball-room a floor area of 
11,000 feet. It is furnished throughout with the utmost 
magnificence. The Hotel del Coronado stands upon the 
edge of the beach, almost within reach of the waves, and 
commands charming views of ocean, bay, and coast, and 
mountain ranges across the Mexican border. 

There is little difference here between summer and 
winter. The average number of rainy days in the year 
is thirty-four, and in the equable temperature much of 
the flora of both temperate and tropic zones is continually 
in bloom. There is a large conservatory where, under 
glass, the most delicate of rare tropical plants are reared in 
great profusion; a bath-house containing swimming tanks 
of warm salt water for those who do not care to indulge 
in surf bathing; a museum, an ostrich farm, a labyrinth, 
a race-track, and many other special devices for diversi- 
fication of the pleasure of guests, and all the incidental 
attractions in and near San Diego are conveniently 
accessible. 

Ocean Beach and Pacific Beach lie on the north, a short 
distance outside of San Diego, and Point Loma and its 
light-house are worth a visit, which may be made by car- 
riage around the bay. La Jolla Park is a uniquely beauti- 
ful bit of coast thirteen miles from San Diego, reached by 
a pleasant carriage drive or by way of the San Diego & 
Pacific Beach Motor Railroad, and a short stage ride beyond. 



232 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



Here the soft sandstone walls of a long bluff have been 
water-worn into numerous connecting caverns, which may- 
be entered dry-shod only at very low tide. The erosion 
of the waves has wrought rock forms of striking appear- 
ance, and has sculptured the remaining faces of the cliff 
walls with delicately beautiful designs. Mosses, sea-anem- 
ones, crabs, and abalones are very plentiful. The water 
is exceedingly transparent, and the brilliant flashing of 




LA JOLLA CAVES, NEAR SAN DIEGO. 

golden fish that swim in schools near the shore adds to the 
novelty of the spot. 

El Cajon Valley lies fifteen miles northeast from San 
Diego, and is reached over the San Diego, Cuymaca & 
Eastern Railway. It is one of the largest and richest val- 
leys in the immediate vicinity of San Diego. The upper 
San Diego River flows through it, and the town of Lake- 
side stands near the river and by the side of a beautiful 
sheet of water known as Linda Lake. Allison, Cowles, 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 233 

Riverview, and Foster's are other stations in this valley. 
One hundred and forty-five car-loads of raisins were 
shipped from El Cajon Valley in 1891, and besides the 
vineyards of raisin and table g-rapes, thousands of acres 
are covered with fruit trees. This has also been for many 
years a large wheat-producing region. The waters of the 
San Diego Flume Company pass through it. 

National City is conveniently reached by railroad, or 
by a drive of four miles. Here are large olive orchards 
and manufactories of olive-oil. In the highly cultivated 
Paradise Valley, at National City, are many groves of 
orange and lemon, the quality of whose fruit is unsur- 
passed. 

From San Diego the National City & Otay Railway 
extends through National City, Chula Vista, and Otay 
City to within a few hundred yards of the little Mexican 
village of Tia Juana, which lies just across the border, 
beyond the stream of the same name. A trip to Tia 
Juana is one of the popular excursions of tourists while in 
San Diego. The railroad ride is an enjoyable one of 
fifteen miles, after which comes a short walk or coach- 
ride, the latter being hardly worth the trouble of entering 
the vehicle, from the railway terminus to the village. 
Once arrived there is little to be seen besides a shop filled 
with Mexican curios and a few swart soldiers lounging 
about a custom house. It is better to take a few hours 
more time for the excursion and drive from Tia Juana to 
the seashore at Point of Rocks, where some really good 
scenery lies. The Boundary Monument also may be vis- 
ited by a three-mile drive from Tia Juana. The return 
trip on the National City & Otay Railway includes a side- 
ride to Sweetwater Dam, which lies east of San Diego in a 
beautiful valley among the mesa lands. This is a reservoir 
covering 700 acres on the Sweetwater River, and contains 
six thousand million gallons of water. 



234 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

The trip to Tia Juana and the Sweetwater Dam by rail- 
road consumes the greater part of a day. 

Los Angeles to Santa Barbara. — Santa Barbara is 
reached over the Southern Pacific Railroad from Los 
Angeles, its main line being followed as far as Saugus, 
thirty-two miles, altitude 1,159 feet, at which point a 
branch line to the great seaside resort strikes off west- 
ward. South of Saugus there is little of interest by the 
way, except the long tunnel (altitude, 1,401 feet) just 
below Newhall (altitude, 1,265 feet). But the branch line 
speedily enters the fertile and most attractive valley of 
the Santa Clara River. This valley, named for its river, 
must not be confounded with the Santa Clara Valley 
which is most commonly spoken of in connection with 
California. The latter lies only a few miles southeast of 
San Francisco, the city of San Jose in its midst. The one 
now under consideration lies along the way for half the 
distance from Saugus to Santa Barbara, and is about forty 
miles long. Camulos, forty-seven miles from Los 
Angeles, is the first point of interest. Camulos Ranch, at 
this point, has become quasi-historic as the original home 
of Ramona. Orchards of orange and olive surround the 
buildings and screen them with foliage. 

Santa Paula. — Sixty-six miles from Los Angeles. Population, 
1,047. 

Rich in most of the characteristic Southern California 
fruits. 

Saticoy. — Seventy-three miles. Population, 218. 
Ventura. — Eighty-three miles. Population, 2,820. 

Ventura is a contraction of San Buenaventura, the 
name of the old mission town, whose church is still in a 
fair state of preservation. This is an oil-center, besides 
exporting very large quantities of grain, lima beans, 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 235 

potatoes, flour, wool, butter, hides, asphaltum, etc. It is 
a seaport. 

Fifteen miles north of Ventura lies the village of 
Nordhoff, population, 244, in the Ojai Valley, which was 
made famous by the writings of Charles Nordhoff. The 
Nordhoff Hotel stages meet trains at Ventura. This 
beautiful valley is snugly nestled among the mountains, 
and is much in favor with tourists as a sojourning place, 
because of its fruitfulness, its diverse scenery, the Matilija 
vSprings, and the gentle climate. 

From Ventura the road closely follows the shore-line, 
on the edge of a narrow terrace between mountain and 
sea. 

Carpinteria. — One hundred miles. 

Montecito. — One hundred and seven miles, 

Santa Barbara. — One hundred and ten miles. Population, 

5.864. 

Facing southward toward the sea, the city rises to the 
foot of the Santa Inez Mountains, which form a protecting 
back-wall from three to five thousand feet high, whose 
nearest pass on the west is the picturesque chasm of the 
Gaviota thirty-six miles distant. Facing thus, and 
sheltered thus, Santa Barbara knows but a slight change 
of temperature, the mean monthly figures for a period of 
thirteen years ranging between 55° and 71°, and the tem- 
perature of its sea-water varying only half a dozen degrees 
in the twelve months. 

It is equally a resort of the invalid and the pleasure- 
seeker. Surf-bathing in California is not much practiced 
in winter, although the temperature of the sea is then 
much higher than at some of the Atlantic watering- 
places in summer, but at Santa Barbara there is hardly a 
day in the year when some enthusiast may not be seen 
taking a dip in the surf. The beach is smooth and firm, 



236 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

and is bordered by a boulevard, both much frequented by 
carriages and equestrians. There are also bold cliff 
points, like Sentinel Rock, overlooking the beach and the 
brine, where idlers love to lounge and fishermen angle for 
surf-fish. There are innumerable attractive drives, and 
saddle-horses are much in request. A lofty mesa, covered 
with live oaks, overlooks the town, and the side streets 
and avenues are densely shaded with ornamental trees. 
Cottages are buried in foliage and covered with clamber- 
ing vines in bloom. In the profusion of blossoms the rose 
is conspicuous, one private garden alone containing more 
than 200 choice varieties of this flower. In April of 
every year a flower carnival is held, whose climax is a 
unique procession of all sorts of fanciful equipages elabo- 
rately decked with flowers and filled with joyous men, 
women, and children in gala attire. While Eastern cities 
are yet ice-bound, the streets of Santa Barbara are strewn 
with exquisite cultivated flowers, which are held so 
cheaply that they are not considered worth the trouble of 
picking up. Ten thousand fine roses have been used on 
these occasions to decorate a single vehicle. 

The Santa Barbara Mission, situated in the northern 
part of the city, nearly two miles from the beach, has 
been preserved with care, and is regularly used for relig- 
ious service. This is naturally one of the most noted 
objects of interest to the newcomer, but there are scores 
of other specific attractions, among which may be men- 
tioned La Piedra Pintada, or the Painted Rock, a singular 
relic of aboriginal art, situated four miles from town, 
between the head of Montecito Valley and La Canada de 
los Alisos. Whether these hieroglyphs were intended for 
a serious record of events, or were mere idle conceits of 
the barbaric artist, is not known. 

Montecito, three miles from Santa Barbara, is a collec- 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 237 

tion of superb homes, thought by many to outrival even 
Pasadena in beauty. 

A favorite drive is westward to the Hollister and 
Cooper ranches, enormous cultivated tracts devoted to 
multifarious fruits and ornamental vegetation. 

From twenty to thirty miles off the coast, southward 
from Santa Barbara, are four islands. Anacapa, the most 
easterly, is waterless. Formerly this was a favorite resort 
for sea-otters, and is still a sunning-place for numerous 
sea-lions. It has a peak over 900 feet above the sea. 

Santa Cruz is the largest of the group, being twenty- 
one miles long and about four miles in average width. 
It reaches a height of 1,700 feet. Wood and water are 
plentiful on parts of this island. 

Santa Rosa is fifteen miles long by ten miles broad. It 
attains an elevation of over 1,100 feet, and has numerous 
springs. 

San Miguel, the most western of the group, is 7^ miles 
long and 2^ miles wide. This is the island on which the 
dead body of Cabrillo, the Spanish navigator, is supposed 
to have been buried, in January, 1543. 

The chief value of these islands is for grazing, many 
thousands of sheep finding subsistence there, and contrib- 
uting very substantially to the annual export of wool from 
California. They abound in picturesque localities, and 
are rich in archaeological relics. No special facilities have 
been provided to enable the tourist to visit them, but once 
or twice a week fishing-boats leave Santa Barbara to fish 
in the waters among the Channel Islands, and passage 
can be secured on them for a reasonable consideration. 

Los Angeles to San Francisco. — As far as Saugus 
the route is the same as that to Santa Barbara (see p. 234). 
At Saugus the railroad makes a sharp angle and runs a 



238 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

little north of east between the San Gabriel Range and the 
Sierra Peluna, and then turns northward to Mojave. The 
greater part of the region traversed is arid, and in the 
neighborhood of Mojave distinctly desert. Here the water- 
mirage is frequently seen, a perfect illusion of a placid 
lake that would be bitter mockery to a caravan athirst. 

Intermediate Stations: Tropico, West Glendale, Sep- 
ulveda, Burbank, Tejunga, Pacoima, Fernando, Tunnel, 
Newhall, Saugus, Lang, Ravenna, Acton, Vincent, Harold, 
Palmdale, Lancaster, Rosamond. 

Mojave. — Los Angeles, loo miles; Chicago, 2,195 miles; St. 
Louis, 2,055 miles; San Francisco, 382 miles. Dining station. 

From this point the route is identical with that followed 
by the traveler to San Francisco, who was temporarily 
abandoned on page 201. The direction is generally north- 
westward for about eighty miles, after which it sweeps 
farther toward the north. The desert is soon left behind. 

Intermediate Station: Cameron. 

Teliachapi.— Chicago, 2,215 miles; St. Louis, 2,075 miles; Los 
Angeles, 120 miles; San Francisco, 362 miles. Altitude, 4,025 feet. 
Population, 255. 

The descent of the pass of the Tehachapi Mountain is 
full of beauty, and was accomplished for the Southern 
Pacific Railroad with no little ingenuity. 

The Loop. — Ten miles beyond Tehachapi. Altitude, 
3,050 feet. Here a complete loop is made in the railroad. 
The length of the loop is 3,795 feet; the altitude at the 
crossing over the tunnel, 3,034 feet; and the altitude of the 
tunnel, 2,956 feet, a local advantage of seventy-eight feet in 
elevation being thus gained. The grade is heavy and con- 
tinues for many miles — through Keene, 2,705 feet; Beal- 
ville, 1,793 feet; Caliente, 1,290 feet; Pampa, 672 feet; 
Wade, 567 feet, and then we have fairly entered the San 
Joaquin Valley. 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



239 



Bakersfield. — Chicago, 2,263 miles; St. Louis, 2,123 miles; Los 
Angeles, 168 miles; San Francisco, 314 miles. Altitude, 415 feet. 
Population, 2,626. Dining station. 

County-seat of Kern County, on the Kern River, which 
supplies the greater part of the water used on the exten- 
sive irrigated lands of this county, 650 miles of ditches 
being fed by it. This region was desert, too, until water 




TEHACHAPI PASS. 



was supplied, and now it is one of the most productive 
portions of the valley. Fields of alfalfa and grain, and 
vineyards and orchards abound where a short time ago 
only a few tenacious shrubs relieved the monotony of the 
plain. 

The county contains an artesian belt, with many flow- 
ing wells, likewise used for irrigating purposes. Salt, lime, 
petroleum, and asphaltum are among the natural products 
of Kern County, and its mines have yielded a total value of 



240 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST, 

nearly one and a half millions. Apples, walnuts, almonds, 
apricots, peaches, figs, grapes, sugar-cane, tobacco, cotton, 
hops, and the cereals are successfully grown. 

Intermediate Stations: Glenburn, Lerdo, Kimber- 
lena. 

Poso. — Twenty miles beyond Bakersfield. Junction with a side 
line through Portersville to the main line again at Fresno. Altitude, 
414 feet. 

Intermediate Stations: Delano, Alila, Pixley, Tipton, 
Tokay. 

Tulare. — Chicago, 2,326 miles; St. Louis, 2.186 miles; Los 
Angeles, 231 miles; San Francisco, 251 miles. Altitude, 282 feet. 
Population, 2,697. 

Junction with branch line to Visalia. Tulare Lake, a 
few miles distant on the west, is a large body of water, 
surrounded by marshes, and covering several townships. 

Intermediate Station: Tagus. 

Goshen Junction.— Ten miles beyond Tulare. Altitude, 286 
feet. 

Junction with side line to Visalia on the east, and on 
the west with line through Hanford, thence northwest- 
ward to Tracy. 

Visalia is the county-seat of Tulare County, with a 
population of 2,885. Mount Whitney, the highest point 
in the United States outside of Alaska, stands upon the 
eastern border of this county, and within its limits, in the 
Sierras, the Kern, King's, Kaweah, Tule, and White rivers 
take rise. There are 800,000 acres contained within six 
irrigation districts in this county, there being more than 
500 miles of main canals, besides a large mileage of lateral 
ditches. Here, also, is an artesian belt, from whose wells an 
almost incredible amount of water steadily flows. One well 
alone is said to give 35,000,000 gallons per day. Grain and 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



Ul 




16 



242 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

stock raising- have been the chief industries in the past, 
but orchards and vineyards have recently found favor, 
and large areas have been planted with trees and vines. 
The county contains a single raisin vineyard of 960 acres, 
and there are large orchards of the deciduous fruits. 

Intermediate Stations: Cross Creek, Traver, Kings- 
burg, Selma, Fowler, Malaga. 

Fresno. — Chicago, 2,370 miles; St. Louis, 2,230 miles; Los 
Angeles, 275 miles; San Francisco, 207 miles. Altitude, 293 feet. 
Population, 10,818. Dining station. 

Junction with side line from Poso and with new line to 
Tracy, west of the main line. 

County-seat of Fresno County, a modern metropolitan 
city, and center of the wool, raisin, wine, and fruit trade 
industries of the San Joaquin Valley. The farm-lands of 
this county are irrigated by the San Joaquin and King's 
rivers. Here, also, deciduous fruits, and cotton, tobacco, 
etc., are profitably cultivated, but the soil and climate are 
particularly adapted to the culture and preparation of the 
raisin-grape. At least half the raisin crop of the State is 
produced in this county, the yield in 1891 being 1,200,000 
boxes. There is one vineyard of 600 acres. Two and 
sometimes three crops of raisin-grapes are gathered in 
the year. 

The manufacture of lumber is also an important indus- 
try in Fresno County, the mountains being covered with a 
dense growth of cedar, redwood, and pine. The precious 
metals, also, have been produced in considerable quantity. 

Fresno city is well worth a leisurely visit. 

FRESNO TO TRACY VIA BERENDA AND LATHROP. 

Intermediate Stations: Muscatel, Herndon, Irrigosa, 
Borden. 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



243 




"iHOf , 



iVcc 



THE THREE BROTHERS, VOSEMITE. 



244 N£W GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

Madera. — Twenty-two miles beyond Fresno. Population, 950. 

Altitude, 278 feet. 

The location of the John Brown colony. 

Berenda. — Chicago, 2,399 miles; St. Louis, 2,259 miles; Los 
Angeles, 304 miles; San Francisco, 178 miles. Altitude, 256 feet. 

Junction with branch line to Raymond on the east, 
where connection is made by stage for the Yosemite 
Valley and the Mariposa Big Trees. 

The Yosemite and the Mariposa Grove. — This 
remarkable valley of the Sierras lies in Mariposa County, 
at an elevation of 4,060 feet, 4,000 feet below the crests of 
the inclosing mountains. The valley proper is seven 
miles long, and its greatest width is 2^ miles, although 
it is for the most part from one-half to three-quarters of a 
mile wide. The Merced River, a tributary of the San 
Joaquin, flows through its gorges and between banks 
decked with flowers or shaded with cedars, silver pines, 
and oaks. The walls of the Yosemite are of granite, and 
stupendous in magnificence. On the northern side stands 
El Capitan, a mass of bare granite 3,300 feet high; the 
Three Brothers, Yosemite Point, the Royal Arches, 
Washington Tower, and the North Dome. On the south- 
ern side are Inspiration Point, Cathedral Rocks, Cathe- 
dral Spires, Sentinel Rock and Dome, Glacier Point, and 
the wall of the Tululawiak Canon. At the eastern end 
are Grizzly Peak and Half (or South) Dome, the latter 
rising to a height of over 4,000 feet above its base and 
crowned with a summit whose area is ten acres. There 
are nine principal waterfalls: Bridal Veil, a slender, sway- 
ing column of spray 900 feet high; Ribbon, Sentinel, 
Yosemite, which falls 2,600 feet in three sections, one of 
which is a vertical plunge of 1,500 feet; Royal Arch, 
Tululawiak, Vernal, Nevada, and Cascade. 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



245 




THE BIG TREES. 



246 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

Although the area of the entire Yosemite Valley 
proper is very small as compared with the titanic chasm 
of the Grand Canon of the Colorado River, it touches sub- 
limity of beauty. Another valley, the Hetch-Hetchy, is 
included in the Yosemite National Park. This is similar 
in character, but less frequently visited because of the 
difficulties that intervene. 

The word Yosemite is Indian, and signifies Great 
Grizzly Bear. The original Indian name was Ahwahnee. 

The railroad branch from Berenda to Raymond (not to 
be confounded with Raymond near Los Angeles) is 
twenty-one miles in length. Beyond Raymond the dis- 
tance to the Yosemite is about sixty miles, and is made 
by stage in a day and a half; the stop over night being 
made at Wawona. There are good hotel accommodations 
in the valley. On the return the stage leaves Yosemite 
in the morning and reaches Wawona at noon, where the 
remainder of the day is allowed for visiting the Mariposa 
Big Trees. In this grove of giant Sequoias there are 427 
trees, the largest of which is thirty-four feet in diameter, 
the height ranging from 150 to 300 feet. A cut has been 
made through the standing trunk of one of them, large 
enough to permit the passage of the stage-coach with its 
load of passengers. 

Intermediate Stations: Califa, Minturn, Athlone, 
Lingard. 

Merced.^ Twenty-six miles beyond Berenda. Altitude. 171 
feet. Population, 2,000. Junction with side line, on the east of 
main line to Stockton. 

County-seat of Merced County. The soil and climate 
are adapted to fruits and cereals. 

Intermediate Stations: Atwater, Arena, Livings- 
ton, Turlock, Ceres. 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST, 247 

Modesto. — Thirty-eight miles beyond Merced. Population, 
2,402. Altitude, 91 feet. 

County-seat of Stanislaus County. All the principal 
California fruits, nuts, vegetables, and grains are raised in 
this locality. 

Intermediate Stations: Salida, Ripon. 

Latlirop. — Chicago, 2,483 miles; St. Louis, 2,343 miles; Los 
Angeles, 388 miles; San Francisco, 94 miles. Altitude, 26 feet. 
Population, 577. Dining station. Junction with line running north- 
ward through Stockton and San Francisco. 

Intermediate Station; Banta. 

Tracy. — Chicago, 2,494 miles; St. Louis, 2,354 miles; Los An- 
geles, 399 miles; San Francisco, S3 miles. Altitude, 64 feet. Junction 
with new line from Fresno via Collis, and with line through Niles to 
San Jose and Oakland. 

FRESNO TO TRACY, VIA COLLIS. 

Collis. — Fifteen miles from Fresno, Altitude, 219 feet. 
Mendota. — Thirty-four miles from Fresno. Altitude, 178 feet. 
Los Baiios. — Sixty-eight miles from Fresno. Altitude, 121 
feet. 

!N"ew'maii. — Eighty-nine miles from Fresno. Altitude, 92 feet. 
Tracy. — One hundred and twenty-six miles from Fresno. 

Tracy to San Francisco, via Port Costa. — Beyond 
Bethany, Byron, and Brentwood, in the vicinity of Antioch, 
twenty-eight miles from Tracy, the road swings westward 
by the side of the confluent San Joaquin and Sacramento 
rivers, through Avon and Martinez, on Suisun Bay, and 
Port Costa and Vallejo Junction, at the head of San Pablo 
Bay; thence by the shore of that bay, and southward 
along the bay of San Francisco to the city of Oakland. 
Most of this interval lies in Contra Costa County, in the 
center of which Mount Diablo rises 3,860 feet directly from 
the level of the sea. From the summit of Mount Diablo 



248 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

a territory as large as that of the entire State of New 
York, embracing thirty cities and villages that include one- 
half the population of California, may be surveyed. 

The principal smelters of the Pacific Coast are located 
at Vallejo Junction. The anchorage of Port Costa is fresh- 
water, and of sufficient depth to accommodate the largest 
ships, as is also the case as far back as Antioch, on the San 
Joaquin. At Port Costa north-bound trains are ferried 
across. At a number of points along this water-front are 
immense docks and warehouses. 

The distance between San Francisco and the most 
important stations along this last stage is as follows: 
Antioch, 55 miles; Martinez, 36 miles; Port Costa, 32 
miles; Vallejo Junction, 29 miles. 

Oakland. — Chicago, 2,573 miles; St. Louis, 2,433 miles; Los 
Angeles, 478 miles; San Francisco, 4 miles. Population, 48,682. 
Altitude (pier), 14 feet. 

The first stopping of the train is at Sixteenth vStreet, 
and the second and last is at Oakland Pier, two miles 
beyond, where passengers leave the train and take the 
ferry across the bay to San Francisco. 

Oakland is the county-seat of Alameda County. It con- 
tains, in addition to a large number of public city schools, 
many seminaries, academies, etc., a medical college, and 
Chabot Observatory. 

It stands upon a peninsula that extends into the bay 
from the Contra Costra Range, from whose elevation the 
bay, the Golden Gate, and the cities of Oakland and San 
Francisco are seen as in a panorama. Oakland is an 
exceedingly attractive city, besides being a great manu- 
facturing and commercial center. 

Alameda, a city of 11,165 inhabitants, neighbors it upon 
the south, with separate ferries to San Francisco, 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 249 

Directly west of Oakland, against the northern shores 
of San Francisco, lies the Golden Gate, ahead and a little 
to the right of the course of the ferryboat. It is the only 
tideway between the bay and the ocean, a passage 3^ 
miles long and one mile wide, separating two embracing 
peninsulas. 

San Francisco.— Chicago, 2,577 miles; St. Louis, 2,437 miles; 
Los Angeles, 482 miles. Population, 298,997. Altitude, from sea- 
level to 938 feet above. Altitude at Market Street Ferry, 12 feet. 

Like most cities of the upper Pacific Coast, San Fran- 
cisco is built upon many hills, some of which, like Mission 
Peaks and Russian, Telegraph, Rincon, and Reservoir 
hills, are abrupt and lofty. It occupies an entire county, 
which bears the same name, covering the northern 
extremity of the southernmost of the two peninsulas 
which separate San Francisco Bay from the Pacific 
Ocean. This bay is sixty-five miles long, and has an 
average width of eight miles. Upon the ocean front, at 
Point Lobos, a good sand-beach, the Seal Rocks, and the 
surmounting bluff of Sutro Heights form an attractive 
resort. On the Golden Gate frontage, at Fort Point, is 
the Presidio Reservation, a military station with the 
largest garrison on the Pacific Coast. Fort Point is 
furnished with heavy cannon, and commands the nar- 
rowest part of the Golden Gate. Alcatraz Island and 
Angel Island are likewise fortified. 

San Francisco was founded in 1850 as a city, although 
since 1776 there has been a settlement here in conse- 
quence of the erection and maintenance of the Mission 
Dolores. The principal thoroughfare is Market Street, 
which begins at the ferry slips on the bay. The finest 
residences are located principally on California Street and 
Van Ness Avenue. Only of late has San Francisco ven- 



250 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



tured upon the construction of tall and substantial busi- 
ness buildings, because of the supposition that earth- 
quakes would destroy them. For this reason the city is 
less imposing- architecturally than many centers of a 
smaller population in other parts of the country; but the 
immunity enjoyed by the first experiments in many- 




CHINESE RESTAURANT. 

Storied structures of brick and stone has given confidence 
in that direction, and every year many handsome edifices 
arise. The residences, however, are chiefly frame build- 
ings, although many are very costly. 

Oakland, Alameda, Berkeley, San Rafael, Menlo Park, 
etc., are used by many San Francisco business men for 
suburban homes. It is also claimed that a greater num- 
ber of permanent residents live in this city, in hotels and 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 251 

boarding-houses, than is the case in any other city of the 
United States. Of hotels there are more than a hundred, 
and an extraordinary number of family boarding-houses, 
lodging-houses, and restaurants, among which last the 
visitor who enjoys knocking about may learn, by jtidi- 
cious inquiry, of two or three places, externally unpreten- 
tious, which for excellence of food and service can hardly 
be surpassed. 

There are nine public libraries and many large private 
book collections, 114 churches and eighty-nine graded 
public schools. The city hall and the United States Mint 
are the noblest buildings. There are many public parks 
of various size, the largest of which is Golden Gate Park 
— the site of the Midwinter Fair of 1894 — an exquisite 
garden of 1,013 acres reached by a short ride on the 
street-cars. 

The Mission Dolores stands on the corner of Dolores 
and Sixteenth streets. 

San Francisco's Chinatown. — The abode of the Celes- 
tials covers about ten blocks in the heart of the city. 
They number more than 20,000, and follow the vocations 
of laborer, laundryman, and merchant for outside patrons, 
and are engaged in every conceivable industry and trade 
among themselves, dwelling in and on the houses, and 
underground in a labyrinth of dark passages and closet- 
like compartments. The Flowery Kingdom itself can 
hardly be more typically Chinese, for the quarter is 
entirely given up to them. Endowed with a fair ability 
to endure disagreeable odors, and to confront many sights 
that are not congenial to a highly civilized taste, the 
visitor to Chinatown will find much of absorbing interest. 
While the Chinese stores are frequented by day, for the 
purpose of making purchases, the conventional trip is 
made at night, in charge of a guide, who can be secured 



252 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

at short notice on application to the clerk at any of the 
leading hotels. Almost every night in the year tourists 
are thus conducted through Chinatown, and the solitary 
traveler who desires the experience can usually arrange 
to join a party, the cost of employing the guide being 
divided on a per capita basis. About three hours are 
consumed in making the customary round, which is so 
planned as to give the visitor a fair notion of the life of 
this quaint community. Shops of merchants, butchers, 
apothecaries, and artisans, and restaurants, joss-houses, 
theaters, gambling quarters, and opium dens are features 
of the programme. 

The joss-houses, or temples, are very richly furnished 
and contain a number of hideous images of Chinese gods. 
The air is pungent with the fumes of burning joss-sticks and 
sandal-wood, and the worshipful attendants will interro- 
gate Fate on behalf of the inquisitive for a consideration. 

In the restaurants excellent tea and many palatable 
dainties are served. They are very neat and quiet, and 
in some instances the furniture is elaborate and costly. 

In the theater will be found much that is grotesque 
and entertaining, aside from the purport of the play, which 
will be mainly unintelligible to the average Caucasian 
visitor. The stage is very deep, and on it are gathered 
actors, musicians, supernumeraries, and itinerant sight- 
seers. The actors fairly elbow their way to and from the 
clear center of the stage; visitors and stage-hands smoke 
and walk about at will; the orchestra in the rear, made 
up of heavy cymbals or gongs and shrill-stringed instru- 
ments, hammers and squeals to give emotional stress to 
the passages of the play, and the actors deliver their parts 
in a forced artificial voice, half-singing in monotonous 
cadences. Only the most rudimentary suggestion of 
scenery is used, and only men are permitted to imperson- 



New guide to the pacific coast. ^53 

ate, as on the Eng-lisli stage up to a comparatively recent 
date. Youths, beautifully costumed, and made up for the 
part, bear the female roles, and speak in falsetto tones. 
Some of these impersonators are celebrated actors among 
their race, and draw crowded houses, like the famous 
actresses of other nations. The plays are long-drawn out, 
and many of them require several evenings for a complete 
performance, although there are dramas that can be given 
entire between the hours of 5 p. m. and midnight. Many 
current Chinese plays are classics, having held the boards 
for many centuries with undiminished popularity. Of 
the Chinese theater-goers, the men sit in the pit with their 
hats on, and the women in the galleries. There is no 
applause, beyond the tribute of strained silence in the 
tragic passages and laughter in the coinedy portions, 
which, in the case of the female roles, are often rendered 
in a manner so mischievous and sparkling, and so full of 
feminine grace, as to call for a high artistic ability in the 
performance. 

In regard to opium smoking, it should be stated that 
among the better class of Chinese, who are usually 
worthy of respect and confidence, the practice is deprecated 
and avoided, as any degraded habit is frowned upon by 
the refined among other nationalities. There are many 
Chinamen who smoke opium, but there are as many or 
more who do not. The opium pipe is a long-stemmed 
affair, with a thick round head which is nearly flat on top 
and solid except for a small aperture in the center. With 
this and a small lamp, tray, and implements for the manip- 
ulation of the drug at his side, the smoker, curled up on 
a broad bench or bunk, takes a small quantity of prepared 
opium on the end of a needle-like implement and holds it 
in the flame of the lamp, turning it over and over. The 
opium swells and undergoes a process of partial roasting 



254 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

while it is alternately held in the flame and rolled into a 
ball on the top of the pipe. When it has been brought to 
the proper condition it is pressed upon the aperture of the 
pipe, perforated by the needle, and held to the flame 
again while the smoker inhales the fumes through the 
pipe-stem. Two or three puffs exhaust the opium, and 
the process is repeated until the smoker is satisfied or 
stupefied. There are haggard and wasted old men in 
Chinatown who are said to subsist almost wholly upon the 
smoke of opium. 

The Society of Highbinders is a perversion of an 
organization originally instituted in China by a band of 
patriots, and corrupted before its importation into this 
country. Blackmail, illicit traffic, and personal and party 
feuds were pursued under this organization in San Fran- 
cisco until the audacity of its deeds of violence and its 
defiance of law became a scandal, and public opinion 
demanded its suppression. Foremost in the movement 
for its destruction were the women of the Chinese mis- 
sions, whose sympathy was excited for the female slaves 
imported from China by members of the society and 
landed by the aid of corrupt American lawyers who were 
fertile in expedients for evading the law. A descent upon 
the strongholds of the Highbinders was made by the 
police, and many were captured, some of whom were 
executed and others imprisoned for their crimes. The 
society was not absolutely destroyed, but only at long 
intervals during the past two years has any outbreak 
occurred that could be charged to it. 

SOUTHWARD FROM SAN FRANCISCO, THROUGH THE SANTA 

CLARA VALLEY. 

Santa Clara Valley. — Southeastward from San Fran- 
cisco, west of the bay, the Coast Division (Third and Town- 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 255 

send Streets Station) of the Southern Pacific Railroad 
extends, continuing on through the spacious valley of 
Santa Clara, which is hemmed by hills and mountains. 
This lovely valley, which constitutes the horticultural 
region of Santa Clara County, has a larger acreage of 
orchards and vineyards than any other county in the State. 
The largest seed-farms in the world and one-half of all the 
prune trees in the United States are here, and one-half 
the total annual crop of strawberries in the United States 
is raised here. The largest horse-breeding establishment in 
the United States and the largest herds of Jersey cattle 
are also in vSanta Clara County, and its list of superlatives 
further includes the Lick Observatory, with the largest 
telescope in the world, and the Stanford University. 

The visitor to Palo Alto, San Jose, Santa Cruz, and 
Monterey will pass through this valley. 

Palo Alto. — Thirty-three miles from San Francisco. Altitude, 

57 feet. 

Location of the Leland Stanford Junior University and 
of the Stanford stables, which can also be reached from 
Menlo Park, the station one mile above Palo Alto. Public 
carriages are in waiting on arrival of trains. 

The university, a memorial of the only son of the late 
Senator Stanford, is situated in a campus of 8,000 acres, 
which contains the mausoleum of the Stanfords — a small 
Greek temple of marble — and a great variety of trees and 
shrubs. The entire estate w^hich ultimately is to accrue 
comprises 85,000 acres. The architecture of the buildings 
is Romanesque, after the type of the old missions — twelve 
oblong one-story structures of buff sandstone connected 
by a continuous arcade around an immense inner court 
containing three and a quarter acres, paved with asphalt 
and ornamented with beds of tropical flowers. All this is 
to be inclosed in another quadrangle whose buildings 



256 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

will be two stories high; and six smaller quadrangles out- 
side the great quadrangle are included in the plan of 
future extension. The dormitories are taller buildings, 
with elevators, electric lights, hot and cold water, steam 
heat, etc. There are also cottages used by the president 
and the professors for homes, and a noble museum build- 
ing. The scope of the university is broad. Students are 
encouraged to choose their future calling, and their course 
of study is shaped accordingly. It is open to both sexes. 
The Stanford stables are full of entertainment and 
instruction for those who take an interest in race-horses 
and their training. The establishment includes stables, 
paddocks, " kindergartens " in which colts are taught 
from a tender age what is expected of them upon a track, 
and race-courses for the older horses. 

Sail Jose.— Fifty miles from San Francisco. Altitude, 86 feet. 
Population, 18,060. 

Connected with San Francisco by two other railroad 
lines, which run east of the bay. This city, together with 
its immediate neighbor Santa Clara, ships enormous quan- 
tities of green, dried, and canned fruits, berries, wine, 
brandy, and miscellaneous products. It is a wealthy mod- 
ern city, with broad macadamized streets, excellent busi- 
ness blocks, attractive residences, many chtirches and 
schools, half a dozen banks, and first-rate hotels. 

From San Jose a stage makes daily the round trip to 
Lick Observatory, only thirteen miles distant in an air 
line, but twenty-six miles by the road, which overcomes 
the mountain slopes by regular gradients involving 367 
turns. The observatory is situated on the summit of 
Mount Hamilton, whose altitude is 4,443 feet. It was a 
bequest of the late James Lick, a millionaire of San Jose, 
and cost $750,000. The glass of the great telescope. 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 257 

thirty-six inches in diameter, consumed three years' labor 
in making, and cost $55,000. This is the glass through 
which the fifth satellite of Jupiter was discovered by 
Professor Barnard in 1892. On Saturday night in every 
week, between the hours of 7 and 10 o'clock, visitors 
are permitted to gaze through the great Lick telescope, 
and on that night the stage returns to San Jose at a late 
hour for the accommodation of those who desire to avail 
themselves of this privilege. On other days, however, all 
visitors are courteously shown through the observatory, 
and allowed to look through a twelve-inch telescope, 
which is powerful enough to magnify Venus to apparently 
half the size of the moon, and render it visible at bright- 
est midday. 

Monterey. — One hundred and twenty-five miles from San 
Francisco. Altitude (at station), 5 feet. Population, 1,662. 

Named by Viscaino in 1602, in honor of the patron of 
his expedition, Gaspar de Zuniga, Count of Monte Rey. 
Monte means either ^' mountain " or " forest " in the Span- 
ish tongue, but, in the case of Count Zuniga, Monte Rey 
signified " Mountain King," and that, therefore, is the 
proper translation of the name of this old town. In the 
case of the Hotel del Monte, however, the word montc 
means "forest," and del ntonte means "of the forest." 
This noble hotel, whose fame is inseparable from that of 
Monterey, stands among live-oaks and pines of great size 
and age, in a wonderful garden of 126 acres, whose bloom 
is most gorgeous in time of winter — rose, pansy, calla, 
heliotrope, narcissus, tulip, and crocus fraternizing with 
rare flowering plants from regions south of the equator. 
Every provision for enjoyment has been made for guests, 
both indoors and out. There are row-boats on a lake of 
fifteen acres extent within the grounds, tennis courts, cro- 
17 



258 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

quet grounds, swings, mazes, delightful shady walks along 
which benches are scattered, and perfectly-kept macadam- 
ized drives leading to natural attractions of hill, valley, 
and shore. 

The town of Monterey is a mile distant from the hotel, 
at the southern end of the bay. Here, first in California, 
a cross was planted, an altar erected, and a mass cele- 
brated, by Viscaino, in 1602. In 1770 Serra founded here, 
by the sea, the mission San Carlos de Monterey, which in 
the following year was removed to Carmelo Valley, five 
miles back from the coast, and renamed San Carlos de 
Carmelo. The old stone church still stands, the remains 
of Serra buried beneath its sanctuary. Here took place 
the first Indian baptism in California, and the first Euro- 
pean woman to emigrate to these shores arrived at Monte- 
rey in 1783. 

Two miles beyond the tow^n is Pacific Grove. A few 
years ago this was merely an annual camping-ground for 
the Conference of the Methodist Episcopal church. It has 
grown to a pretty town which numbers 5,000 inhabitants 
in the height of the season. Various religious and tem- 
perance organizations hold conventions here from year to 
year. Bathing, sailing, and fishing are to be had. 

Half a mile beyond Pacific Grove is Point Pinos, upon 
which stands an old granite light-house, still in service, 
and beyond that lies Moss Beach. 

From the Hotel del Monte a roadway leads through 
Monterey across the peninsula, and past Pescadero Beach, 
Chinese Cove, Pebble Beach, Cypress Point, Seal Rocks, 
Moss Beach, and through Pacific Grove back to the hotel. 
This is " the seventeen-mile drive," and includes most of 
the points of interest at Monterey. 

Santa Cruz. — One hundred and twenty-one miles from San 
Francisco. Altitude, 18 feet. Population, 5,596. 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 



259 



Reached either by way of the Monterey line (Coast 
Division) as far as Pajaro, thence via the Santa Cruz line, 
or all the way by the Santa Cruz Division, leaving San 
Francisco by the Alameda ferry at the foot of Market 
Street, and from Alameda coasting the eastern shore of 
the bay and passing through San Jose and Pajaro. 

Before the building of the Hotel del Monte at Monte- 
rey, and the Hotel del Coronado at Coronado, Santa Cruz 




BIG TREES NEAR SANTA CRUZ. 



was the most fashionable seaside resort in the State, and 
it is still very popular. It lies opposite Monterey, on the 
north, upon the same bay. Its location and surroundings 
are highly picturesque and full of interest, and the 
climate is only less delightful than at Monterey. There 
is a bathing beach of fine white sand, and there are many 
enjoyable drives; the light-house. Natural Bridge, Laguna 
Falls, Ben Lomond Road, Pebbly Beach, Magnetic Spring, 



360 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

Loma Prieta, and the Big Tree Grove being a few of the 
attractions. This grove of mammoth redwoods [Sequoia 
senipervirens) is one of the sights of California, and not at 
all to be despised by the traveler who has seen the Sequoia 
gigantea, and is very easily visited, being only five miles 
distant by rail from Santa Cruz. It covers twenty acres, 
and numbers scores of trees from ten to twenty feet in 
diameter, the largest being 300 feet high and 21 feet 
through at the base. In 1847 Fremont camped in the 
hollow of one of these redwoods, which bears his name. 

San LiViis Obispo. — Two hundred and forty-six miles from San 
Francisco. Population, 2,995. 

This poetic town lies ten miles beyond the end of the 
Coast Division, connected with the railroad at Santa 
Margarita by stage. 

It can also be reached from Santa Barbara by stage to 
Los Olivos, forty-five miles, and thence via the Pacific 
Coast Railway, sixty-six miles. 



Here this guide-book properly comes to a close. There 
are numerous points of interest in California upon the 
north and east of San Francisco, but their description can 
not be undertaken herein. The reader will find below, 
however, a brief memorandum l(5cating and individual- 
izing half a dozen cities whose names are most familiar. 

Berkeley. — Population, 5,101. A short distance north of Oak- 
land, reached by electric and steam roads, the seat of the University 
of California, and a suburb of San Francisco. 

Stockton. — Ninety-two miles from San Francisco, via Niles 
and Tracy. One hundred and three miles via Port Costa and Tracy. 
Population, 14,424. 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 261 

A manufacturing center, in a prosperous agricultural 
region. 

Sacramento. — Ninety miles from San Francisco, via Port 
Costa and Benicia. One hundred and forty miles via Niles, Tracy, 
and Stockton. Also reached by river steamers from San Francisco. 
Altitude, 30 feet. Population, 26,386. 

The capital of the State. A center of railroads, manu- 
facture, and trade. Situated at the junction of the Ogden 
Route and the Shasta Route of the Southern Pacific Com- 
pany. It is a well-built city, containing many features of 
interest, among which the capitol and the Crocker Art 
Gallery with a very valuable collection of paintings are 
conspicuous. 

Marysville.— One hundred and twenty-five miles from San 
Francisco via Davis and Woodland; 142 miles via Port Costa, Benicia, 
and Sacramento. Altitude, 66 feet. Population, 3,991. 

A wholesale trade center. 

Napa. — Forty-six miles from San Francisco via Vallejo Junc- 
tion. Population, 4,395. 

Location of the Napa Soda Springs. 

Santa Rosa.— Seventy-five miles from San Francisco via Val- 
lejo Junction. Population, 5,220. 

In Sonoma County, which is famous for fruits. Fruit- 
canning and wine-making are the chief industries. 



VOCABULARY OF SPANISH AND INDIAN 

NAMES. 

Note. — Except for the purpose of determining the syllabic accent 
of Spanish words, the reader who may chance to be unfamiliar with 
the Spanish tongue will have little need of a pronouncing dictionary 
if he will take note of the following easily remembered rules govern- 
ing the sound of vowels and the exceptional consonants: 

A never has the sound of a in fate, but is sounded as in father. 
dislike a mfate, and sometimes short, as in met. /is like eein. 
feet, and sometimes short, as in bit. O is nearly as sonorous as in 
the English word bo7ie. (The clipped enunciation of the vowels oa 
in road, coat, etc., which one occasionally hears, is a more exact 
equivalent.) ^'^is never like u in acute, nor quite like <?^ in fioon; 
but like ti in full. Fis sounded like the Spanish /. 

Mexicans do not lisp s and soft c, as do Castilians, but give them 
the harshest sibilance of the letter s. //is not sounded at all, except 
when combined with c (when the two form a distinct consonant, 
which is invariably sounded as in church). G (when soft) and/ are 
sounded almost precisely like ch in the German word Ich. It is 
almost impossible to acquire the exact sound except by imitation. It 
is a guttural, lying somewhere between the letter k and a forcibly 
aspirated h. For all practical purposes the latter will suffice. LI is 
a separate letter of the alphabet, and in Spain has the sound of ///in 
million, but the Spanish-speaking peoples of America universally 
give it only the sound of an initial /, or of long e, as in Cerrillo (a 
little hill), which is pronounced ser-r^-yo. fj {ii with the tilde) is a 
distinct letter and is sounded like Jiy in cafiyon. 

An English phonetic equivalent for the sound of foreign words, 
without the use of special marks, is not always practicable. One 
reason, among others, is that the equivalent offered will frequently 
be found to take on the form of an English word, by whose proper 
pronunciation the reader is liable to be misled. An example in 

(263) 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 263 

point is the Spanish syllable los, whose pronunciation can not be 
communicated on a printed page by letters alone, for the natural 
phonetic equivalent would be spelled lose, and this is a word which 
happens to be pronounced quite unlike that whose sound is sought to 
be conveyed. In the following pages, therefore, where will be 
found a list of the most prominent Spanish names mentioned in the 
present volume as likely to be encountered on the journey, together 
with their pronunciation and their signification, unless they have 
been corrupted beyond identification with the original word, a few 
of the marks commonly used in dictionaries will be availed of to indi- 
cate the sound of vowels, namely, a as '\r\. father, a as m. fate, e as 
infeet, e as in met, 1 as in bite, i as in bit, o as in bo7ie, o as in short, 
ic as \nfull. 

Acequia (A-sa'-ke-a). Irrigating ditch. 

Acequia Madre (A-sa'-ke-a Ma'-dre). Parent (mother), or main 
ditch. 

Acoma [Indian] (A'-c5-ma). A pueblo of the Queres in New 
Mexico. 

Adobe (A-do'-be). Sun-dried brick made of earth, mixed with 
chopped straw. Also a kind of soil whose character corresponds 
with that suitable for making adobe. 

Agua Caliente (A'-wa Cal-yen'-te). Hot water. 

Agua Fria (A'-wa Fre'-ya). Cold water. 

Alameda (A-la-ma'-da). A grove of poplars; a shaded walk. 

Alcatraz (Al-ca-tras'). Pelican. 

Albuquerque (Al-bii-ker'-ke). Family name. Possibly a corruption 
of albaricoque, apricot. 

Algodones (Al-go-dd'-nes). Cottons; cotton lands. 

Aliso (A-le'-s6). Alder-bush. 

Almaden (Al-ma-den'). A place of mineral deposits. 

Amargosa (A-mar-go'-sa). Bitter. 

Anacapa (A-na-ca'-pa). One of the channel islands off Santa 
Barbara. 

Arena (A-ra'-na). Sand. 

Arroyo (Ar-ro'-yo). A wash made by water; an intermittent 
water-channel; less than a caiion. 

Arroyo Seco (Sa'-co). A dry arroyo. 

Azusa (A-sii'-sa). Provocation; annoyance. 

Bano (Ban'-yo). Bath. 

Belen (Ba-len'). The name is associated with a famous siege in 
Spain. 



264 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

Bernal (Ber-nal'). Proper name. 

Bernalillo (Ber-na-le'-yo). Little Bernal. 

Buenaventura (B'wa'-na-ven-tii'-ra). Good luck. 

Buena Vista (B'wa'-na Ves'-ta). Unobstructed view. 

Cabeza de Vaca (Ca-ba'-sa de Va''-ca). Cow's head; a Spanish 
explorer. 

Cabrillo, Juan Rodriguez (Ca-brel'-yo, H 'wan Ro-dre'-ghes). A 
Spanish navigator. 

Cajon (Ca-hon'). Box. 

Cajon Pass. Box pass. 

Calaveras (Ca-la-va'-ras). Skulls. 

Califa (Ca-le'-fa). Caliph. 

Canada (Can-ya'-da). Glen; dale. 

Canada delos Alisos (A-le'-s6s). Alder-glen. 

Canon (Can-yon'), but commonly accented on the first syllable. A 
ravine; a deep fissure. 

Canon de Chelly (Sha). A canon in New Mexico. 

Canon Diablo (De-a'-bl6). Devil Canon. 

Carpinteria(Car-pin-ter-e'-a). Carpenter shop. 

Carrizo (Car-re'-so). A kind of reed grass. 

Casa Blanca (Ca-sa Blan'-ca). White house. 

Casa Grande (Gran'-de). Big house. 

Centinela (Sen-ti-nel'-a). Sentinel. 

Cerrillos (Ser-re'-yos). Small round hills. Diminutive plural of 
cerro. 

Cerro Gordo (Ser-ro Gor'-do). A thick ridg-e. 

Chaves (Cha'-ves). A family nam©. 

Chico(Che'-co). Little. 

Chino (Che'-nd). Chinaman, 

Cholla (Cho'-ya). A variety of cactus. 

Cimarron (Sim-ar-ron'j. Wild; unruly; a mountain sheep. 

Cochiti [Indian] (Co-chi-te''). Name of a pueblo. 

Colorado (C6-l6-ra'-d6). Red; ruddy. 

Contra Costa (Con'-tra-Cos'-ta). Coast opposite another. 

Coronado (Co-r5-na'-d6). Family name; crowned. 

Corral (Cor-rar). Pen; out-of-door inclosure. 

Cosnino (Cos-ne'-no). 

Cubero (Cii-ba'-rd). Cooper. 

Cucamonga (Cii-ca-mon'-ga). 

Culebra (Cii-la'-bra). Snake. 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 265 

De Luz (De Liis'). Of light. 

Del Mar (Del Mar'). Of, or by, the sea. 

Del Norte (X6r'-te). Of the north. 

Dolores (Do-lo'-res). Pains; a woman's name. 

El Capitan (El Ca-pi-tan'), The captain. 

El Dorado (El D5-ra'-d6). The golden; the gilded. 

El Molino (Mo-le'-n5). The mill. 

El Monte (Mon'-te). The forest; the mountain. 

Elota (A-lo'-ta). 

El Paso (Pa'-so). The pass. 

El Rito (Re'-to). The ceremony. 

El Toro (T5'-ro). The bull. 

Encinitas (En-si-ne'-tas). Little oaks. 

Fresno (Fres'-no). Ash tree. 

Gallinas (Ga-ye'nas). Hens; turkeys. 

Gaviota (Gav-yo'-ta). Sea-gull. 

Gila (He'-la). Name of a river. 

Glorieta (Glo-ri-a'-ta) . Summer-house ; bower. 

Goleta (Go-la'-ta). Schooner. 

Hualpai [Indian] (H'wal'-pi). Name of a tribe. 

Indio (Ind'-yo). Indian. 

Isleta (Is-la'-ta). Little island. Diminutive of isla, 

Jacal (Ha-cal'). An Indian hut. 

Jemez (Ha'-mes). Name of a Pueblo tribe. 

Junipero Serra (Hii-ne'-pe-ro Ser'-ra) . Founder of the California 
missions. 

La Canada (La Can-ya'-da). The glen. 

La Costa (Cos'-ta). The coast. 

Ladrillo (La-dre'-yo). Brick. 

Laguna (La-gii'-na). Lake. 

La Jolla (La Ho'-ya). An eroded cliff near San Diego. 

La Joya (La Ho'-ya). The jewel. 

La Junta (La Hiin'-ta). The junction. 

Las Animas (La-sa'-ni-mas). (Pronounced like one word.) The 
souls. 

Las Cruces (Las Crii'-ses). The crosses. 

Las Flores (Las Flo'-res). The flowers. 

Las Vegas (Las Va'-gas). The meadows. 

Lerdo (Ler'-do). Slow. 

Linda (Lin'-da). Pretty. 

Loma (L5'-ma). Slope; rising ground. 



266 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

Los Angeles (pronounced like one word, Lo-san'-he-les, but com- 
monly Lo-san'-ghe-les. The name of this city has locally two or 
three pronunciations, all corrupt). The angels. (Contracted from 
Pueblo de la Rema de los Angeles — Town of the Queen of the 
Angels.) 

Los Baiios (Ban'-yos). The baths. 

Los Gatos (Ga'-tos). The cats. 

Los Nietos (Ne-a'-tos). The grandchildren. 

Luna (Lii'-na). Moon. 

Machado (Ma-cha'-do). Hatchet. 

Madera (Ma-da'-ra). Wood. 

Madron (Ma-dron'), Madrono (Ma-dro'-no). A kind of tree, 

Malpais (properly Mai-pis', but corrupted to Mai'- pi). Bad coun- 
try. Applied to small bowlders of volcanic rock, which are thickly 
scattered over some parts of the West. 

Manitou [Indian] (Man'-i-tii). Great Spirit. 

Manuelito (Man-wel-e'-to). Little Emanuel. Diminutive of 
Manuel. 

Manzanita (Man-sa-ne'-ta). Little apple; a California shrub. 

Marcos de Niza (Mar'-cos de Ne'-sa). Mark of Nice; a vSpanish 
monk and explorer. 

Mariposa (]Ma-ri-p6'-sa). Butterfly. 

Mendocino (Men-do-se'-no). A little liar, 

Merced (Mer-sed'). Mercy, 

Mesa (Ma'-sa). Aflat-topped hill; diminutive w^.y///rt. 

Mesa Encantada (En-can-ta'-da). Haunted hill, 

Mesquit (Mes-kef). A shrub of the acacia family. 

Modesto (M6-des'-t5), Modest. 

Mogollon (Mo-go-yon'), Parasite, 

Mojave (Mo-ha'-veJ, Name of an Indian tribe, 

Montecito (M6n-te-se'-toj, Little mountain, or forest. 

Monterey (Mon-te-ra'). Forest King. 

Moqui (Mo'-ki). Name of a Pueblo tribe. 

Morena (Mo-ra'-na). Brown. 

Nambe (Nam-ba'). Name of an Indian pueblo. 

Navajo (Na'-va-ho). An Indian tribe. (The Spanish word, 
accented on the second syllable, signifies a level piece of ground.) 

Navidad (Na-vi-dad'). Nativity. 

Olla (O'-ya). A round earthen pot. 

Oro Grande (0-r5 Gran '-de). Much gold. 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 267 

Pajaro (Pa'-ha-ro). Bird. 

Pala(Pa'-la). Wooden shovel. 

Palo Alto (Pa'-lo Al'-to). Tall timber. 

Pasadena (Pa-sa-da'-na). Of imputed Indian origin, signifying 
Crown of the Valley; or possibly a corruption of the Spanish Paso de 
Edeii (Pa'-s6-da-den'), Gateway of Eden. 

Patio (Pat' -y 6). Court. 

Pecos (Pa'-cos). Freckles (supposed to be a corruption of pec as). 

Penitentes, Los Hermanos (Los Er-man'-os Pen-i-ten-tes). The 
Penitent Brotherhood. 

Pescadero (Pes-ca-da'-ro). Fishmonger. 

Picacho (Pi-ca''-ch6). Summit. 

Piedra Pintada (Pe-a'-dra Pm-ta'-da). Painted rock. 

Pima (Pe'-ma). Name of an Indian tribe. 

Pinon (Pin-yon') A species of nut-bearing pine. 

Pinos (Pe'-nSs). Pines. 

Placer (Pla-ser'). Sand or gravel deposit in which free gold is 
found. 

Plaza (Pla'-sa). Public square. 

Poso (Po'-so). Rest. 

Presidio (Pre-sid'-yo). Garrison. 

Pueblo (P'webMo). Village; populace. Applied to the sedentary 
tribes of New Mexico and Arizona, and also to their habitations. 

Puerco (P'wer'-c6). Pig; dirty; foul. 

Purisima (Pii-ris'-i-ma). Purest; applied to the Virgin. 

Queres [Indian] (Ca'-res). Name of a Pueblo tribe. 

Raton (Ra-ton'). Mouse. 

Rayado (Ra-ya'-do). Streaked; variegated. 

Redondo (Re-don'-do). Round. 

Rincon (Rin-con'), An inside corner. 

Rio, Rio Vista, Rio Grande, etc. (Re'-6, Ve'-sta, Gran'-de). River, 
river view, big river. 

Rosario (Ro-sa'-re-o). Rosary. 

Rubio (Rub'-yo). Red. 

Saguache [Indian] (Sa-wash'). Name of a mountain range. 

Salida (Sa-le'-da). Departure. 

Salinas (Sa-le'-nas). Saltmines. 

San Andreas (San An-dras'). St. Andrew. 

San Bernardino (Ber-nar-de'-no). St. Bernard. 

San Carlos (Car'-los). St. Charles. 



268 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 

San Diego (De-a'-go). St. James; diminutive Dieguito. 

San Dimas (Di-mas'). St. Demas. 

San Francisco. St. Francis. 

San Gabriel (Ga-bre-el'). St. Gabriel. 

Sangre de Cristo (San'-gre de Cris'-to). Blood of Christ. 

San Jacinto (Ha-sen '-to). St. Jacinth. 

San Joaquin (H'wa-ken'). St. Joachim. 

San Jose (Ho-sa''). St. Joseph. - 

San Juan (H'wan — Not like a in swan). St. John. 

San Juan Bautista (Ba-U-tes'-ta'). St. John Baptist. 

San Juan Capistrano (Ca-pis-tra'-no). Name of a sainted Italian 
monk. 

San Luis Obispo (San Lii'-is O-bis'-po). St. Louis bishop. 

San Luis Rey (Ra). St. Louis king. 

San Mateo (Ma-ta'-6). St. Matthew. 

San Miguel (Mi-ghel'). St. Michael. 

San Pascual (Pas-k'war). Holy Easter. 

San Pedro (Pa'-dro). St. Peter. 

San Tomas (To-mas'). St. Thomas, 

Santa Ana (pronounced like one word, San-tan'-a). St. Ann. 

Santa Anita (pronounced like one word, San-tan-e'-ta). Diminu- 
tive of Santa Ana. 

Santa Catalina (San'-ta Ca-ta-le'-na). St. Catherine. 

Santa Cruz (Criis). Holy Cross. 

Santa Fe (Fa). Holy Faith. 

Santa Monica (Mon'-i-ca). St. Monica. 

Santa Paula (San-ta Pa'-ii-la). St. Paulina. 

Santa Ynez (pronounced like one word, San-ti-nes'). St. Inez. 

Santiago (San-ti-a'-go). St. James; war-cry of the Spaniards. 

Sierra (Se-er'-ra). Saw-tooth; range of mountains. 

Sierra Madre (Ma'-dre). Mother (parent); range. 

Sierra Nevada (Ne-va'-da). Snowy range. 

Soledad (So-le-dad'). Solitude. 

Supai [Indian] (Sii'-pi). Name of a tribe. 

Tahoe [Indian] (Ta'-o). Name of a lake on the Nevada-California 
boundary. 

Tamal (Ta-mal'). An Indian tribe; a Mexican edible compound. 
Plural, tamales. 

Tamalpais (Ta-mal'-pis, bui the final s is not comm.only sounded). 
Tamal country; a mountain near San Francisco. 



NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 269 

Tehachapi [Indian] (Te-ha'-cha-pi). Name of a mountain and 
pass. 

Tehua [Indian] (Ta'-wa). Name of a Pueblo tribe. 

Temecula (Te-mec'-ii-la). Name of a mountain pass. 

Tesuque (Te-sii'-ke). Name of an Indian pueblo. 

Tia Juana (pronounced like one word, Te-h'wa'-na). Aunt Jane. 

Tigua [Indian] (Te'-wa). Name of a Pueblo tribe. 

Tinaja (Ti-na'-ha). A large earthen jar. 

Trinidad (Tri-ni-dad', but commonly accented on the first syllable). 
The Trinity. 

Tropico (Tro'-pi-co). Tropical. 

Tulare (Tii-la'-re). A place of rushes. 

Ute [Indian] (Ut). Name of a tribe. 

Verde (Ver'-de). Green. 

ViscainOr Sebastian (Se-bas'-ti-an Vis-ca'-i-n5), Biscayan; a 
Spanish navigator. 

Yorba (Y6r-ba). A family name. 

Ynez (E-nes'). Inez. 

Yosemite [Indian] (Yo-sem'-i-te). Big grizzly bear. 

Zia (Se'-a). Name of an Indian pueblo. 

Zuni (Siin^yi). Name of a Pueblo tribe. 



INDEX. 



PAGE 

Abbyville 33 

Acoma Pueblo 102 

Acton 238 

Agua Fria Valley 140 

Alameda, N. M 98 

Alameda, Cal 248, 250 

Alameda County, Cal. . 248 

Albuquerque . . . 98 

Alden . 33 

Alessandro 224 

Algodones 98 

Alila 240 

Allantown 114 

Allison 232 

Almond Culture igo 

Alvord 226 

Amboy 198 

Anacapa Island 237 

Anaheim 217 

Ancona 13 

Angell 119 

Antioch _ 247, 248 

Apache Canon 91 

Aplin 213 

Appleton 13 

Apricot Culture 192 

Arcadia 205 

Arch Beach 217 

Arena, Cal 214 

Arena, Cal 246 

Argentine 24 

Argyle 14 



PAGE 

Arizona. 

Historical 108 

Descriptive no 

Industrial 113, 134 

Arizona Climate 136, 145 

Arkansas River 32 

Arlington 226 

Arrowhead 213 

Arrowhead Springs 203 ,213 

Ash Fork 134 

Ash Hill 198 

Asylum 213 

Atherton 15 

Athlone 246 

Atlantic & Pacific Junction.. 100 

Atwater 246 

Aubrey 156 

Avalon 214 

Avon 247 

Ayer 62 

Aztec 114 

Azul 83 

Azusa 205 

Bagdad 198 

Bakersfield 239 

Ballona Junction 213,216 

Bandini 217 

Banta 247 

Barclay 28 

Baring 14 

Barstow 201 

Barstow to San Bernardino.. 202 



(271) 



272 



INDEX. 



PAGE 

Base Line 213 

Beal 196 

Bealville. 238 

Belief ont - 34 

Bellemont I34 

Bell's Canon 138 

Belpre 33 

Bennett 29 

Benton - . . 62 

Bent's Fort 39. 48 

Berkeley 250, 260 

Bernal. 84 

Bernalillo 98 

Berenda 244 

Berry 156 

Bethany 247 

Big Trees. 244, 260 

Billings 114 

Bissell 201 

Blake 198 

Blanchard 84 

Blodgett 12 

Blossburg 79 

Bluewater 105 

Borden 242 

Bosworth 15 

Bottomless Pits 132 

Box Canon 139 

Box Springs 224 

Braddock 29 

Brentwood _ 247 

Bristol 198 

Bucklin 15 

Buena. 222 

Buena Vista 59 

Buffalo Trails 33 

Burbank 238 

Burlingame 28 

Burrton 30 



PAGE 

Byrneville _. 12 

Byron, Cal 247 

Byron, Col 47 

Cacti. III 

Caddoa 47 

Cadiz 198 

Cajon -. .- 203 

Cajon Pass 202 

Caliente 238 

Calif a 246 

California. 

Historical 158 

Descriptive 169 

Climate 171, 231, 235 

Industrial 1 80 

Cama 14 

Camden 15 

Cameron, Cal. 238 

Cameron, 111, 13 

Camulos 234 

Canoncito 92 

Canon de Chelly 107, 116 

Canon Diablo 118 

Capistrano 217 

Carbondale 28 

Carlsbad 223 

Carlton 47 

Carmelo Mission 258 

Carpinteria 235 

Carrizo 114 

Carrollton 15 

Casa Blanca 226 

Cascade Canon 57 

Castle Creek Hot Springs 140 

Caton 13 

Cave of the Winds... 56 

Cedar Grove 29 

Cedar Junction 24 

Centinela .- 213 



INDEX. 



273 



PAGE 

Central Avenue 213 

Ceres _. 246 

Chalcedony Park 114 

Challender 134 

Channel Islands 237 

Chapman 206 

Charleston 36 

Chaves 105 

Cheyenne Canon 51 

Chicago .- 10 

Chicago to Kansas City 9 

Chillicothe 13 

Chinatown, San Francisco 251 

Chino 156 

Chino Valley 135 

Choteau 24 

Chula Vista. 233 

Cimarron, Kan 36 

Cimarron, N. M 82 

Cinder Pit 134 

Claremont 205 

Clarendon 33 

Clements _ 29 

Cliff and Cave Dwellings 130 

Coal City 13 

College Peaks _ _ 59 

Collis 247 

Colmor 83 

Colorado. 

Historical _ 38 

Descriptive 39 

Climate 42 

Industrial 46 

Colorado Resorts 50 

Colorado River 157 

Colorado Springs 50 

Colton 224 

Continental Divide, Colo 60 

Continental Divide, N. M..71, 106 
18 



PAGE 

Contra Costa County, Cal 247 

Coolidge, Kan 38 

Coolidge, N. M 106 

Coronado Beach 230 

Cosnino 119 

Cottonwood 202 

Cottonwood Valley 28 

Courtney 15 

Cowles 232 

Cripple Creek 58 

Crookton 155 

Cross Creek 242 

Crozier 156 

Cubero .. . 102 

Cucamonga 204 

Daggett. 198 

Dahinda. 13 

Dallas 14 

Dana's Point 219 

Danby 198 

Dartmouth 33 

Davenport 134 

Dean Lake 15 

Death Valley 198 

Decorra 14 

Deerfield 38 

Defiance 107 

Delano 240 

Delhi 62 

Del Mar 223 

Del Rosa. 213 

De Luz. 223 

Dennison. 118 

Denver 61 

Desert Plants. . 11 1 

De Soto 24 

Dillon 81 

Dillwyn 33 

Dodge City , 34 



^u 



INDEX. 



PAGE 

Dolores Mission 249,251 

Dorsey 81 

Dover 82 

Doyle 29 

Drake... 157 

Drew 213 

Drummond 12 

Duarte _ 205 

Dumas. 14 

Dundee 33 

Earl 62 

Eastberne 213 

East Highlands 213 

East Riverside 224 

East Riverside to San Jacinto 224 

East Riverside to Temecula. 224 

Edelstein 13 

Edson.. 198 

El Cajon Valley 232 

Ellinor 29 

EUinwood 33 

Elmdale 29 

Elmer 15 

Elota 98 

El Rito 100 

Elsinore _. 224 

El Toro 217 

Emporia 28 

Emporia Junction 28 

Encinitas 223 

Escondido 222 

Escondido Junction 222, 223 

Ethel 15 

Etiwanda 204 

Eudora 24 

Evans _ 29 

Experimental Agricultural 

Station , Kansas 36 

Fair Oaks 207 



PAGE 

Fairview 134 

Fenner ig8 

Fernando _ 238 

Fig Culture 191 

Fisher's Peak.. ._ 63 

Flagstaff 119 

Florence 29 

Floyd 15 

Flying Fish. 216 

Fort Defiance 107 

Fort Leavenworth 19 

Fort Madison 14 

Fort Union 83 

Fort Wingate 106 

Fossils 22 

Foster's... 233 

Fowler 242 

Franconia 157 

Fresno 242 

Fresno County, Cal 242 

Fresno to Tracy, via Berenda 

and Lathrop 242 

Fresno to Tracy, via Collis.. 247 

Fruit Valley 33 

Fullerton 217 

Fulton 84 

Galesburg 13 

Galisteo 96 

Gallup 107 

Garden City 36 

Garden of the Gods 55 

Garfield 33 

Garvanza 209 

Gary 12 

Gibbs 14 

Gila Monster 112 

Gladysta 213 

Glenburn 240 

Glendale 27 



iNDfeJt. 



^^5 



PAGE 

Glendora 205 

Glen Eyrie -- 56 

Glenwood Springs 60 

Glorieta... 91 

Glorieta Pass 69, 91 

Golden Gate 249 

Gorin 14 

Goshen Junction 240 

Granada 47 

Grand Canon of the Colorado 120 

Grand Caverns 56 

Granite 135 

Granite Canon 59 

Grant's . . . _ 105 

Grape Culture 185 

Great Bend 33 

Green Mountain Falls 57 

Grover 27 

Gypsum _. 226 

Hackberry.. 156 

Hagerman Pass 59 

Halstead 30 

Hamburg 33 

Hancock 157 

Hanford 240 

Hardin. 15 

Hardy. _ 115 

Harold.. 238 

Harper 201 

Hart 15 

Hartland 38 

Haslett.. 198 

Hebron 81 

Hemdon 242 

Hesperia 202 

Hetch-Hetchy Valley 246 

Highland 213 

Highland Junction 203 

Highland Park 209 



PAGE 

Hillside 79 

Hilton 47 

Hinckley 201 

Hoehne's 62 

Holbrook 114 

HoUeys... 47 

HoUiday 24 

Homer. - 198 

Homers , 29 

Hot Springs Junction 140 

Howell 36 

Hualapai.. 156 

Hurdland 14 

Hutchinson 31 

Hyde Park... 213 

Ibex 198 

Illinois 10 

Ingalls 36 

Inglewood 213 

Iowa 14 

Iron Springs 62 

Irrigation 75, 77, 141 

Irrigosa 242 

Irvine 217 

Irvington. 203 

Isleta Pueblo. 99 

Java 198 

Jewfish 215 

Joliet... 12 

Kansas. 

Historical 18 

Descriptive 20 

Climate 23 

Industrial 24 

Kansas City 15 

Kaster.. 157 

Keenbrook 203 

Keene 238 

Kendall. 38 



276 



INDEX. 



PAGE 

Kent. 31 

Kenwood . . 14 

Kernan 13 

Kern County, Cal... 239 

Kimberlena 240 

Kingman 156 

Kingsburg 242 

Kinsley 33 

Kinsman 13 

Kirkland Valley 138 

Kite- shaped Track 211 

Klinefelter 198 

Knappa 12 

Knox 13 

Koen -- 47 

Kramer 201 

Kroenig's.. _-. 83 

La Costa 223 

Ladrillo 223 

Laguna, Cal 217 

Laguna Pueblo, N. M loi 

LaJollaPark- 231 

La Junta 47, 62 

Lakeside... 232 

Lake View 26 

Lakin 38 

Lamanda Park .. 206 

Lamar 47 

Lamy 92 

Lancaster 238 

Lang, Cal 238 

Lang, Kan 28 

Lantry ..- 38 

La Plata 15 

Larned 33 

La Rose 13 

Las Animas 47 

Las Flores 222 

Las Vegas 83 



PAGE 

Lathrop 247 

Laura. 13 

Lava Beds 71, 105, 132 

Lavic 198 

Lawrence 25 

Leadville 59 

Lecompton 26 

Leeds .. 13 

Lemon Culture 184 

Lemont 12 

Lerdo 240 

Leucadia 223 

Levy 83 

Lewis . 33 

Lexington Junction.. . . 15 

Lick Observatory 256 

Lincoln Park 209 

Linda Rosa 224 

Linda Vista 223 

Lingard 246 

Livingston 246 

Lockport 12 

LomaAlta 222 

Lomax 14 

Lordsburg 205 

Lorenzo 13 

Los Angeles 209 

Los Angeles Junction 222, 223 

Los Angeles to San Diego. -- 216 
Los Angeles to San Fran- 
cisco 237 

Los Angeles to Santa Bar- 
bara 234 

Los Angeles to Santa Monica, 
Redondo, and Santa Cata- 

lina - 213 

Los Banos 247 

Los Cerrillos 97 

LosNietos 217 



INDEX. 



277 



PAGE 

Lucky Baldwin Ranch 205, 206 

Ludlow 198 

Luna 100 

Lynn 79 

Machado 213 

Macksville 33 

Macuta.. 14 

Madera ._ 244 

Magnolia Avenue .- 225 

Malaga 242 

Manitou 52 

Manitou Park 57 

Mansfield 36 

Manuelito _ 107 

Marceline 15 

Mariposa Grove . .'.. 244 

Martinez 247, 248 

Marysville 261 

Matilija Springs 235 

Maxwell City 81 

Maxwell Grant.. 79 

Mayline 38 

Mazon 13 

McCarty's 105 

McCook 12 

McLellan 134 

Media 14 

Medill-. 14 

Medway 38 

Mellen 196 

Mendon 15 

Mendota 247 

Menlo Park 250 

Mennonites 30 

Mentone 213 

Merced 246 

Merced County, Cal.. 246 

Mesa City 145 

Mesa Encantada 103 



PAGE 

Mesmer _ 213 

Millsdale 12 

Minturn 246 

Mirage .. 238 

Llission 30 

Missions, California. 162 

Missions, New Mexico. 66 

Mississippi River Bridge 14 

Missouri 14 

Missouri River Bridge 15 

]\Iistletoe _ 119 

^Mitchell 105 

Modesto 247 

Modjeska. 217 

Mojave 201,238 

Mojave Caiion 157 

Mojave Desert.. 196 

Mojave Indians 157, 196 

Molino 213 

Monica. 13 

Monrovia ._ 205 

]\[ontecito 235 , 236 

Monterey 257 

Moqui Snake Dance 116 

]\Iorena 223 

INIorgan 209 

Morley 63 

INIorris.. 24 

Morse 47 

Murrieta 224 

Muscatel . 242 

Nadeau Park 213 

Nambe Pueblo 96 

Napa 261 

National City 223, 233 

Navajo Reservation 116 

Navajo Springs 114 

Needles 157,196 

Nelson 156 



278 



INDEX. 



PAGE 

Nemo. 13 

Neosho Valley - 28 

Nettleton 33 

Newberry 198 

New Boston 14 

Newcomb 15 

Newhall 234, 238 

Newman 247 

New Mexico. 

Historical 64 

Descriptive 67 

Climate 71 

Industrial 75. 81 

Newton 29 

Nickerson 33 

Nimrod 15 

Niota - 14 

Nolan 83 

Norborne -- 15 

Nordhoff 235 

Northam 217 

North Cucamonga 204 

North Ontario 204 

North Pomona 205 

Oak Creek Canon 132 

Oakland 248, 250 

Ocean Beach 231 

Oceanside 222 

Oceanside to Escondido 222 

Oceanside to De Luz 223 

Offerle 34 

Ojai Valley.. 235 

Old Camp Date Creek 138 

Oldtown - 223 

Olive 226 

Olive Culture 186 

Oliver _ 15 

Olivewood 207 

Onava _ 83 



PAGE 

Ontario 204 

Orange 217, 226 

Orange Culture 182 

Ormonde 14 

Oro Grande _ 202 

Ortiz 96 

Osage City 28 

Ostrich Farming 192 

OtayCity 233 

Otero 81 

Pachappa. 226 

Pacific Beach 231 

Pacoima 238 

Painted Desert 133 

Palemon.. 15 

Palmdale 238 

Palo Alto 255 

Pampa 238 

Partridge 33 

Pasadena 207 

Pasadena Mountain Railway. 207 

Patterson — 12 

Pauline 28 

Pawnee Rock 33 

Paxton - 30 

Peabody 29 

Peach Springs 156 

Pecos 91 

Pecos River and National 

Park 90 

Pecos Ruin (Mission and Pu- 
eblo) 87 

Penitentes 85, 86 

Perris 224 

Peterton 28 

Phoenix 143 

Pierceville 36 

Pike's Peak.. 53.62 

Pineveta 155 



INDEX. 



379 



PAGE 

Pixley 240 

Plevna 33 

Plymouth 29 

Point Loma 231 

Point of Rocks, Ariz 135 

Point of Rocks, Cal 202 

Point of Rocks, Lower Cal... 233 

Pomona _ 205 

Ponemah _ 14 

Pontoosuc 14 

Port Costa 247, 248 

Poso 240 

Powell 157 

Prairie Dog Towns 22 

Prehistoric Ruins 147 

Prescott 136 

Prescott, Phoenix, and the 

Salt River Valley Region.. 134 

Princeville 13 

Prowers 47 

Prune Culture 186 

Pueblo 50 

Pueblo Indians, 65, 71, 87, 96, 

99, loi. 102, 106, 116. 

Putnam 115 

Querino Canon 114 

Ransom 13 

Raton 79 

Raton Pass.. 63 

Raton Tunnel 64 

Ravenna 238 

Rayado 83 

Raymond, Cal. 209 

Raymond, Cal. 246 

Raymond, Kan. 33 

Reading, 111.. 13 

Reading, Kan 28 

Redlands 213 

Red Mesa 156 



PAGE 

Redondo Beach 214 

Red Rock Canon 60 

Revere 14 

Rhodes 134 

Rialto 204 

Rincon, Cal 226 

Rio de Chelly 107 

Rio Grande del Norte 70 

Rio Puerco 100 

Riordan 134 

Ripon 247 

Rivera 217 

Riverside 224 

Riverview 233 

Robinson 47 

Rochester 204 

Rogers 201 

Romeo 13 

Romero 84 

Rosamond 238 

Rosario 97 

Rothville 15 

Rowe 87 

Rutledge 14 

Sacramento 261 

Saff ordville 29 

Salida 247 

Salt River Valley 140 

Salt Wells 31 

San Antonio Cailon 205 

San Bernardino 203 

San Bernardino to Los An- 
geles - 204 

San Bernardino to San Diego, 

via Short Line 224 

San Buenaventura Mission.. 234 

Sanders 114 

San Diego 223, 227 

San Diego Mission 228 



280 



INDEX. 



PAGE 

SanDimas... -.. 205 

San Domingo Pueblo 97 

Sands -- --- 84 

San Francisco 249 

San Francisco Peaks 127 

San Gabriel Cafion . _ 205 

San Gabriel Mission 207 

San Jacinto 224 

San Joaquin Valley 238 

San Jose, Gal. 256 

Sanjose, N. M 100 

San Juan 219 

San Juan Capistrano Mission 217 

San Luis Obispo 260 

San Marcos 222 

San Mateo Mountains 105 

San Miguel 84 

San Miguel Island _ 237 

San Onofre 222 

San Rafael .. ._ 250 

Santa Ana... 217 

Santa Anita 206 

Santa Barbara -.. 235 

Santa Barbara Mission 236 

Santa Catalina Island 214 

Santa Clara Valley, Northern 

California 254 

Santa Clara Valley, Southern 

California 234 

Santa Cruz... 258 

Santa Cruz Island 237 

Santa Fe 92 

Santa Fe Springs 217 

Santa Fe Trail 19, 63 

Santa Margarita Ranch 223 

Santa Monica 214 

Santa Paula 234 

Santa Rosa 261 

Santa Rosa Island 237 



PAGE 

Santiago Canon _ 217 

Saticoy 234 

Saugus 234, 238 

Scranton 28 

Seligman 155 

Selma 242 

Selwyn 223 

Sepulveda 238 

Seven Castles 60 

Seven Falls . 52 

Sheffield 15 

Sherlock 38 

Sherman 33 

Shoemaker 83 

Siberia 198 

Sibley 15 

Simpson's Rest 63 

Skull Valley 137 

Slauson 213 

Smithshire 14 

Sorrento ^ 223 

South Pasadena 207 

South Riverside 226 

South Santa Monica 213 

Spanish Peaks 62 

Speareville . .- 34 

Spencer 27 

Springer 82 

Stafford 33 

Standard Time . . 34 

Stanislaus County, Cal. 247 

Starkville 63 

Starvation Peak 84 

Sterling 33 

Sterry . 29 

St. John 33 

St. Joseph, Ariz. 115 

Stockton 260 

Streator 13 



INDEX. 



281 



PAGE 

Strong City 29 

Stronghurst 14 

Sulzbacher 84 

Summit, Cal. 202 

Summit, N. M. 105 

Supai -- 134 

Surrey • .- 13 

Sweetwater Dam.. 233 

Sylvia 33 

Syracuse 38 

Tagus 240 

Taos Pueblo 82 

Tecumseh _ 27 

Tedens 12 

Tehachapi _ 238 

Tehachapi Pass 238 

Tejunga. 238 

Temecula 224 

Temecula Canon 224 

Tempe 145 

Tesuque Pueblo 96 

Thatcher 62 

Tia Juana. 233 

Timpas 62 

Tipton, Cal 240 

Tipton, N. M. 83 

Tokay 240 

Toluca - 13 

Topeka.. 27 

Tracy 247 

Tracy to San Francisco, via 

Port Costa 247 

Traver 242 

Trinidad 62 

Tropico 238 

Truxton... 156 

Tulare 240 

Tulare County, Cal 240 

Tunnel 238 



PAGE 

Turlock .- 246 

Turner 24 

Tyrone. 62 

Ute Park.. 57 

Ute Pass... 52, 56, 57 

Vallejo Junction _ 247, 248 

Ventura.. 234 

Verona _ 13 

Victor 202 

Victoria 213 

Vincent 238 

Visalia 240 

Vista . 222 

Volcanic Cones and Lava 

Beds .- 132 

Wade 238 

Wagon Mound 83 

Wakarusa 28 

Waldo. 97 

Wallace 97 

Walnut 119 

Walnut Culture. 190 

Walnut Grove 137 

Walton 29 

Waterman 201 

Watrous 83 

Wawona 246 

Wayne . 15 

Weaver 24 

West Glendale 238 

Whipple Barracks. .. 136 

Wickenburg 139 

Wilburn 13 

Wilder 24 

Wildesin 213 

Wildomar 224 

Williams 134 

Williams Canon 56 

Williamsfield 13 



282 



INDEX. 



PAGE 

Willow Springs 12 

Wingate 106 

Winslow --- 115 

Wiseburn__- .-- 214 

Woodland Park 57 

Wooten --- 63 

Wright - 34 

Wyaconda 14 



PAGE 

Yampai 156 

Yorba _. 226 

Yosemite Valley 244 

Ysidora 223 

Yucca 157 

Yucca Brevifolia 202 

Zenith... 33 

Zuni Pueblo. 106 



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